Mr. Fox

You're welcome Brother. I hope so, too. That kind of nonsense is really frustrating. Let us know if it did. Have a wonderful weekend.

I just disable Windows Updates completely on all of my systems and manually install anything I deem important (which is rare) from a Windows Catalog download. WinAero Tweaker is useful for A LOT of tweaks and I use it for a ton of tweaks. The Windows Update Show Hide troubleshooting package form KB article 3073930 was created exactly for this purpose. Simply download the file and double click to launch the troubleshooter. Macro$lop no longer makes this available because it gives muppets more power than they want them to have. You can grab it here: https://m.majorgeeks.com/files/details/microsoft_show_or_hide_updates_troubleshooter.html

It took a LONG while and it was a real pain in the butt, but I finally got 6800 CL30 dialed in as a daily driver memory overclock. Trial and error always sucks. Some interesting discoveries in the process... maybe at least some part of this will be useful to someone else and help cut down on their frustration. Setting tRFC and tRFCPB too tight improves read speed, but degrades write, copy and latency and the best overall performance and latency are achieved leaving both of them set to Auto and letting the BIOS train the values. Likewise, tRCD and tRP set too tight produced errors. Moving from 38 to 39 reduced errors, moving to 40 eliminated them. CPU VDDQ and CPU VDD2 and DRAM VPP work best if left on Auto. Setting them manually to the values programmed by the BIOS when set on Auto causes inconsistency in stability. Setting tWR and tWR_MR too tight causes inconsistent results, while leaving them on Auto and letting the BIOS train the values had no effect on performance and eliminated errors in testing. Setting tWTR and tWTR_L at 14 and 28, respectively, displays as 8 and 19 using Dragon Ball. Asus MemTweakIt doesn't even read those two values and it does not accurately read the tWR value. Using either software tool can result in erroneous interpretation due to the BIOS values not being displayed accurately for a few settings. Most of the values displayed by Dragon Ball match the BIOS settings.

Awesome. Thank you. I do not post a lot of content, but I hope you enjoy what I have.

Yes going from stock soldered IHS to running this bare die should be a substantial improvement as mentioned. I was disappointed that it did not bring the improvement I was hoping for to the same extent that the same product did for my 10900K. I am also constantly fussing with my hardware and never leave anything alone for more than a few weeks at a time. The way it's designed makes it kind of a hassle for someone that doesn't just put things together and leave it alone. Your experience with it could be as amazing as it was demonstrated to be in Frame Chaser's video as well as Igor's Lab. We hope you post your results here and tell us your experience. We'd love to see and hear about that. It took a long time to receive it. They didn't ship it for like 2 weeks and did not provide any status updates. No explanation was given for why there was a two-week lag between the day the order was placed and when it was shipped. If I had to guess there was probably no stock on hand and he was manufacturing them after orders were placed. I would have been fine with that had it been disclosed up front or immediately explained by email. I was kind of pissed off at the lack of attention to customer service though, to be honest. Maybe that's not important in their culture, but it damned sure is here, LOL. I am currently running a Thermalright contact frame with a stock IHS that has been lapped with liquid metal applied on both sides of it.

I haven't felt like benching much lately, but today I fired up the chiller and beat a few of my best scores and racked up a few points on HWBOT. It is not as much fun as it used to be, but today I remembered why I have enjoyed it so much for so long. 3DMark 11 Physics: https://hwbot.org/submission/5007313_ 3DMark 11 Performance: https://hwbot.org/submission/5007318_ 3DMark 11 Extreme: https://hwbot.org/submission/5007319_ HOF Rankings (for some reason my best Physics result isn't listed, only my second-best is)

I debated whether to pay an extra $30 USD for the TG/der8auer version and decided I would give the $5 USD Chinese option a try first. Now I am glad that I didn't pay extra for the TG option. I can't really identify how it would be any different other than costing more. The only signficant difference I can identify is the TG version has adjustable pressure depending on how much you tighten the screws and it doesn't rest against the motherboard. This cheap Chinese version has a shoulder at the ends where the screws are inserted with pad that makes contact with the motherboard PCB. You cinch it down snug against the motherboard. Based on how it is designed, I think I like the cheaper option a little better because you don't have to be precise with the installation procedure... K.I.S.S. principle at work.

