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2006 Honda S2000 build log


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296 269
On 28/06/2022 at 19:17, Diffident said:

Have you changed your brake hoses?  Recently I had a brake caliper that would stick sometimes, so I replaced my calipers along with rotors and pads and since I had to bleed the system anyway...I replaced all the fluid.   Next day, the same wheel locked up so tight the wheel was smoking like it may have been on fire.  The lug nuts were so hot I couldn't touch them.  My shiny new rotor was now purple.  

 

It was a bad brake hose.  It looks good from the outside but the inside swells up restricting flow which causes the caliper to not release.

Yeah... I just changed them to Goodridge stainless steel brake hoses and DOT5.1 fluid. Upon replacing the calipers it seems fine so hopefully it wasn't the brake hoses.

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Gave the car a big wash today, started off with some CarPro lift foam to remove as much gunk (and old wax) as possible. Then moved onto using IronX to remove iron fallout (considering the brake failure that just happened) and cleaned the wheels too. Moved onto a wash with CarPro Reset with some lovely 350gsm plush microfibre towels. Once done I used an ultra fine claybar and some claybar lube to get rid of the fine contamants in the paint. Lastly once all dry I applied a nice layer of Collinite 845. I love this wax, gives a super great depth and shine albeit it doesn't last very long at all. I am seriously considering getting my car ceramic coated and just topping that up myself with something like CarPro Reload... it'll probably be quicker and more durable. Heck, if I still want I can put the wax on top of that even.

 

 

Pictures of the washing process:

 

3usPMQ4.jpg

 

4YSOkDq.jpg

 

YiApnvk.jpg

 

UrAQ2dX.jpg

 

iWAi7Ai.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

After Pictures

 

FtDYGXJ.jpg

 

wxjqxEL.jpg

 

 

 

I also tried polishing the glass but it wasn't very successful, I think I might try again with more time or just give up and replace the glass (it's like $1200 though...)

 

 

 

Pics of the thousands of tiny chips in the glass

iFmkYqx.jpg

 

ZvNYVXK.jpg

 

 

 

I also replaced the valve cover, spark plug cover and coolant resevoir bottle! I think the refreshed valve cover definitely looks a lot better than the old one. I didn't realise how bad of a condition it was in until I got it out of the car and put it side by side.

 

Before

 

d4O2Rsg.jpg

 

1912HFu.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

After

Jlp9wlW.jpg

 

HAXlflq.jpg

 

 

 

 

Side by side

 

jkeZbGT.jpg

Edited by Alex
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On 03/07/2022 at 22:40, Alex said:

Gave the car a big wash today, started off with some CarPro lift foam to remove as much gunk (and old wax) as possible. Then moved onto using IronX to remove iron fallout (considering the brake failure that just happened) and cleaned the wheels too. Moved onto a wash with CarPro Reset with some lovely 350gsm plush microfibre towels. Once done I used an ultra fine claybar and some claybar lube to get rid of the fine contamants in the paint. Lastly once all dry I applied a nice layer of Collinite 845. I love this wax, gives a super great depth and shine albeit it doesn't last very long at all. I am seriously considering getting my car ceramic coated and just topping that up myself with something like CarPro Reload... it'll probably be quicker and more durable. Heck, if I still want I can put the wax on top of that even.

 

 

Pictures of the washing process:

 

3usPMQ4.jpg

 

4YSOkDq.jpg

 

YiApnvk.jpg

 

UrAQ2dX.jpg

 

iWAi7Ai.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

After Pictures

 

FtDYGXJ.jpg

 

wxjqxEL.jpg

 

 

 

I also tried polishing the glass but it wasn't very successful, I think I might try again with more time or just give up and replace the glass (it's like $1200 though...)

 

 

 

Pics of the thousands of tiny chips in the glass

iFmkYqx.jpg

 

ZvNYVXK.jpg

 

 

 

I also replaced the valve cover, spark plug cover and coolant resevoir bottle! I think the refreshed valve cover definitely looks a lot better than the old one. I didn't realise how bad of a condition it was in until I got it out of the car and put it side by side.

 

Before

 

d4O2Rsg.jpg

 

1912HFu.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

After

Jlp9wlW.jpg

 

HAXlflq.jpg

 

 

 

 

Side by side

 

jkeZbGT.jpg

immo need you to do one thing.......you must choose but choose wisely.

 

SPOON or MUGEN 

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7 hours ago, PCSarge said:

immo need you to do one thing.......you must choose but choose wisely.

