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13900k + Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 BUILD LOG


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Hello all! Am starting my first External Watercooling setup and will need some advice on the setup and part list 😄

 

Here my build:

Intel 13900k Waiting to receive it!

OLOY 4000mhz cl14 gear 1 2x16gb

Sapphire 6800XT

Msi Z690 A Pro 

 

Now to the part list:

 

Radiator: Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 1080mm

 

Fan: Arctic P12 120mm

 

Radiator Feet: Some aliexpress Radiator Feet i ordered aluminium for 20$.

 

Waterblock LGA 1700: Ordered a byskski block from Aliexpress. For 45$ it nickel and acrylic. Seem like nickel and copper work together?

 

Fitting:  Bitspower 

 

PUMP and Res combo : Thermaltake D5

 

External Fan Controller? Custom Power Supply with a fan controller.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by bonami2
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MONITOR: [Monitor] LG CX48 OLED [VR] Samsung HMD Odyssey Plus OLED + Meta Quest 2 120hz
CASE: CoolerMaster NR200P White Mini ITX
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CPU: Ryzen 5560u
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HDD: 8TB + 4TB HDD + 2 x Intel DC S3500 800GB
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I use the P12's a bunch personally.  Absolutely love those fans for their price / performance.  Good static pressure on them too, so they should do a fine job on a radiator.  I've got mine on AIO rads.

 

For the rest, IDK because I haven't done water cooling since like 2009 or so.  :lachen:

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CPU: Ryzen 7900x
GPU: Sapphire Pulse RX 7900XTX
PSU: Cooler Master 850w Platinum
CPU COOLER: Cooler Master MasterLiquid PL360 Flux
MOTHERBOARD: Gigabyte B650 Aorus AX
SSD/NVME: Solidigm P41 Plus 2TB Gen4 NVME
RAM: G.Skill Flare X DDR5-6000
CASE: HAF700 Berserker
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CPU: AMD Opteron 180 @ 3.0GHz
MOTHERBOARD: Asus A8N SLI
RAM: 4x1GB Corsair XMS DDR400 @ 2.5-3-3-6
PSU: eVGA 600BQ
GPU: Sapphire HD5870
SOUNDCARD: Asus Xonar DG
OPTICAL: DVDRW with Lightscribe
SSD/NVME: 64GB HP 2.5" SSD
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CPU: AMD Athlon 1100MHz
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RAM: 2x256MB Corsair XMS DDR400 @ 133MHz / CAS2
PSU: Antec 350w
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This is going to be a helpful thread to watch as im considering an external RAD for my WC setup! Though im looking at the MO-RA products at the moment.  

 

Will have my own thread up soon as I have my own noob questions lol. Look forward to watching this one play out. 

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CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7950X3D
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RAM: Corsair Dominator Titanium 64GB (6000MT/s)
GPU: EVGA 3090 FTW Ultra Gaming
SSD/NVME: Corsair MP700 Pro Gen 5 2TB
PSU: EVGA Supernova T2 1600Watt
CASE: be quiet Dark Base Pro 900 Rev 2
FANS: Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC x 6
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CPU: Intel Core i5 8500
RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) Kingston 2666Mhz
SSD/NVME: 256GB Samsung NVMe
NETWORK: HP 561T 10Gbe (Intel X540 T2)
MOTHERBOARD: Proprietry
GPU: Intel UHD Graphics 630
PSU: 90Watt
CASE: HP EliteDesk 800 G4 SFF
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CPU: 2 x Xeon|E5-2696-V4 (44C/88T)
RAM: 128GB|16 x 8GB - DDR4 2400MHz (2Rx8)
MOTHERBOARD: HP Z840|Intel C612 Chipset
GPU: Nvidia Quadro P2200
HDD: 4x 16TB Toshiba MG08ACA16TE Enterprise
SSD/NVME: Intel 512GB 670p NVMe (Main OS)
SSD/NVME 2: Samsung 1TB 980 NVMe (VM's)
SSD/NVME 3: 2x Seagate FireCuda 1TB SSD's (Apps)
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Thank you all for the support! Sold on the p12. Gonna use rubber stick feet for the rad i think it should work it so heavy it won't tip off and i don't have any cat or kid!

