neurotix

Anyway, I also built a new keyboard for my rig. Using it currently. Keychron K8 Pro TKL, Kailh Box Navy switches, Captain O-ring blue o-rings, SDYZ Great Wave Off Kanagawa keycaps, custom Classic Muscle Car plum crazy plastidip on the top plate.

Yeah I was folding 24/7 OC'ed in Linux with a 666w power limit... For 4 months. So I thought it was ok until one day it started giving me no signal at random, and then would also give no signal when starting a 3d load in Windows. Also I was benching for HWBOT on that bios so.. When I get the cable I need and hook it up so each 8 pin on the adapter has it's own pci-e cable, then I will probably resume folding but not overclocked and with the stock 450w power limit. If something else happens to the cables again, I will replace the psu.

Some better pictures. Since the USB-C to USB cable it comes with is so short, we ordered a 6 foot braided purple USB-C cable off Amazon. It comes with a USB-C to USB male adapter. It looks great. Check the images with lighting.

The latter. Because I was lazy (and at that point I don't think I had found the spate cable I had yet). Wife was concerned about it since day 1 with the 4090. I am very lucky I just lost a port on the back of my psu and a cable, and my 4090 didn't catch on fire, or the system or psu itself and burn the house down. Lesson learned. Listen to her. I was overconfident in the quality of my psu.

What keyboard? Also, here is my new board hooked up in purple

I wouldn't recommend it on the Wraith Prism cooler, I don't think it could handle it. I'd suggest motherboard limits and +150. You might see really high temps. If you don't, then try 200. I used a Wraith Cooler for a while on my 3900x when I first got it in 2019- looks pretty but on a 3900x I basically couldn't overclock at all, temps were too high. I'd suggest getting a better cooler if you have the money. A H100i or Liquid Freezer II 240mm would definitely allow you to leave CO alone, set motherboard power limits to the max, and do +200 boost clock. Though I digress, under a gaming load doing +200 and mobo limits might be ok in games because you're really probably only going to see 1-2 threads hitting 4800MHz. If you don't, the chip might not have enough voltage on auto and you might need to apply a positive voltage offset of 0.025v to see it hit those speeds. Until the last bios update, this is what I had to do to see boosts to 5650MHz on CCD2 on my chip. Hope this is helpful. Just remember, set your co stuff back to 0 if you try this route.

What cooler do you have? Personally I just set motherboard limits and leave those alone, so I set current capacity to 140% for both the CPU and IO die and change other stuff in the digi+vrm section. I basically nax out the motherboard limits so it makes those irrelevant, then just set max boost clock override to +200 and enable PBO and I boost high and never crash. Leave voltage on auto. I couldn't understand anything about the CO stuff and that video that was posted earlier in the thread about how to use it was just baffling to me so I don't even bother with CO.

Nah it's like spraypaint. I used it on my fullsize GMMK as well. Just put down some newspaper, and in this case I used two bricks to elevate it, reason being if you directly have it on paper, the overspray will make it stick to the paper, and then when you go to peel off your top plate there will be a layer of it on the paper too and it might stick and pull some of the plastidip off what you are spraying. It's fairly easy, it's basically an aerosolized rubber. As you spray coats, it will build up in a layer. I only did 3 coats on mine. Also if you decide you don't like it, unlike spraypaint, you can peel the stuff off but its tedious. For the Keychron, you will need a bit driver set with a 2mm hex (I believe) as well as a small Phillips screwdriver to be able to open the thing and take the top plate off. Of course, keycaps and switches need to be removed first. Why, do you have a board you want to spray?

A lesson on why you should listen to your wife (if she's a pc builder as good as my wife, anyway). I have my 4090 back from MSI. Since I got it, I had been daisy chaining two 8-pin pci-e power connectors to the 12VHPWR adapter that came with the card. It worked fine for months and I was confident in my power supply (Cooler Master V1000 80+ Gold) however, either over time because of 3 months folding 24/7 or because of P16XXX work units, the cable that was daisy chained melted and even ruined and melted the port it was connected to on the back of the PSU. The entire time, my wife was worried and obsessing over the daisy chained connector but even though I had another cable, I told her it would be fine... Basically, we got the card back from MSI, I tried to run 3dmark11 performance, immediately got no signal on display. This was before we checked the power supply and cable. I then had her put my GT 1030 in, was pretty mad and was thinking we needed to RMA the card again. We decided to put the 4090 back in, and I showed her how to take the psu out (remember my cable management situation on the back side of the case) and she immediately found the fault. So long story short (sorry!) I got the one other pci-e cable I had and we plugged it into a different port, however still had to daisy chain it. Card works fine now. There should still be another connector on the back of the psu we can use (it was made for when people were doing 3x or 4x GPUs) so we ordered another cable off Ebay. However, it is coming from the Netherlands so I might be a few weeks. Until I get it, I am 1) not folding 2) not benching 3) not overclocking Forza Horizon 5 has a rally expansion and even at 3440x1440 144Hz it isn't too demanding on the card, the card sits around 45c. So I'll play that and tear up dirt in my tuned Ford RS200. However - once I have 3 separate 8 pins connected to the adapter, I will be back at it folding 24/7 for the team. And probably not using the Galaxy 666w power limit bios @damric@Sir Beregond

