Sgt_Swanny

That's a difficult one to answer as 2 come to mind. AC Origins broke the normal formular of game engine and made in to something awesome. The storey was great at explaining the origin of the Assassins and Templars. The other is Black Flag the game killed the lore/modern day storyline, but it pirates and navel combat which was awesome. A notable mention would be Valhalla, however the game is long.

I did got it last Thursday. :)

In, Sgt-Swanny

Yep yep I am here! ICUE...... Yeah I had problems with ICUE crashing with Win10 and 11. I had commander fan hub and had to use ICUE to tweak them. It worked perfectly then my fans would ram up to 100% power and that's how I knew it had crash. Also had an issues with RGB with the pattern would freeze too. To get it working I would had to kill the ICUE processes (quite a few of them if I remember correctly) I got sick of doing this and contacted Corsair, they went the standard BS of is windows update to the latest version BLAH BLAH. Something wrong with your rig blah blah.... Got the impressing they didn't care. Went on a few forums to see if anyone had fix the problem. They hadn't. Moral of the story: I don't use it anymore or any of there products except a headset and a CPU water block. Replaced my keyboard with a Logitech G910 Keyboard and replaced my fans with Antec ones. Also swore I will never use ICUE again. You cant really go wrong with Logitech if I'm honest. Hope this helps

So after a long wait the Aquacompter Leak Shield arrived yesterday! Having a few issues with it which is causing a few headaches. One is the fill level is reading it at 44% when it clearly not. I'm assuming fill level is in fact the water level. It's worth noting that the picture was taking while there was no vacuum as the water level rises when the vacuum is engage. I'm also having a issues when the PC is tuned off. Everything is turn off including the pump the only thing which stays on is the leak shield. I get that the pump adds pressure, but when the system is turn off and alarm is triggered detecting a leak due to a pressure drop. I also have a small air leak going into the loop at high mbar. Which is under understandable when a system has negative pressure. As far as I know air leaks happen in all systems and is worth to strip my PC down to re tighten everything. Before installing the leak shield I checked for leaks (water and air) and to my knowledge there wasn't any. Any advice would be grateful. EDIT: Manage to fix the warning messages when Leak Shield is in standby mode by reducing the pump output from 3430 RMP to 2079RMP. The Pump adds positive to pressure, when the pump is turn off that positive pressure drops resulting in the negative to rise. Causing a "false leak" .

@Fluxmaven & @Sir Beregond Thanks for confirming, will definitely give it a shot now,

This might be a stupid question, but you don't know if you don't ask. Just out of curiosity. Is fitting an additional drain tap on the GPU's water block a bad thing? The rule of thumbs is fitting a drain tap to lowest point in a loop, this normally being the reservoir. The GPU block (in most cases) will be the second lowest point. Fitting tap there should help with clearing coolant from that side of the loop. Just want to know if my thinking is chaotically stupid or there is a reason why you shouldn't do it.

Yep here is mine. @ENTERPRISE forced me to do it :). EDIT: Will OC later. EDIT: Before and after Overclocking

I managed to sort the issue out, the replacement CMOS battery had the positive and negative wire the other wire round with a bit of tinkering I reversed them, no issues since. Thanks guys for your advice.

So I have a custom laptop from PC Specialist and haven't really used it for a year since switching to a desktop. I got a CMOS message saying: "The CMOS battery is bad or was recently replaced. (If you continue is see the message, consult the system user's guide for more information.)" Press enter another message appears on screen: "A first boot or NVRAM reset condition has been detected. (If you continue is see the message, consult the system user's guide for more information.) Press enter again and it's followed by a 3rd message: "The CMOS defaults were loaded. (If you continue is see the message, consult the system user's guide for more information.)" So I did the usual things, remove the CMOS battery for 5 to 10 minutes, power off the system remove the CMOS battery power on the system then plug the CMOS battery back in. Then remove the ram power on the system than reinstall the ram and power on the system. Nothing gets rid of these messages. But every time I boot it on I get these messages. I have also checked the systems user guide which has nothing in it about the CMOS apart from where it is located on the motherboard. The laptop is a Clevo P775TM1 i7 8700k, GTX 1080m with 32gb Ram. Any ideas if I'm missing something. EDIT: Also if it help here is a link to the User & Service Manuel; Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online. 1DRV.MS Folder

A lot of work, just to play Warzone

@ENTERPRISE Just purchased the Lian-Li PC-O11 Dynamic. Should be here tomorrow. @UltraMega & @J7SC_OrionCorsair do a replacment panel for only £19.99 plus £5.00 shipping which would have been awesome if they had any stock. I also want to get a case ASAP as i have a toddler who likes to touch things he shouldn't and also I wanted a new case regardless. Just tell the my partner I said that. She'll be piss.

So was away for a week and moved my setup out of sight just incase if someone wanted to steal it. Stored it the washroom/bathroom. Once back home wanted moved my setup back to my desk. took the side panel off to make it lighter. The whole panel became a million smaller panels. I didn't knock it, I think it was little colded. The case is a Corsair 5000x, which came to market last year so thought I will be able to order a spare one. Corsair has none in stock, So new case for me right before the Christmas Hoildays!

@ENTERPRISEBetter hurry up lol

I can confirm its worked. Did a benchmark before and after updating.

Hey all, Sorry I haven't really been on here. Been busy with moving and some issues life threw at me, you know how it all is. Now I have PC issues I'm hoping someone can help me with. So I decide to clean my water loop, change the pipes and refill with some new coolant, you know yearly water loop maintenance. I also moved the drain tap to the "viewing" side of the case. Just so it's easy to get to when maintaining, It used to be at the other side hidden however to drain the system you have to open both sides of the case. So I've moved the tape on the pump. However I cannot get to point down securely where it's currently fitted. So after using the drain tap I would have to move it to the left to tighten the fitting. No matter how I screw the fitting on i cannot get to point down. The fittings, Taps and T-splitter are all Barrows. I hope I have explained this where you can understand the issue and hoping you can suggest other fitting which work better or another way to fit tap. Cheers Guys.

@damric I've sent you a PM

You beaten me to it ?

Only fans, Asking for a friend??

Welcome aboard

IN Sgt-Swanny Also would like to donate £25 via Paypal as a prize. Won a prize 3 times now. Should really give something back :).

I had a look at rainmaker and way out my depth. There is a lot of script wrinting which I dont have the time to do and wont risk spending all that time writing for it not to work. I also been following a thread on the AIDA forums: https://forums.aida64.com/topic/6581-pc-stopped-when-i-play-games-with-aida64-adrenalin-2020-2012x-issue/page/2/ it's a know issue and apprently AMD and AIDA are working on it, however I don't know how true this is. Thanks I appreciate it, but I don't think it's a MW Warzone issue. But what non-common recomend settings would you recomend, Always up for improving preformance.