 

Big thank you to Avacado 😄

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CPU: Intel 13900k + Top Mounted 280mm Aio
RAM: 2x24gb Gskill 6400 cl36-48-48 1.4v
PSU: Cooler Master V850 SFX Gold White Edition
GPU: UHD ULTRA EXTREME BANANA GRAPHIC
MONITOR: [Monitor] LG CX48 OLED [VR] Samsung HMD Odyssey Plus OLED + Meta Quest 2 120hz
CASE: CoolerMaster NR200P White Mini ITX
SSD/NVME: 2TB Intel 660p 1tb sn850 1tb sn770
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CPU: Asus Strix G15 AE 6800m 5900hx 32gb ram 1440p
RAM: MSI GT60 Dominator 870m 4800MQ
GPU: Alienware M11x R2 i7 640um Nvidia 335m 8gb Ram
MONITOR: Lenovo X270 1080p i7 7600u 16gb ram
SSD/NVME: Acer Chromebook 11.6
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CPU: Ryzen 5560u
MOTHERBOARD: Beelink SER5 Mini PC Box
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HDD: 8TB + 4TB HDD + 2 x Intel DC S3500 800GB
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5 hours ago, bonami2 said:

Thank you all for the support! Sold on the p12. Gonna use rubber stick feet for the rad i think it should work it so heavy it won't tip off and i don't have any cat or kid!

 

Big thank you to Avacado 😄

For things like feet or anything else like that, don't forget you can always go visit a hardware store too if you already happen to have basic tools on hand.  It's amazing the kinds of things you can pickup at a hardware store and just simply drill a hole in, or stuff some glue on to make it work.  Doesn't hurt to go looking. 🙂  Especially if you're looking at little bits of rubber that cost way too much.  You can probably grab furniture feet at the hardware store for like $5 that'd stick on and do the job fine.  Just an idea. 👍

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CPU: Ryzen 7900x
GPU: Sapphire Pulse RX 7900XTX
PSU: Cooler Master 850w Platinum
CPU COOLER: Cooler Master MasterLiquid PL360 Flux
MOTHERBOARD: Gigabyte B650 Aorus AX
SSD/NVME: Solidigm P41 Plus 2TB Gen4 NVME
RAM: G.Skill Flare X DDR5-6000
CASE: HAF700 Berserker
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CPU: AMD Opteron 180 @ 3.0GHz
MOTHERBOARD: Asus A8N SLI
RAM: 4x1GB Corsair XMS DDR400 @ 2.5-3-3-6
PSU: eVGA 600BQ
GPU: Sapphire HD5870
SOUNDCARD: Asus Xonar DG
OPTICAL: DVDRW with Lightscribe
SSD/NVME: 64GB HP 2.5" SSD
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CPU: AMD Athlon 1100MHz
MOTHERBOARD: ECS K7S5A
RAM: 2x256MB Corsair XMS DDR400 @ 133MHz / CAS2
PSU: Antec 350w
GPU: ATI Radeon 9800 PRO
SOUNDCARD: Creative Live! 5.1
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Just now seeing this and I'm not at my PC so I'm not going to write a whole novel but I have a couple different external setups (not including the ghetto HWBOT loop you've seen). Tomorrow after work I'll type up an overview of different options of what could work for your setup.

 

Quick things to note, 1/2x3/4" tubing works well since it's thick walled and doesn't kink easily. Koolance QD4 quick disconnects are a good option for reliable QD fittings with minimal flow restriction. 

 

Another vote for P12's. Have had 9x of them on one of my external setups for 2+ years with zero issues. 

