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The Mechanical Keyboards Club


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Hey @Fluxmaven@Supercrumpet

 

Is this keyboard compatible with Kailh Box switches? It says 3 pin or 5 pin but Kailh or Gaterons have 2 pins...

 

 

Looking at the photos with the switch slot exposed, it looks like there's a big hole on the right bottom of it...

 

I want to do a blue themed keyboard but don't want to spend like $175 on a Keychron K8 Pro that's blue. Last I looked the normal aluminum black Keychron was $120~ which is what I paid for mine, but any of the colored ones were like $175 or more and I have no idea why paint is that expensive.

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14 minutes ago, neurotix said:

Hey @Fluxmaven@Supercrumpet

 

Is this keyboard compatible with Kailh Box switches? It says 3 pin or 5 pin but Kailh or Gaterons have 2 pins...

 

 

Looking at the photos with the switch slot exposed, it looks like there's a big hole on the right bottom of it...

 

I want to do a blue themed keyboard but don't want to spend like $175 on a Keychron K8 Pro that's blue. Last I looked the normal aluminum black Keychron was $120~ which is what I paid for mine, but any of the colored ones were like $175 or more and I have no idea why paint is that expensive

 

All switches have 2 signal pins. The 3 pin and 5 pin is referring to the physical pins that stabilize the switch. So in a 3 pin it just has the center stabilizer pin. On a 5 pin it adds two additional stabilizing pins. In the past I've used flush cutters to snip off the extra pins to make a 5 pin switch fit a board that only supported 3 pin. 

61kURKmWOvL.thumb.jpg.0cd9995980663a1f7f2e186105b7939a.jpg

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So that board should work with Box switches? Also thanks for the diagram and explanation.

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Ended up picking up that YUNZII board because we are doing a Cinnamaroll themed keyboard with Cinnamaroll keycaps. Also a pink plastic dust cover for it. My fiancee's Macaron themed numpad I built for her last year is also YUNZII and is good quality and has lasted. It was a Cyber Monday deal and we saved around $40 on the YUNZII blue board + dust cover.

 

My fiancee will be the primary user so we'll figure out what switches she wants. I might use thd board itself stock for a while before swapping switches and doing O-Rings and keycaps. It comes with Gateron Pro Yellow switches which I think are tactile? They were the stock switches in the Mini Cat 64 I built for her last year and I tried them out and actually thought they felt pretty good, but we both prefer clicky switches so I'll let her decide what switches she wants in it (We have boards with box pink, box white, box jade and box navy so she's going to have to choose from those.)

Edited by neurotix

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Yikes, has it really been that long since I've checked in? Updated the spreadsheet, looks like I have some image links to update as well.

 

On 13/08/2023 at 01:18, Fluxmaven said:

So I got a 110 pack of Cherry MX Clears on clearance for $15 at Microcenter. This sparked the decision to do another "budget" keyboard. I have been enjoying the Portico75 build that I've been using on my bedroom setup and figured I'd build something similar. I actually ended up just picking up an open box barebones Redragon K649 Pro for $40. So far so good, got a nice 75% board with hotswap and Bluetooth and I'm only in it $55... I then proceed to spend 3X that on keycaps 😂

 

The keyset I picked up from Drop (IDK why they changed their name from Massdrop). For now I'm running the biip MT3 Extended 2048 standard alphas and modifiers. I also ordered the colored accent modifiers and a separate set of Caps for Causes: MT3 NoveltyCats. When the cat caps show up I'll sprinkle those in in place of some of the function keys and swap to the colored modifiers.

 

The black housing Cherry switches don't let much light through so I did use C³Equalz X TKC Dragon Fruit switches for the function row to let more RGB get through. If I ever get REALLY bored I might pull the clears and rebuild them to be more RGB friendly. I have a bunch of Kailh speed silvers with milk bottoms and clear tops that I'll never use because I still hate linears. Could sacrifice those and lube the MX clear stems while I'm at it... Or just spend more money and buy a different switch entirely lol. 

image.thumb.jpeg.967a01715f7bb85b62682ee136ef38ac.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.786c4e622e3c2ab8a95d3639e8d65d9b.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.5a9cc41a6c49dd21a243256a0cf098e1.jpeg

 

Looks great! I always found transparent cases interesting. When are the new caps expected to show up?

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8 minutes ago, Supercrumpet said:

Yikes, has it really been that long since I've checked in? Updated the spreadsheet, looks like I have some image links to update as well.

 

 

Looks great! I always found transparent cases interesting. When are the new caps expected to show up?

Thanks. I actually forgot I ordered the colored mods 😂 Went to check my emails for the order info and came across this gem from a week ago

Screenshot_20231127_130545_YahooMail.thumb.jpg.9e4a9e543d78c4177c2b0f14cae3a6ec.jpg

So yay another delayed group buy.

