pio

So I have quite a few new mechanical boards. I'm not really sure what the switches are on any of them though, most are cheap "junk" off Amazon that I'm scoring for reviews lol. Here's my current favorite keyboard. Honestly I dislike linear switches, but this board almost feels like I'm typing on a rubber dome. It's a really weird sensation coming from MX Blue and Kalith Blue switches. ilovbee - 60% with Linear Aster Switches (did I say it right? LOL) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D1XLXGBK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm very much against the 12VHPWR connector, and well.......this is why. Sorry you burned up another PSU. Hopefully this one won't burn down, right? @J7SC_Orion has a lot more experience with the 4090 and that 12vhpwr connector. I'd be heeding his advice and regularly checking those connections. If I'm not mistaken (I could be), the 12vhpwr plug DOES in fact have a limited number of times you can plug and unplug it before the connector is deemed broken. I've heard there's similar "restrictions" on 6/8pin PCIe plugs, however I've never seen that restriction put into PSU warranty and user guides, nor have I seen that limitation tied to a cable like the PSU manufacturers have been doing with the 12vhpwr cables. But every, EVERY modern PSU I've bought or received for review lately, has giant lettering stating there's something like 20 insertions for that plug and that's it. I sincerely hope you get it all sorted out and stop having problems bro. If that was MY CARD, I'd be putting stock vbios on it and run the thing at stock, to avoid future melting incidents. I still want a 4090 eventually, but I get the feeling by the time those cards are down in the budget ebay categories, there probably won't be any left. -_-

Anybody see any good co-op capable (even with mods) games, please let me know and post it here. So far, I haven't seen much on the Steam sale that's of any interest to me yet.

1000

My experience was quite the opposite with my 6900XT. Mine is an MSI design, which uses direct touch heatpipe cooling. As such, there's too many gaps I think on the die, which results in waaay higher hotspot temps. That's my theory, because cards that seem to have a solid coldplate APPEAR to do better with hotspot temperatures. My card has been repasted with PTM7950, and used putty in place of the pads. It helped, but my hotspot is STILL hitting 95*C and there's nothing I can do short of lowering the power limit on the card to like -15% or something. Core hardly ever even breaks 50*C. So if you're stuck to using the stock cooler, look for teardown reviews and make sure its got a solid coldplate first on the cooler. If you're planning on aftermarket cooling it, by all means they should all be pretty fair game I'd imagine then (depending on the cooling method / block of choice). They really are GREAT cards, I run mine 1440p for game recording all the time.

What is "Net Est 2019 Trust We Hardware PC In ExtremeHW"?

I've got an EK Basic 240 in my 5800x / 6900xt build. Works fine, but I wouldn't say it was a "good" cooler. Again, that's the "Basic" model 240 though. Got it as a freebie in one of the events here a few years back. I'm not going to complain about it since it was a freebie, but honestly its not any better than any other generic 240mm AIO I have either. It's also starting to "growl" now weirdly, and that AIO wasn't used but for 6 months so far (as I moved the 5800x system shortly after building it, and that AIO sat for years). I do recall reading the review on that Nucleus AIO that was well reviewed, and yeah that AIO looked great. EK has the tools, knowledge, and staff to do great things. I didn't read why they're imploding, I just assume its yet another sign of the times these days. I'd like to see them do better, absolutely. But their QC has gone downhill a lot the last few years anyway. Most of the REAL water enthusiasts have moved onto other brands anyway because EK has been going downhill on the custom scene for years.

They completely screwed me out of, I want to say it was like $50 a few years back. Bought early tickets to my local annual fair, but I moved away and couldn't use the tickets (bought the tickets in January, fair wasn't until October). Got ahold of ticket master, "You can't go pick up your tickets? No? Oh well you can have somebody else pick them up for you...."....... NO, I don't live there I just want my money back. "Oh sir, we don't offer refunds". Literally never even picked up the tickets, and I asked for the refund like 3 months before the event even happened. -_-

You've got the general idea of the site down yes. But most of us here, also aren't super deep pockets and don't just buy upgrades to buy them, they've got to be a worthwhile upgrade that you can feel. I have literally every generation of AMD components. I don't have x3d parts, no. But I do have a Ryzen 1600, 2600x, 3600, 5800x, and a 7900x. I can tell you PERSONALLY, I'm not super interested in Ryzen 9000 series, as my 7900x finally feels like enough CPU. I can tell you a jump from a 5600x to a 7600x would be a pretty bad decision, it'd be no different than a 3600x to a 5600x jump, except you're doing a whole platform. It is my opinion, a 5700x3d or 5800x3d would be the upgrade of value choice in your situation. Tired of AM4, I totally get that. But a single CCD x3d chip on AM4 absolutely WOULD get you into current gen speeds. A 5700x3d / 5800x3d is about equal to a Ryzen 7700x ish. I would assume the Ryzen 7800x3d would be about equal to a Ryzen 9800x when they release, based on past x3d chip performance vs next gen. If you're feeling the itch, you're going to want more cores AND more IPC to properly "feel" the upgrade. Unless you've got deep pockets to get the full fat 7950x (or 5950x on AM4), then the chip you want is the 8 core x3d chip. Your choices are either an AM4 option and keep your parts, or jump to AM5 with the 7800x3d (or go with just the more cores of the 7700x / 7800x). Or.....you can wait the ~1 month for Ryzen 9000 series to hit, and perhaps pick up an 8 core part of those. Those might also influence current part pricing. I'd either wait for 9000 series (and look at 8 core part upgrades), or grab an AM4 x3d chip now.