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CPU: 5900X + Optimus block
MOTHERBOARD: MSI X570 Ace
GPU: EVGA RTX 3090 FTW3 Ultra + Optimus block
RAM: 32GB Oloy Blade 3600CL14
SSD/NVME: 1TB SN750 Black
SSD/NVME 2: 1TB SN750 Black
SSD/NVME 3: 2TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus
CASE: LD PC-V7
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CPU: 7800X3D
MOTHERBOARD: B650E-I Strix
RAM: G.Skill Flare X5
GPU: Reference 6950 XT
CASE: InWin D-Frame Mini
WC RADIATOR: MO-RA3 with 4x180mm Silverstone fans
FAN CONTROLLER: Aquaero
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CPU: 12600KF
MOTHERBOARD: Z790I Strix
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo
GPU: RTX 2080
CASE: Sliger SM580
WC RESEVOIR: Phanteks R160C
WC RADIATOR: XSPC TX240 Ultrathin
FANS: Phanteks T30
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5 hours ago, pioneerisloud said:

For things like feet or anything else like that, don't forget you can always go visit a hardware store too if you already happen to have basic tools on hand.  It's amazing the kinds of things you can pickup at a hardware store and just simply drill a hole in, or stuff some glue on to make it work.  Doesn't hurt to go looking. 🙂  Especially if you're looking at little bits of rubber that cost way too much.  You can probably grab furniture feet at the hardware store for like $5 that'd stick on and do the job fine.  Just an idea. 👍

 

Good idea that what am trying to find on amazon but i think il go to the store this week.  Am thinking of installing it either in my windows or on top of the case but am worried about leak on top.

 

4 hours ago, Fluxmaven said:

Just now seeing this and I'm not at my PC so I'm not going to write a whole novel but I have a couple different external setups (not including the ghetto HWBOT loop you've seen). Tomorrow after work I'll type up an overview of different options of what could work for your setup.

 

Quick things to note, 1/2x3/4" tubing works well since it's thick walled and doesn't kink easily. Koolance QD4 quick disconnects are a good option for reliable QD fittings with minimal flow restriction. 

 

Another vote for P12's. Have had 9x of them on one of my external setups for 2+ years with zero issues. 

Thank you alot 😄 Am doing this for the performance and not really the look so am not too worried. I read a little about the fitting thing. Need to figure where i can get those to canada and figure tubing size that go with it. 

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PSU: Cooler Master V850 SFX Gold White Edition
GPU: UHD ULTRA EXTREME BANANA GRAPHIC
MONITOR: [Monitor] LG CX48 OLED [VR] Samsung HMD Odyssey Plus OLED + Meta Quest 2 120hz
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CPU: Asus Strix G15 AE 6800m 5900hx 32gb ram 1440p
RAM: MSI GT60 Dominator 870m 4800MQ
GPU: Alienware M11x R2 i7 640um Nvidia 335m 8gb Ram
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CPU: Ryzen 5560u
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Update Ordered a Byskski Block nickel plated. And some feet for the radiator. And fan 😄

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RAM: 2x24gb Gskill 6400 cl36-48-48 1.4v
PSU: Cooler Master V850 SFX Gold White Edition
GPU: UHD ULTRA EXTREME BANANA GRAPHIC
MONITOR: [Monitor] LG CX48 OLED [VR] Samsung HMD Odyssey Plus OLED + Meta Quest 2 120hz
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SSD/NVME: 2TB Intel 660p 1tb sn850 1tb sn770
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GPU: Alienware M11x R2 i7 640um Nvidia 335m 8gb Ram
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Sorry, I said I'd run through everything when I got home from work but wasn't feeling great so I laid down to take a "quick" nap and was out for a couple hours.

 

For convenience of moving things around I feel like quick disconnect fittings are a must. After doing plenty of research and now with years of experience using them my recommendation is to go with Koolance. They aren't cheap, but they work well and come in several different configurations. I did hear mixed reviews about the black fittings and picked some up anyway and the finish does chip off after you disconnect and reconnect a few times. Hasn't caused me any issues aside from looking a bit unsightly. 


