Alastair

Ok this really is the end of the road now I promise. Its stable enough that I can daily this in my gaming rig.

So after tweaking and tinkering and a lot of trial and error for most of this week and the entire weekend. I must say I am rather disappointed with my results. After managing to boot 3800MHz I REALLY thought I might have a chance at stabilizing 3800. But it turns out I can't even get this memory to stabilise at 3666. What can I expect from C-Die I suppose. I went the route of tightening up my secondaries and tertiaries. I couldn't even get my primaries to budge. In the end I managed to improve my time in Dram Calculators Membench easy preset from 143 seconds down to 128 seconds. Geek3 memory score from about 5500/6700 to 5900/6900. Not much improvement in AIDA. I am sitting here and seriously considering selling these sticks and buying some OEM B-die kits. Just to see if I can get lucky on some cheap OEM ram.

Oh yes I agree with you. I was pretty shocked when I heard they were basically dropping everything from Fiji right the way through. It was pretty insane. I think Terascale had longer driver support than GCN 1-3.

Yes I have verified this. When I set 1.35V in BIOS I GET around 1.38V as reported by software and SLIGHTLY higher than that according to my DMM. At 1.38v GET my XMP (3600cl18) isn't even stable. At 1.33V SET (1.35V GET) xmp is stable and with it I am currently sitting at a very unstable 3800 cl18 that I now need to figure out how to stabilize. My first step is I am going to try increasing procODT. And then I will try decreasing the drive strength values (lower resistance as I understand it) Hopefully I might find stability.

I also have a thread on hardwareluxx as that seems to be the most definitive thread on C die accross the interwebs. There are a lot of good results. And people getting great results. But no real guidance on what various settings do and how various setting correlate to one another. If I can get 3800 cl18 stable I will be really happy! Because it would mean around 54GB/s to 55GB/s and 65ns which I will be really chuffed. Not B-die speeds but still respectable for RYZEN

I have managed to get 3800 18-21-21-21-44 2T to boot into windows! Now any ideas how to stabilise it? Samsung C-die doesn't respond to voltage. And at 1.35ish I am already at the point where C-die starts to negatively scale. I have a wad of options in my BIOS ands have no real clue where to start. Any ideas? I don't know what various RTT, and CAD bus settings do. What do I do with procODT. I am busy reading the c-die thread on Hardwareluxx but I still don't have much clue on what I am doing once I have primaries down. I have only ever bothered with primaries in my ddr3 days I never played with the secondary stuff.

Well in all my years between amd and nvidia. Rankine's, Currie's, Tesla's in various G80 and GT200 flavours, Kepler's and Maxwells, Evergreen's, Northern Islands, Pirate Islands and vega's. I've never had an AMD driver kill a card. I can confidently say that between my years of experience with both teams. Although during my G80 days I was still in school and was getting my driver updates off of DVD's that my local computer magazine (PC Format) had on their disks. So I probably missed 196.75. I also did not own a Kepler during 320.18 so I missed that one as well. But boy did OCN blow up when 320.18 came out I remember that.

That was a long long time ago. These days it almost always just works.

Remember the dreaded 320.18? Bricking Kepler based 780s and titans? Damn.

As far as I know you can save application specific OC profiles. Go to global graphics and then you see all your installed applications. Select a game or application you want to tune and click on it. You can se all the graphical settings you can adjust for the app. There will be a wrench with the option "tune game performance". That will allow you yo adjust the clocks on a per profile basis I think.

I'm sure you can find a way to fake a death and a burial.

Hey look on the bright side. at least you have a source of farm fresh bacon and pork right at hand.

A little more tweaking gets me to 3733MHz at 18-21-21-21-36 2T

I have been messing around with my memory the past few days. I have 32GB Avexir 3600 cl18 memory. 4x 8GB sticks. They are Samsung C-Dies and are pretty underwhelming to work with. Can't crank the voltages unfortunately as they just fall over. So all I have is 1.35v to work with. I tested 1CR and 2CR AT 3600/1800 with my stock xmp settings and saw NO improvement which I was pretty disappointed by that. I figured going to a 1CR I would see at least a bit of a latency improvement. I have managed to get to 3733MHz with an fCLK of 1866MHz. I had to drop the primaries down to 19-21-21-44 2T. I did at least manage to break even on latency. I was getting ~69-70ns at XMP and am managing about the same but with at least a bit of an improvement in bandwidth. I also tried going down to 3200 and trying to tighten the sticks a bit. I could do 16-18-18 which is very common for c-die 3200 kits. I couldn't get cas15 to boot. So any suggestions as where to from here? The thing that I get PARTICULARLY lost on are the secondaries and tertiaries. Stock xmp (Actually 2CR as GDM enabled) Stock XMP 1CR GDM Disabled.

