Snakecharmed

Once smooth brains in positions of power normalized shoot-the-messenger discourse for everyone on social media, it was over. It's all damage control from here on out and why I prefer smaller forums over larger ones.

Sad but true. I only got into stocks in 2017. Crypto never really entered my consciousness until later, and even then, I never took it that seriously. My peak balance was $110, and my initial deposit was something like $20 into BTC just to use as a wallet. I can't be upset though. I got in really late and all my tech stocks fared about the same or better over the same time period through the present day without as much volatility.

I remember when AMD was $6 a share. By the time I found some investing guts, people were saying AMD had peaked back when it reached the 30s, so I decided to go with NVDA instead. I did hold AMD briefly for a short term, but I didn't know what I was doing with it back then. On the other hand, I've had NVDA on two separate occasions but I most recently bought back into it for the long haul in 2020. My cost basis on NVDA is $73.05. It closed at $594.91 today for an unrealized gain of 714.4%. My problem, if you can call it that, is that it's 22.7% of my brokerage portfolio now. I'd be stupid to take money out of there, so it's more challenging to backfill other stocks to balance out the portfolio better. I'm already too deeply invested in semiconductor stocks and ETFs (33.8%) to increase my holdings in this sector. Nonetheless, I still refuse to buy an RTX 40 series card.

That's not right. QD-OLED is worse than WOLED for burn-in. That's why people with LG screens haven't had any issues. Longevity Burn-In Investigative Paths After 3 Months: QD-OLED vs. WOLED, LG vs. Sony, And More - RTINGS.com WWW.RTINGS.COM Our accelerated longevity test has been running for over three months, and we've already encountered some very interesting results. We've...

Good food photography is clearly underrated. Can't knock your friends and family for it anymore unless their side dishes also appear upside down.

I started but never finished Portal Stories: Mel. This looks interesting. I can handle an uptick in difficulty from Portal 2, but Mel made me feel stupid.

Likewise with the Canadian market! I admit I don't know much about ARMs because I never shopped them before, so I'm probably wrong about the most popular ones. In addition to 5/1 and 5/5, I know there are other terms like 3/1 and also some less common ones like [5|7|10]/6 as well. The interest rates seem comparable to the Canadian 5-year, and the amortization on ARMs are typically 30 years. A US fixed rate mortgage typically amortizes at the end of the advertised term, so I was slightly confused when first reading that five years is the most typical "long" fixed rate mortgage in Canada because I figured there was no way that could also be the amortization period. Anyway, some other thoughts on the GPU-flipping subtopic: I've come to realize I don't have a need for a spare GPU to put in another rig, which is why I try to sell off the old one as soon as I get a new one. If I ever have a dead GPU, I can run iGPU while I shop for a new one. I've mentioned in another thread before that I used to dabble with eGPU setups for my laptop, but that ultimately never went anywhere. If I were to ever build a second concurrent rig rather than use a laptop or mini PC, it would be for an HTPC, which would still be small form factor and not have the space or a beefy enough PSU to run a full-sized card that used to be in my desktop. I've taken to the mentality of any compute-oriented electronics I'm not actively using are a depreciating asset, so get rid of them as soon as conveniently possible. The only time that wasn't true was the convergence of the pandemic/supply chain shortages/second mining boom.