 

SPOON or MUGEN 

I mean obviously Spoon

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The in-house Honda tuner probably would have been Spoon if it weren't for nepotism. Mugen weren't that good in the 70s and they aren't that good now.

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6 hours ago, Alex said:

I mean obviously Spoon

i mean your car is sunrise yellow....so it would make sense to spoon

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1 hour ago, Andrew said:

The in-house Honda tuner probably would have been Spoon if it weren't for nepotism. Mugen weren't that good in the 70s and they aren't that good now.

mugen works better on some models than others, i know a guy with a CRX thats complete eurospec mugen and its pretty clean

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On 28/06/2022 at 17:17, Diffident said:

Have you changed your brake hoses?  Recently I had a brake caliper that would stick sometimes, so I replaced my calipers along with rotors and pads and since I had to bleed the system anyway...I replaced all the fluid.   Next day, the same wheel locked up so tight the wheel was smoking like it may have been on fire.  The lug nuts were so hot I couldn't touch them.  My shiny new rotor was now purple.  

 

It was a bad brake hose.  It looks good from the outside but the inside swells up restricting flow which causes the caliper to not release.

I just did a brake job on my car over the weekend and the numbnuts who last touched my brakes didn't bother to lubricate the rear caliper slide pins. Pads were horribly uneven in wear. Further confirmation of not letting anyone work on my car if I can help it.

 

Anyway, love this S2000, such a great car.

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1 hour ago, Sir Beregond said:

I just did a brake job on my car over the weekend and the numbnuts who last touched my brakes didn't bother to lubricate the rear caliper slide pins. Pads were horribly uneven in wear. Further confirmation of not letting anyone work on my car if I can help it.

 

Anyway, love this S2000, such a great car.

Ironically I was super careful about brakes and I wanted professionals to do it instead of myself... lol. I do have all the tools to change it I just need to take some time to do it myself and learn.

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26 minutes ago, Alex said:

Ironically I was super careful about brakes and I wanted professionals to do it instead of myself... lol. I do have all the tools to change it I just need to take some time to do it myself and learn.

It was actually my first time doing brakes. I had a buddy teach me and guide me while doing it.

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Installed a Recaro Pole Position seat on a PCI slider rail last night, it was a struggle and took around 3-4 hours of constantly taking it in/out and adjusting it. It's extremely tight in there and makes clearances really hard. The airbag/SRS light came on when installing even with the seatbelt sensor plugged it but I found out why, there's a magnetic sensor on the stock rail that's essentially detecting if the seat is in or not. I just need to transplant that to the new rail/seat. Problem is now removing it, the screw is a T25 (which I have the bit for) but it's made out of butter and it feels like the used red loctite on it. Tried heating it and being gentle with it, but almost stripped it. So just taking a break for now. Also learned that the light is on but the airbag will still deploy, it's just a warning that "something" is wrong with the SRS system.

 

The silver bolts and green tape are temporary. Just waiting for some nice black bolts/washers to come from ARP. Also going to get a seatbelt extension as the oem location is *really* tight with the seat in.

 

 

IMG_1739.jpg

 

IMG_1740.jpg

 

IMG_1737.jpg

 

 

 

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11 hours ago, Alex said:

Installed a Recaro Pole Position seat on a PCI slider rail last night, it was a struggle and took around 3-4 hours of constantly taking it in/out and adjusting it. It's extremely tight in there and makes clearances really hard. The airbag/SRS light came on when installing even with the seatbelt sensor plugged it but I found out why, there's a magnetic sensor on the stock rail that's essentially detecting if the seat is in or not. I just need to transplant that to the new rail/seat. Problem is now removing it, the screw is a T25 (which I have the bit for) but it's made out of butter and it feels like the used red loctite on it. Tried heating it and being gentle with it, but almost stripped it. So just taking a break for now. Also learned that the light is on but the airbag will still deploy, it's just a warning that "something" is wrong with the SRS system.

 

The silver bolts and green tape are temporary. Just waiting for some nice black bolts/washers to come from ARP. Also going to get a seatbelt extension as the oem location is *really* tight with the seat in.

 

 

IMG_1739.jpg

 

IMG_1740.jpg

 

IMG_1737.jpg

 

 

 

 

Looks good! Any plans for the passenger seat?

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2 hours ago, Supercrumpet said:

 

Looks good! Any plans for the passenger seat?

