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Everything posted by SoloCamo
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Thanks, missed that. I do have an Athlon X3 cpu but it's a low clocked, low tdp version I bought ages ago...
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Man, I really don't have anything to compete with and I missed out last time due to simply forgetting. For the AMD cpu they mention AM3 cpu's - I'm assuming no AM3+? I'd love to use my FX-9590 for that 3 core event... That said, I'd imagine they'd be ok with using an AM3 cpu in a AM3+ mobo?
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guru3d Intel Arc Battlemage Xe2 GPUs with 448 EUs (56 Xe cores) Spotted
SoloCamo replied to UltraMega's topic in Hardware News
Yea, the additional competition is nice. I ended up throwing the A380 I had in my workstation rig to use for my GF's i3 12100 lower power system (mostly used for business/school/light photoshop) and it's been solid. My only complaint is the idle power draw. If intel can hammer that out they really are going to be quite the contender in the next gen or two. -
What browser and what ad blocker?
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Stardew Valley deserves it's praise. I didn't get the hype but I basically just farm, I don't really do anything that I'm supposed to and it's just relaxing. I said the same thing before I picked it up. Just don't be like me and name your chickens with Egg at the beginning of their name as a requirement... Eggbert, Eggdizzle, Eggolas, etc. you start to run out of ideas fast. The only thing I bought was lossless scaling, and it wasn't on sale. In fact I think this is the first steam sale in history where I haven't bought something...
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"Parts must include everything needed for the PC to be fully functional, including the case" I'm assuming no peripherals, correct (keyb,mouse,monitor, etc.) Also, being that prices can fluctuate wildly daily how is that being handled? For example tomorrow will probably have Jul;y 4th special deals, are they still valid if they expire before the contest ends? Not trying to be a stickler here just want to make sure it's fair for all.
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Can confirm, haven't had an issue. Thanks for getting it resolved asap.
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Haven't cleared cache yet, but this has happened to be on mobile (brave browser) and firefox on win 11 and win 10. It's been sporadic.
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I have an older Lenovo with a A8-6410 (7410 just has slightly faster clocks) and it absolutely supports 1866. The CPU is limited to single channel so make sure to use the 1866 if you can to help the very low bandwidth. I ran a single 8gb stick of 1866 and tried to add another 4gb but with both sticks it would force both to 1600mhz though so the IMC may be weak on these. With you having a new model maybe you'll have better luck.
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Running it on my one Nvidia gpu, giving the 6900XT a break this run due to Summer being in full blaster here in FL, good luck everyone
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I've pretty much always went with middle of the road boards as long as they had the features I needed and had reliable power delivery/cooling. There is only one time I spent for a top tier board and that's when I was gifted a FX-9590 and wanted the best board possible for AM3+ to ensure it ran to it's full potential. Said board was a Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z. Both my current Z590's are mid range (Asus TUF Z590 and Asrock Steel Legend) and were around $200-$250 new. This just goes to show much times have changed as my top tier Asus for that AM3+ rig was $225.... now getting a board of similar quality is easily $400-$500.
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For now, give it a year it'll be back.
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This... Though I must admit my EVGA SuperNOVA 750 P2 has done an absolutely excellent job handling a 11900k and 6900XT... No issues whatsoever and I know the spikes are a real problem for this generation of cards from both Nvidia and AMD. Keep in mind, the 6900XT is actually more efficient than the 6800XT and power use between the two is near identical.
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My luck certainly turned around thankfully (sorry for your flat though, I seem to always get one within 5,000 miles of new tires being installed). The electrical issues I'm having probably are the alternator (low voltage issues have been an annoyance for me) but the actual issue causing limp mode turned out to be the brake light switch or so I thought.... kind of. So before leaving the parking lot of the pet store I thought my brake lights were on, but my eyes have been extremely light sensitive lately and my GF thought they were off so I didn't think much of it... after scrounging the net for answers on the sudden limp mode somebody mentioned the brake light switch registering brakes as on will force an acceleration limp mode as a safety precaution but it will not throw a CEL. Went to the local dealer and bought a new OEM switch for $68 after tax (autozone wanted $57 for an aftermarket) went to install it and then realized the little rubber grommet that depresses the brake switch just deteriorated over time in the Florida heat. That part is not typically carried so I modified a push clip that you would typically find on a fender liner in it's place and used some gorilla tape to ensure it doesn't fall out. Issue fixed and confirmed with a WOT pull from a standstill. TLDR - Long story short I can't believe a piece of rubber caused a limp mode. Infiniti reliability redeemed (please don't spite me car gods). I have an older version of the same low profile floor jack and I absolutely love it. You got a great deal considering 2024 pricing... I got the lowest price for one of those and it was $75 but I'm talking what feels like ages ago now (probably 6-7 years ago now?) so nice score on that one at $99.
