Storm-Chaser

So I am up and running! I didn't come through this unscathed, however. Looks like one of my memory modules, which was closest to the leak, has a problem. I discovered this because none of my OC profiles would load correctly (and they all have OCd memory clocks). They would always fail on the re-boot. So I set defaults and found that module wont go XMP anymore. It only works on stock non XMP settings. Luckfully, I just bought an identical kit of Patriot Viper Steel 4133Mhz (8GB x 2) so I can swap that in place of the failing memory module. I don't think the slot is bad, I think it's the memory module itself. Will report back with results.

Good news! Went down this morning to give it one more chance to come alive and it did! After trying and failing to get it to post for the first 20 minutes I had just one more card to play b4 I was going to pull the motherboard. The trick was I had to hold down the power button while flipping the power switch on the PSU to on. It immediately sprang back to life. I don't know why this worked, there are no recommendations to do this online, I just thought I would do it since every other combination attempting to get it running had failed up until that point. Running stock settings for now to make sure everything is going to operate like it should. Then I will ramp it back up when the time comes for the next competition

Its actually still under warranty so Im hoping MSI will replace it for me free of charge, we shall see. If they don't, I will just buy a used z390 ACE on eBay. Again I'm not overly concerned about it because if I do need a new motherboard I will be able to do some cable and loop management / wire routing to make it look better. No it was powered off and the switch on the PSU was off. So I took a hair dryer to it as well but apparently that didnt help either. Going to do some more troubleshooting today but it doesn't look good for this board But it's not that big of a problem. I have an HP z820 on the way for another overclocking project. I'm running the Xeon 1680 v2 CPU, which has an unlocked multi. But yeah, going to get the same motherboard since it's worked very well for this project not to mention I know it inside and out

Well gentlemen it looks like I have some bad news. I bricked my MSI MEG z390 ACE while working on my cooling system. I had the second reservoir out for repair and I was putting it back into the loop today. Well, it looks like as I rotated the computer, one of the coolant lines started dripping onto the corner of the motherboard. I let it sit for a couple hours in hopes to would dry out, but thats a negative. I don't get any boot codes, it doesn't even turn on, even though the power button on the motherboard itself is illuminated. This is actually not really a bad thing, however, because this particular board has a bad primary PCIe slot, so I'm just going to find a used one in working condition and swap it out since this motherboard has served me very well and allowed me to reach 5.8GHz with this chip.

I was curious about that. I would really love to bring the chiller back online if I could see gains like this. But u are saying this is a problem? About how far is it good down to?

Warning: 20 questions below. lol I should probably get some fun tack or something similar. But in all seriousness, Im assuming you put a layer over the area around the CPU. Why? because it's unruly when you apply to the CPU? Will it short out the motherboard? And do you have to leave it that way? How much LM are you guys applying to the CPU?

Do we have any delidding pros here? I'd like someone to do this for me if possible.

In that case, I'd like to have my 9600KF delidded for bare die cooling. My heatkiller is also ported. There is 90* turn, just inside the waterblock itself. So I drilled and machined and removed that bottleneck. However, I would not do this unless you have more than one pump. Because of drilling that out, I get substantially better flow rates but I lose the 90* route that hits all the fins. So I just have to hammer it with good flow rate.

Damn I wish I had found this stuff earlier in my overclocking career. Never going back to thermal paste, that's for sure. I do have a copper water block but the research reveals the liquid metal will in fact do okay with a copper water block. While they do react, you will only get a discoloration on the copper base plate itself, and it does not compromise performance in any way. This is according to a study done by Gamers Nexus. Getting a new water block next month anyway.

Just applied the new liquid metal to my 9600KF rig. Insane temp improvements. I shaved 25*F off peak temps with the fans on idle. And 30*F with all the fans running full throttle. Can this really be true? Anyone else getting results like this? Just crazy I've never seen gains like this.

@Mr. Fox Good call on the MSI motherboard.

