Bones

That's because at this time it's the newest version being sold so you'll need a key for it. Most of the rest are "Legacy" and can be downloaded with the key for full functionality for free but the version that has CPU Max in it is the current version you can get, probrably won't be legacy for sometime to come unlike the others are now.

No problem, glad I could.

That's more or less a given in HWbot comps, you will need to have a pic of the setup with each and every sub you do. Unless the rules say specifically you don't need a rig pic, you need one.

It's great to see you guys pushing things hard, this way the site gets it's name out there and earns rep for doing it. I will mention an obvious thing - Be sure to check the rules BEFORE subbing or even doing a run in a given category. This way your efforts won't be wasted and, in the case of an illegal sub you won't be penalized in terms of sub removal - If it's gets bad enough it could affect you directly so be sure to KNOW the rules before doing a run and go by them. If there is something you don't know or understand - Ask. Aside from that, good luck and happy hunting, benching.... Whatever works for you. EDIT: @pioneerisloud You are not allowed to "Downcore" chips, so you can't use the 1100T in the Stage 3 AMD CPU part of it. You are allowed to unlock cores though. You'll have to run either a true quad core or find an AM3 that you can unlock to 4 good cores to be legal. That's been a thing at the bot across the board so if you run your 1100T for that part of the comp it will get tossed. Only real exceptions are for benchmarks that core count doesn't affect the results of such as Super PI, lots of subs there with disabled cores and yes, I have a few myself that way.

You're probrably right about that but in my experience it seems that way. Never had a problem with Nvidia cards but most distros woudn't work correctly with an AMD/ATI card. When I tried Peppermint it just worked as you'd want it to, no luck with any others I tried.

Nope - Excessive waterflow can cause heat buildup in it's cooling system and yes, as said I've ran into that before and it took installing a good thermostat to restore efficiency. I've also seen some guys install a simple washer with a given sized hole (Has to be of a certain size) as a quick fix too until they could get a proper thermostat - The washer thing is also a drag racer's trick to get more heat in the engine to help combustion without it getting too hot before the run is done. As long as they don't mess around much getting a run in it works but know it's a low-tech trick, normally a "Hotter" thermostat is used. I worked on autos and heavy equipment (Diesels) for a living in the field out of a service van (Not in a shop) so I've seen it before happening for more reasons than you'd believe possible yet it did. As for PC's as I said above, I don't think they'll have any issues trying the pump they have.

I actually recorded it so now I've got it even if it's removed.

Actually it's possible to reduce cooling efficiency but that's in extreme cases only. Normally the rad can remove heat quickly enough it's not a problem to even consider. It's the same effect if for example you remove the center from a thermostat in a car, although water is flowing all the time it flows so fast the radiator cannot remove all the heat it needs to, leading to a slow but sure heat buildup in the cooling system. I've ran into that before so I know it's true but an auto is different than a PC, you're not dealing with the same amount of heat energy with a PC even though temps can be about the same when in operation at times. Thing is it always takes time to remove enough heat energy so you don't have heat buildup in the coolant - That being key to the problem and the sticking point of it if a problem exists. In PC cooling systems it's possible but extremely unlikely. If it ever happens it can be offset by installing a small restriction in the tubing somewhere to slow it down if you must. Be it an actual restriction in it somewhere, maybe a smaller piece of tubing/hose somewhere in the loop, whatever works to slow the flow is the way to go with it if such occurs. If your pump speed is variable you can always turn it down a little too. Also know larger tubing can be used too throughout the system, that tends to soak up some of the flow volume because it increases the volume of coolant flow and creates a slowing effect to the coolant overall, based on pump speed being the same. So... Take the pump and try it. I believe it will be fine but if not, a larger/extra rad inline for extra cooling area or stronger fans to the rad may offset it.

Here's something you guys may be interested in and it's based on things that's long been proven to be true. Will It Run? Lawn Mower Carb on V8! (The "IMPOSSIBLE" Becomes Reality!) Start to Finish - YouTube

With an AIO and based on my own results with custom cooling on chilled I'd have to say 5.1-5.2 max under load. Disabling cores will let you go further but you won't hit 6.0 - I never did that way.

AMD GPU's and linux can be an odd lot to get sorted if ever. It depends on the distro you want to run, had the same basic issues with my Radeon VII and Linux not wanting to run it. Tried the Mint distro and it didn't work but then tried the Peppermint distro and it did fine. Unfortunately most Linux distros are "Nvidia-Centric" so you'll have to get and try different ones until you find a distro that works and that you like to go with. I would suggest Peppermint because it works but since the developer passed away in 2021 there has (To my knowledge) been no further development of it, Peppermint 10 being the last version released.... But ATM I am still using it (Pep 10) and posting with it right now.