Well, I just learned something new about Canadian mortgages. You have a variety of options with mortgages in the US, but the most popular ones are 30-year fixed rate, 15-year fixed, 5/1 adjustable rate (ARM), and 5/5 adjustable, which appears to be similar to the 5-year fixed rate in Canada but it auto-adjusts the rate every five years so you're not doing any shopping around after the five years are up. Smart money treats ARMs as the option for people who move often rather than a lower upfront interest rate option. You can always refinance your mortgage to get a more favorable current market rate as long as the math works out for you. After 2021 though, the math won't work for a vast majority of people for a very long time. I refinanced twice in 2021 to get a 2.375% 20-year fixed rate, which basically ensured that I'm not moving anywhere else because that type of deal will probably never happen again and I'm happy with everything else about my living situation, the house's attributes, location, etc. I didn't need to do a second refinance in 2021 (the first one was 3.25% for 20), but with the way things were going that year in the midst of the pandemic, I had a strong feeling it was going to be a massive hedge against everything that might happen in the future. Now I can kind of sit back and ignore the chaos, although I never got the feeling of an impending doomsday resulting from mortgage terms expiring like in Canada because of the variety of mortgage options here. I always sell off my old one. I had a bit of a hiccup with reselling the 1080 Ti that I used for maybe half a year or so before the 3060 Ti because the first buyer was a weasel who invented a BS reason to return it and forced me to have to retest it, which I seriously dragged my feet on doing. I did benefit a little from the pandemic/mining pricing though because I turned a small profit from selling the 980 Ti I had prior to the 1080 Ti, but I also seriously overpaid for the 3060 Ti as well. The 3060 Ti was the first time in a long time that I bought a brand new GPU, and that was mainly out of necessity due to getting my current second monitor (TV) and realizing that I needed a GPU that supported HDMI 2.1 to run 4K 120 Hz. Otherwise, I'd rather stay a generation behind so someone else can pay the premium of Nvidia's nonsense and AMD's complacency, and I got back on that cycle with the 3080 Ti when the 40 series came out. To be honest though, I don't play games as often as I imagine myself doing, so the entire stretch of going from 980 Ti -> 1080 Ti -> 3060 Ti -> 3080 Ti is a historical anomaly for me. This time around, the problem is that the 40 series is so underwhelming that if I make any upgrade in the near future, the only GPU that might make any sense to me would be the 7900 XTX after the 8000 series comes out. I'll most likely be sitting it out for a bit since I don't foresee much gaming time over the next couple of years.

If they want to be seen as the good guy, they can start by unsuckifying YouTube. After Netscape Navigator Gold, I've always kind of favored non-mainstream browsers because IE was pretty much always garbage. I use Waterfox primarily with Vivaldi as my primary Chromium-based alternate and Brave as my secondary alternate. I've never installed Chrome on any of my home rigs. By the time everyone jumped ship from Firefox, Chrome was already becoming bloated and Firefox started slimming down despite worsening their UI in the process.

You need to deploy spike strips in your yard...because of bears.

Wow, so that's what not getting gouged on Internet looks like. Not to say Spectrum is great, but I'd gladly just sit on the 350 for $20. Can't argue with 100 for free either. I'm paying $65 for a theoretical 1000/20 coming from 400/10 for $55. I can't downgrade plans and save any money unless I get the bottom-of-the-barrel plan below 100 Mbps which still works out to about $40. Comcast is supposed to upgrade the upload speeds from 20 Mbps to 100 for the gigabit plan I'm on now. It's already been rolled out in some areas. At the moment though, I'm getting a comically disproportionate 947/24 on Speedtest. Any competition would be welcome, but AT&T and Google are basically just ignoring us at this point. I can't remotely get excited about 20 Gbps when Google has such a solid track record of abandonware.

It feels like this means very little to most residential customers. Most aren't going to have the equipment to put that bandwidth to use. In practical terms, anything above 2.5 is hard to scale up within the home as an affordable network, especially if PoE is involved like it will be for me. The other day, Comcast tried to upsell me on going from 1 Gbps to 1.2. There is no reason for me to do that right now considering I can't get past 1 Gbps from behind my current wireless router, and even when I presumably get past that hurdle with a new home network that could allow me to upgrade everything except the PoE to 2.5, 1 to 1.2 isn't worth $10 per month when I haven't noticed any practical difference going from 400 Mbps to gigabit. Likewise here with Comcast. AT&T's 25/2 (or whatever poverty bandwidth it is, I forgot) is not viable.

Let's see, Florida man who is unemployed, carried a gun without a concealed carry permit, has been arrested multiple times, and jailed doesn't understand fair use laws and wants a quick payday. Sounds about right, which is pretty mild on the scale of Florida man memes. FOH and GBTW. Bum.

