Alex

All of those are just terrible for judging quality. 1) HDR only works on Chrome 2) YouTube demolishes the quality/bit-rate. What I do to 'wow' people who haven't experienced proper OLED before is use some of these videos: 4K Media | Free Ultra-HD / HDR / HLG / Dolby Vision 4K Video Demos & Samples 4KMEDIA.ORG Uncompressed 4K demos,4K samples, and 4K trailers, to show off your new ultra-HD (2160p) HDR/HLG/Dolby Vision television or monitor.

Ew. Microsoft's entire product lineup has been getting considerably worse since around 3-4 years ago.

You can definitely hear it's different, but it is a diesel after all

so can we see the before/after anyways?

Yeah, don't trust Igor...

I'm good with either to be honest, but voted square. I'm sure this isn't in your control, but I have noticed the compression is rather bad when uploading an avatar - that's my only annoyance.

I just don't really want to get into those long shipping delays, ended up getting a Keychron Q6 Pro + Kailh box jade + keychron keycaps because it was not going to take years to get anything. Also, funny I bought MX Blues as well because I was worried I wouldnt like the Kailh switches... but the MX Blues feel so plastic and inconsistent in comparison.

Try Kailh box jades - they're like Blues but better in every way.

Did you install / get the anti-squeal shims/brackets?

Neat! They fit me 95% well, and given the price I'm not looking for the other 5%. What I find shocking is they are the most comfortable seat I own - even more than my office chair lol. I guess my back/spine is weird. This is for my passenger side so I have a matching pair

So I meant to reply, but forgot. The MAF is very likely if you have one, MAFs kinda suck in terms of reliability. I'd avoid additives of any kind (except maybe fuel stabilizer if you *have* to use it) because you don't want to have issues like me lol. I don't think it's fuel additive, but something definitely slowly gunked up my entire fuel system so now replacing every, single, piece is a nightmare. After the MAF - I would pull the plugs to actually check if one bank is running rich or not - as pulling them is most of the effort, replace them (and use a proper tool and torque wrench... you don't want bits of spark plug in places they shouldn't be). After that it might be a precat going if you have an O2 sensor per precat? If you have only a single O2 (ie; no primary/secondary) then it's unlikely.... after that... how does your oil look?

I have the HP+ pads. They don't really dust at all - my rotors do though lol. The pads do require a bit of warm-up and that can surprise you if you aren't aware about it in low temp conditions. edit - actually not sure if my rotors are dusting or the pads. I assume the rotors because they're really old and need replacing - but could be the pads too. Either way, I dont think you can go wrong with stoptech, hawk, project mu, or whatnot at this pricepoint. For what it's worth - stoptech got sold to a Chinese company rather recently and is moving their production to China - so expect a drop in quality. It's enough to make me avoid their BBK and I'm going to go with Wilwood or AP Racing instead.

I just want the Koyo one with the Koyo rad, I know it's all the same but I just want as little issues as possible.

Summing up some parts that I need to get around to installing over winter. Going to be fun doing a coolant flush in like -10c.

106k km. It's not an issue (yet) but it's near to being one, I think it's not really the KM but rather the age of the components that are showing.

Need to replace my fuel filter, fuel pump, injectors, wiring to all of them as well as radiator.... good thing it's been put away for the winter

Nice That lasted longer than I thought

Yeah insurance is turning into more of a scam world-wide. What's funny is it's usually better in third world countries where it's often needed more.

Metro Exodus has been probably one of my favourite implementations of Path/Ray Tracing so far.

Are these at all accurate? I've always wanted to grab one for curiosity's sake... but I feel like a FLIR device will be more informative.

Nothing really, the soft tubing helps of course but the whole thing is an enclosed block. There is zero flex because of the waterblock design but obviously as you can see it is tilted slightly down. Doesn't really bother me though. External cooling is a huge bonus IMO. Makes the inside of the case cleaner, easier and honestly the whole thing was MUCH less of a hassle to put together. It's not like my desktop moves around tons anyway, and having QDCs on the external loop makes it as easy as unplugging a cable. In the future I want to get an L-shaped desk (currently have the IKEA Alex+Karlby combo, want to get another Karlby counter-top and create an L shape from it). In where the two desks join I was thinking of making a "cool box". Essentially some spray-painted black or white plywood to house as much watercooling components as I can. The idea is to try fit at least 2x MORA420s with their own pumps and a single res in the middle. Then have an HVAC filter for an intake to try eliminate dust build-up... only worry is static pressure but that's for when I actually build it

Congrats everyone, awesome prizes this time round! Next F@H I need to make sure that my 4090 doesn't lapse. Also looking forward to F@H in winter to help out with the heating.

I'll lump into this because I've had some interesting things with my 4090. I have the Strix OC model and honestly just run it stock all the time. That combined with my 360 + MORA420 is enough to keep it comfortably around 40-45c under any stress test with the hotspot temp being around 5-7c higher than that. That being said, if I max my pump out to 100% from 60% I go down to 37-38c. So I definitely think these modern, denser-finned coldplates are a lot more restrictive. (I have a 7950X3D in the same loop as the 4090, both with Heatkiller Pro blocks on them). In the future I want to move my pump/res external so I can get it away from my head and turn up the speed while not being able to hear that awful coilwhine. For what it's worth, I also have the Cablemod cable - but I removed their shield thing as I found it made it harder to verify if the connector was 100% seated.

Totally didn't forget to restart my folding client after playing VR for a bit