Jump to content

Welcome to ExtremeHW

Welcome to ExtremeHW, register to take part in our community, don't worry this is a simple FREE process that requires minimal information for you to signup.

 

Registered users can: 

  • Start new topics and reply to others.
  • Show off your PC using our Rig Creator feature.
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get updates.
  • Get your own profile page to customize.
  • Send personal messages to other members.
  • Take advantage of site exclusive features.
  • Upgrade to Premium to unlock additional sites features.
IGNORED

RTX 4090: availability and power question


neurotix
4 Attachments

Recommended Posts

Premium Platinum - Lifetime

So I'm interested in a RTX 4090 as I think the next generation of cards is going to be even more expensive and the top end card in the 5000 series will probably be $2000 at this rate. My dual 1080tis (which are still damn relevant and a good setup if a game supports SLI, but I play Forza and it doesn't) cost $1600 in 2017 so spending about that on a RTX 4090 that is more than twice as powerful as the two 1080tis seems worth it.

 

I know a few forum members have gotten their hands on one, I'm wondering how. I saw someone say that B&H Photo "offered" them one. Does this have to do with the waitlist if you make an account? My wife looked into it and said it would just be an email notification when one was in stock. She also told me they had stock somewhere online and they all sold out within 4 minutes of being available. I've/we've been checking our local Microcenter daily and she made an account to be able to reserve one if they are ever available. What's the best way to acquire one and where have owners of one here gotten one?

 

My second question is about powering the thing. I have a Cooler Master V1000 (Seasonic unit) that is about 10 years old but rock solid. It obviously does not have the newfangled 12-pin PCI-E power connector. However, it has two cables each ending in two 6+2 pin connectors. I know they include an adapter with most 4090s, what I'm wondering is if I should connect a 6-pin from one cable and a 6-pin from another cable instead of connecting two 6-pins off of one cable. I've heard the card can draw 600w under load (not sure if that's true or nonsense) and I seriously doubt a single cable would provide enough power. I am concerned about a single cable and attaching two 6 pins, power supply gurus would know more about this than me. Take a look at pictures of my rig in other threads to see what I mean- my current setup has two 8-pins connected to each 1080ti (which draw maybe 350w each under intense loads like Fire Strike Ultra or Time Spy Extreme). So if it's not clear, if I manage to get my hands on a RTX 4090 should I connect one 6-pin from one cable and another 6-pin from the other cable to the adapter so I don't overload my PSU? (Concerned about it shutting off under heavy load and overloading my 12v rail)

 

Thanks for any replies.

{"USD":"5179"}

Owned

 Share

CPU: Ryzen 9 9950X
MOTHERBOARD: Asus ROG Strix X670E-E Gaming Wifi
RAM: G.skill TridentZ5 7600MHz 36-45-45-45
GPU: MSI Gaming X Trio RTX 4090
MONITOR: Acer Ultrawide 3440x1440 144Hz HDR400 FreeSync Premium
SSD/NVME: Crucial T700 1TB PCIE 5 M.2
PSU: Superflower Leadex VII XG 1300w Gold
CPU COOLER: EK Nucleus AIO black edition 360mm
Full Rig Info

null

Owned

 Share

CPU: i5-7600k 4.5GHz
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS ROG Strix Z270H Gaming
RAM: G.skill Flare X DDR4 3333MHz 14-14-14
CASE: Silverstone Grandia series GD09
SSD/NVME: Samsung 850 Evo
GPU: GT 710
CPU COOLER: Thermalright AXP120-X67 Low Profile CPU Air Cooler
MONITOR: Asus V239H 1080p 60Hz IPS
Full Rig Info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, neurotix said:

I saw someone say that B&H Photo "offered" them one. Does this have to do with the waitlist if you make an account? My wife looked into it and said it would just be an email notification when one was in stock. She also told me they had stock somewhere online and they all sold out within 4 minutes of being available. I've/we've been checking our local Microcenter daily and she made an account to be able to reserve one if they are ever available. What's the best way to acquire one and where have owners of one here gotten one?

 

I'm the one who B&H sent that invitation to:

 

Spoiler

2022-12-05_17-17-24.thumb.jpg.1c988bc79c1accd5408510c07cfdbc5a.jpg

 

Hard to say specifically why they actually sent me that invitation, but I did sign up for a couple of the 4090 cards at some point. I may have also wish-listed them, but I'm not sure at this point. 

 

Could also have something to do with a number of other big ticket purchases I made with them over the years; in a simialr vein, I'm not sure how much that played a role though in this instance. 

 

Quote

My second question is about powering the thing. I have a Cooler Master V1000 (Seasonic unit) that is about 10 years old but rock solid. It obviously does not have the newfangled 12-pin PCI-E power connector. However, it has two cables each ending in two 6+2 pin connectors. I know they include an adapter with most 4090s, what I'm wondering is if I should connect a 6-pin from one cable and a 6-pin from another cable instead of connecting two 6-pins off of one cable. I've heard the card can draw 600w under load (not sure if that's true or nonsense) and I seriously doubt a single cable would provide enough power. I am concerned about a single cable and attaching two 6 pins, power supply gurus would know more about this than me. Take a look at pictures of my rig in other threads to see what I mean- my current setup has two 8-pins connected to each 1080ti (which draw maybe 350w each under intense loads like Fire Strike Ultra or Time Spy Extreme). So if it's not clear, if I manage to get my hands on a RTX 4090 should I connect one 6-pin from one cable and another 6-pin from the other cable to the adapter so I don't overload my PSU? (Concerned about it shutting off under heavy load and overloading my 12v rail)

 

Also hard to say about your second question. You might get by with your existing psu, depends on how much headroom you need for everything else.  @J7SC_Orion might be able to provide more insight here as he's been using his 4090 for a while now. 

 

WWW.TECHPOWERUP.COM

Cooler Master teamed up with Seasonic to make a strong entry into the high-end category where it faces competition using the same OEM (Seasonic). The new V series consists of three models. Today, we will...

 

Edited by iamjanco
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, neurotix said:

So I'm interested in a RTX 4090 as I think the next generation of cards is going to be even more expensive and the top end card in the 5000 series will probably be $2000 at this rate. My dual 1080tis (which are still damn relevant and a good setup if a game supports SLI, but I play Forza and it doesn't) cost $1600 in 2017 so spending about that on a RTX 4090 that is more than twice as powerful as the two 1080tis seems worth it.