The multi-monitor support in 10 is not great. I have to use a cocktail of PersistentWindows, Dual Monitor Tools, and PowerToys FancyZones to get what I consider good dual-screen management. Those three apps work together really well, but all that functionality should have been native. Oh yeah, and Steam Big Picture mode, which is the most hacky out of all the apps just for sake of getting a game to load on the secondary monitor, but it works. Other than that, add Open-Shell and 10 IoT Enterprise LTSC 2021 has been the best Windows I've ever used. I know a guy on another forum who still refuses to use 10 because of Edge. First of all, I like having all my hardware properly supported and fully functional. Second, as far as I'm concerned these days, Edge is far better than Chrome, and I use neither. I never bothered trying to force Edge off my Windows like I might have done with IE back in the day with 2000 or XP. Just don't ever launch Edge, and even if you do by accident, so what? Unless you exclusively use browsers that non-enthusiasts have never heard of, you don't really have room to complain. I understand the concerns about forced Windows Updates and telemetry (why I disabled all the 10 upgrade ads when I had 7 on my Sandy Bridge rig and why have 10 IoT Enterprise LTSC now), but Edge is a terrible anti-10 hill to die on.

To be fair, that was GTA V 1.0 on PS3, wasn't it? It's crazy that the same game was released for three generations of consoles and the PC version even had some creators making HQ texture packs for it not too long ago. It's been around for so long that I'm not even sure anymore whether I had the 980 Ti or 1080 Ti when I played it.

I was doing a lot of bitching in the latest purchase thread about unfavorable deals for even-year Comcast when I have to upgrade to a higher tier to maintain similar pricing to the odd years when my bill would theoretically be lower. New deals dropped in December including a more favorable gigabit download for $65/month instead of 1.2 Gbps for $75/month. A new-to-me refurbished Arris S33 modem later and and off we go, but I'm still waiting for them to deploy the upgrade to the wildly asynchronous upload speed that some markets have already gotten. They're beginning to roll out DOCSIS 4.0 and symmetrical upload speeds in the not-too-distant future, and my area has yet to get a mid-split upgrade to increase upload speeds to 100 Mbps on this plan.

I'm going into an even-year screw job from Comcast, which is when I have to upgrade plans to get better pricing on a new plan over second-year pricing on my current plan. The problem however is that upgrading from my current 400 Mbps ($55/month) to 800 ($70/month) won't trigger a new service agreement. So I have to upgrade all the way to 1.2 Gbps (because I'm not downgrading to 200 Mbps which costs a stupid $72/month anyway) to trigger a new service agreement, but that also means I need to upgrade my DOCSIS 3.0 24x8 TP-Link TC7650 cable modem to a DOCSIS 3.1. I've been reading that Comcast will just push you a neutered generic modem config file that limits you to a small fraction of the advertised speed if you try to use a DOCSIS 3.0 modem with their gigabit plans. The only perk (which it really isn't) of this is that for new service agreements, the 800 and 1200 plans are the same $70/month price for the first year. In effect though, 1200 is cheaper for me because going with 800 would be treated as year 2 of my existing agreement and cause the price to go up to $95/month ($80/month base plus $10 for the 400-to-800 upgrade, plus another $5 for their decreased discount for auto-pay via credit card, because no way in hell am I giving them ACH access to my bank account). So for the next year, I'll be paying $75/month for the privilege of gigabit Internet that I didn't even want. EABOD Comcast. I can downgrade at this time next year, but I wouldn't be surprised if they just eliminate any non-poverty bandwidth options below $60 by then.

So, did anyone get any good deals for Black Friday? I bought a new refrigerator from Lowe's online on Wednesday and it was delivered today and installed for less than 5 minutes before I noticed there was a dent on the right door. They offered an extra 10% discount for the damage, but I already stacked a lot of online shopping/credit card cash back discounts on top of the seasonal discounts from Lowe's/LG, and a couple of other refrigerators I had considered, a KitchenAid and a GE Cafe, would have cost $700-1000 more, so a scratch-and-dent discount wasn't going to entice me. I just wanted what I ordered to be in pristine condition. No deal. Back it went, new delivery date TBD. I joked to my cousin afterward, you can obviously tell I don't have kids. Well, at least I know now all the items in my freezer almost fit in my large cooler. Also, I usually have my large purchases planned out well over a month in advance, so I can't believe how much refrigerator research I was able to cram into less than a week. Fridge shopping is definitely an exercise in finding a compromise between just enough technological innovation so you enjoy your new appliance versus going overboard on tech and having an unreliable POS. They can't all be Sub-Zero fridges, and thankfully can't all be priced like one either.

