Mr. Fox

My wife is on Facebook and communicates with friends and relatives through it, and most of our adult kids are on it as well. By no means do I believe everyone there is an idiot, I just prefer not to expose myself to the stupidity that is rampant there and on Twitter. In today's woke climate I would end up banned anyhow, because I cannot resist the urge to attack stupidity with a shoot to kill approach. Neither of these venues resembles what they once were, before they became a political disinformation tool for the looney leftists.

I just purchased one as well. I had registered on their marketing web site, which was an interesting experience since Google translator was not working well. I checked their website every 24-48 hours and emailed them asking for a notification when stock became available. No email came, but my ritual of checking worked as planned. I refuse to have any engagement on Facepoot. I do not have an account there. I canceled the account that I had registered about a decade ago using fake information when the irrational "orange man bad" Nazi wokism kicked in. I've never looked back. Life is much better and I think my IQ has increased now that I have zero interaction with idiots on Facepoot and Twatter.

Well... It looks like it scales perfectly per core. Both cores is essentially twice the performance of one core.

Thanks for the suggestion. No EVGA Z490 Dark fan control access, same as the other one. Fan options do even appear in the GUI.

If you have a Dark or Classified mobo, don't waste your time with the fan or lighting app. Neither the lighting nor the fan apps work with the Z490 Dark. The fan app detects the sensors, but there are no software controls available for the fan headers. The lighting app doesn't detect anything at all. The RGB and ARGB headers are not visible to the app and neither is the RGB keyboard. So, both are utterly worthless on EVGA. But, the cool part is I don't really need the lighting app on the system with the Z490 Dark because the EVGA app isn't UWP feces. It would be nice to have a way to control the fans connected to the motherboard headers without having to go into the BIOS to change things.

Thanks. I will look into that. I had not discovered it. Google, here I come.

Exactly like that. Many of the fancy M.2 heat sinks are totally unusual due to current motherboard design. The newer EVGA motherboards (Z590, Z690 and X570 Dark and Classified) have insanely huge and effective if not overkill (can't hate that) NVME heat sinks, but most of the current motherboard designs have pathetic OEM thermal solutions for NVMe drives, along with the physical impediments to using something good like you just pointed out with your example.

This might come in handy for Manhattan... I am testing it and it seems to work well. Now we need a similar third-party motherboard lighting control so we can skip the Window Store dung that the numbskulls at ASUS, MSI, Gigabyte have moved to. It is really stupefying to see what a worthless posse of idiots work for these OEMs. To the best of my knowledge, EVGA is the ONLY one that hasn't prostituted their software into a UWP feces distribution model. But, they don't have fan control except in the BIOS as far as I know.

It is a relief knowing I am not the only person that finds that design flaw stupid and inconvenient. It is scary to think that people that design stuff we use are that dumb.

Band-Aids are not particularly helpful for bullet wounds, no matter how absorbent they are.

Seems like she is running pretty decent... Numba 2 for 12900K wPrime32M with Benchmate /img/logo.png Mr. Fox`s wPrime - 32m with BenchMate score: 1sec 431ms with a Core i9 12900K HWBOT.ORG The Core i9 12900K @ 5500MHzscores getScoreFormatted in the wPrime - 32m with BenchMate benchmark. Mr. Foxranks #9 worldwide and #2 in the hardware class. Find out more at HWBOT. /img/logo.png Mr. Fox`s Cinebench - R20 with BenchMate score: 12022 cb with a Core i9 12900K HWBOT.ORG The Core i9 12900K @ 5516.1MHzscores getScoreFormatted in the Cinebench - R20 with BenchMate benchmark. Mr. Foxranks #null worldwide and #16 in the hardware class. Find out more at HWBOT.

So, just for giggles I did that washer mod thing that has been talked about relating to the 12th Gen ILM crushing the CPU into a banana shape. I used some M4 1mm thick nylon washers, and it did lower the temps a bit, even after a delid with the copper IHS. I started the stress test and left at 3 minutes in to run to the store, and got back after the test had run for a total of 40 minutes. I put this into a side-by-side for ease of viewing. It was certainly easier to latch with the washers in there. It was so tight before that it almost felt like something is going to get broken before you can latch it down.