Temps are fine. No problems at all. Basically the same as it was with the washer mod, but I like this a lot better than the ILM and it provides a nice shroud for liquid metal containment, which is the main reason I wanted it. I might replace the recycled KPX on it now with Liquid Pro sometime this weekend. That should knock 'em down another 10-12°C in a heavy AVX load.

I finally got it. Took a while.

Hi Bro. I am part of another HWBOT team with some folks that have been my friends for years. Mr. Fox`s AIDA64 - Memory Read score: 113913 points with a DDR5 SDRAM HWBOT.ORG The DDR5 SDRAM @ 7020MHzscores getScoreFormatted in the AIDA64 - Memory Read benchmark. Mr. Foxranks #17 worldwide and #5 in the hardware class. Find out more at HWBOT.

/img/logo.png Mr. Fox`s AIDA64 - Memory Read score: 111730 points with a DDR5 SDRAM HWBOT.ORG The DDR5 SDRAM @ 6800MHzscores getScoreFormatted in the AIDA64 - Memory Read benchmark. Mr. Foxranks #16 worldwide and #5 in the hardware class. Find out more at HWBOT.

Glad you were not hurt, bro. That is the most important thing. Man, having a crash in a Smart car is a scary thought. It did a fair amount of damage to the VM van. I can't see the front of the turdbox that rear-ended the van, but I can imagine that is it probably the end of the line for that crummy little coupe. Hammer meets nail... hammer wins. But, this is in reverse. Looks like the nail tried to drive the hammer. But, the outcome is the same. Hammer wins. Edit: "Hammer wins" sounds like the conclusion of a Mortal Combat challenge, LOL.

I farted around with the Supercool direct die block for a few hours today and decided it's more trouble than it is worth. I am pretty sure if I spend enough time getting the cold plate to fit right it would work great, like the one does on my 10900K, but I got tired of sucking the water out of it with a vacuum cleaner. After the third time I was like, "Fox, what the hell are you doing? And, why?" I can put up with inconvenient design when it works well and produces pleasing results, but I'm not seeing that. It should have just worked right out of the box. The temps were not horrible, but they should have been better than with an IHS and they were not. Not good enough to justify the hassle, that's for sure. I did not try sanding down the CPU side of the cold plate as I originally planned to because I noticed that the tabs or "wings" on the sides where the ILM presses down are already extremely thin and if I remove some of the material they might end up being too thin and bending under pressure. Plus, when you buy something special, you expect it to work right. I am losing interest in modding things other people have made that are supposed to be awesome (which is why you buy it in the first place) in order to get the results the product was expected to produce when it was purchased. I think I am going to order one of those ILM replacements and call it good since I am not benching much any more. If someone comes up with a bare die frame for 12th Gen that allows me to use a normal water block, I'll grab one if and when that happens. I lapped the stock IHS and put it back together with KPX on the top side and I'm done for now. Considering it's not liquid metal on both sides of the IHS, the temps are actually very good. As usual (for me) the stock IHS works better than the aftermarket copper IHS on a desktop. The aftermarket IHSes have only been better than stock for me on a laptop.

From what I can tell, the one from Thermalright simply tightens down against some pads to make contact with the motherboard. The one from der8auer has adjustable tension. I am also interested in the associated lapping block that loads the CPU under tension to mimic the distortion of being installed. This should ultimately result in a better lapping outcome. I found Roman's video interesting where he was showing how Splave's lapped IHS was no longer flat after the CPU was installed. I think that either one of them will be better than the stock ILM. The design is more intelligent and is basically the same concept as the previous bare die frames. One thing that I like about how they are made is there is a tiny air gap around the perimeter of the IHS. You could pack air gap that with some cheap thermal compound and load up the top of the IHS with liquid metal and not have to worry about it running off the edge and dripping into the socket pins area.