I would at least attempt to dispute that with PayPal, but the likelihood of it working out probably isn't that great. I have no idea what the payment method options are to a VS forum nor am I curious enough to find out, but for a scumbag organization like that (assuming they had ever provided a valuable service worth paying for instead of the scam or ripoff it is), the only option is to pay by credit card so you can keep the chargeback option on standby.

Here's a personal rule I have: Never trade resolution in either dimension for physically larger dimensions. In this case, you'd be losing physical height as well, and that kills immersion for me. I went from a 34" 3440x1440 ultrawide to a 38" 3840x1600 and the difference in immersion is massive. That was the difference between "The ultrawide FOV is nice," and "Oh, I'm really in the game!" As for some other thoughts, whenever I see a gaming monitor, I make myself consider all the non-gaming uses that will still occur. 5120x1440 would be great for gaming in games that support it, and not very fun to deal with otherwise. What I like about my 38" LG UltraGear 38GN950-B is that the 3840 pixel width perfectly matches up with my 55" 4K Samsung QN85A so moving windows between screens is easier to manage and I don't have to readjust window sizes as much. 5120 is really ugly to work with in terms of window splitting. 2160 for half-screen width is too wide, but you also can't evenly split the screen into thirds. It's manageable with apps like PowerToys, but still a nuisance. Each third would also be less than 1920 pixels wide, which is of course a frequently utilized window width. As for OLED technology, in the TV world currently, LG's WOLED technology does better against burn-in than Samsung's QD-OLED. I've decided to completely skip OLED for any PC use and wait out MicroLED, but LG is significantly better in this regard if you look at the comparison of the two OLED technologies on Rtings. Last I read earlier this year, all the OLED PC monitors coming out now are QD-OLED, so that's less than ideal. I leave static images on screen a lot of the time because I also work from home. I'm not willing to make the behavioral changes to mitigate burn-in and I doubt that's realistically feasible for work use anyway. All that being said, I would go with an LG C3 before I would even entertain the Samsung Odyssey G9. It has too many practical compromises for my liking, whereas LG WOLED technology is very mature and capable of handling almost anything you can throw at it.

That's a nice pickup! My parents have a Sharp CD-BH950 with a CD changer that ate dirt. They don't really care enough to do anything about it, and I wasn't sure what to replace it with if there ever is a desire to replace it, but $250 for another one of those Sharp systems is not something I would personally consider. I haven't done a CD-RW in nearly a decade, a pressed CD (a hard-to-find single that I couldn't find for download anywhere) in about a decade that I promptly ripped to FLAC/MP3, and last messed with cassette tapes when the years started with 19-. Even though I have the means to do so, I have no interest in digitizing their physical music collection. If they had a sense of humor, that would be their definition of a fool's errand.

Yeah, nah.

This is not unexpected for these unbranded or Scrabble hand named devices running an outdated version of Android on a chipset that nobody's ever heard of. If I'm going to use a Chinese-branded and marketed item (of which I do have several, including some that I'll even swear by like my DAC and some that I won't like my soup ladle), it's not going to be an item that can connect to the Internet. Years ago back when I cared about TV, I looked into these types of devices for Kodi. By the time I found one that had a respectable hardware spec, I would have been better off getting an Nvidia Shield TV. I ended up just configuring that stuff to work on an $40 Amazon Fire TV Stick and called it a day.

Meant to post this a while ago and I guess I never did. The thirst for more storage every couple of years continues. I've now exhausted the BarraCuda Pro line and I got this one for only $140. I guess Toshiba N/X300 (Pro) comes next. This one finished WinRoboCopy file transfers rather quickly. It was done overnight, whereas my previous 12 TB BarraCuda Pro took somewhere between 16-24 hours it felt like. Either I have a foggy memory or there could have been something wrong with my 12 TB.