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Posts posted by Alex
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Got a passenger seat to match.
Still got lots more to install....
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On 14/02/2024 at 13:13, neurotix said:
Hey,
Does anyone have experience using Kailh Pro switches? I am interested in other clicky switches, the Kailh Pro Light Greens are one of the few Kailh clicky switches I haven't tried. I am open to suggestions for other switch manufacturers, I heard something about Glorious Panda switches and also Halos?
Any advice appreciated. Thanks.
I switched from MX Blues to Kailh box jades after trying pretty much every single clicky switch I could readily find.
I think they're the best clicky switch next to the Kailh box Navys, the MX Blues feel flimsy and plastic-y in comparison - and less uniform pressure across a wide range of keys.
I think the wider stem shape does help with that uniform feel to the keycap as well.edit - also in that wide array of switch testing, I really liked the Gateron oil kings or whatever they're called. Never been a huge fan of linear switches but those are neat.
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I feel like you might've not dealt with the 'enterprise-grade' support MS provides. It's... great lol.
AWS/GCP provides a million times better support, but AWS costs an arm and a leg and doesnt have an M365 competitor.M365 licensing is awful for pretty much everyone in the chain, and the CSP program sucks to support and their ever-changing Ts&Cs make life needlessly complex. I just want a competitor so that it isnt like 99.9% of people using MS's product stack so that they'd be forced to not take as many horrible risks with their software releases and support models because they know that people can't really go anywhere else.
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I'd be up for a proper competition from google for a business ecosphere, MS frankly sucks at it and we all know it.
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All of those are just terrible for judging quality.
1) HDR only works on Chrome
2) YouTube demolishes the quality/bit-rate.
What I do to 'wow' people who haven't experienced proper OLED before is use some of these videos:
4K Media | Free Ultra-HD / HDR / HLG / Dolby Vision 4K Video Demos & Samples
4KMEDIA.ORG
Uncompressed 4K demos,4K samples, and 4K trailers, to show off your new ultra-HD (2160p) HDR/HLG/Dolby Vision television or monitor. -
Ew.
Microsoft's entire product lineup has been getting considerably worse since around 3-4 years ago.
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19 hours ago, The Pook said:
stock or deleted, the world may never know
ok so maybe it's a little obvious outside the car but when idle and when driving I can't hear a difference
You can definitely hear it's different, but it is a diesel after all
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4 hours ago, The Pook said:
Delete + Stage 2 ECU + DSG TCU tune = done
went without a resonator and cat and just the stock muffler and kind of regret it. I took a before video of the exhaust before I deleted thinking that I'd get a little diesel burble or a little spooly boi action but it sounds more or less identical.
probably will ditch the muffler eventually
so can we see the before/after anyways?
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Yeah, don't trust Igor...
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I'm good with either to be honest, but voted square.
I'm sure this isn't in your control, but I have noticed the compression is rather bad when uploading an avatar - that's my only annoyance.
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I just don't really want to get into those long shipping delays, ended up getting a Keychron Q6 Pro + Kailh box jade + keychron keycaps because it was not going to take years to get anything.
Also, funny I bought MX Blues as well because I was worried I wouldnt like the Kailh switches... but the MX Blues feel so plastic and inconsistent in comparison.
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11 hours ago, Kaz said:
I love MX blues. My first experience typing was with typewriters, blues audiable click always reminds me of a typewriter.
I tried MX browns, they are alright but without orings the bottom out sound makes them arguably as loud as blues, and the sound isn't rewarding
When my 2nd keyboard died I went back to blues. I'd like to see what holy pandas and topre switches are about, but there's little point in trying them when I already love blues.
Try Kailh box jades - they're like Blues but better in every way.
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18 hours ago, SoloCamo said:
Well, had my brakes looked at by the only mechanic in the area I trust (me and the gf have been going to the same guy near enough two decades). Apparently my rotors, calipers, pads, etc. on all four are perfect. I'm still getting ridiculous brake noise on the front passenger and if I heat them up it makes it much louder. Wondering if this is as simple as the metal expanding and hitting the dust shield.. Waste of $80 on the stop tech pads but I guess it's good to have them in advance.
Got the aluminum oil cap installed... it's the simple things in life sometimes. Doesn't get hot to the touch and it's so much easier to remove. Ask Nissan/Infiniti owners about the crap stock oil cap and the fact that you end up using pliers or a mallet to get it loose...
Windshield washer tank cap also replaced... and again a case of crappy oem design, the plastic used makes something from the dollar store feel like luxury.
Also changed out my AFE "Magnum FLOW Pro DRY S Air Filters" for some Z1 motorsports dry flow replacements and the fitment is much better.