Almost certainly not, the airbag/weight sensor in the passenger seat is essentially un-foolable so it would permanently be on... which is really annoying. I might consider it in the distant future when we have a house/secondary car though

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Take care with the Air Bag sensor. My old hyundai i had years ago had issue with the belt buckle sensor. And it would turn the light on disable the airbag at the same time. Kinda dumb as a design.  Never crashed it so am lucky

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6 hours ago, bonami2 said:

Take care with the Air Bag sensor. My old hyundai i had years ago had issue with the belt buckle sensor. And it would turn the light on disable the airbag at the same time. Kinda dumb as a design.  Never crashed it so am lucky

There's a lot of information on S2ki and the local S2000 group who run a seat, even one guy that had that and crashed at the track and the airbags deployed. So I'm fairly confident they still will *but* the end goal is to fix it regardless. Just a bit busy at the moment with other things.

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CPU: F22C | 257hp 251nm
CPU COOLER: K&N FIPK Intake | AEM filter
GPU: Yokohama AD08R 255/40r17
CPU COOLER 2: Titan 7 R-10s 17x9.5+51
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OPERATING SYSTEM: Hondata
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296 269

IMG_1793.jpg

 

managed to put the magnetic sensor on the new seat, wasn't so bad once I had the right tools - and no more SRS airbag light!

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AUDIO: Topping DX7 Pro
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CPU: F22C | 257hp 251nm
CPU COOLER: K&N FIPK Intake | AEM filter
GPU: Yokohama AD08R 255/40r17
CPU COOLER 2: Titan 7 R-10s 17x9.5+51
AUDIO: Alpine UTE73BT + Modifry DCI
MOTHERBOARD: Öhlins Road & Track DFV Coilovers
OPERATING SYSTEM: Hondata
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How well do you fit in it?

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CPU: i7 9570H
GPU: AMD 5300m
RAM: 16GB
SSD/NVME: 512GB
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CPU: 5800X
GPU: RTX 2070
RAM: 32GB
SSD/NVME: 500GB 960 Evo
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3 hours ago, Andrew said:

How well do you fit in it?

Fairly good, it's a little bit big for me (which is actually nice on the street) but a lot more comfortable than I thought. I thought it'd be a lot harsher (ie; I'd feel a lot more of the bumps/etc) and while it's true to some extent, I think the much newer foam than the OEM seats helps a bunch. It's actually not that bad. Only thing that is bad is the lack of lumbar support for long trips.

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SSD/NVME: 2x SN850X 4TB | 1x 970 Pro 0.5TB
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AUDIO: Topping DX7 Pro
AUDIO 2: Sennheiser HD800S
AUDIO 3: Sennheiser HD650
AUDIO 4: Sennheiser HD 4.50 BTNC
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AUDIO 6: Custom XLR balanced cables
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CPU: F22C | 257hp 251nm
CPU COOLER: K&N FIPK Intake | AEM filter
GPU: Yokohama AD08R 255/40r17
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AUDIO: Alpine UTE73BT + Modifry DCI
MOTHERBOARD: Öhlins Road & Track DFV Coilovers
OPERATING SYSTEM: Hondata
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  • 2 months later...

Turns out S2000s just love to go through clutch and brake fluid, cape up with my own ghetto solution to replace it more easily and honestly it's worked a charm. This will really help when I take the car out of storage and need to replace all the fluids too.

FppZTdI.jpg

 

J9RnQUi.jpg

 

RPIaCul.jpg

 

The only container I had on hand, but a spray bottle of used brake fluid seems pretty evil somehow.

 

CgiS8vX.jpg

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AUDIO: Topping DX7 Pro
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CPU: F22C | 257hp 251nm
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GPU: Yokohama AD08R 255/40r17
CPU COOLER 2: Titan 7 R-10s 17x9.5+51
AUDIO: Alpine UTE73BT + Modifry DCI
MOTHERBOARD: Öhlins Road & Track DFV Coilovers
OPERATING SYSTEM: Hondata
CASE: Recaro Pole Position
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Are you going to keep that spray bottle in the kitchen to confuse guests? 

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CPU: 5900X + Optimus block
MOTHERBOARD: MSI X570 Ace
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CPU: 7800X3D
MOTHERBOARD: B650E-I Strix
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CPU: 12600KF
MOTHERBOARD: Z790I Strix
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13 minutes ago, Fluxmaven said:

Are you going to keep that spray bottle in the kitchen to confuse guests? 

