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Everything posted by tictoc
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Not sure if I'll make a thread, but heatsinks are prepped and installed for watercooling the memory on my new workstation/daily rig. Nothing spectacular on the RAM yet, due to the subpar Micron IC's and the temp issues I was running into. Current RAM clocks below. Overall speed/throughput is not bad so far, considering I only spent $700 for 192GB. Just working on tuning primary timings down from the JEDEC 6000 I started at as a baseline. Running at 6200mclk/2067fclk, which is where I hope to stay, after I get all the primaries and secondaries tuned down to their fastest stable timings. CMD rate is at 1T, need to tweak the script a bit more to parse out the correct CMD rate. A few pics on the bench, which is in a state of disarray. Too many projects and too little time. Currently everything on the bench is on air, so I won't really be able to dial everything in to max clocks until it goes under water. Running CPU at board/platform max PBO+CO for testing, but ultimately it will be running at a static OC. PBO+CO overclock would leave some performance on the table. due to the artificial max boost limit. CPU is always at >50% load, so a static OC will give the best overall performance.
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F77 #2 incoming. After using this board daily for the last 6+ weeks, I pulled the trigger on another one for the office.
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Confirmed fixed. Thanks E
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@J7SC_Orion Quote button seems to be broken, but I just picked up one of the best PSUs ever built for US $215. Super Flower must be clearing out new old stock. I got the PSU yesterday, and it is a legit brand new PSU. I think only the EVGA variety of this was originally available in the states. Super Flower Leadex Titanium 1600W. https://www.amazon.com/Titanium-Fanless-Modular-Bearing-SF-1600F14HT/dp/B00SKAV0UQ?th=1
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Thanks, the orange is a great shade. It actually looks better in person, than the pic I took. The blank blacks are PBT from Model F Labs, and the oranges are two piece PBT from Unicomp.
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I have a modified HHKB layout on the f77, so backspace is directly above the enter key, and the "PANIC" key is escape with backslash to the left of escape.
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F77 is now complete. I decided to go with the compact case instead of the original style case. Two big QOL changes from my last few daily drivers are USB instead of PS/2 and the fully programmable firmware. Those two things make it super simple to swap the board over to different systems.
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Thanks for the link. Looks like ASRock knocked it out of the park again. Mother nature intervened over the weekend with a fair bit of snow, and I was without power (except for the essentials on the generator) for a few days. Hoping to get the new system up and running over the next couple of days.
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Motherboard is an ASRock TRX50 WS. ASUS Threadripper X399 and sTRX40 boards were not good, with missing features, bad RAM support, poor ECC support, and lots of random bugs. Meanwhile, my 3 ASRock boards have been excellent, and that includes top notch support from ASRock. I haven't followed along on the TRX50 Sage, but the WRX90 Sage looks to be a bit of a dumpster fire. RAM is DDR5-5600 that I'll be pushing as high as it can reliably go. The per core performance upgrade from my 3960x is pretty huge. Even if it only lasts a single generation, I'd be pissed at getting burnt again, but I'd still be sitting pretty good for the next few years.
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7960x is going on the bench this weekend to get it dialed in and prepped to swap into my daily system. Looks like there is a fair bit of info in this thread regarding DDR5 tuning. This will be the first AMD DDR5 system that I've tuned, so we'll see how it goes with 192GB of DDR5 RDIMMs.
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This is especially true, with how good all seasons have gotten over the last 5-10 years. Additionally, you save some significant change, since typical all season treadware is at least double any good summer tire.
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I probably wouldn't drive on the Contis in temps much below freezing, but they aren't total hockey pucks at 35-45°F. I had a set of garbage 18" cast wheels that I was running in the winter, but this year I was finally able to find a set of 17" steelies that clear the Brembos with 1/4" spacers. Much nicer driving on the 17s with a bit more sidewall. Even better than the softer ride, is the fact that I don't have to constantly pull over to clear the snow and ice out of the wheels, to get rid of the death wobble at speeds over 45 mph.
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I ran a few sets of Pilot Sport 4S' from when they were released until last summer. I switched over to the Extreme Contact Sport 02 last summer, and I was pretty happy with them. Steering feel is a little dead at center, and can feel like a bit of understeer at initial turn in, but after that they are pretty responsive. I'll be running them again this year, as soon as I can swap out of my snow tires. Usually the summers can go on the first or second week of May. I'll probably be switching back to the 4S's next year because they run better in colder temperatures. Temps at my house frequently drop to at or below freezing all the way into late June, and start up again in mid-late August. @avacado I think you'll be pretty happy with the DWS's. I know a few people that have them, and if I was going to run no seasons they would probably be at the top of my list.
