Mr. Fox

I don't have a good way to cool them as I did the DDR4 modules. They do get hot under certain circumstances (I have seen a max of about 52°C, which is very warm for memory) and start throwing TM5 errors due to the thermals. The same was true of my DDR4 modules. If they got hotter than about 40-45°C it would produce errors in TM5. Until heavy duty DDR5 heat sink jackets (like those used for water cooling) are available, I have a 120MM fan blowing on the modules to try to keep them cool. I may try some of my DDR4 heat sinks on these modules, but the jury is still out on whether they actually fit correctly. I tend to trust Igor more than a reddit users. DDR4 RAM cooler to DDR5? Not a good idea! The differences in detail including 3D scan and instructions WWW.IGORSLAB.DE Today it's about non-existing coolers for unavailable RAM, so once again pure unicorn cinema for all who are only missing the RAM for the new Intel system with

I also use an OptimusPC water block. I think they are by far the best. The Signature and Foundation water blocks are built extremely well in addition to working superbly. My radiator is a MORA 360, but I don't use any kind of radiator when I do extensive benching because the radiator conflicts with the efforts of the chiller and prevents the water from getting cold enough. I simply reroute the lines with QDC fittings and bypass the radiator. I'm also planning to delid and go bare die. I have been running bare die since 7th Gen and I wish Intel would offer a no IHS option for their processors. Everything would be so much easier that way. Some people say bare die is dangerous, but laptops have almost always been bare die. Even the mobile Extreme CPUs were.

Yes that is Cinebench stable with 0 AVX offset. This is my first MSI motherboard and I've not become intimately familiar with all of the settings as I have with Asus and EVGA firmware. The LLC is set on 6 but that's not the same as 6 on an Asus board. It's probably equal to about 5 on Asus. But I'm just guessing LOL. EVGA does LLC settings the best by expressing the values as a percentage rather than a meaningless number. This firmware seems like it is geared more toward tickling the aesthetic focus of a gamer than a no-nonsense overclocker the way things are laid out. And of course, as usual, some of the terminology is the MSI version of something Asus, EVGA, or another brand call something else. I wish all brands would adhere to stricter nomenclature standards. My video card still runs at x16 even with all of the m.2 slots filled and even with a sixth NVMe SSD inserted into the open X4 slot on an add-in card. I do have the onboard Wi-Fi/BT and second NIC disabled in the BIOS since I have no need for any of them and that may be allowing it to run at x16. It is unfortunate that all of the enthusiast motherboards are using UWP trash control center software. MSI Center is not as bloated and life-sucking as Armory Crate, but it is still rubbish. The UWP version of Mystic Light is every bit as trashy as Armory Create.

Thank you for your words of wisdom and concern. I sincerely appreciate them. I am not sure why Benchmate showed 1.51V unless it was an overshoot issue, and I will monitor that closer. I had the BIOS set at 1.475V override. I definitely don't want to kill this excellent CPU sample. It runs 52/41 on cores and 43x cache at 1.275V and 53/41 at 1.295V. My bigger concern right now relating to my daily driver clock speeds and not benching is the PCH temperature. Doing nothing (just idle) the PCH hovers around 80-85°C and I have seen it at 90°C. I have all five NVMe slots filled. If I remove a couple of them the temperatures drop about 5-8°C. I guess I am going to have to do some kind of hardware modification to keep the PCH from committing suicide. The PCH voltage is set to 0.850V (BIOS default value) but instead of "Auto" I switched it to override in an effort to try to control the high temps, since I don't know that "Auto" is not higher than default.

Looks like I got a good lottery ticket on the RAM and CPU IMC as well. I am only just now starting to tweak things. I have a ton of stuff to learn about Z690 overclocking and DDR5. Like going from Intel to Ryzen... or speaking a different language. These read/write/copy speeds remind me of my monster 7980XE benching days. https://hwbot.org/submission/4943746_mr._fox_wprime___32m_with_benchmate_core_i9_12900k_1sec_532ms https://hwbot.org/submission/4943767_mr._fox_wprime___1024m_with_benchmate_core_i9_12900k_37sec_90ms

Thank you. Seems like a solid silicon sample. I did not check in HWINFO64. In Cinebench R23 at 5.4GHz on P-cores, about 375W. Probably not quite that high in CPU-Z at 5.5GHz. https://hwbot.org/submission/4943498_mr._fox_cinebench___r23_multi_core_with_benchmate_core_i9_12900k_30908_cb/

OK, here is a first try with the new hardware.

I agree. I prefer using Steam since I have most of my games there. The trouble I am having with Steam now is I don't care for the indie stuff and my interests in gaming are extremely narrow. With few exceptions, I am ONLY interested in first-person shooter titles with a single-player offline campaign. I don't like playing games online and do not like open world games. The selection of titles I am interested in playing are getting harder to find on Steam because of all the stuff I view as garbage being sold on Steam. Yes, there have been a number of games purchased on Steam that require Origin or Uplay clients. When you launch the game on Steam it will automatically load the other client. I really hate that... super annoying. If I know this before I buy it, I won't buy it on Steam. I know there are others, but two that come to mind are Crysis, Crysis 2 and Far Cry 2. When I discovered that, I repurchased the same games on Origin and Uplay and do not install them on Steam. I also refuse to purchase anything from Micro$lop Game Studios any more. I am a big fan of the Gears of War franchise, but it sucks when the Digi-Nazi Clown Possee forces you to use the latest version of the Winduhz 10 abortion OS to play games. I don't want Windows Store filth on my systems, and I don't want to use their latest and less-than-greatest crap OS, so I don't play Gears of War for Windows 10 or Gears of War 4 anymore. I purchased Gears of War 5 on Steam and play it on Windows 7. It works flawlessly, which goes to show what a dishonest racket the Redmond Re-tards have going on.