I think you should make yourself a new and improved v2.0 of that with the adjustments mentioned and sell the original to me.

Looks pretty awesome, bro. What is that chassis/frame being used in the build? It doesn't look familiar to me. But, it looks like something I should familiarize myself with.

Yes, that is the only way it could have happened. The clamshell was fully closed with the screws tightened before I slid the block against the IHS and tightened the large "push" bolt, so it seems like maybe there is some room for improvement on the tool itself. This is my fourth RockitCool delid tool (I have them for two prior generations plus socket 2011/Skylake-X) and I have never seen this occur until now. I generally see 10-15°C temperature reduction, but 5-7°C is still very good. I view that as meaning the original IHS solder job was likely better quality than prior CPU generations and probably also an indicator that my cooling system is performing very well. I also suspect the improvement in core max temp will be more pronounced with the chilled water, as that is usually the case.

That fan is a 120mm that I have blowing air over the memory modules, with the fan curve set in the BIOS to react based on CPU temperature. So, it does make sense that the speed was a bit less with the lower CPU temperature. I am pleased with everything except for the stock IHS being ruined. (By ruined, I mean the only way I can fix it is by lapping and thereby erasing all of the factory identification on the IHS. That kind of pisses me off a little bit.) But, 5-7°C actually is a really decent temperature drop and probably would have been a degree or two better with the stock IHS. I find my temps are always 1 or 2 degrees higher with a RockitCool IHS than they are with the stock IHS except for a laptop. The Clevo laptops with a desktop CPU benefit a lot more because of the flatness of the copper IHS mating better with a flat laptop heat sink. Everything will be even better once I have the parts needed for bare die.

Well, I got the delid done. Definite improvement, although not as amazing as I had hoped. My temps were already better than most I have seen, so that probably has something to do with it because there was less room for improvement. I have historically had better temps with the stock IHS than I have using a Copper IHS. Unfortunately, the delid tool caused damage to the stock IHS. In order to use it I will need to lap it to fix the damage, which sucks because the main reason to have an aftermarket IHS is to keep the stock one looking new. Lapping it would totally defeat the purpose for buying an aftermarket IHS. I am not sure if the IHS deformation is because the 12th Gen IHS is softer metal than prior generations, if it is because it takes more force to break the solder joint, or if the RockitCool delid tool isn't made correctly. Nothing in terms of user error could cause it because all you do it put it in the pocket and tighten the lid down snugly. I also heated the IHS to soften the solder.

I will be joining the 12900K delid party. The kit arrived a day earlier than expected. Now, I need to get a direct die setup when stock becomes available again.

Dell (and Alienware) will always be Dell. I had to stop asking why around 2012. They aspire to be equivalent of Apple in nearly every sense. Dell used to be a good brand. And, it's sad how often we get to say that about so many things, not just Dell. Mass production of cheap junk that is thin, lightweight, and uses as little power as possible, are the areas of focus in the tech world. Performance, quality and serviceability are no longer high on the list of priorities. The more crap they solder to the motherboard and the more pieces (like RAM, laptop AC adapters, desktop PSUs, etc.) that are made proprietary through form factor, firmware, etc. the more reliant the consumers become on the OEM they bought from. What is serviced is sourced almost exclusively from the OEM, and when something is not serviced they intend to sell a replacement computer. No upgrades, enhancements or repairs. It makes sense that some of this occurs because they are in business to make money, but it comes at the expense of the customer being trapped and enslaved to the machine. Their patrons are merely "end users" now and not customers in the traditional sense. They are doing what is best for the company and the end user is source of funding for their machine. In practical application they own the product, the process and the end user that subscribes to the privilege to use it. It is more like renting a computer than owning one. Someone else decides, in advance, what you get to do with it. A very despicable Mac-like business model in so many ways.

That is a great idea. I wondered how clumsy it would be trying to put a hot CPU into the delid tool and cinch it down before it cooled off. I never thought of using the hole in the tool with the soldering station. That would give me a good excuse to break out my hot air station. Since I don't do any laptop modding any more and there was no need to shunt mod my Kingpin GPU, I seldom have a reason to get it out of the closet. Did you use an infrared thermometer to check the temperature of the IHS pointing the laser dot through the hole? Had I done that on the 11900K it probably would not have torn the die off the PCB/cores. Brother @Bastiaan_NL what is this product? The label is not familiar to me and I cannot read enough info on it.