Was a very solid review @Sir Beregond. Definitely learned a thing or two about this case in the review, and turns out... yeah I don't think I'd want one due to the top section issues you had with yours. They really should have included a cover or something for the PSU section, and put the rad maybe on the top instead of side venting it. Neat case though, and is probably totally fixable with a little custom work. Hope you enjoyed building in it!

This. Also, I cannot confirm as I don't have one, but SUPPOSEDLY the 7900x3d is a bad purchase due to having two CCD's, and only one of them has the x3d cache. So essentially you've basically got a 7600x3d, but with 6 extra non 3d cores. That's what I was reading about it from others though, so take it with a big grain of salt. But as a 7900x (regular) owner, I'd agree with Pookie. I'd be waiting till next month too if you can.

Perfect........ I'll make sure to daisy chain the 8pins too!

Just for that......... In, but count me out of prizes! I can at least get the GTX 960 running. Probably about all I'll be able to run this go around due to heat and my 7900XTX causing me nothing but headaches atm. PSU is getting swapped out hopefully this week.

Only one software you need here. Exact Audio Copy WWW.EXACTAUDIOCOPY.DE Exact Audio Copy is a so called audio grabber for CDs using standard CD and DVD-ROM drives. The main differences I'd suggest using .flac format over mp3 though, but the software will do both just fine. Very customizable with how the library naming can be laid out too.

"Nvidia assures that no cards will be damaged by using this feature", ummm, aren't there like 3 or 4 "killer" drivers out there from Nvidia already? I support this feature advancement, by all means, absolutely. I don't take Nvidia at their word is all anymore. Neat idea though, would like to see something more universal, like an MSI Afterburner auto OC feature that actually works.

They're of use if you get the itch to build a Win9X build.

I'm weird I guess. I just run the Brave Browser, the way it comes out of the box. I do have adblocking enabled, however my adblock is network wide, not browser extensions. I don't really NEED any browser extensions.

Ummmm, I'd need a 56k warning just to post one room's worth of extra junk.......... -_-

I actually have a router connected to WAN on another router right now (kinda). I did it on purpose to seperate the networks though. I have 2x "naked" routers (each with their own ISP). Those both plug into a PC on my rack, which connects the ISP's to my VPN together. Then the VPN'ed connection goes out to another router's WAN port, which that router is my "main" router for the whole house. As such, I have ZERO problems connecting directly to the "naked" networks behind the VPN'ed router, even though my actual connection is through the VPN to the internet. However, in MY instance, I cannot connect to the VPN'ed network from inside of the "naked" networks. It could be the PC in the middle, it could be a NAT setting.....idk. Not going to mess with it since it works though.

I've never had much luck with that option on consumer grade routers? I'm also a networking noob, so also a very fair point to call that out.

I'd like to further expand on this a tad. When you disable DHCP on the second router (or turn on AP mode), you'll NEED to plug the first router into Port 1 on the second router (or any port really besides WAN). When using a router as a switch, you DO NOT use the WAN port as it is there for your ISP connection in. In this instance, your second router is not connected directly to the ISP (for DHCP). So you'd wire it up as an unmanaged switch, aka, you'd use the 4 ports without the WAN (since switches don't have a WAN). And yes, this will work perfectly fine with like 99% of the routers I've ever played with. Most routers have basic switch functionality in them already, you just need to disable DHCP first (or enable AP mode). -------------------------- The way you were planning on wiring it up, by using the WAN port also in theory WILL work perfectly fine. However to use the WAN port, you'd leave DHCP enabled (or leave the router in router mode). This method WILL create basically a second network entirely off of the first one. As such, both routers will have completely isolated networks. You will be able to get into the first router's network from the second one, but NOT vice versa due to the WAN port on the second router being used. At least, that's been my experience. There might be like some port forwarding way to accomplish it or something, but yeah. I haven't been able to make bidirectional communication happen using this method, only the first method listed above.

Well, I mean if I personally break something I'll fix it anyway just because that's common courtesy. Up here in WA State though, a landlord asking a tenant to make home or property repairs is 100% illegal here. If its their property, its their problem to fix it, and the law states they HAVE to fix it. Kinda crappy for good landlords that have horrible tenants honestly, but it DOES help out the good tenants with crappy landlords though.

Wait a second, WHAT? You're renting, that's literally not your mailbox, not your problem bro. That can't be legal for the landlord to have YOU make repairs on THEIR house, can it? I understand the want and still need for having better security cameras, but reading that just blew my mind. Also, can also confirm Arlo cameras suck. My parents had a set at their old house, and my brother in law's truck was lit on fire (vandalism) right in front of the house. We caught enough footage that the entire neighborhood could tell who did it when we were asking around who it was (it was the neighbor who did it). But the footage unfortunately wasn't good enough for the police, since it didn't CLEARLY catch his face, but yet he was wearing the same clothes as in the video, live when interviewed. Whatever, that's an entirely different argument too....... Point is, the cameras failed to capture the moment that the dude tossed the molotov into the truck, but it caught him coming back to check on his fire and pour gasoline on it.

I'm not too good with cameras and security systems, but is there a way you can setup a DVR, like with a PC or something, that'll just record the Arlo cameras all the time? Pretty sure OBS could handle that. Idk about "data retention" though......like overriding old files the way a regular DVR would do when the drives get full. Idk, just trying to think of ways to make your existing stuff work better.

Welcome over here to the good side of forums!