That is good news. It always sucks to have to install a client for one or two games. Any time something moves away from being controlling, proprietary or monopolistic in design I consider it a good thing. I intentionally support businesses that do, and intentionally look for opportunities to avoid giving money to businesses that remain controlling, proprietary and monopolistic.

While the AMD users might be getting hurt harder at the moment, everyone using Windows 10 is a victim of performance degradation, and Windows 11 users moreso. Almost every Windows version change adds more unnecessary trash and overhead that consumes system resources, impairs performance.

If only I were getting off that easy. Flowers and chocolates would be the easy way out. Instead the price is a four-day weekend and repainting all of the interior walls in the main living areas of our house. She's definitely worth it, and then some, but I don't know that the parts will be, LOL. But, I would do it for her just because I love her. I guess I shouldn't tell her that or the price might go up.

OK. Talked to my wonderful wife. She agreed, but it's going to cost me some favors. 12900K - SP92 (P-core 104 / E-core 70) MSI MEG Z690 Unify-X TeamGroup Delta Black DDR5-6200 CL38-38-38-78 with Hynix IC Moving Z490 Dark components to work computer case Selling Z490 Strix with 4000 B-die RAM and 10850K SP84 CPU

A much sadder fact than needing a Micro$lop account to set up future versions of Winduhz 11 is that there are people that will. The tolerant sheeple are to blame for this. Their brainless compliance is the reason bad products and the bad people offering them prosper.

I did not take offense. Someone a lot smarter than me once said, "A merry heart does good, like medicine, But a broken spirit dries the bones." I agree with that.

Thank you. I was hoping the CPU might be OK. The circumstances under which it stopped working certainly would give the impression the CPU wouldn't be harmed. But, the fault follows the CPU to another computer. It won't boot in either system, and any CPU boots on the system where it failed. I tried all three BIOS positions. Swapped out RAM sticks. Cleared CMOS. I recovery flashed it as you would with no RAM or CPU. Finally, I moved the CPU to the work setup. It doesn't boot in the other computer either. In the Strix (no LCD codes, just lights) it fails POST with the VGA light on. I have a spare 10850K and 10900KF and both boot fine on the Dark mobo. (Well, I HAD as spare 10900KF, but now it is in the Strix board and the CPU from that one is back in the Dark again.) The highest voltage I tried was 1.550V (which I have used with all of my CPUs on chilled water) but I could not do 5.7 stable for anything other than CPU-Z benchmark and gave up. VCCSA and VCCIO are manually set and I try to avoid "auto" for voltage, amp and power settings. I also avoid using adaptive voltage. I run core voltage static as well. I generally only leave boot voltage values on Auto.

Well, you'd only have to beat it once. That CPU died. I can't see anything wrong with it. After benching it earlier today, I set it back to 5.3GHz all core at 1.265V. I used my computer for several more hours, then I had dinner with my kids. I came back a couple of hours later, set the BIOS to defaults and went to flash the firmware on BIOS position #2 with v1.10 from EVGA. When it shut down after flashing it never booted again. It also won't boot in the Strix mobo. Shows a VGA error on the Strix and a Q-code 24 on the Z490 Dark. So, I am back to using my SP81 10900K. I am really bummed out. I got to use it 3 days. I don't understand how/why that happened. Makes no sense. $400 down the toilet.

Yes, I am happy with the result, but I would love to have one. Please do keep me in mind. I may need to provide a height measurement since the Z490 Dark has the VRM heat sink next to the GPU. The block won't fit between the GPU and the VRM heat sink, so it sits a little higher than ideal.

That is what I would *love* to have, but I am already in enough trouble with Mrs. Fox with my overclocking fetish. So, I do not know that I convince her that I "need" that, LOL.

Here is a new one when you get to it. 9454.4

I would love to do that but EVGA doesn't even sell o-ring kits for the Hydro Copper blocks. I seriously doubt that they would sell me the replacement back plate, but it certainly worth asking about. In fact I think I will. If nothing else I could use it as a template with a fab shop to have them make one for me. Would be really cool is to make the back plate and block with fins all one piece with the MP5WORKS Plexi top on it. That way the water block plate would be the entire back plate surface.

Follow up on last purchase post... OK, it is not anywhere near on the level of the custom backplate that Brother @iamjanco has on his 3090 K|INGP|N that I am so envious of, but it is a definite improvement. There really is not an elegant way to mount it to a K|NGP|N card other than a custom backplate fabrication, but this worked well enough. Temps would be even better with a slick backplate that is completely flat with no design lines carved into it. Comparison of stock EVGA 3090 K|NGP|N backplate thermal pads vs. Fujipoly full PCB thermal pad (from OptimusPC) vs. Fujipoly full PCB pad plus MP5WORKS block. The test used was EVGA OC Scanner's Furmark Memory Burner test. The first two tests were run for 5 minutes each. After installing the MP5WORKS block I allowed it to run for 10 minutes. You will need to click on the second image 2 or 3 times to view it full size for easily reading the text.