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Soo... @speed_demon Remember how I just told you on.. that other overclocking site (that shall not be named)) how this has been the most reliable car I've owned? Yea... driving home from the pet store today (girlfriend wanted a new fish..) the car went into limp mode. No CEL, engine revs fine in park / neutral... no sputtering... just no accelerating past 2500rpm or so, even if WOT. Found the metal battery tie down loose and potentially hitting the negative terminal (bounced around a bit) so I'm really hoping nothing got zapped... Also over the past few days I've had an intermittent low voltage light pop on... Sigh. All the forums I've read lead to potentially dirty MAF sensors, VVEL issues, oil gasket issue (2012 and newer models should be fixed for that known issue)... etc. At 150k miles this is the only time in about 4 years aside from a failed alternator that this car has given me any trouble so I suppose I can't complain.
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Thanks all, I'm sure there are quicker ways to do this but copying a lossless .wav backup with EAC and then using Audacity to convert to the highest quality MP3 has been solid so far. I wanted a copy of each anyways so this combo seems easy enough with my workflow (while one disc is backing up I make a another copy to MP3). Now if only I had 15 CD drives installed to one pc to make the backing up process quicker... ah well.
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Yea, at that mileage a carbon cleanup will definitely help. It helped every Direct Injection car I've driver or seen it done on. Both Mazda's with the 2.0 (her prior Mazda 3 before she upgraded to the Miata) ran much smoother after. My Accent the 1.6GDI also ran better after. As far as the Miata goes, it's a big upgrade over old models as it actually can move out of it's own way now, at least the ND2 variant with 181hp. 0-60 in mid 5's or so and it handles like a go kart. Downside is she bought an automatic but it's still a fun car. Gas mileage is stellar too which is mostly down to it weighing 2300lbs.
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Only difference with DI is that it bypasses the valves getting cleaned but the injectors should still benefit. Hopefully like you said it's just a bad MAF (can you clean yours?). With direct injection it's good to get carbon clean up done too if you haven't - look into BG44K - a lot of dealers offer it assuming you are still under warranty. My GF's 2021 Miata with the Skyactive 2.0 definitely benefited from it and she doesn't even have 50k miles on it.
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My 2013 Hyundai Accent I bought in 2014 had a CEL for about 3 years until 2019.... when that dash light burned out. Better than it being lean I suppose. That said, I'd normally suggest a fuel injector cleaner but a lot of modern motors don't play nice with it.
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Hello all, Taking a chance that some of you may have played this in the past and nostalgia will hit, and if not, maybe it will be a fun game for you that quite frankly runs on a potato. The original game was Infantry Online which launched in 1999. The steam version is based off of "free infantry" which is basically fans keeping the game alive. This was a pretty large game back in it's day and was one of the only games I actually played in ranks / tournaments. We've got a small but dedicated group that still play (Tuesday nights being the most popular for CTF which is my preferred game). Check it out and if not, maybe run it by some friends or old gamers as they may recognize it. Here is the steam link.. FreeInfantry on Steam STORE.STEAMPOWERED.COM Isometric. Massively Multiplayer. Capture The Flag. Skirmish. Bug Hunt. And more. Welcome to FreeInfantry - the world's first massive multiplayer online isometric shooter. And here is a brief wiki and overview of the original game Infantry (video game) - Wikipedia EN.WIKIPEDIA.ORG
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Hello all, I need to backup my extensive CD collection and convert them to MP3 and would also like lossless backups in other formats for non-car use. That said, my biggest issue is finding a proper software that once ripped will export the files just as they were on the disc aka they are labeled properly containing the band, album, then subsequent titles. I'd imagine in 2024 there is software that could easily do this? I'll be blunt, the shear amount of discs I own is why I need the formatting to be right from the start because going back in and renaming / setting a folder structure up for each is exactly why I haven't done it in the first place. Thanks as always for any suggestions