Still not as bad as the RAMA Kara seq 2 stuff I ordered 2 years ago that are just now scheduled ETA of May. This type of BS is why I drifted away from building mechs. Pay hundreds of dollars to wait forever for stuff. Especially nowadays where I can buy boards off the shelf that have most of the unique features or form factors that used to be exclusive to custom boards.

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1 minute ago, Fluxmaven said:

Thanks. I actually forgot I ordered the colored mods 😂 Went to check my emails for the order info and came across this gem from a week ago

Screenshot_20231127_130545_YahooMail.thumb.jpg.9e4a9e543d78c4177c2b0f14cae3a6ec.jpg

So yay another delayed group buy.

Still not as bad as the RAMA Kara seq 2 stuff I ordered 2 years ago that are just now scheduled ETA of May. This type of BS is why I drifted away from building mechs. Pay hundreds of dollars to wait forever for stuff. Especially nowadays where I can buy boards off the shelf that have most of the unique features or form factors that used to be exclusive to custom boards.

 

Dang, that's the way it goes though sometimes. But I agree for sure, I understand why, but the shipping time for the price is pretty off-putting for me as well. I ordered probably 3 keycap sets that way and I'm not really planning on doing it again. Really trying to hold off on spending too much more on keyboard for a little while haha. Developed a few new money pits since.

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Either of you know if Gateron yellow pro switches are tactile or linear? When I did the Mini Cat 64 I built last year I tried them and thought they were nice despite not being clicky. They seemed like tactile (like browns) but I want to confirm that.

 

EDIT: nvm. Looked it up. Gat Yellows are 50g linear. No thanks.

Edited by neurotix

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On 27/11/2023 at 14:34, neurotix said:

Either of you know if Gateron yellow pro switches are tactile or linear? When I did the Mini Cat 64 I built last year I tried them and thought they were nice despite not being clicky. They seemed like tactile (like browns) but I want to confirm that.

 

EDIT: nvm. Looked it up. Gat Yellows are 50g linear. No thanks.

 

"No thanks" to linear is the correct take lol. I like tactile and clicky pretty equally but I've never tried a linear board/switch that I liked. Just feels like something is missing with every keystroke.

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I've always disliked linear switches. I recently tried some newer options and results are in... They still suck 😂

Spoiler

image.thumb.png.d70ef4b6a2789c3d750e386c04e4178b.png

 

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We went with Box Pale Blue for the Cinnamaroll themed build I'm doing soon that will mostly be used by my wife.

 

Also, so many introduction guides to the hobby say "MX Reds are the best for gaming" and then soooo many people just stick to red switches afterwards because of that. It's the industries fault, when they could be recommending something else with a low travel distance and low actuation force instead.

Edited by neurotix

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@Fluxmavenhave you or anyone else ever used this site before? Are they reputable? We already ordered 110 pc Box Pale Blue for $63, I hope the wait time isn't long or they aren't counterfeit or something.

 

WWW.SWITCHCAPTAIN.COM

Kaihl BOX Heavy Pale Blue clicky switch have a heavy spring, are IP56 waterproof, and are MX compatible.

 

Edited by neurotix

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MX Reds are the most disgusting thing I've ever touched.

 

I have not used that site before. Looks fine though. 

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1 hour ago, Fluxmaven said:

MX Reds are the most disgusting thing I've ever touched.

 

I have not used that site before. Looks fine though. 

I like MX Reds :angry_angry:

 

What I don't like are MX Blues that are loud just to be loud.

 

I'd be willing to try a non-linear switch again, but I don't want loud clicky nonsense.

Edited by Sir Beregond
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14 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

I like MX Reds :angry_angry:

 

What I don't like are MX Blues that are loud just to be loud.

 

I'd be willing to try a non-linear switch again, but I don't want loud clicky nonsense.

 

ok well you're not getting a Christmas card this year 

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16 hours ago, The Pook said:

 

ok well you're not getting a Christmas card this year 

So I watercool for quieter computing as one thing. Why would I then want a loud ass keyboard?

 

That said I might try some MX Browns

Edited by Sir Beregond
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1 hour ago, Sir Beregond said:

So I watercool for quieter computing as one thing. Why would I then want a loud ass keyboard?

 

That said I might try some MX Browns

Gateron Browns are really good too and some people say they are better than Cherry MX Browns. My custom GMMK came with them and they're pretty nice.

 

The reason I like clicky or tactile switches is you can actually feel when the switch actuates, with Browns you feel the tactile bump and then don't have to press the keycap all the way down to register an input. The keycap won't bottom out. With tactile, you get it by feel. With clicky switches you get it by feel and by sound. With linears it's like hard to tell when the switch actuates because there's no feedback.