There are quite a few people submitting scores on HWbot that believe 3Dmark flags for an "unapproved driver" matters. It doesn't and scores are still accepted at HWbot with that flag. All it means is that 3Dmark didn't take time to test it and add it to their list of tested drivers. The story behind the LOD and tess mods being OK on older benchmarks goes back a few years now. ATI/AMD GPUs used to get much higher benchmark scores because they lacked features that allowed higher scores at the expense of image quality. By default, they did not handle tessellation and their "level of detail" was very low, so disabling those things made for a more accurate comparison. Dumbing down the graphics on an NVIDIA card to resemble the competition eliminated the "AMD cheat" rather than it being a cheat. Newer benchmarks and progress on the part of AMD is why it is only allowed on older benchmarks. Congrats on the HWbot ranking. That is only achieved through time and effort, and skill. You earned and deserve it, bro. We are all happy for you. I am eager to see your results on the delid. I am considering the same. Did anything about the process differ from prior generation delids? I have delidded every CPU I have owned since 4960X. The only one that did not benefit greatly was 5950X. The first 3 were done using a razor blade, then RockitCool came on the scene. It was always really easy and painless up until doing so ripped the die off the CPU cores on an 11900K I had, and now I am gun shy. I guess one out of maybe 30 is a good track record, but I don't want to kill my sweet 12900K sample.

It would be the perfect place for that if it relates to OS or software. What about a hardware mod? (see below) If I am not mistaken, that gave rise to the suggestion. But, it would be good to have a place to share that info for hardware or software mods/tweaks. I used the thin and flat end of a nylon pick tool (this type) and very slowly pushed it between the aluminum skin they called a heat sink and the double-sided foam tape "blanket" they used instead of a thermal pad. Push it about 1/8th inch or so, pause, push more, pause. This will allow the tension of the nylon tool getting wedged in there to "peel" the adhesive off the memory ICs and PCB. I then used acetone to remove the leftover adhesives and did a final cleaning with alcohol. Go slow and keep the pick tool near the edge connector side of the DIMM to avoid the surface mounted ICs that are mounted near the top edge of the memory PCB. You don't want to tear off the SMDs pushing the pick tool into the danger zone near the top of the PCB. If you are using DDR4 memory heat plates, use a slightly thicker thermal pad and/or place Kapton tape on the surface-mounted components to insulate them from accidentally making direct contact with the metal heat sinks. DDR5 has extra components on the memory PCB that are not found on DDR3/4 modules (see image below). The heat sinks for DDR4 fit fine on DDR5, just take the extra step with the Kapton tape on the SMDs to avoid a short. You could probably use a small piece of electrical tape, Scotch tape or even a few coats of clear nail polish if you don't have Kapton tape. I recommend Kapton tape. Every PC enthusiast should have some handy. It is strong and heat resistant. It will even stand up to the use of a hot air soldering station without melting or burning up. (It is actually designed for that.) Some of these would be nice to have. They are out of stock now. https://bartxstore.com/shop/custom-ram-copper-heatsinks-for-ddr5-ddr4/

Well, I finally pulled off the crappy (and ugly) T-Force heat sinks and replaced them with the RAM jackets and finned heat sink that I had on my GSKILL DDR4. I was getting errors in TM5 due to the memory overheating right near the end of the test run and now no errors and 12°C cooler. I am also glad that the RGB puke rainbow is gone with the LEDs hidden under the heat sinks now. I never have cared much for RGB memory... chintzy gimmick that requires bloatware filth to control. Thanks, but no thanks. I honestly don't know how memory manufacturers think they are doing us a favor by slapping thin aluminum sheets with an adhesive foam "blanket" to snuggle the ICs in their own heat. The stock ones are never much good, but they'd probably be good enough to leave alone if they actually used good thermal pads instead of that adhesive foam rubber crap to trap heat. It also makes them a real pain in the butt to remove from the modules. They make them so difficult to remove, maybe they are scared someone might discover a memory module hiding under the tacky dress.

Here is a new single core for me... Looks like post #1 has not been updated with this new info for multi-core.