Done. Can be added to my list, please. Keychron K8 Pro TKL, custom Plum Crazy plastidip, Kailh Box Navies, Captain O-ring blue o-rings, SDYZ Great Wave Off Kanagawa keycaps.

Switches, o-rings and keycaps.

Spray station for the top plate Plastidip. One coat so far. About to do another. Cardboard with two regular ass red bricks to elevate it. Since Plastidip in multiple coats sticks to cardboard or newspaper. Edit: 3 coats sprayed. Letting it dry overnight before reassembling the board. Then I'll have to do switches, keycaps and o-rings.

4 min. Omg.

That's weird because with my 5900x just setting max boost clock override to +200 and PBO_Fmax Enhancer (Asus exclusive) would get me to 5150MHz in games.

Boost clock override does exactly what you would think. So every different Ryzen processor essentially has "stock" boost clocks, if you have a 5600 I'm not sure what that would be. However, on my 7900X3D (Zen 4 is no different) the stock boost clocks seem to be 5450MHz maximum, though it won't maintain that for long. The processor is advertised (I think) to boost to 5650MHz max and that's the max fused boost clock limit that shows up in my bios. So in my case, I set max boost clock override to +200 and it will boost to 5650MHz on my second CCD (my first CCD with the extra L3 cache only does 5150MHz.) With 1usmus Ryzen Balanced Optimized power profile, I've seen 5600MHz max on core 7,8 and 5650MHz on 9,10,11, znd 12. If you go Here: https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/amd-ryzen-5-5600x And scroll down a lot you will see the specifications for your processor. It says max boost clock is 4600MHz so doing max boost clock override to +200 would boost you to 4800MHz potentially but only on your best quality cores and only for brief periods of time. If you set scalar to 10x, you will see it for longer and more often. Of course at the cost of more heat. Sorry this is so long but I hope it helps. Generally, you wanna use either PBO with high limits and boost clock override, but probably not CO with it at the same time- though Sir B might know more about using them together.

Got my keycaps and switches today. The Box Navies were $50 instead of like $30 on NovelKeys but *shrug* Keychron K8 Pro disassembled enough to spray the top plate with Plastidip plum crazy. Glad the Keychron has removable rails so I don't need to mask anything off with masking tape, but unhappy that the "aluminum" case is actually plastic on the inside and just aluminum rails on the sides.

Yeah I haven't tried it much myself but since it hadn't been posted just thought I'd share it.

Ok, I have the Keychron K8 Pro TKL now. It's decent to just ok with Gateron blue switches. I think they kinda suck tbh. We have a Rosewill K85 with Kailh blues and they are definitely superior- louder click, tighter spring and higher actuation force from what I can tell. Anyway, I ordered 90 Kailh Box Navies off Amazon. I also ordered SDYZ dye sub Great Wave Off Kanagawa keycap set. To match the keycaps, I also ordered some Classic Muscle Car plum crazy plastidip. So I will be disassembling the Keychron fully, masking off the top edges of it, and spraying the top plate with the plum crazy plastidip which I think will match those keycaps well. Depending on the finish of the plum crazy, I may also spray it with Plastidip pearlizer. In the process I will probably take a look at the stabs and despite everyone saying the Keychron stabs are really good, I might clip and lube them as well. This should be a fun project

Sorry to double post. I did some research and found this: /icons/patreon/42832438 "HYDRA 1.3F PRO - RELEASED!" by 1usmus from Patreon | Kemono KEMONO.PARTY You both might want to look into this app, supposedly it can find CO limits for you on it's own, and it can also bypass boost clock restrictions from AMD. There's also support for generating DDR5 timings, which in my case was what I was most interested in, but with my B-Die it didn't work (clicking on generate timings did nothing). Hope this helps.