 

I know a few forum members have gotten their hands on one, I'm wondering how. I saw someone say that B&H Photo "offered" them one. Does this have to do with the waitlist if you make an account? My wife looked into it and said it would just be an email notification when one was in stock. She also told me they had stock somewhere online and they all sold out within 4 minutes of being available. I've/we've been checking our local Microcenter daily and she made an account to be able to reserve one if they are ever available. What's the best way to acquire one and where have owners of one here gotten one?

 

My second question is about powering the thing. I have a Cooler Master V1000 (Seasonic unit) that is about 10 years old but rock solid. It obviously does not have the newfangled 12-pin PCI-E power connector. However, it has two cables each ending in two 6+2 pin connectors. I know they include an adapter with most 4090s, what I'm wondering is if I should connect a 6-pin from one cable and a 6-pin from another cable instead of connecting two 6-pins off of one cable. I've heard the card can draw 600w under load (not sure if that's true or nonsense) and I seriously doubt a single cable would provide enough power. I am concerned about a single cable and attaching two 6 pins, power supply gurus would know more about this than me. Take a look at pictures of my rig in other threads to see what I mean- my current setup has two 8-pins connected to each 1080ti (which draw maybe 350w each under intense loads like Fire Strike Ultra or Time Spy Extreme). So if it's not clear, if I manage to get my hands on a RTX 4090 should I connect one 6-pin from one cable and another 6-pin from the other cable to the adapter so I don't overload my PSU? (Concerned about it shutting off under heavy load and overloading my 12v rail)

 

Thanks for any replies.

   

Per @iamjanco 's comment above,  I got my Gigabyte Gaming OC RTX 4090 dual-bios model over a month ago...a local outlet of a national chain had about 30 or so for the equivalent unit price of US$ 1,619 but since those early few days, everything on the 4090 front (unlike the 4080s) seems to be sold out. In some tasks, the 4090s are almost twice as powerful as a well-running 3090....

 

Re. power consumption, yes they can get to 600W (more w/ transient spikes though they seem better-controlled in this gen), depending on the model. Typically though, they run very efficiently with far less power than RTX2K and RTX3K...for most games such as Cyberpunk '77 and FS 2020, I use about 380W-400W with a mild oc, and only hard benching will get me to 600W per a few adjustments in MSI Afterburner.  The 4-into-1 PCIe 8 pin-to-1 x 12VHPWR that comes with the cards in their boxes do work, though great care has to be taken that they are not twisted and also FULLY inserted (no gap).

 

Apart from the aforementioned 4-into-1 dongle, I also got a single cable from Cablemod (pic below) that uses 4x PCIe 8 (=6+2) pin connections at the PSU end. In addition, Seasonic was kind enough to send another 12VHPWR cable for free (for a recently purchased Seasonic PX1300W unit) and that cable 'only' has 2x PCIe 8 pin connections at the PSU end but is also rated for 600W (stamped right on it; wire gauge also play a big role in all this). I haven't tried that one yet but have seen other folks report that it works fine at 600W. The 12VHPWR cables are actually 12 + 4 pins (the latter 4 are sense pins / wires re. PSU capabilities). I do think you would have issues reaching full power with just using 2x 6 pin PCIe - or even powering up at all. In any case, Cablemod has a nice configurator > here - perhaps your model is still part of their database even if you don't buy from them, re. additional info. 

 

NewBlue7GOPR1904.jpg.5269999860c1bc64b60beeffb324c1f7.jpg

  • Thanks 1
  • Respect 2

Owned

 Share

CPU: CPU: ><.......7950X3D - Aorus X670E Master - 48GB DDR5 7200 (8000) TridentZ SK Hynix - Giga-G-OC/Galax RTX 4090 670W - LG 48 OLED - 4TB NVMEs >< .......5950X - Asus CH 8 Dark Hero - 32GB CL13 DDR4 4000 - AMD R 6900XT 500W - Philips BDM40 4K VA - 2TB NVME & 3TB SSDs >> - <<.......4.4 TR 2950X - MSI X399 Creation - 32 GB CL 14 3866 - Asus RTX 3090 Strix OC/KPin 520W and 2x RTX 2080 Ti Gigabyte XTR WF WB 380W - LG 55 IPS HDR - 1TB NVME & 4TB SSDs
Full Rig Info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

   

Per @iamjanco 's comment above,  I got my Gigabyte Gaming OC RTX 4090 dual-bios model over a month ago...a local outlet of a national chain had about 30 or so for the equivalent unit price of US$ 1,619 but since those early few days, everything on the 4090 front (unlike the 4080s) seems to be sold out. In some tasks, the 4090s are almost twice as powerful as a well-running 3090....

 

Re. power consumption, yes they can get to 600W (more w/ transient spikes though they seem better-controlled in this gen), depending on the model. Typically though, they run very efficiently with far less power than RTX2K and RTX3K...for most games such as Cyberpunk '77 and FS 2020, I use about 380W-400W with a mild oc, and only hard benching will get me to 600W per a few adjustments in MSI Afterburner.  The 4-into-1 PCIe 8 pin-to-1 x 12VHPWR that comes with the cards in their boxes do work, though great care has to be taken that they are not twisted and also FULLY inserted (no gap).

 

Apart from the aforementioned 4-into-1 dongle, I also got a single cable from Cablemod (pic below) that uses 4x PCIe 8 (=6+2) pin connections at the PSU end. In addition, Seasonic was kind enough to send another 12VHPWR cable for free (for a recently purchased Seasonic PX1300W unit) and that cable 'only' has 2x PCIe 8 pin connections at the PSU end but is also rated for 600W (stamped right on it; wire gauge also play a big role in all this). I haven't tried that one yet but have seen other folks report that it works fine at 600W. The 12VHPWR cables are actually 12 + 4 pins (the latter 4 are sense pins / wires re. PSU capabilities). I do think you would have issues reaching full power with just using 2x 6 pin PCIe - or even powering up at all. In any case, Cablemod has a nice configurator > here - perhaps your model is still part of their database even if you don't buy from them, re. additional info. 

 

NewBlue7GOPR1904.jpg.5269999860c1bc64b60beeffb324c1f7.jpg

I bet for gaming these probably undervolt pretty well? I gotta say sometimes this 3080 Ti with its 350W really is dumping out way too much heat.