For one of my builds I went with QD3 with 1/2x3/4' female ends and G1/4 male ends. I did this so I could hard mount one side to a metal bracket with passthroughs. This looks nicer when the rad is disconnected but it makes the loop totally useless unless the external is connected. I'll go over what I mean by that when I get to the next setup.image.thumb.jpeg.b20256496e91c880337176dda327e6d2.jpeg

I don't have any better pics of this but you can probably make out the line all the way around the fitting where the black finish chipped off.

image.thumb.jpeg.7eb7ea632602369851c24c53461d0a62.jpeg

 

For my main setup I used a PCI passthrough bracket and ran a couple feet of tubing then put QD4 fittings with 1/2x3/4" on both male and female sides. Having the fittings halfway down the tubing is nice because I can separate the external setup from the PC and connect the ends together to fill and bleed each section separately since I have pumps on both. I have a D5 pump and two rads internally so I can use the system completely without the external setup If I want. 

WWW.DAZMODE.COM

image.thumb.png.93ebb58de8cef8f64c739606208975db.png

Here's a size comparison of QD3 and QD4. The QD4's are larger and have less flow restriction.

image.thumb.jpeg.89cc2c97626c0701bd7321d3ca3b03a5.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.fb9bc4becb66ae022de507262839b9d5.jpeg

For both of my setups I just ran long ass Molex power cables to fan controllers on the external setups. The one with a legit MO-RA3 uses an Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 pushing 4x 180mm. 

 

The other external setup is a Aquacomputer PowerAdjust3 Ultra into a Splitty9 with 9x Arctic P12. Not going into too much detail since it's an old controller they probably don't sell anymore but going non PWM made things even cheaper. Got the 3pin Arctic P12 value packs for $20 per 5 fans. 

I actually have a whole build thread on that setup so I won't clog up your thread any more posting all the pics from that but here's a link if you want to sift through that.

WWW.OVERCLOCK.NET

If I were going to mount the rad somewhere way further from the PC I'd run a little Mean Well PSU to power a D5 and a fan controller... Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/LRS-100-12-Switching-Supply-Single-Output/dp/B019GYOMN6/ref=sr_1_15?crid=8DVE10SU9FUF I'd rather cut the cables and wire up to something like that than to run a bunch of adapters to run it off a Molex wall adapter 

 

As far as fittings go, it's really just a personal preference thing. I have or have tried just about every major brand. I have stuck with mostly Bitspower and Monsoon. Cheaper fittings like Barrow work just fine but some of their rotary angle fittings can feel a bit sloppy. Bitspower has the tightest most reliable rotary fittings I've tried. 

 

I pretty much run 1/2x3/4" tubing (might see it listed as 13x19mm). It's thick and doesn't kink easily. I like Tygon A-60-G which is Norprene industrial tubing. It's hard to find, expensive, and overkill. Any EPDM tubing will be similar and equally low maintenance. 

 

I think I've rambled on long enough. Hopefully there's some useful info in there and as always just ask if you have any questions. 

Edited by Fluxmaven
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CPU: 12600KF
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1 hour ago, Fluxmaven said:

Sorry, I said I'd run through everything when I got home from work but wasn't feeling great so I laid down to take a "quick" nap and was out for a couple hours.

 

For convenience of moving things around I feel like quick disconnect fittings are a must. After doing plenty of research and now with years of experience using them my recommendation is to go with Koolance. They aren't cheap, but they work well and come in several different configurations. I did hear mixed reviews about the black fittings and picked some up anyway and the finish does chip off after you disconnect and reconnect a few times. Hasn't caused me any issues aside from looking a bit unsightly. 