Yeah this was recommended by The_Stilt back in the day. And all the documentation on that page is incredibly useful and written by him. I highly suggest reading the whole thing (the AMD section at least) The unfortunate part of this is that if Thaiphoon Burner can't read your ICs and you can't export a profile in ns, you are unable to use Ryzen Dram Calculator and import your profile, then generate timings for your specific kit. However, there is something you can do if you figure out what type of ICs you have, which is to set Dram Calculator to Ryzen 2nd gen, pick your ICs from the list, pick your frequency and click generate safe. This will probably give you something to work with if you want to get your speed higher with tightened timings and the crucial secondary and tertiary timings set. Then just take a picture of your screen with your phone, or use snipping tool then print it off and get going in your bios.

Tightening timings or raising frequency is a really good idea. The sweet spot for Ryzen 3000/5000 is 3733MHz/1866MHz fclk, or 3800/1900 if you can do it. In the chart I mentioned in my last post about the 3900x vs 9900k, it was once the memory was at 3733MHz/1866 with good secondary and tertiary timings that it passed the 9900k significantly across about 20 games. Going from 3600 to 3733 can translate to like a 5% performance boost in games, possibly more. How much memory are you running? 16 or 32GB? If you can deal with 16GB and the system is primarily a gaming system, I cannot recommend that G.skill Flare X 3200 c14 kit enough. Thaiphoon Burner will recognize it and DRAM calc will spit out timings for 3733/3800, or I could post screencaps of mine.. Hope this helps.

So, MSI has shipped me a 4090. The weird thing is, on the RMA status page, it said like 15:56 Repairing 15:57 Shipped So either they are sending me a new card because they checked in just a minute and saw mine was fried badly enough it needed to be replaced, OR they are shipping me my old card and it will have the same issues. I won't know until I get it, I guess. Also I bought a keyboard for my build: a Keychron K8 Pro TKL RGB aluminum case. It will come with Gateron blue switches which I will use for a few months, and eventually change the switches to Kailh Box Navies, probably with WASD red o-rings. It'll be here Saturday, really excited. I will also be keeping the stock keycaps as I really like how they look.

I'm having the early adopter problems myself and am wondering if I should have kept what I had before (C8H/5900x/B-Die 3733MHz). I had some issues with my 2nd CCD not boosting particularly in low res older 3dmark benchmarks. However, the last BIOS update fixed it. In 3dmark06 I see a locked 5625MHz on my 2nd CCD now. But the system still takes a very long time to POST unfortunately with any memory overclock. It's not fun being a beta tester for Asus and AMD but I had similar issues when I got a 3900x and C8H in 2019 and they were all eventually fixed. It is wise to wait, but I love my new processor. Aside from that- I wanted to be ready for Zen 5, so that's why I opted for a Zen 4 setup. I will upgrade to Zen 5 as soon as it comes out, and I'm really hoping they increase the core count on consumer/normal chips this time.

I haven't read the whole topic, but personally I had no problems just setting PBO to Enabled, PBO_Fmax Enhancer (Asus exclusive) to Enabled, and +200. However, I had a Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360mm on my 5900x before I upgraded. Anyone else telling you memory is important is correct, I remember seeing charts comparing the 3900x to the 9900k in 2019, in about 20 games, with the Ryzen memory at different clocks. When it had 3800/1900MHz memory and Ifclk, the average performance increase across like 20 games over the 9900k was about 25%. So you really need to push your IFclk as high as it can go and memory as well. https://www.amazon.com/G-SKILL-Flare-288-Pin-Memory-F4-3200C14D-16GFX/dp/B06XFT7DF9/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=g.skill+flare+x+3200+cas+14&qid=1681936762&sr=8-3 If you have the money and are willing to try, that memory is guaranteed B-Die single rank and what I used with my 3900x at 3800/1900. Use Thaiphoon Burner and Ryzen DRAM Calculator to figure out timings. That memory is clocked at 3200 but I was able to clock mine to 4266 out of ratio which is 15 dividers higher than what it's rated at. I cannot stress enough how important high ram speed in 1:1 ratio at good timings is for Zen 3. Hope this helps.

Keychron K8 Pro TKL RGB with Gateron blue switches. We had a $40 discount code for some keycaps we ordered in 2020 that were continually on backorder, we asked for a refund and they gave us a coupon code instead. Keychron K8 Pro Aluminum TKL Hotswap Bluetooth RGB Win + Mac Mechanical Keyboard MECHANICALKEYBOARDS.COM Switch options: Gateron G Pro Red, G Pro Blue, G Pro Brown So we paid $69 instead of $109. Eventually it'll have Kailh Box Navy switches and o-rings though I'm not sure what type/color of o-rings to use. Keeping the stock keycaps as they are PBT and i love the way they look.