  • Thanks 1

null

Showcase

 Share

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
GPU: Nvidia RTX 3080 Ti Founders Edition
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32GB DDR4-3600 (@ 3733 CL14)
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS Crosshair VIII Dark Hero
SSD/NVME: x2 Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2TB
SSD/NVME 2: Crucial MX500 1TB
PSU: be Quiet! Straight Power 12 1500W
MONITOR: LG 42" C4 OLED
Full Rig Info

null

Owned

 Share

CPU: E8400, i5-650, i7-870, i7-960, i5-2400, i7-4790k, i9-10900k, i3-13100, i9-13900ks
GPU: many
RAM: Corsair 32GB DDR3-2400 | Oloy Blade 16GB DDR4-3600 | Crucial 16GB DDR5-5600
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P7P55 WS SC | ASUS Z97 Deluxe | EVGA Z490 Dark | EVGA Z790 Dark Kingpin
SSD/NVME: Samsung 870 Evo 1TB | Inland 1TB Gen 4
PSU: Seasonic Focus GX 1000W
CASE: Cooler Master MasterFrame 700 - bench mode
OPERATING SYSTEM: Windows 10 LTSC
Full Rig Info

Owned

 Share

CPU: M1 Pro
RAM: 32GB
SSD/NVME: 1TB
OPERATING SYSTEM: MacOS Sonoma
CASE: Space Grey
Full Rig Info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oddly enough, the 4090 runs about the same temp to slightly cooler than the 3090 in exactly the same (extensive) loop. The 4090s do like higher VRAM temps than I am running though, but I can always turn the thermostat for central heat up if I want to bench 😄

 

4090tempsVU.thumb.jpg.7d8282cdf072e3bd337443e216e31b3a.jpg

  • Thanks 1

Owned

 Share

CPU: CPU: ><.......7950X3D - Aorus X670E Master - 48GB DDR5 7200 (8000) TridentZ SK Hynix - Giga-G-OC/Galax RTX 4090 670W - LG 48 OLED - 4TB NVMEs >< .......5950X - Asus CH 8 Dark Hero - 32GB CL13 DDR4 4000 - AMD R 6900XT 500W - Philips BDM40 4K VA - 2TB NVME & 3TB SSDs >> - <<.......4.4 TR 2950X - MSI X399 Creation - 32 GB CL 14 3866 - Asus RTX 3090 Strix OC/KPin 520W and 2x RTX 2080 Ti Gigabyte XTR WF WB 380W - LG 55 IPS HDR - 1TB NVME & 4TB SSDs
Full Rig Info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, J7SC_Orion said:

Oddly enough, the 4090 runs about the same temp to slightly cooler than the 3090 in exactly the same (extensive) loop. The 4090s do like higher VRAM temps than I am running though, but I can always turn the thermostat for central heat up if I want to bench 😄

 

4090tempsVU.thumb.jpg.7d8282cdf072e3bd337443e216e31b3a.jpg

Sir B was talking about heat OUTPUT from the card though mate.  Your figures there show nearly 400w heat output, not the actual temperatures of the card itself.  That's why he was talking about undervolting.  My 6900XT for example is nowhere near 400w, I think it peaks around 310w or so at my current settings, and I can absolutely feel the heat coming off of it in my tiny apartment.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

34 minutes ago, pioneerisloud said:

Sir B was talking about heat OUTPUT from the card though mate.  Your figures there show nearly 400w heat output, not the actual temperatures of the card itself.  That's why he was talking about undervolting.  My 6900XT for example is nowhere near 400w, I think it peaks around 310w or so at my current settings, and I can absolutely feel the heat coming off of it in my tiny apartment.

Right exactly. During a gaming session, the heat being poured out of my rig is insane.

 

Since the 4090 is more efficient when compared to 30-series, but not necessarily set to the most efficient part of the curve stock, I just wondered if you can undervolt slightly to get lower heat output and only minimally impacted performance.

 

Frankly I hope 50-series Nvidia figures out a way to also become more efficient in how much total power they are having to use. This 350-450W frankly sucks in the summer.

null

Showcase

 Share

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
GPU: Nvidia RTX 3080 Ti Founders Edition
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32GB DDR4-3600 (@ 3733 CL14)
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS Crosshair VIII Dark Hero
SSD/NVME: x2 Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2TB
SSD/NVME 2: Crucial MX500 1TB
PSU: be Quiet! Straight Power 12 1500W
MONITOR: LG 42" C4 OLED
Full Rig Info

null

Owned

 Share

CPU: E8400, i5-650, i7-870, i7-960, i5-2400, i7-4790k, i9-10900k, i3-13100, i9-13900ks
GPU: many
RAM: Corsair 32GB DDR3-2400 | Oloy Blade 16GB DDR4-3600 | Crucial 16GB DDR5-5600
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P7P55 WS SC | ASUS Z97 Deluxe | EVGA Z490 Dark | EVGA Z790 Dark Kingpin
SSD/NVME: Samsung 870 Evo 1TB | Inland 1TB Gen 4
PSU: Seasonic Focus GX 1000W
CASE: Cooler Master MasterFrame 700 - bench mode
OPERATING SYSTEM: Windows 10 LTSC
Full Rig Info

Owned

 Share

CPU: M1 Pro
RAM: 32GB
SSD/NVME: 1TB
OPERATING SYSTEM: MacOS Sonoma
CASE: Space Grey
Full Rig Info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

34 minutes ago, pioneerisloud said:

Sir B was talking about heat OUTPUT from the card though mate.  Your figures there show nearly 400w heat output, not the actual temperatures of the card itself.  That's why he was talking about undervolting.  My 6900XT for example is nowhere near 400w, I think it peaks around 310w or so at my current settings, and I can absolutely feel the heat coming off of it in my tiny apartment.

 

...I thought @Sir Beregond was talking about heat in his case when he wrote '...sometimes this 3080 Ti with its 350W really is dumping out way too much heat'. On that, my point was that at the same wattage, my 4090 runs cooler than my 3090 in an identical cooling and case setup, including the area around the mobo, PCH etc. Not only is it a different node (4N) but the cards' pcb and water-block are MUCH smaller and more concentrated than the 3090 (and 6900XT) blocks - less overall warm metal in your case to heat things up. It's kind of funny if you strip a 4090 from its giant stock air-coolers and are left with just the pcb and water-block.

  • Thanks 1

Owned

 Share

CPU: CPU: ><.......7950X3D - Aorus X670E Master - 48GB DDR5 7200 (8000) TridentZ SK Hynix - Giga-G-OC/Galax RTX 4090 670W - LG 48 OLED - 4TB NVMEs >< .......5950X - Asus CH 8 Dark Hero - 32GB CL13 DDR4 4000 - AMD R 6900XT 500W - Philips BDM40 4K VA - 2TB NVME & 3TB SSDs >> - <<.......4.4 TR 2950X - MSI X399 Creation - 32 GB CL 14 3866 - Asus RTX 3090 Strix OC/KPin 520W and 2x RTX 2080 Ti Gigabyte XTR WF WB 380W - LG 55 IPS HDR - 1TB NVME & 4TB SSDs
Full Rig Info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

...I thought @Sir Beregond was talking about heat in his case when he wrote '...sometimes this 3080 Ti with its 350W really is dumping out way too much heat'. On that, my point was that at the same wattage, my 4090 runs cooler than my 3090 in an identical cooling and case setup, including the area around the mobo, PCH etc. Not only is it a different node (4N) but the cards' pcb and water-block are MUCH smaller and more concentrated than the 3090 (and 6900XT) blocks - less overall warm metal in your case to heat things up. It's kind of funny if you strip a 4090 from its giant stock air-coolers and are left with just the pcb and water-block.