Looks like a sweet little machine. I love budget builds. Just something about squeezing every penny

180 watts was just for suicide runs. That was the 3800X at 4.5GHz across all cores at 1.525v. That was an aVX workload. Daily driving with my OC it hovers in the 120w range.

I had a quick oogle about the Google. And it is only for asus boards. But won't help me much as it wouldn't work with the EDC=1 bug. And from what I can gather doesn't increase performance by as much of a margin. I don't seem to see anything similar for gigabyte boards. I wish zen 2 owners got the curve optimiser in a microcode update.

Could you provide any more information? I'd be very interested investigating this avenue to see if there is anything similar for Aorus mobos. Yeah. My cpu and block are already lapped. I'm using Coolermaster Master gel Maker Nano (gosh what a mouthful Coolermaster and their masters) paste which is = to kryonaut. I've still got some conductonaut LM. Maybe at my next rebuild I'll seal around the package so that nothing leaks out and switch to LM. I don't know what else to do to improve thermals. I think we are talking about different things. But I am using the EDC bug.

fMax? Is it like the PBO Offset? Where you can add 200mhz to the PBO offset so the CPU could if it was a perfect world boost 200MHz above the stock max boost? If so then yes. I run un undervolt of 0.05v for my PBO oc. Scores and "effective clocks" scale up until there and start to drop off after after -0.05625v. I achieved the all core results with a static 4.5GHz but that required a whopping 1.525v which was taking me to 180w power and a BLISTERING 90C on water. I am seriously trying to think of ways to improve my thermal performance as much as I can with my current block. I am wondering if taking the dremel out and attempting my own "micro fins" into the block is a good idea. (probably not)

I know its not CPU-z but pushing some scores in cinebench too. Trying to compete in the HWBOT Div2 challenge. I managed to get the fastest 3800x in 1T for R23 @ 1373 5th place 3800x R23 @ 14117 And 2386 R15. I was trying so hard to hit 2412 so that I could take 17th in stage 2

Yeah so maybe 100 bucks isn't all that bad for some more mhz. I'd have to pay alot more for a cpu upgrade anyway... Besides. If I can reuse an optimus block like I have been able to on my Raystorm (gosh this thing must 9 years old by now) it wouldn't be a bad investment.

I would love to get my hands on one of those Optimus blocks. They look great. They really do. But I won't. Firstly I don't think they would ship to the @ss end of Africa. Hardly anyone does these days. And secondly. I would be spending over 100USD for maybe 5c-10c and possibly 50mhz-100mhz more boost clocks. (although admittedly 100usd these days wont get you as much in the pc space as what 100 got you three years ago)

There is nothing wrong with my airflow. I've checked how air flow through the system with a smoke machine. Its been set up with this for gosh darn about 8 years now. The only thing that changed was the fans themselves over the years. It is as follows: 200mm CM Force 200 front intake 4x140mm Intake Push/pull on rad Corsair ML140s bottom 280 radiator. 6x 120mm exhaust Push Pull Noiseblocker Eloop B12-4's on Top 360 radiator. 1x ML140 rear exhaust. with my smoke machine I am just on the bit on the positive pressure side of things. the 360 rad is fairly dense while the 280 isn't. So essentially: The bottom 280 rad is an intake. (plenty of space at the bottom of the case they aren't choked) 200mm is front intake. 360mm top rad is exhausting 140mm rear is exhausting. How much airflow do you want? Me: Yes To give you an idea, pulling full cpu load and GPU load. Im pulling around 750 out the wall. Probably 650 to the components that matter. Vega 64 with OC is doing about 450w total board power. GPU Temps 32c core (7c-8c over ambient) / 42C HBM/ 55-65C hotspot CPU temps 65C - 70C (40-45C over ambient)

I wonder what the B-die of the DDR5 generation will be.

How much of a difference would a better block make though? Are we talking 5c over my Mesozoic Era XSPC Raystorm original. Or are we just talking about a degree or two here? I can't even remember how much of a difference Der8aur's bracket made. Cause I am thinking about getting that too. Currently in a heavy all core workload. Like Cinebench or Blender or something like that. At my present OC settings (PBO, 10X, +200MHz, EDC=1, -0.05v) at 4.4GHz boost across 16Threads I see. 65-70C. Or more accurately around 40C-45C delta over ambient. I can't see it improving much.