Alex

Is it fixed yet?

Diablo 2: Resurrected. Actually an amazing remake - glad they outsourced it to the people who did the remake for Tony Hawk Proskater 1&2.

Honestly not much beats the intake sound of an I4 for me. In person it was so much louder and all from the intake too. I'm taking a road trip to some windy roads in October so hopefully I'll be able to get some nice GoPro footage and sound of how this sounds when being pushed. Can't really drive this thing how it's meant to be in the World's most grid-like city Anyway, onto more things done to this car! I finally got some paint-touch up goodies and wow it makes such a difference. I filled in all the stone chips on the side door, trunk, fenders, inside the bonnet, etc. The ones on the front bumper that had only chipped off the first layer of paint but left the others I left for now - it was too hard to get done properly and it'll just happen again... I really need to get the front bumper resprayed and PPF'ed (along with the headlights). Some more pictures after the wash and wax post paint correction:

1996 LEXUS LS400 4DR SALOON DRIVER SIDE FRONT WINDOW SWITCH WWW.EBAY.CO.UK I have more parts for LEXUS LS400 1996. Literally 10 pounds, just get this

It cost my CAD$650 for a full tune including tax. That's around $500 USD. The guy tuning it was very nice, gave me the run down of what he was doing, things that I would need to change in the future as well as gave me the file so I can change it in the future by myself.

Finally got it dyno tuned! Considering the mods (or lack thereof) it put out a respectable 215whp and 155wlb-ft (160wkw and 210wnm). Which should be around 245-250hp / 178lb-ft (185kw / 242nm) to the crank given 15% losses.

And here's the video of the last pull/run:

Finally got it dyno tuned! Considering the mods (or lack thereof) it put out a respectable 215whp and 155wlb-ft (160wkw and 210wnm). Which should be around 245-250hp / 178lb-ft (185kw / 242nm) to the crank given 15% losses.

Thought I heard some whining under the hood that increased with acceleration, so I went ahead and ordered a new tensioner and idler pulley (that came with NTN 6203 bearings in them) as well as a new belt from Honda. Rather expensive, but nice peace of mind as I don't think they have ever been replaced (and it is scheduled in the manual to be replaced at 100k km). Installed them today and also used some Flitz to polish some AC lines because I'm OCD like that. Now I just need to paint the valve cover and it'll look mint. 96YG6bg.mp4

Thought I heard some whining under the hood that increased with acceleration, so I went ahead and ordered a new tensioner and idler pulley (that came with NTN 6203 bearings in them) as well as a new belt from Honda. Rather expensive, but nice peace of mind as I don't think they have ever been replaced (and it is scheduled in the manual to be replaced at 100k km). Installed them today and also used some Flitz to polish some AC lines because I'm OCD like that. Now I just need to paint the valve cover and it'll look mint. 96YG6bg.mp4

REEEE Where's my S2000?

Got the car up and running again, was waiting on 2 cam tower bolts. It's a bit louder and ticky-er with the new valve adjustment and definitely starts up quicker with no hesitation from the new spark plugs. Also glad I changed the valve cover seals as I saw it weeping oil near the rear of the engine. Now just on to painting the valve cover this weekend... but it's scheduled to rain (again) so might not.

Or they have them on the side mirror like my old Accord did. Also got the car up and running again, was waiting on 2 cam tower bolts. It's a bit louder and ticky-er with the new valve adjustment and definitely starts up quicker with no hesitation from the new spark plugs. Also glad I changed the valve cover seals as I saw it weeping oil near the rear of the engine. Now just on to painting the valve cover this weekend... but it's scheduled to rain (again) so might not.

The different valve cover might be a spoiler as to what's ahead

Also I did the valve clearances yesterday, worst exhaust was 0.008" and worst intake was 0.007". Set them to 0.011" exh and 0.009" intake. Sadly, someone seems to have used way too much torque on the valve cover bolts and when I was undoing two of them near the exhaust side of the engine the bolts snapped off in place. So I have ordered the cam tower bolts and new bolts to replace them and they'll be arriving on Thursday. Also took the opportunity to replace the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. Additionally I replaced the spark plugs with new iridium spark plugs, and new Denso coils and freshened up the spark plug cover with some sanding on the logo and wording. I can't wait to actually start it up and try it out... but will have to wait until later this week to do so. Will probably remove the valve cover again this weekend to paint it as it's looking rather worse for wear.

Also I did the valve clearances yesterday, worst exhaust was 0.008" and worst intake was 0.007". Set them to 0.011" exh and 0.009" intake. Sadly, someone seems to have used way too much torque on the valve cover bolts and when I was undoing two of them near the exhaust side of the engine the bolts snapped off in place. So I have ordered the cam tower bolts and new bolts to replace them and they'll be arriving on Thursday. Also took the opportunity to replace the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. Additionally I replaced the spark plugs with new iridium spark plugs, and new Denso coils and freshened up the spark plug cover with some sanding on the logo and wording. I can't wait to actually start it up and try it out... but will have to wait until later this week to do so. Will probably remove the valve cover again this weekend to paint it as it's looking rather worse for wear.

I have a manual, I'm fine.

K swap it

Picked up some clear sidemarkers, new sidemarker light bulbs, new cabin filter and some spark plug tube seals (to be used soon). Old filter wasn't as dusty as I expected, but I took the chance to replace it and clean the cowl area thoroughly as well.

Nope, normal high heat primer and then matte black paint. It's meant to be the stuff for BBQs so I'm sure I'll be fine with whatever temps are in the battery side of the engine bay. I much prefer this over the stock OEM shiny plastic coated metal. IMO they should be black plastic from the factory, no rust issues and no potential issue with shorts if you somehow manage to make it contact the positive and negative terminal when removing. Also going to pick up some (small) parts tomorrow!

Also got a dashcam / GoPro mount so I don't have to stick it onto the rear windshield anymore!

Battery tie down was looking really worse for wear, so I sanded it down and painted it. I think it came out really well, I didn't want someone else's logo on my car neither.

Amber side markers? Interesting considering it's EU/JDM

What's interesting is 240PS is thrown around a lot, but the F20C actually usually dynos lower for some reason. The F22C is much closer to those numbers to the crank if not a wee bit higher. I'm expecting 220 HP to the wheels when I dyno it with an intake + decat + tune. That is around 250 HP to the crank give or take. Wheel Horsepower to Crankshaft Horsepower Guestimator WWW.MK5CORTINAESTATE.CO.UK 261 if you believe this.

The car is an AP2v2 so it has the F22C engine with a stock rev limit of 8200rpm. It's safe to rev them out to 8500rpm with a Hondata tune increasing the rev limit (8500rpm on the F22C is the same mean piston speed as the F20C at 9000rpm due to the F22C being a longer stroke). The biggest issue I have is finding some space to actually allow the car to be revved out, it's a rather split-personality car... and not being able to wring it out as often as I'd like does suck. It's partly why I want to move to BC as I've seen there are better roads there (more twisties... less grids).