Well the thing is, if your GPU is pulling 400w, that's 400w worth of heat dump.  Efficiency just means it produces more frames for that 400w, or it could mean that the cooler is doing a better job producing less heat on the silicone itself (GPU temps).  400w is still 400w worth of heat being dumped into the room your computer is in.  It's no different than say a 45w vs a 100w light bulb.  Or a 1500w space heater being ran at 750w setting.  Since PC parts have no way to output that electricity power being drawn other than frames on a screen, its dumped as heat into the room.  Audio parts are a little bit different as they typically put the power out as sound, since sound is energy.  There's no energy being produced by what your computer is drawing from the wall, so that energy has to go somewhere......heat in the room. 🙂  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

...I thought @Sir Beregond was talking about heat in his case when he wrote '...sometimes this 3080 Ti with its 350W really is dumping out way too much heat'. On that, my point was that at the same wattage, my 4090 runs cooler than my 3090 in an identical cooling and case setup, including the area around the mobo, PCH etc. Not only is it a different node (4N) but the cards' pcb and water-block are MUCH smaller and more concentrated than the 3090 (and 6900XT) blocks - less overall warm metal in your case to heat things up. It's kind of funny if you strip a 4090 from its giant stock air-coolers and are left with just the pcb and water-block.

Well its a water-cooled 3080 Ti, so any heat it generates is dumped out of the case. And its excessive heat in the summer. Even in winter this acts as a space heater truly.

null

Showcase

 Share

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
GPU: Nvidia RTX 3080 Ti Founders Edition
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32GB DDR4-3600 (@ 3733 CL14)
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS Crosshair VIII Dark Hero
SSD/NVME: x2 Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2TB
SSD/NVME 2: Crucial MX500 1TB
PSU: be Quiet! Straight Power 12 1500W
MONITOR: LG 42" C4 OLED
Full Rig Info

null

Owned

 Share

CPU: E8400, i5-650, i7-870, i7-960, i5-2400, i7-4790k, i9-10900k, i3-13100, i9-13900ks
GPU: many
RAM: Corsair 32GB DDR3-2400 | Oloy Blade 16GB DDR4-3600 | Crucial 16GB DDR5-5600
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P7P55 WS SC | ASUS Z97 Deluxe | EVGA Z490 Dark | EVGA Z790 Dark Kingpin
SSD/NVME: Samsung 870 Evo 1TB | Inland 1TB Gen 4
PSU: Seasonic Focus GX 1000W
CASE: Cooler Master MasterFrame 700 - bench mode
OPERATING SYSTEM: Windows 10 LTSC
Full Rig Info

Owned

 Share

CPU: M1 Pro
RAM: 32GB
SSD/NVME: 1TB
OPERATING SYSTEM: MacOS Sonoma
CASE: Space Grey
Full Rig Info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, pioneerisloud said:

Well the thing is, if your GPU is pulling 400w, that's 400w worth of heat dump.  Efficiency just means it produces more frames for that 400w, or it could mean that the cooler is doing a better job producing less heat on the silicone itself (GPU temps).  400w is still 400w worth of heat being dumped into the room your computer is in.  It's no different than say a 45w vs a 100w light bulb.  Or a 1500w space heater being ran at 750w setting.  Since PC parts have no way to output that electricity power being drawn other than frames on a screen, its dumped as heat into the room.  Audio parts are a little bit different as they typically put the power out as sound, since sound is energy.  There's no energy being produced by what your computer is drawing from the wall, so that energy has to go somewhere......heat in the room. 🙂  

 

...obviously, no need for coals to Newcastle as 'Watt' is used to quantify the rate of energy transfer. If you read my previous post carefully, I wrote the card is running cooler at the same wattage...for whatever reason, the 4090s are more efficient at the same wattage than the previous gen, and less warm metal in a case probably also helps with that efficiency. Overall, the 4090 gen seems to have fewer heat losses > higher efficiency.

  • Thanks 1

Owned

 Share

CPU: CPU: ><.......7950X3D - Aorus X670E Master - 48GB DDR5 7200 (8000) TridentZ SK Hynix - Giga-G-OC/Galax RTX 4090 670W - LG 48 OLED - 4TB NVMEs >< .......5950X - Asus CH 8 Dark Hero - 32GB CL13 DDR4 4000 - AMD R 6900XT 500W - Philips BDM40 4K VA - 2TB NVME & 3TB SSDs >> - <<.......4.4 TR 2950X - MSI X399 Creation - 32 GB CL 14 3866 - Asus RTX 3090 Strix OC/KPin 520W and 2x RTX 2080 Ti Gigabyte XTR WF WB 380W - LG 55 IPS HDR - 1TB NVME & 4TB SSDs
Full Rig Info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

...obviously, no need for coals to Newcastle as 'Watt' is used to quantify the rate of energy transfer. If you read my previous post carefully, I wrote the card is running cooler at the same wattage...for whatever reason, the 4090s are more efficient at the same wattage than the previous gen, and less warm metal in a case probably also helps with that efficiency. Overall, the 4090 gen seems to have fewer heat losses > higher efficiency.

I understand that......  My 6900XT runs cooler than my 5700XT does, but it still dumps more heat into the room than the 5700XT does though.  You're not wrong that less warm metal certainly would mean less heat coming out.  We're arguing semantics at this point. *shrugs

 

My point is, if you're drawing 400w with the GPU, that's 400w worth of heat dump.  Regardless of the temperatures the card itself is running at.  Just like my card being 310-320w vs my 5700XT's 200-250w.  More power draw = more heat dump.  That's why Sir B was asking about undervolting, to reduce the power draw some, thus reducing the heat dump.

Edited by pioneerisloud
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, pioneerisloud said:

I understand that......  My 6900XT runs cooler than my 5700XT does, but it still dumps more heat into the room than the 5700XT does though.  You're not wrong that less warm metal certainly would mean less heat coming out.  We're arguing semantics at this point. *shrugs

 

My point is, if you're drawing 400w with the GPU, that's 400w worth of heat dump.  Regardless of the temperatures the card itself is running at.  Just like my card being 310-320w vs my 5700XT's 200-250w.  More power draw = more heat dump.  That's why Sir B was asking about undervolting, to reduce the power draw some, thus reducing the heat dump.