For one of my builds I went with QD3 with 1/2x3/4' female ends and G1/4 male ends. I did this so I could hard mount one side to a metal bracket with passthroughs. This looks nicer when the rad is disconnected but it makes the loop totally useless unless the external is connected. I'll go over what I mean by that when I get to the next setup.image.thumb.jpeg.b20256496e91c880337176dda327e6d2.jpeg

I don't have any better pics of this but you can probably make out the line all the way around the fitting where the black finish chipped off.

image.thumb.jpeg.7eb7ea632602369851c24c53461d0a62.jpeg

 

For my main setup I used a PCI passthrough bracket and ran a couple feet of tubing then put QD4 fittings with 1/2x3/4" on both male and female sides. Having the fittings halfway down the tubing is nice because I can separate the external setup from the PC and connect the ends together to fill and bleed each section separately since I have pumps on both. I have a D5 pump and two rads internally so I can use the system completely without the external setup If I want. 

WWW.DAZMODE.COM

image.thumb.png.93ebb58de8cef8f64c739606208975db.png

Here's a size comparison of QD3 and QD4. The QD4's are larger and have less flow restriction.

image.thumb.jpeg.89cc2c97626c0701bd7321d3ca3b03a5.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.fb9bc4becb66ae022de507262839b9d5.jpeg

For both of my setups I just ran long ass Molex power cables to fan controllers on the external setups. The one with a legit MO-RA3 uses an Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 pushing 4x 180mm. 

 

The other external setup is a Aquacomputer PowerAdjust3 Ultra into a Splitty9 with 9x Arctic P12. Not going into too much detail since it's an old controller they probably don't sell anymore but going non PWM made things even cheaper. Got the 3pin Arctic P12 value packs for $20 per 5 fans. 

I actually have a whole build thread on that setup so I won't clog up your thread any more posting all the pics from that but here's a link if you want to sift through that.

WWW.OVERCLOCK.NET

If I were going to mount the rad somewhere way further from the PC I'd run a little Mean Well PSU to power a D5 and a fan controller... Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/LRS-100-12-Switching-Supply-Single-Output/dp/B019GYOMN6/ref=sr_1_15?crid=8DVE10SU9FUF I'd rather cut the cables and wire up to something like that than to run a bunch of adapters to run it off a Molex wall adapter 

 

As far as fittings go, it's really just a personal preference thing. I have or have tried just about every major brand. I have stuck with mostly Bitspower and Monsoon. Cheaper fittings like Barrow work just fine but some of their rotary angle fittings can feel a bit sloppy. Bitspower has the tightest most reliable rotary fittings I've tried. 

 

I pretty much run 1/2x3/4" tubing (might see it listed as 13x19mm). It's thick and doesn't kink easily. I like Tygon A-60-G which is Norprene industrial tubing. It's hard to find, expensive, and overkill. Any EPDM tubing will be similar and equally low maintenance. 

 

I think I've rambled on long enough. Hopefully there's some useful info in there and as always just ask if you have any questions. 

 

Thank you alot for the help and picture! Seem like the Quick Disconnect Fitting will be too big for my usage.

At worst i can just remove cpu block because for now it only cpu cooling.

Tried finding your tubing in canada and we do have those but they only sell at 50ft.

Found some EPDM from EK that should be alright.

 

For fitting i think those could fit. Not too sure if am missing part without having the pump and tubing in front of me to figure it.

 

https://www.dazmode.com/shop/watercooling/fittings/soft-tube-fittings/12-34-compression-fittings/12id-34od-straight-compression-fitting-silver-bp-cpf-cc5/

https://www.dazmode.com/shop/watercooling/fittings/soft-tube-fittings/12-34-compression-fittings/90-degree-swivel-angled-for-13mm-x-19mm-12in-x-34in/

One koolance the other is bitpower. 2x block 2x pump 2x rad i think am not missing anything just need to figure if i really need swivel.

 

For coolant kinda want to use CAR COOLANT since if i ever have a power shutdown in the winter i don't want everything to blow up. EPDM should handle it. But my acrylic block not sure.