So the chiller is back on. Tried to go for 5722MHz in the middle of the night after getting everything squared away and it crashed half way through the bench. Im going to blame less than ideal temps but we should have a cold snap later in the week. If I can get it down to 0*F I think I might have a fighting chance.

Updates, slo mo first

I think there is still a good chance the CPU is okay. What kind of voltage were you pushing through it at 5.7GHz? IIRC I needed 1.56-1.61 volts. 24 is OEM pre-memory initialization code. The OEM pre-memory initialization codes means the CPU is trying to make sense of what sticks of ram are on the motherboard. Or that you are successfully booted into windows. RE Strix: try another GPU or swap current GPU to another PCIe slot on the motherboard. Maybe Im an eternal optimist, but it's possible you have two different problems here that are very closely associated with what happens when a CPU dies. Try putting it back in the original z490 and then see if you can remote into it, if you have RDP enabled. If you dont have that capability with this rig, run advanced IP scanner to find it's IP address on the network and then try to ping it. If you can ping that you know the system is up and running you are just getting no video signal. You could also start pulling memory to see if single channel posts seeing how code 24 may be related to memory.

I bet your old phase change cooler would work really well on my 9600KF rig lol at 5.2ghz I'm putting out about 130w tdp normal and under avx instructions that jumps to 165 w iirc. I'm really annoyed at my computer right now. Took FOREVER to bleed the system because I just changed the coolant in preparation for this chilling session, but I won't have a score for you guys until tomorrow or early next week due to a couple additional snags that prevented me from getting it online earlier this afternoon.

So with a setup like this it appears the chiller is being chilled? I like the idea, in fact this theory is partially implemented in a very basic way with my chiller setup. I have the liquid to liquid 60 plate heat exchanger sitting in 5 gallons of super cooled methanol. I utilize the cold weather and the super cooled methanol to hit the plate heat exchanger from all sides, not just the cold side, so even though I'm still technically "ambient" I get very good Delta T since it's liquid to liquid.

NICE. You leave me no choice but to put the chiller back on, can't let this go unchecked, but I'll admit right now it's going to be very difficult to beat. Pros: I have a new waterblock Cons: It's a $14.99 water block

Give me a couple days and I'll update the leaderboard. Loving the old hardware submissions!

Seems like you have a pretty good tune going on with this system. Looks great!

Very good thread guys you've been generous with your knowledge, I like that (most people are not). I'm going to budget about $500 for this project next month. Will keep you updated. Excited to build it myself and get to reap the fruits of my labor by keeping the neighbors up all night. BOOM! The z5300 subwoofer is actually bad, once you turn the volume up it just goes off the deep end with distortion. So I'm going to take it to the table saw and dismantle it. See if I can salvage it by replacing just the speaker, or at least get the theory down as to it's inner workings so I can design my own later.

Question for you guys. I have two other satellite Logitech speakers I want to repurpose for the Z5300 system. The original satellite speakers are blown. So that would allow me to connect 9 total satellite speakers for this system. Both of these speakers have had the RCA ends clipped but the speakers themselves work fine. Is it possible re-wire a new RCA end on both? Is it fairly straight forward, like a two wire connection or is there some PITA thing I have to do to re-attach the ends?

Well that was a total waste. Should have done the research first and I would have realized this CPU only supports dual channel memory. arrrg EDIT: Anyone want to buy a like new Patriot viper steel 16GB memory kit? Ill throw in a member discount. Please PM me.

The memory arrived early so I can install it right now. And yes I agree it's pretty good stuff. I've had my original 16GB kit up to 4733MHz during cold weather benching. Wondering how a full quad core memory kit is going to affect my memory latency. Guess we will found out soon enough. I cant run these settings in normal ambient temp, however.

How bad is this clipping problem for my speakers? I notice peace equalizer has an option to prevent clipping, so that seems to be effective for the time being. What is the major concern with clipping and is it the same thing as distortion/rattle from a subwoofer resulting from too much volume?