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EXTREMEHW April 2024 48-hour Foldathon Begins on 4-20, 00:00 UTC
tictoc replied to damric's topic in Folding@Home
In Q_Cruncher Out on prizes -
Do a split right shift and an ISO left shift (1.25u) cancel each other out, or does that just ramp up the untrustworthiness? Waiting on some caps for the Model F, and then it will be complete. Loving the board and layout, so I'll either be dampening and floss modding another one, or I'll have to go full custom for a matching board/layout for the office.
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** PSA ** Pro Tip - If you are doing any sort of an involved teardown/rebuild use a paint marker to track progress of nuts/bolts/connectors that have been final torqued, connected, etc and are complete. I nearly cost myself an engine in the STi due to a wee little bolt that backed out. Houston we have a problem. That's an interesting location for a bolt. The bolts for the timing belt guides should all have either a light weight thread locker or RTV (depending on location) to ensure that they do not back out from vibration. I am usually pretty thorough about tracking my progress during a build, but right at the end of putting this engine together I must have got in a hurry. Luckily before the bolt wedged itself between the tensioner and the guide, it broke off one of the teeth that the crank position sensor reads on the crank sprocket. That confused the hell out of the ECU, and timing and AFR was all over the place, with the ECU trying to compensate for the whacky readings it was getting from the crank sensor. That quickly threw a CEL (P0335), and after checking all the easy possibilities (loose and/or faulty electrical connections) I popped off the left side timing cover to verify that the timing belt hadn't jumped, and discovered the above. No telling how long the belt would have lasted before it let go, but it threw the CEL right before I got on the interstate, and I was able to swing into a parking lot to figure it out.
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I have been using the F77 for the last few days, and it is a joy to type on. Fit and finish is excellent. No firmware issues, and everything worked without a hitch after adjusting the springs on a few keys. This is going to be my new daily driver, replacing the TKL Filco and the Unicomp Mini M that I have been using for the last 5 years. The obvious major difference between this board and a traditional TKL is the lack of function keys. I went with the HHKB layout, so having the split right shift makes this basically a non-issue for me. My typical workflow doesn't make huge use of the function keys, so after a few days, I am mostly used to the lack of function keys. I will be converting the Left Shift to a split key and then reprogramming a few things, prior to ordering a new set of keycaps. I might swap out the traditional case for the ultra compact case. The ultra compact case is only a bit wider than my Filco TKL, so with the smaller case, I can keep the same neutral mouse position that I have grown accustomed to. I really like the look of the traditional case, so I'm not sure which one I'll ultimately use. I'm going to wait until I get the new keycaps, and then decide on which case to use.
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I got my new Model F77 in the mail today. A few quick pics and I'll post some more info once I get it up and running. I ordered the ultra compact case in addition to the traditional case, but I'll definitely be using the original style case. It is a beautiful tank, weighing in at just under 9 lbs. Last pic is just a comparison pic to my Unicomp Mini M.
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At my current pace, I'm about 22 years from hitting the million mile mark. I don't think I'll make it there, but 500k might be possible. The new short block does have me a little worried (not really), since it's the first EJ block I've had that doesn't consume oil as part of it's daily diet. The original block in this car would typically lose 1+ quarts every 3k miles, and every other one, consumed at least 1/2 quart between oil changes.
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I ordered the solenoid, but I will likely not use it. I also ordered both the original style and the ultra compact case. I'll post up my thoughts once I get the board.
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Not sure if anyone here would be interested, but about half of the the new Model F boards from Model F Labs are on sale. I snagged an F77, and I'll post up pics when it arrives. Shipping time also seems to be way down from what it was before. Some recent orders I know of have gotten their boards in a few weeks. https://www.modelfkeyboards.com/store/
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It's been a minute since I was on the forum. My daily is still going strong 33k miles on the new short block, and crossed 300k for the first time on any of my vehicles.
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Surefire makes really good gear, and does it right here in the USA. That's a great choice.
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Not sure what light you had, but the StreamLight TL-Racker is great if you have a Mossberg 500/590 or a Remington 870. https://www.streamlight.com/products/detail/tl-racker