 

Last part is figuring how am suppose to fit the Res/pump to the radiator 😶 

 

 

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GPU: UHD ULTRA EXTREME BANANA GRAPHIC
MONITOR: [Monitor] LG CX48 OLED [VR] Samsung HMD Odyssey Plus OLED + Meta Quest 2 120hz
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GPU: Alienware M11x R2 i7 640um Nvidia 335m 8gb Ram
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CPU: Ryzen 5560u
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Since you are in there and upgrading your system with external cooling, you might look into this flowmeter (though I think they only come in G1/4):

 

WWW.BYKSKI.US

The Bykski Inline Flow Meter and Thermometer Safety Module offers a real time reading of your inline flow rate. The in-line block uses industry standard G1/4 fittings. The safety module also features real time...

 

You probably already know this, but I would do away with any 90* fittings in your loop for maximum performance, if at all possible (I just noticed you posted a link above). 

 

One little hack, if you don't want to go with the quick disconnects you can use a valve on that line, and shut it off as needed to remove the external radiator / etc. In other words, there is a shut off valve between your external rad and your main loop. you will still have to pull the line, but you won't lose any coolant from the PC side.

 

Never tried these before but they are slightly smaller than a standard quick disconnect. And much cheaper.

WWW.OMEGA.COM

Acetal, our most popular coupling material. With 1 /4 ' flow, it offers the widest selection of sizes and configurations for 1 /4 ' to 3 /8 ' plastic tubing.

 

As for the anti-freeze, just buy a couple gallons of 50/50 pre mix and you'll be up and running in no time. These automotive coolants have built in anti-corrosion properties, and you can always go less than 50/50 depending on your environment. Since anti-freeze is slightly more viscous than water, you want to use the least amount of ethylene glycol as possible to achieve peak performance from your loop. 

 

Here is a chart with all the ratios and associated freezing points.

 

image.png.f9c78861a631b8437441b2bf1733b034.png

image.png.b5bff7000fccd775fed74f82309e2c26.png

 

 

Definitely subscribed

 

Edited by Storm-Chaser
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52 minutes ago, Storm-Chaser said:

Since you are in there and upgrading your system with external cooling, you might look into this flowmeter (though I think they only come in G1/4):

 

WWW.BYKSKI.US

The Bykski Inline Flow Meter and Thermometer Safety Module offers a real time reading of your inline flow rate. The in-line block uses industry standard G1/4 fittings. The safety module also features real time...

 

You probably already know this, but I would do away with any 90* fittings in your loop for maximum performance, if at all possible (I just noticed you posted a link above). 

 

One little hack, if you don't want to go with the quick disconnects you can use a valve on that line, and shut it off as needed to remove the external radiator / etc. In other words, there is a shut off valve between your external rad and your main loop. you will still have to pull the line, but you won't lose any coolant from the PC side.

 

Never tried these before but they are slightly smaller than a standard quick disconnect. And much cheaper.

WWW.OMEGA.COM

Acetal, our most popular coupling material. With 1 /4 ' flow, it offers the widest selection of sizes and configurations for 1 /4 ' to 3 /8 ' plastic tubing.

 

As for the anti-freeze, just buy a couple gallons of 50/50 pre mix and you'll be up and running in no time. These automotive coolants have built in anti-corrosion properties, and you can always go less than 50/50 depending on your environment. Since anti-freeze is slightly more viscous than water, you want to use the least amount of ethylene glycol as possible to achieve peak performance from your loop. 

 

Here is a chart with all the ratios and associated freezing points.

 

image.png.f9c78861a631b8437441b2bf1733b034.png

image.png.b5bff7000fccd775fed74f82309e2c26.png

 

 

Definitely subscribed

 

 

 

Thank you 😄 Will look into those coupling for sure i don't think they have the size i need sadly.

For the flow meter since my block is Acrylic i should be able to see the flow no?   Trying to keep cost down. Am not too worried about overheating or pump failure.

Thank you for the chart never knew you could mix it by temp 😄 Probably will run 50/50 since am lazy.

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1 minute ago, bonami2 said:

 

 

Thank you 😄 Will look into those coupling for sure i don't think they have the size i need sadly.

For the flow meter since my block is Acrylic i should be able to see the flow no?   Trying to keep cost down. Am not too worried about overheating or pump failure.