Right, I was just curious if anyone has experimented with undervolting to get less watts/heat overall and what the results were. If not, no worries.

 

I am going to see if I can learn how to undervolt my 3080 Ti and see what results are in both performance and heat generation. If done right, its my understanding you can often see same performance or very minimally lower performance for much lower heat.

Edited by Sir Beregond
  • Thanks 1

null

Showcase

 Share

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
GPU: Nvidia RTX 3080 Ti Founders Edition
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32GB DDR4-3600 (@ 3733 CL14)
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS Crosshair VIII Dark Hero
SSD/NVME: x2 Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2TB
SSD/NVME 2: Crucial MX500 1TB
PSU: be Quiet! Straight Power 12 1500W
MONITOR: LG 42" C4 OLED
Full Rig Info

null

Owned

 Share

CPU: E8400, i5-650, i7-870, i7-960, i5-2400, i7-4790k, i9-10900k, i3-13100, i9-13900ks
GPU: many
RAM: Corsair 32GB DDR3-2400 | Oloy Blade 16GB DDR4-3600 | Crucial 16GB DDR5-5600
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P7P55 WS SC | ASUS Z97 Deluxe | EVGA Z490 Dark | EVGA Z790 Dark Kingpin
SSD/NVME: Samsung 870 Evo 1TB | Inland 1TB Gen 4
PSU: Seasonic Focus GX 1000W
CASE: Cooler Master MasterFrame 700 - bench mode
OPERATING SYSTEM: Windows 10 LTSC
Full Rig Info

Owned

 Share

CPU: M1 Pro
RAM: 32GB
SSD/NVME: 1TB
OPERATING SYSTEM: MacOS Sonoma
CASE: Space Grey
Full Rig Info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, pioneerisloud said:

I understand that......  My 6900XT runs cooler than my 5700XT does, but it still dumps more heat into the room than the 5700XT does though.  You're not wrong that less warm metal certainly would mean less heat coming out.  We're arguing semantics at this point. *shrugs

 

My point is, if you're drawing 400w with the GPU, that's 400w worth of heat dump.  Regardless of the temperatures the card itself is running at.  Just like my card being 310-320w vs my 5700XT's 200-250w.  More power draw = more heat dump.  That's why Sir B was asking about undervolting, to reduce the power draw some, thus reducing the heat dump.

 

...I am talking about efficiency - when you have two cards that both run at 400 W but one produces much higher results with that 400W (score, fps), it is more efficient in that it has less heat loss. Dumping the same 400 W into s.th does NOT automatically create the same external heat output.  As a somewhat distant but akin example, when cars where first turbocharged en masse, there was a lot of energy loss due to heat loss (less of the fuel transferred into actual work, more into waste heat). Then they stared coating the headers etc, and finally moved into what is called 'hot-V' in a V6 or V8

 

But @Sir Beregond and @pioneerisloud , I was really just trying to help the OP re. his question on power connections for the 4090, and also compared it directly to my 3090 (up to 520W) in the same loop w/everything else the same...

  • Thanks 1

Owned

 Share

CPU: CPU: ><.......7950X3D - Aorus X670E Master - 48GB DDR5 7200 (8000) TridentZ SK Hynix - Giga-G-OC/Galax RTX 4090 670W - LG 48 OLED - 4TB NVMEs >< .......5950X - Asus CH 8 Dark Hero - 32GB CL13 DDR4 4000 - AMD R 6900XT 500W - Philips BDM40 4K VA - 2TB NVME & 3TB SSDs >> - <<.......4.4 TR 2950X - MSI X399 Creation - 32 GB CL 14 3866 - Asus RTX 3090 Strix OC/KPin 520W and 2x RTX 2080 Ti Gigabyte XTR WF WB 380W - LG 55 IPS HDR - 1TB NVME & 4TB SSDs
Full Rig Info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

...I am talking about efficiency - when you have two cards that both run at 400 W but one produces much higher results with that 400W (score, fps), it is more efficient in that it has less heat loss. Dumping the same 400 W into s.th does NOT automatically create the same external heat output.  As a somewhat distant but akin example, when cars where first turbocharged en masse, there was a lot of energy loss due to heat loss (less of the fuel transferred into actual work, more into waste heat). Then they stared coating the headers etc, and finally moved into what is called 'hot-V' in a V6 or V8

 

But @Sir Beregond and @pioneerisloud , I was really just trying to help the OP re. his question on power connections for the 4090, and also compared it directly to my 3090 (up to 520W) in the same loop w/everything else the same...

Oh absolutely that's a gain in performance per watt. Not saying otherwise.


Oh I know this related back to power connections, but I feel my question is relevant as you mentioned 600W transients, etc. So if one was going to try to run one of these on a 10 year old 1kW PSU, I feel an undervolting question is relevant. If that's not something you have experimented with, then that's that. I was only asking if you knew. I then made the point about heat generation because its something I notice with my 3080 Ti at 350W, so I was curious about the 4090 at 450W.

Edited by Sir Beregond

null

Showcase

 Share

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
GPU: Nvidia RTX 3080 Ti Founders Edition
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32GB DDR4-3600 (@ 3733 CL14)
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS Crosshair VIII Dark Hero
SSD/NVME: x2 Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2TB
SSD/NVME 2: Crucial MX500 1TB
PSU: be Quiet! Straight Power 12 1500W
MONITOR: LG 42" C4 OLED
Full Rig Info

null

Owned

 Share

CPU: E8400, i5-650, i7-870, i7-960, i5-2400, i7-4790k, i9-10900k, i3-13100, i9-13900ks
GPU: many
RAM: Corsair 32GB DDR3-2400 | Oloy Blade 16GB DDR4-3600 | Crucial 16GB DDR5-5600
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P7P55 WS SC | ASUS Z97 Deluxe | EVGA Z490 Dark | EVGA Z790 Dark Kingpin
SSD/NVME: Samsung 870 Evo 1TB | Inland 1TB Gen 4
PSU: Seasonic Focus GX 1000W
CASE: Cooler Master MasterFrame 700 - bench mode
OPERATING SYSTEM: Windows 10 LTSC
Full Rig Info

Owned

 Share

CPU: M1 Pro
RAM: 32GB
SSD/NVME: 1TB
OPERATING SYSTEM: MacOS Sonoma
CASE: Space Grey
Full Rig Info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

30 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

...I am talking about efficiency - when you have two cards that both run at 400 W but one produces much higher results with that 400W (score, fps), it is more efficient in that it has less heat loss. Dumping the same 400 W into s.th does NOT automatically create the same external heat output.  As a somewhat distant but akin example, when cars where first turbocharged en masse, there was a lot of energy loss due to heat loss (less of the fuel transferred into actual work, more into waste heat). Then they stared coating the headers etc, and finally moved into what is called 'hot-V' in a V6 or V8

 

But @Sir Beregond and @pioneerisloud , I was really just trying to help the OP re. his question on power connections for the 4090, and also compared it directly to my 3090 (up to 520W) in the same loop w/everything else the same...