 

On my favorite board, the modded E-element Z-88 with Kailh Box White, the actuation force is only 35g so I can type with a light touch and not push the keys all the way, which speeds me up a bit.

 

These are my reasons for liking clicky switches, the feedback from the bump via touch and the click being audio feedback. Dunno if others here agree or not but that's my reason.

Edited by neurotix
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Browns are just scratchy reds... Barely tactile. 

 

I do have a board with lubed Gateron Browns that's super smooth and quiet that feels nice, but it's too light for me. I'd agree that Gateron versions of all the common switches are better than the legit Cherry counterparts. 

 

I like heavy tactile and/or clicky switches. My favorite boards to type on currently have Glorious Pandas, BOX Royal, BOX Navy, and Topre. It's fun to bust out the old Model M with buckling springs from time to time as well. There is a point where you get too much of a good thing lol. I have a meme board with 150G springs in some Gateron Greens 😂

 

 

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22 minutes ago, Fluxmaven said:

Browns are just scratchy reds... Barely tactile. 

 

I do have a board with lubed Gateron Browns that's super smooth and quiet that feels nice, but it's too light for me. I'd agree that Gateron versions of all the common switches are better than the legit Cherry counterparts. 

 

I like heavy tactile and/or clicky switches. My favorite boards to type on currently have Glorious Pandas, BOX Royal, BOX Navy, and Topre. It's fun to bust out the old Model M with buckling springs from time to time as well. There is a point where you get too much of a good thing lol. I have a meme board with 150G springs in some Gateron Greens 😂

 

 

 

Jesus at the Gateron Greens and the actuation force. That's crazy.

 

My GMMK has Kailh Box Jades in it permanently, but it came with Gateron Browns and I'd agree on the points you made about them. They feel really smooth but need a tighter spring. They are still better than MX Browns.

 

Getting Gat Browns vs MX Browns really depends on whether Sir B wants a prebuilt board or a custom one. There are plenty of prebuilt boards on Amazon that are cheap Chinese ones with Gateron Browns, but the quality of them is lowish and they will probably need o-rings or you get a metal clang when you bottom out the switch. If he gets a more expensive brand name keyboard it will probably have MX Browns and be a higher quality board.

Edited by neurotix

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I am also open to trying something that is tactile with a higher actuation, but just no clicking. 

 

I only referred to MX Brown because I know MX switches. I don't know all these newer ones that are out there.

 

As for prebuilt vs build your own, no idea. I like keyboards with wrist rests. Tried a GMMK once since Micro Center here sells then and the thing was very much defective with hot garbage for software. Turned me off to them.

Edited by Sir Beregond
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Sir B, this one is very high quality and has Gateron Browns. I have a Keychron K8 Pro Aluminum Tenkeyless. The thing is packed with more than one layer of sound dampening foam and probably doesn't need o-rings on the keycaps.

 

 

Also if you are looking for cheaper the Keychron TKLs and other layouts are pretty cheap on Amazon right now and come with Gateron Browns. They're $60-80 atm.

Edited by neurotix

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Thanks. Will take a look.

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5 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

That said I might try some MX Browns

 

Outemu switches are usually in dog * cheap mech keyboards so they get a bad rep, but IMO Outemu Blue/Brown > MX Blue/Brown. 

 

5 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

So I watercool for quieter computing as one thing. Why would I then want a loud ass keyboard?

 

aNEBAxc.png

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3 hours ago, The Pook said:

 

Outemu switches are usually in dog * cheap mech keyboards so they get a bad rep, but IMO Outemu Blue/Brown > MX Blue/Brown. 

 

 

aNEBAxc.png

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On 01/12/2023 at 18:13, The Pook said:

 

Outemu switches are usually in dog * cheap mech keyboards so they get a bad rep, but IMO Outemu Blue/Brown > MX Blue/Brown. 

 

 

aNEBAxc.png

 

Disagree. Sorry. Had a Redragon TKL board at one point, and it had Outemu blues, the metal clang and very loud click of the switches was pretty terrible and it wasn't worth modding. My brother still has one and those $20-40 keyboards with them are great for the price, but you really do get what you pay for.

 

$40 is what I spent on November's foldathon prize of a Rosewill K85 with Kailh clone blues, and some blue O-Rings. That board is often on sale and a great buy, but needs o-rings to keep the keycaps from bottoming out and eliminate the metal clang. That's the keyboard Mom uses on her rig for gaming. Previously she had a Redragon TKL with Outemu blues in it, it was just horrific, she really appreciated the upgrade.

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