Thank you for the chart never knew you could mix it by temp 😄 Probably will run 50/50 since am lazy.

😄 LMAO

 

but seriously, this is going to be a good build. 

 

How much did you pay for your 13900K and when do you think you'll get it?

 

 

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1 hour ago, Storm-Chaser said:

😄 LMAO

 

but seriously, this is going to be a good build. 

 

How much did you pay for your 13900K and when do you think you'll get it?

 

 

800 + tax in canadian so about 915$ i think. But i sold my 12700k for like 400$ so not too bad for 2x the core count and cache.

No idea it still says backordered even though i ordered last month :wheee:😑

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For a fan controller, I like the Aquacomputer Octo. Add a flow meter like a Highflow of some sort and then you can use Aquasuite to create some pretty nifty fan curves based on different data points like coolant temps or what not.

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20221025_085208.jpg

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10 minutes ago, bonami2 said:

20221025_085208.jpg

8D. She looks good! Side note: I don't know if you have ever owned an Acool rad before, but they are VERY dirty out of the factory. Since that rad is 100% new, you are going to want to flush it extensively before adding it to your loop. 

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Looking good! Love a big external rad 🤣

 

I like to clean rads with Mayhems Blitz kits. At the very least flush it out. Fill with hot water, cap off the ports and shake the everliving hell out of it. Flush again. Repeat till nothing comes out. You can also add a cheap car fuel filter just after the rad and run it for a while then remove before final assembly. 

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1 hour ago, Avacado said:

8D. She looks good! Side note: I don't know if you have ever owned an Acool rad before, but they are VERY dirty out of the factory. Since that rad is 100% new, you are going to want to flush it extensively before adding it to your loop. 

 

1 hour ago, Fluxmaven said:

Looking good! Love a big external rad 🤣

 

I like to clean rads with Mayhems Blitz kits. At the very least flush it out. Fill with hot water, cap off the ports and shake the everliving hell out of it. Flush again. Repeat till nothing comes out. You can also add a cheap car fuel filter just after the rad and run it for a while then remove before final assembly. 

 

 

How true forgot about that. Was thinking about it when i received it and forgot. Well can still do it with the fan just heavier 😄

 

Will flush it with water. And when i got pump res will run it for a days or two and flush again with distilled. In case of leak.

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14 minutes ago, bonami2 said:

 

 

 

How true forgot about that. Was thinking about it when i received it and forgot. Well can still do it with the fan just heavier 😄

 

Will flush it with water. And when i got pump res will run it for a days or two and flush again with distilled. In case of leak.

Daz Mode actually has Blitz Part 1 in stock.

WWW.DAZMODE.COM

 

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6 hours ago, Avacado said:

8D. She looks good! Side note: I don't know if you have ever owned an Acool rad before, but they are VERY dirty out of the factory. Since that rad is 100% new, you are going to want to flush it extensively before adding it to your loop. 

He speaks the truth. And if you don't go for a Blitz kit, I'd frankly find an adapter to hook it up to a sink faucet and flush it that way. I don't think swishing some water in there will be good enough.

 

EDIT: There you go, looks like DazMode has some.

Edited by Sir Beregond
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13900k arrived and installed.

 

How this would be for cleaning? Blitz part 2 not avalaible.

WWW.DAZMODE.COM

 

20221027_054146.jpg

Edited by bonami2

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8 hours ago, bonami2 said:

13900k arrived and installed.

 

How this would be for cleaning? Blitz part 2 not avalaible.

WWW.DAZMODE.COM

 

20221027_054146.jpg

Must be new, never knew EK to offer a cleaning kit. 

 

I have not heard of this stuff myself, but I tend to be highly questioning of anything branded as "Cryofuel" as that coolant plain sucks. Whose to say this stuff is any better?

 

I know Primochill has a radiator cleaner. Never tried it myself, but I'd probably try it before I tried any of this stuff from EK. But that's just me.

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