You're talking about digital efficiency as far as frames on the screen go.  We're talking about real world efficiency, as in the heat being dumped into your room.  2 different things here mate.  "Energy in motion is ALWAYS in motion".  Comparing a turbo's efficiency isn't the same thing as discussing a GPU's heat output.  A turbo takes waste heat energy from a car's combustion engine, and brings it back into the engine to produce more power, or more "movement" if you will.  A GPU's ONLY purpose physically is to literally dump heat in the terms of wattage.  That's the only physical thing it does.  That energy HAS to be going somewhere, period, per the laws of physics.

Talking about turbos vs GPU's would be like if we could take the waste heat off a GPU and re-circulating it with a "turbo" to produce even more frames per second.  That doesn't exist because frames aren't a physical thing.  Heat is the byproduct of energy being used.  You're using 400w worth of energy, so 400w worth of heat is being dumped.  A car....a car is using so many watts of power (kilowatts+), but its actually producing movement.  Energy in motion is always in motion.  Until your GPU starts zooming around the room from the power its using, the only PHYSICAL measure you can have from it is heat dumped into the room.  That's the only "movement" it can have with the power it consumes.

Edited by pioneerisloud
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Premium Platinum - Lifetime

Whoa didn't think this would get so heated, haha. (Sorry)

 

I had a 5GHz FX-8350 and 2x R9 290 Tri-X at one point and measured the system running Crysis 3 with my Kill-a-watt meter and it was something like 950w, lol. So it could be worse. I was in a basement though, and I used to fold and mine on those things so it helped warm it up down there.

 

Anyway, thanks Orion for clarifying things for me. I thought the 12-pin adapter took two 6-pin connectors and the new connector just changed the pin arrangement or something but apparently it just takes one 8-pin connector. I'd look into getting custom cable mod cables made but given the age of my PSU, it's unlikely they could do it. It is also not easy accessing my PSU as tons of cables are in the way, I should post a pic of the back side of my rig, it's pretty insane. I'd actually need to disconnect power cables from drives, my 24-pin from my mobo, unscrew the screws holding the PSU to the case, etc to be able to access the back of the PSU.

 

Of course, I gotta get my hand on one of the things first though.

 

 

Edited by neurotix
  • Thanks 2
  • Respect 1

{"USD":"5179"}

Owned

 Share

CPU: Ryzen 9 9950X
MOTHERBOARD: Asus ROG Strix X670E-E Gaming Wifi
RAM: G.skill TridentZ5 7600MHz 36-45-45-45
GPU: MSI Gaming X Trio RTX 4090
MONITOR: Acer Ultrawide 3440x1440 144Hz HDR400 FreeSync Premium
SSD/NVME: Crucial T700 1TB PCIE 5 M.2
PSU: Superflower Leadex VII XG 1300w Gold
CPU COOLER: EK Nucleus AIO black edition 360mm
Full Rig Info

null

Owned

 Share

CPU: i5-7600k 4.5GHz
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS ROG Strix Z270H Gaming
RAM: G.skill Flare X DDR4 3333MHz 14-14-14
CASE: Silverstone Grandia series GD09
SSD/NVME: Samsung 850 Evo
GPU: GT 710
CPU COOLER: Thermalright AXP120-X67 Low Profile CPU Air Cooler
MONITOR: Asus V239H 1080p 60Hz IPS
Full Rig Info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, neurotix said:

Whoa didn't think this would get so heated, haha. (Sorry)

 

I had a 5GHz FX-8350 and 2x R9 290 Tri-X at one point and measured the system running Crysis 3 with my Kill-a-watt meter and it was something like 950w, lol. So it could be worse. I was in a basement though, and I used to fold and mine on those things so it helped warm it up down there.

 

Anyway, thanks Orion for clarifying things for me. I thought the 12-pin adapter took two 6-pin connectors and the new connector just changed the pin arrangement or something but apparently it just takes one 8-pin connector. I'd look into getting custom cable mod cables made but given the age of my PSU, it's unlikely they could do it. It is also not easy accessing my PSU as tons of cables are in the way, I should post a pic of the back side of my rig, it's pretty insane. I'd actually need to disconnect power cables from drives, my 24-pin from my mobo, unscrew the screws holding the PSU to the case, etc to be able to access the back of the PSU.

 

Of course, I gotta get my hand on one of the things first though.

 

 

Yeah I was just asking if one knew about how these things undervolted. Just had to reply with "No" and that would have been that.

 

So my 12-pin adapter for my 3080 Ti adapts two 8-pins. Most 4090's adapt 3 or 4 8-pins to the 16-pin +12VHPWR connector. Now if you are just talking about newer power supplies that natively support the 12VHPWR 16-pin, I think you are right, it's one or two connections directly from the PSU to it. But if you are going to be using an adapter or custom cable adapter for a 4090, you will definitely need 3 or 4 8-pin PCIe plugs available.

Edited by Sir Beregond
  • Thanks 1

null

Showcase

 Share

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
GPU: Nvidia RTX 3080 Ti Founders Edition
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32GB DDR4-3600 (@ 3733 CL14)
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS Crosshair VIII Dark Hero
SSD/NVME: x2 Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2TB
SSD/NVME 2: Crucial MX500 1TB
PSU: be Quiet! Straight Power 12 1500W
MONITOR: LG 42" C4 OLED
Full Rig Info

null

Owned

 Share

CPU: E8400, i5-650, i7-870, i7-960, i5-2400, i7-4790k, i9-10900k, i3-13100, i9-13900ks
GPU: many
RAM: Corsair 32GB DDR3-2400 | Oloy Blade 16GB DDR4-3600 | Crucial 16GB DDR5-5600
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P7P55 WS SC | ASUS Z97 Deluxe | EVGA Z490 Dark | EVGA Z790 Dark Kingpin
SSD/NVME: Samsung 870 Evo 1TB | Inland 1TB Gen 4
PSU: Seasonic Focus GX 1000W
CASE: Cooler Master MasterFrame 700 - bench mode
OPERATING SYSTEM: Windows 10 LTSC
Full Rig Info

Owned

 Share

CPU: M1 Pro
RAM: 32GB
SSD/NVME: 1TB
OPERATING SYSTEM: MacOS Sonoma
CASE: Space Grey
Full Rig Info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

@neurotix

 

...I forgot how much 'fun' this thread had become 😁  --- but given your original query, now is a good time to follow up.  There have been some major shipments of RTX 4090s hitting the stores as of late and while they still move relatively quickly (unlike the 4080s), prices are also reasonable, relatively speaking, at least. I don't know if you already upgraded, but if not, now is not a  bad time at all.