I suspect it is. I showed this in the video. I might need to lap the die side of the cold plate to increase the contact pressure. I did not have adequate coverage upon the first installation, but you can see where the edge of the die contacted the bare cold plate. Had the fit been well it would have squished the liquid metal across the area that is bare metal. It is also only in the lower left corner in the photo. It should have been visible the full length of the die. Adding more liquid metal helped, but there are a couple of cores getting a lot hotter than the rest with the bare die block. Core temps were very even and close to the same on all cores/threads with the copper IHS. Maybe next weekend I will take it apart again and lap the bottom of the cold plate to increase pressure on the die. The recessed area on the CPU side of the cold plate is probably deeper than it should be. If that doesn't help enough, then I will just back to using the IHS and sell the Supercool direct die block on eBay or Mercari. If I do not stick with this, I will probably just lap the stock IHS. I generally get better results that way than I do with a copper IHS from Rockitcool. But, I am interested in that same ILM replacement, so I look forward to seeing how that works. I am thinking of ordering one from Ali, but I am curious what, if anything, (or nothing,) is special about the one der8auer is making.

Follow up after further investigation... It was user error at first, but overall really no improvement. That is very puzzling, but maybe the cold plate didn't have enough effort in the design. It's OK, but so far kind of a disappointment. Not sure if I am going to keep it or not. Will play with it some more before I decide. Still kind of shocking that the temps are not better since so much less material is present between the water and the die.

Well, I installed the Supercool direct die block and my temps are a little bit higher than they were with the copper IHS. The installation was pretty straightforward. The CPU was already delidded, so there wasn't much effort involved. To rule out the possibility of user error on my part, I am going to remove it and check to confirm the liquid metal application was adequate and test once more before I decide if I should go back to using an IHS. This would be the first time ever in my experience that direct die cooling did not result in an impressive improvement. I am impressed with the Supercool 10th Gen direct die block, so I am hoping this is a result of user error and not a flaw in 12th Gen product design. Edit: I had done the ILM washer mod so I will also remove them to rule out the possibility that is a factor.

Mine is being delivered today as well. I had my 10th Gen Supercool kit for a long time and never used it because I did not particularly care for it aesthetically and I especially do not like that it cannot be disassembled without spilling at least a little bit of water and making a small mess that has to be cleaned up before powering up the system. That makes for an inconvenient setup. I have always used either the der8auer die frame or the Rockitcool die frame, but I had to try it for no reason other than curiosity. The die frames work extremely well once you get everything positioned exactly right, but it requires a fair amount of fiddling and fuss to get the right fit to function correctly because they are very imprecise and have a lot of "slop" in the design. If you don't take the time to get the fit right, they don't work well at all. This Supercool 10th Gen kit works extremely well and has a higher degree of precision to it. I think it functions better than any other direct die setup I have used before. It still has all of the mentioned cons relating to aesthetics and inconvenience, but the pro is fantastic cooling. Ultimately, the reason we delid and go bare die is to achieve better cooling and create more overclocking headroom. To that extent it is a clear win. I hope the 12th Gen kit works as well in terms of cooling.

That is exactly what I was going to suggest trying first. This is a common problem with Windows 10 and 11. Sometimes resetting the Windoze icon cache will correct it. Winaero Tweaker has a couple of features for this that you can try.

Awesome. I just got my email, too. Literally right after I asked you, LOL.

That is great news. I still do not have my tracking info yet. I have asked for it. Since I received a reply on Friday that DHL would have it later that evening, I waited until Monday and asked where the tracking number is. Did they update your order on the web site or send you an email with the tracking number? How did you receive it?