Now I have to actually do the parts that require actual effort... such is the life of the lazy.
Did you install / get the anti-squeal shims/brackets?
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21 hours ago, Supercrumpet said:
Eyy nice seat choice! I interned at the company that manufactures the composite seat shells for the Pole Position, Profi, and a couple motorsports seats as well.
Neat! They fit me 95% well, and given the price I'm not looking for the other 5%. What I find shocking is they are the most comfortable seat I own - even more than my office chair lol. I guess my back/spine is weird. This is for my passenger side so I have a matching pair
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On 15/11/2023 at 11:05, Sir Beregond said:
Well my 130k mile CX-5 has been throwing a check engine light. Based on the P0172 code "System to rich (bank 1)" but the fact that I can't feel anything wrong with it, its running quite normally, guessing a sensor issue. For the hell of it, I threw a bottle of Techron in my last tank of gas, and since then the CEL has turned off and back on periodically. So I may just run another bottle of that and see what happens.
Really, next up is I'll check/clean the MAF sensor. Been kinda lazy about that.
So I meant to reply, but forgot. The MAF is very likely if you have one, MAFs kinda suck in terms of reliability. I'd avoid additives of any kind (except maybe fuel stabilizer if you *have* to use it) because you don't want to have issues like me lol. I don't think it's fuel additive, but something definitely slowly gunked up my entire fuel system so now replacing every, single, piece is a nightmare.
After the MAF - I would pull the plugs to actually check if one bank is running rich or not - as pulling them is most of the effort, replace them (and use a proper tool and torque wrench... you don't want bits of spark plug in places they shouldn't be). After that it might be a precat going if you have an O2 sensor per precat? If you have only a single O2 (ie; no primary/secondary) then it's unlikely.... after that... how does your oil look?
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21 hours ago, SoloCamo said:
Be careful with Techron. In the only two cars I've used it in it destroyed my catalytic converters. I was agressive with it on my old '13 Hyundai Accent with a direct injection motor and the cats broke up and clogged. Used it on my G37 and not even a week later the cats broke up, thankfully didn't clog but they are broken up and rattle now. Perhaps complete coincidence and bad luck but I've heard similar stories from others.
Side note anyone have experience with HAWK HPS pads? They went out of stock before I could order them and ended up with Stoptech Sport pads and from what I can find they are better but dust a hell of a lot more. I'm ok with that though as long as the stopping power is worth it. Don't even track it but the idiots around here are making braking my #1 priority.
I have the HP+ pads. They don't really dust at all - my rotors do though lol. The pads do require a bit of warm-up and that can surprise you if you aren't aware about it in low temp conditions.
edit - actually not sure if my rotors are dusting or the pads. I assume the rotors because they're really old and need replacing - but could be the pads too. Either way, I dont think you can go wrong with stoptech, hawk, project mu, or whatnot at this pricepoint. For what it's worth - stoptech got sold to a Chinese company rather recently and is moving their production to China - so expect a drop in quality. It's enough to make me avoid their BBK and I'm going to go with Wilwood or AP Racing instead.
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4 hours ago, Andrew said:
Why not go for the Spoon radiator cap if you're spending that much on one?
I just want the Koyo one with the Koyo rad, I know it's all the same but I just want as little issues as possible.
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11 minutes ago, Andrew said:
oofies.
How many miles (km?) does it have?
106k km. It's not an issue (yet) but it's near to being one, I think it's not really the KM but rather the age of the components that are showing.
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Need to replace my fuel filter, fuel pump, injectors, wiring to all of them as well as radiator.... good thing it's been put away for the winter
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1 hour ago, J7SC_Orion said:
That's even crazier than some of the insurance snags I see here
Yeah insurance is turning into more of a scam world-wide. What's funny is it's usually better in third world countries where it's often needed more.
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Metro Exodus has been probably one of my favourite implementations of Path/Ray Tracing so far.
Spoiler
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Show Your Car and Car Discussion Thread
in Chit Chat General
Posted · Edited by Alex
Honestly - not that much. Seat+rail is like 12-15kg total. The stock seat+rail is ~16-17kg. These were very difficult to install, as is expected with near zero space around them. I couldn't torque it, so just did guduntite.
These are more comfortable, look nicer, easier to clean+maintain, and most importantly actually hold you in. Wish it didn't have 'RECARO' in big letters, but of all the name brand bucket seats at least their name/logo is all right.
Yes, thanks. My exhaust actually just arrived, so I need to go pick it up.
I'll do exhaust -> spoon subframe and trans braces -> koyo rad. Replacing the oil somewhere in between there.