PCSarge

good thing i bought a 5700XT just before the chip shortage. on another note i sold my old RX480 w/ waterblock installed to a guy in my building for $800, so i lost no money there

i'm running an ASUS B550-I ROG Strix the M.2_1 slot (gen 4) has a sabrent rocket 500GB SSD in it with windows installed, but it wont boot from that drive. the M.2_2 slot has an old WD blue SATA SSD in it, that somehow ended up being the UEFI windows boot manager, but contains no windows install what so ever? its literally a downloads and documents storage drive why this is very STRANGE TO ME is when i installed windows 10, the only drive connected to my motherboard was the sabrent rocket in M.2_1 is there a possible way to fix this without reinstalling windows? i've tried disabling the WD and booting to the sabrent drive, and it just says no bootable drive.

we hired zodac now o.o god save me lol

as the title says, i need to know the best possible way, i'm doing a full loop disassembly and block cleaning tommorow evening, i have a fillport and holesaws here with a drill. the thing i need to know is the best way to mark where the reservoir port is on the panel, and if it will really be worth it to drill out the rivets and diassemble my NZXT H210i to drill it from the underside of the panel? Things i have to do the job: Bi-metal holesaw kit ranging from 1 inch (most likely size) to 2 inch. A Drill, Obviously. Painters tape so i dont scratch the white paint off the panel when drilling. the physical white bitspower fillport itself. Things i may need to purchase that i can think of : Hand rivet gun and rivets. A set of small metal files. Things i dont know about this case : Rivet size for replacement rivets. Any help from anyone in the community who is farmiliar with this task would be appreciated, this is my first time doing this in all the years ive watercooled. Normally, my filling proceedure Consists of Removing a plug and shoving a tube with a fitting on the end on and filling with a funnel, but i dont have enough clearance for that, and my current solution backflows if i dont plug it quickly enough.

those two lines stand out as hilarious and ironic at the same time.

your less pleb than us. hell i was on OCN for 11 years and was still treated like a peon

? guess im not a good topic starter........

@BWGhow many T.Vs in your house did he install for you to know such things? he must be a building pioneer, not a stereo pioneer!

i have 4 different dead ATI 5770s on my wall in a display case. each with a death date from F@H

full 80s nostalgia, but i love the beat . thier whole endless summer album is something magical honestly.

so in the space i want to mount my TV, is the top edge of an electrical panel, i know better tha to drill above a panel unless id like to send myself to the hospital. what i need is a TV wall mount that will span the top of that panel and mount on either side. the panel itself is 15 1/2 inches wide. i want to be on the ouside of either side of it. all i continue to find are wall mounts with tiny square or rectangle brackets that wont do the job. please help me out guys, ive literally had my tv in the closet with a sheet over it for 2 months with no luck.

i cant post my last purchase, as it is what im taking pictures with Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra EDIT: i lied i bought one other thing more recently, as in 2 days ago Logitech G703 Lightspeed

somehow, some way. im never involved in these things. lol

he has a sniper scope on an AK. blasphema

now to wait for ASUS

-stomps into the room,slams a picture on the desk and promptly stomps out-

banned because you think jayz2cents knows how to overclock without breaking things

ban because its not christmas anymore, and youve been smoking that cigarette for over 10 years, should have a 2nd degree burn on your face by now and banned because rolf said so :

its gone from a practical "hobby" to just "a hobby" those of us who really like it wont let it die

i havent air cooled since first gen i5, so air cooler wise i dont know how good the mounting pressure is on that thing. you may want to mount that AIO up. it will help you with more thermal mass for long load stability, and possibly more consistent mounting pressure. my 3600 only really wanted to stay completely under contol at 4250mhz. if i went to 4.3 or above the voltage jump was reduculous. i used to have this 3900XT on an all day 4.4, but i wasnt using it enough, so i threw PBO back on and undervolted to 1.15v and left it. Ryzen is much more finnicky overclocking and more time consuming. i suggest downloading ryzen master, leave the CPU at default with pbo on and everything. and run the ryzen master stress test, it wil ldetermine which cores are weaker, and you can overclock on a per core basis from within windows. beware as it does apply settings to bios if you hit apply.

ill stick my nose in here, as i started with a 3600 and moved to a 3900XT that 3600, no matter how hard you slam it, will hit a clock wall at 4.4ghz unless you LN2 and voltage the snot out of it...... if you want a non high temp OC. PBO needs to be disabled, and that sounds like a possible bad cooler mount(pressure wise, not you wise). also, drop a straight edge on that IHS. some ryzen chips have been known to be a little convex on the IHS. my 3900XT running that speed with more heat output doesnt even come close to 80C. nvm 95C.

banned because its DJANGO not JANCO

oh you will.....alot of us have learned things by trial and error to pass on...... for example. i learned an i5-750 can make it to 6GHZ and boot and submit a score in windows. i also learned that 1.8V blows the power delivery clean through the motherboard and makes a hole at the same time......

i dearly miss OCN's LN2 benching events