Late to the party here but I made it. I have seen 2000+ with 4 sticks in use but check out the specs of the sticks I was running in the CPU-Z tabs, that being a big factor in this. Was my daily system on air at the time when I did this and knew to take an example screenie when I got it. I believe I had RAM voltage around 1.72-1.75v when I did it, there was no need for excessive voltage. They did have air blowing on them, courtesy of my Scythe Susanoo CPU cooler. As for 6GHz on DICE, yes it can be done. Don't expect to see much over that, probrably 6.2-6.3 on average as a max speed with a few examples getting 6.5 or so but know the board and tweaks used matters as well. Thing is any attempts at such will take time, you won't just hit the power button and "Go", even if you know what you are doing. Once you figure it out then you can do that but know results obtained do vary from chip to chip and once again, it's largely based on what tweaks are used and how they are done.

It's a stock 2.2GHz chip. Bones`s SuperPi - 1M score: 35sec 625ms with a Athlon XP-M 3000+ (Barton)

I remember the days you'd get an AOL sample/starter CD in the mail. I tossed them and kept the CD case for other things, I may have one of those old disks from back then around.... Probrably not but it's possible. I still have most all I'd need to build a retro-machine around here and may have to do that one day, biggest thing is I need a case and a decent PSU for it. I have all else required to do it and can easily build a Socket A now if I had the others things I listed so maybe.... One day I'll get it done. Have a rare XP-M 3000+ chip onhand (Also have a XP-M 2800+ and a XP-M 2500+) with all the DDR I'll ever need, ready to go right now. I Could base it on an Abit AN7 or NF7/NF7-S if I want or even a Asus A7N8X Deluxe 2.0, have all of that here - I even have an unmodified DFI NF2 Ultra B in the box I could use if I really wanted to. Water blocks, good air coolers..... Chipset coolers.... Periphials..... CD drives..... Yep, I've still got all that too. To create the "Ultimate" Socket A gaming rig I'd still need to find an ATI 3850 AGP card to round it all out but I do have a couple of decent AGP cards onhand at least. If anyone has "Jane's WWII Fighters" we could fly it online, I used to create custom missions for the forum based on it long ago and can do it on a dime even now if I had to.

Did my share of things with it and even judged a show once or twice, I'm still familiar with all that.... Esp the cheezy trophies.

Literally back in the day (Mid-Late 80's) when "Boom" was the thing. You had all the mini-trucks dropped and shaking from the boom that made everything around shake too. I still remember when Alpine released one of the very first CD players for a vehicle that turned out to have problems with skipping because of it. I remember all the Rockford-Fosgate amps/woofers and all the rest you could get. I still have a smaller amp (300W) and a set of 12' woofers from the late 80's/early 90's and could get all that going again if I wanted to.

Need a good Socket A board? I've got a few here.... Just let me know.

Yes it is. The card right after I got it developed an issue with the audio output clipping and after looking it over I determined it was getting too hot while in use. What I found was the way it's made the card had essentially no ventilation, making it run hot all the time and I recalled from way back in the day big stereo setups in cars had amps that would get hot and act in a similar way. Since the card itself is just a mini-amp for a PC, it naturally follows that was probrably the cause of the issue. I took the little window out, mounted a CPU cooler fan and tried it - No audio clipping no matter how hard I push it eversince.

Just picked up a 3950X chip and of course this will be used with it. I've seen the info in the video before in that it does better, not worse with higher heat loads such as ran with a TR instead of an AM4. In any case it won't overheat and that being the concern for me, this cooler will work fine for my useage without complaint.

No, and that's why I got it. Here's a link to the site where you can find these: IceGiant - CPU Cooling Technology & Innovation Note that they fit AM4/TR and a few of the new(er) Intel sockets that I'm aware of, definitely nothing older than AM4 for AMD.

Here's something I picked up last year. It's an IceGiant cooler and it's currently in use, with this very system I'm using to post with in fact. Did some testing right after I got it and the results were good, CPU was set for 4.0GHz and CPU voltage was at 1.35v's, manually set in the BIOS and I let it run for a full hour to get the results shown.

I was always involved with AM3 stuff and got into alot of AM3+ stuff too. I've come a long way since those days..... Not sure how long I'll be at it and I have slowed down considerably over the past few years but I still crank out a few scores every so often. And yes, among the things I have to do on the list - I have to destroy Pio per his personal request so I'll be around for awhile yet.

You knew me as "Kryton" there but the name I've always tried to use is "Bones" which is of course my benching name. I do remember you from there, after "Whatever" happened over there it just lost it's.... Soul? I guess you could call it that, certainly isn't what it used to be by any means. I won't be in that often (I'm all over the place anyway) but will pop in on occasion.

Promise kept, just not with a more modern setup. Specs are: CPU: Opteron 175 on chilled water for this run Board: DFI SLI-DR RAM: Corsair PC4400 (CL2.5-4-4-8), ran at CL2-3-3-7 @239MHz All the rest you can see in the screenie.

The one I recapped for you? That bites man - Wish I had a PSU at the time for testing and still don't ATM for anything related to that socket I can use.