 

The second part of your question was re. 'power'. I have yet to encounter a problem with power, even at > 675 W (pls see below). The custom 12 VHPWR is performing flawlessly, as did the original 4-into-1 dongle (just make sure it is fully inserted).

 

I rarely run it at > 600 W, though...the first pic below shows my 'typical' and restricted settings - just a bit over 400 W (fyi 25 C ambient). The second part of the pic below shows 'full oc power everything'. The point though is that even with much more restricted OC and power, I still max my 4K 120 monitor most of the time. The fps and 1 % low readings below are for MSFS 2020 4K ultra-max everything, and even at just over 400 W (well within your power budget from what I remember), it exceeds most anything I can throw at it...162 fps and 1% low at 143 for FS2020.

 

The 4090 has 76.3 billion transistors while my 3090 has 28.3 billion (the 3090 is now in a work + play machine) and it is really no comparison at 4K, even without but especially with DLSS3/FI/NVReflex. Other games and apps are similar.

 

FS2020_4khigh_FPS-3240full.thumb.jpg.b9a23790740f4f84e89deec669354734.jpg

Owned

 Share

CPU: CPU: ><.......7950X3D - Aorus X670E Master - 48GB DDR5 7200 (8000) TridentZ SK Hynix - Giga-G-OC/Galax RTX 4090 670W - LG 48 OLED - 4TB NVMEs >< .......5950X - Asus CH 8 Dark Hero - 32GB CL13 DDR4 4000 - AMD R 6900XT 500W - Philips BDM40 4K VA - 2TB NVME & 3TB SSDs >> - <<.......4.4 TR 2950X - MSI X399 Creation - 32 GB CL 14 3866 - Asus RTX 3090 Strix OC/KPin 520W and 2x RTX 2080 Ti Gigabyte XTR WF WB 380W - LG 55 IPS HDR - 1TB NVME & 4TB SSDs
Full Rig Info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, J7SC_Orion said:

@neurotix

 

...I forgot how much 'fun' this thread had become 😁  --- but given your original query, now is a good time to follow up.  There have been some major shipments of RTX 4090s hitting the stores as of late and while they still move relatively quickly (unlike the 4080s), prices are also reasonable, relatively speaking, at least. I don't know if you already upgraded, but if not, now is not a  bad time at all.

 

The second part of your question was re. 'power'. I have yet to encounter a problem with power, even at > 675 W (pls see below). The custom 12 VHPWR is performing flawlessly, as did the original 4-into-1 dongle (just make sure it is fully inserted).

 

I rarely run it at > 600 W, though...the first pic below shows my 'typical' and restricted settings - just a bit over 400 W (fyi 25 C ambient). The second part of the pic below shows 'full oc power everything'. The point though is that even with much more restricted OC and power, I still max my 4K 120 monitor most of the time. The fps and 1 % low readings below are for MSFS 2020 4K ultra-max everything, and even at just over 400 W (well within your power budget from what I remember), it exceeds most anything I can throw at it...162 fps and 1% low at 143 for FS2020.

 

The 4090 has 76.3 billion transistors while my 3090 has 28.3 billion (the 3090 is now in a work + play machine) and it is really no comparison at 4K, even without but especially with DLSS3/FI/NVReflex. Other games and apps are similar.

 

FS2020_4khigh_FPS-3240full.thumb.jpg.b9a23790740f4f84e89deec669354734.jpg

4090 is an absolutely amazing performer. 

 

Your combined workstation use makes this cost make more sense. As a gaming only card which I see many buy it for, I don't think I'll ever accept $1600+ as "reasonable".

 

Anyway, I don't think this 3080 Ti will be as long lasting as I was hoping seeing how a lot of newer games are going with the RTX tech and VRAM. But will be interested to see what comes with the 50-series, if we see more of the same or if we see some more return to reason with a good product stack where you don't feel pigeonholed into only getting the top SKU or else sacrificing too much for the $$$ be it low VRAM or overall performance.

null

Showcase

 Share

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
GPU: Nvidia RTX 3080 Ti Founders Edition
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32GB DDR4-3600 (@ 3733 CL14)
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS Crosshair VIII Dark Hero
SSD/NVME: x2 Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2TB
SSD/NVME 2: Crucial MX500 1TB
PSU: be Quiet! Straight Power 12 1500W
MONITOR: LG 42" C4 OLED
Full Rig Info

null

Owned

 Share

CPU: E8400, i5-650, i7-870, i7-960, i5-2400, i7-4790k, i9-10900k, i3-13100, i9-13900ks
GPU: many
RAM: Corsair 32GB DDR3-2400 | Oloy Blade 16GB DDR4-3600 | Crucial 16GB DDR5-5600
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P7P55 WS SC | ASUS Z97 Deluxe | EVGA Z490 Dark | EVGA Z790 Dark Kingpin
SSD/NVME: Samsung 870 Evo 1TB | Inland 1TB Gen 4
PSU: Seasonic Focus GX 1000W
CASE: Cooler Master MasterFrame 700 - bench mode
OPERATING SYSTEM: Windows 10 LTSC
Full Rig Info

Owned

 Share

CPU: M1 Pro
RAM: 32GB
SSD/NVME: 1TB
OPERATING SYSTEM: MacOS Sonoma
CASE: Space Grey
Full Rig Info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Premium Platinum - Lifetime
10 hours ago, J7SC_Orion said:

@neurotix

 

...I forgot how much 'fun' this thread had become 😁  --- but given your original query, now is a good time to follow up.  There have been some major shipments of RTX 4090s hitting the stores as of late and while they still move relatively quickly (unlike the 4080s), prices are also reasonable, relatively speaking, at least. I don't know if you already upgraded, but if not, now is not a  bad time at all.

 

The second part of your question was re. 'power'. I have yet to encounter a problem with power, even at > 675 W (pls see below). The custom 12 VHPWR is performing flawlessly, as did the original 4-into-1 dongle (just make sure it is fully inserted).