There is this person in our neighbourhood who constantly dumps their household garbage in the park bins and then when that is full just litters everywhere in the park. They're not smart enough to not include trash that has their name and address on it...

 

Would be a shame if someone did a drive-by-spraying on their $100k+ worth of SUVs 🤣

 

 

(to be clear, I won't, but I have been tempted to)

Edited by Alex

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SSD/NVME: 2x SN850X 4TB | 1x 970 Pro 0.5TB
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CPU: F22C | 257hp 251nm
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GPU: Yokohama AD08R 255/40r17
CPU COOLER 2: Titan 7 R-10s 17x9.5+51
AUDIO: Alpine UTE73BT + Modifry DCI
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OPERATING SYSTEM: Hondata
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29 minutes ago, Alex said:

They're not smart enough to not include trash that has their name and address on it...

 

I'd dump the trash on their car with a nice note saying "sorry I think you misplaced this." 

 

If I had time, I'd probably pull their valve stem cores and leave those in a little plastic baggie mixed in with the trash.

 

Can't stand people that litter. 

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Tried out a drying aide / topper (Xtreme Solutions Topper) and it's really amazing, makes the drying process a lot easier (less water spotting that I need to clean up with the air blower) and adds a little extra gloss to the surface. Glad I got the 5L jug of this stuff though as you tend to go through around 250ml per application. See if you can spot the bug that landed on my car... yellow is an absolute bee/insect magnet.

 

tndfs4d.jpg

JBdNUTS.jpg

3DRXv5g.jpg

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SSD/NVME: 2x SN850X 4TB | 1x 970 Pro 0.5TB
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AUDIO: Topping DX7 Pro
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CPU: F22C | 257hp 251nm
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  • 7 months later...
Content Creator
296 269

Went to my mechanic to just do a once-over now that it's time to drive the car again, and replace the fluids as well. Good thing I did because where the axles bolt to the diff was dangerously loose...

 

IMG_0342.jpg

 

 

Much better...

 

IMG_0345.jpg

 

That explains why it was so terrible to drive... I thought the rubber bushings broke...

 

 

Drincc well oil man

 

IMG_0343.jpg

 

 

 

Stock mounts don't look bad for 106k km and 17 years old;

IMG_0340.jpg

 

IMG_0339.jpg

 

Edited by Alex
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CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 - 7950X3D
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RAM: G.Skill 64GB @ 6000Mhz
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SSD/NVME: 2x SN850X 4TB | 1x 970 Pro 0.5TB
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AUDIO: Topping DX7 Pro
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AUDIO 3: Sennheiser HD650
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AUDIO 5: Edifier RT1700BT
AUDIO 6: Custom XLR balanced cables
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CPU: F22C | 257hp 251nm
CPU COOLER: K&N FIPK Intake | AEM filter
GPU: Yokohama AD08R 255/40r17
CPU COOLER 2: Titan 7 R-10s 17x9.5+51
AUDIO: Alpine UTE73BT + Modifry DCI
MOTHERBOARD: Öhlins Road & Track DFV Coilovers
OPERATING SYSTEM: Hondata
CASE: Recaro Pole Position
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  • 4 weeks later...
Content Creator
296 269

Took some nice pictures of my car after ceramic coating it. While it may look decent, there are some high spots on the bonnet and some light marring. Still need to polish it and use a proper ceramic coating.

 

ecIRVZ5.jpg

 

cNR0SlL.jpg

 

up1GIS8.jpg

 

tlDiDiL.jpg

 

flnh9i2.jpg

 

Zq8eVvC.jpg

 

zz0B4FZ.jpg

 

BJrqplV.jpg

 

leoIFi7.jpg

 

zp5gWWe.jpg

 

yrnEMJH.jpg

 

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CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 - 7950X3D
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SSD/NVME: 2x SN850X 4TB | 1x 970 Pro 0.5TB
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WC CPU BLOCK: Heatkiller IV Pro
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AUDIO: Topping DX7 Pro
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AUDIO 3: Sennheiser HD650
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CPU: F22C | 257hp 251nm
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GPU: Yokohama AD08R 255/40r17
CPU COOLER 2: Titan 7 R-10s 17x9.5+51
AUDIO: Alpine UTE73BT + Modifry DCI
MOTHERBOARD: Öhlins Road & Track DFV Coilovers
OPERATING SYSTEM: Hondata
CASE: Recaro Pole Position
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