 

I rarely run it at > 600 W, though...the first pic below shows my 'typical' and restricted settings - just a bit over 400 W (fyi 25 C ambient). The second part of the pic below shows 'full oc power everything'. The point though is that even with much more restricted OC and power, I still max my 4K 120 monitor most of the time. The fps and 1 % low readings below are for MSFS 2020 4K ultra-max everything, and even at just over 400 W (well within your power budget from what I remember), it exceeds most anything I can throw at it...162 fps and 1% low at 143 for FS2020.

 

The 4090 has 76.3 billion transistors while my 3090 has 28.3 billion (the 3090 is now in a work + play machine) and it is really no comparison at 4K, even without but especially with DLSS3/FI/NVReflex. Other games and apps are similar.

 

FS2020_4khigh_FPS-3240full.thumb.jpg.b9a23790740f4f84e89deec669354734.jpg

 

I've had a MSI Gaming X Trio since Christmas Eve. And now I'm clarified on the 12VHPWR, it looks like a 12 pin PCI-E connector but actually has 4 tiny pins on top. Mine came with a 12VHPWR to 3-pin PCI-E 8 pin adapter and it's what I'm using, with one of the 8 pins Daisy Chained like you're not supposed to, and I also flashed the Galaxy 666 bios to it (MSI stock power limit is 480w with Afterburner slider going to 108%, now it goes to 129% 🔥) it's totally fine, keeph8n told me people were doing it on FE cards with just 2 8 pins on the dongle.

 

I've benched it for HWBOT, also it maxes out Forza Horizon 4&5 at 3440x1440 144fps at stock and osd shows utilization only being 70%. As far as HWBOT now I'm well in the top 100 of both the Enthusiast league and the US.

 

It is currently running folding at home 24/7 and around 2970mhz. Anything higher (3000 or more) makes Linux lock up. However, with the MSI bios folding over 2900mhz in my oc tool I would see the clocks drop to 2000mhz core, then come back up and it would do this every 5 seconds or so. Now with the Galaxy 666w bios that doesn't happen. Also, I've only ever see folding take around 420w max, the units I'm getting now run at like 47c @ 80% fan (can't hear it over the dehumidifier in my finished basement) I'm now a folding billionaire, in about a month of folding I went from 134m points to 1.115b.

 

HWBOT.ORG

The GeForce RTX 4090 @ 3135/1519MHzscores getScoreFormatted in the Unigine...

 

  • Respect 2

{"USD":"5179"}

Owned

 Share

CPU: Ryzen 9 9950X
MOTHERBOARD: Asus ROG Strix X670E-E Gaming Wifi
RAM: G.skill TridentZ5 7600MHz 36-45-45-45
GPU: MSI Gaming X Trio RTX 4090
MONITOR: Acer Ultrawide 3440x1440 144Hz HDR400 FreeSync Premium
SSD/NVME: Crucial T700 1TB PCIE 5 M.2
PSU: Superflower Leadex VII XG 1300w Gold
CPU COOLER: EK Nucleus AIO black edition 360mm
Full Rig Info

null

Owned

 Share

CPU: i5-7600k 4.5GHz
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS ROG Strix Z270H Gaming
RAM: G.skill Flare X DDR4 3333MHz 14-14-14
CASE: Silverstone Grandia series GD09
SSD/NVME: Samsung 850 Evo
GPU: GT 710
CPU COOLER: Thermalright AXP120-X67 Low Profile CPU Air Cooler
MONITOR: Asus V239H 1080p 60Hz IPS
Full Rig Info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, neurotix said:

 

I've had a MSI Gaming X Trio since Christmas Eve. And now I'm clarified on the 12VHPWR, it looks like a 12 pin PCI-E connector but actually has 4 tiny pins on top. Mine came with a 12VHPWR to 3-pin PCI-E 8 pin adapter and it's what I'm using, with one of the 8 pins Daisy Chained like you're not supposed to, and I also flashed the Galaxy 666 bios to it (MSI stock power limit is 480w with Afterburner slider going to 108%, now it goes to 129% 🔥) it's totally fine, keeph8n told me people were doing it on FE cards with just 2 8 pins on the dongle.

 

I've benched it for HWBOT, also it maxes out Forza Horizon 4&5 at 3440x1440 144fps at stock and osd shows utilization only being 70%. As far as HWBOT now I'm well in the top 100 of both the Enthusiast league and the US.

 

It is currently running folding at home 24/7 and around 2970mhz. Anything higher (3000 or more) makes Linux lock up. However, with the MSI bios folding over 2900mhz in my oc tool I would see the clocks drop to 2000mhz core, then come back up and it would do this every 5 seconds or so. Now with the Galaxy 666w bios that doesn't happen. Also, I've only ever see folding take around 420w max, the units I'm getting now run at like 47c @ 80% fan (can't hear it over the dehumidifier in my finished basement) I'm now a folding billionaire, in about a month of folding I went from 134m points to 1.115b.

 

HWBOT.ORG

The GeForce RTX 4090 @ 3135/1519MHzscores getScoreFormatted in the Unigine...

 

 

...I hadn't seen the update. Congrats on the 4090 Christmas present ! I guess it was coals to Newcastle then...

 

But still, I was positively 'shocked' when I forced on resizable_BAR for FS 2020 and picked up an additional 40 fps...the extra driver goodies for the RTX4K sure seem to like that. Something to try out perhaps.

  • Thanks 2

Owned

 Share

CPU: CPU: ><.......7950X3D - Aorus X670E Master - 48GB DDR5 7200 (8000) TridentZ SK Hynix - Giga-G-OC/Galax RTX 4090 670W - LG 48 OLED - 4TB NVMEs >< .......5950X - Asus CH 8 Dark Hero - 32GB CL13 DDR4 4000 - AMD R 6900XT 500W - Philips BDM40 4K VA - 2TB NVME & 3TB SSDs >> - <<.......4.4 TR 2950X - MSI X399 Creation - 32 GB CL 14 3866 - Asus RTX 3090 Strix OC/KPin 520W and 2x RTX 2080 Ti Gigabyte XTR WF WB 380W - LG 55 IPS HDR - 1TB NVME & 4TB SSDs
Full Rig Info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

This Website may place and access certain Cookies on your computer. ExtremeHW uses Cookies to improve your experience of using the Website and to improve our range of products and services. ExtremeHW has carefully chosen these Cookies and has taken steps to ensure that your privacy is protected and respected at all times. All Cookies used by this Website are used in accordance with current UK and EU Cookie Law. For more information please see our Privacy Policy