ENTERPRISE

Just though I would check the gaps between GTA releases: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_Theft_Auto That is a fair gap if they were to release then, however that being said the community mods etc have kept the latest GTA living and breathing very well, so perhaps Rockstar thought they could wait it out a little longer before the next release. I guess one way to look at it is that it gives time for a very polished product. Further to this those timescales also make some sense considering that the next GTA title will also be a console favorite so It makes sense to be released after the next gen release to polish it up for that hardware subset as well.

Hey all, I was just using my favorite tool for grabbing Windows ISO's (Windows ISO Downloader) and notice that I can now download the ISO for Windows 10 2004 (2020 May Update). I have attached the tool used to this post for your convenience. Select "Windows 10" from the right hand section, from the drop down on the left browse to the "Windows 10 May 2020 Update" and select your edition (Ignore that it says coming soon), then click on confirm, select your preferred language from the drop down menu on the left and click confirm. You will then be presented with the option for a 32/64bit download, click on the one you want and voila. Happy upgrading all ! E Windows-ISO-Downloader.rar

I have to admit that I am a sucker for buying new fittings if I am unsure about them, granted sometimes it ends up with me having extra fittings when it turns out the ones I had were fine...but hey, extra fittings are good. Nothing worse on when you cannot complete your loop due to one missing fitting lol.

I actually have a mix. One of the brands I cannot remember but the main bulk of my EPDM is EK branded. All I can say is they work fine with Barrow fittings. They are a tighter fit on my barrow fittings as they do indeed have a larger OD. However I kind of prefer the tight fit as once you screw that ring down, you know that tube is not going anywhere !

Banned for mocking a great man !

I used the existing O-Rings so will have some spares which is handy ! Yes that is right. I put valve fittings on the mobo inlet and outlet aswell as the top rad inlet and outlet. This is purely for upgrades or closing off sections of the loop. The mobo while lovely is difficult to fully drain, so If I removed the compression fittings from it, you would get additional coolant leaking out which I did not fancy, so decided to tap it off so I can disconnect and reconnect at the valves rather than the motherboard. Same principle for the top rad and to avoid gravity being too much off an issue and having surplus coolant from the depths of the rad spilling out.

Yeah I was only messing with the Crysis thing. With the advancement in game engine technology you can get games with the fidelity of Crysis without the performance hit that once was, plus the efficiency of drivers and API's have come such a long way. That is not to say Crytek cannot make something that will give our machines a good run for their money. Hopper may spur on SLI/Nvlink but as per our prior conversation, Nvidia really will need to take the work away from the developer as I do not see anything changing, fingers crossed.

Well an update, a good one I hope. So I drained the rig and I took the glass tub out from the res. Gave it a good clean and cleaned the top and bottom surfaces (that make contact with O-rings) with 99% alcohol to give them a good cleaning. I re-washed the O-rings as well for good measure. I cleaned both the top and bottom crevices that hold the O-rings into place with alcohol to make sure there was nothing sinister lurking. What I did notice is that when I put the glass tube back in last time I put it round the other way round, now as each end is equal this should have made no difference but for good measure I put it back as it was (why break what was a working formula). I tested the rig filled (No pressure) and tested with the loop in action and thus far no leaking at all. So not 100% sure what the cause was but I am going to go with the fact that the bottom o-ring was maybe sitting on a tiny bit of dirt and it was not making full surface contact ? Hard to tell when you have a few factors but as long as it works I am happy lol. Couple of pictures. Some of the looping working looks a little top and tail but I actually did it this way to make sure the tubing gave me good clearance in key areas for maintenance and upgrade reasons. Ultimately it is not meant to look pretty but it needs to function haha. Excuse the placeholder Quadro, for testing only lol.

SLI certainly still has a place as per the video, I just wish it was as bigger place. Still going single GPU this coming gen as the ROI on a second card is really poor still ....oh but while it can run Crysis, will it be able to run the new remaster of Crysis !?

Looks like CFR will be the future, will be interesting if Nvidia keep working on it or if they more publicly announce the enhancements.

Good to see some competition, but thus far it really is only a clock speed race which always seems to be the case when it comes to AMD vs Intel lol.

Not a bad achievement. I don't think that 14nm node could be optimised any more at this point lol.

Another thing, I noticed the top and bottom faces of the glass tube is rough as opposed to smooth which is something I never knew. Not sure if that plays a part in the sealing of the unit (Rough edge to O-Ring).

Well I have ordered a new set of O-Rings which has both sizes. Will measure to see what mine already are and take it from there. Will replace the O-Rings with new ones anyway to remove that as a factor (Kind of hoping im already using the smaller ones so I can see if the bigger ones fix the issue). Also ordered some of that Seal All. If all else fails will use some of that either in places of issues or will maybe try applying it to the top and bottom of the O-Rings which would glue the O-Rings into the base aswell as the glass tube, obviously that has some issues when it comes to maintenance of removing the glass tube later for cleaning but its a worthwhile tradeoff if it works.

*Update* Drained the system. Had a look at Watercool.de for replacement Gaskets, going to get myself some of those. Interestingly I did not realise that each res due to machining tolerances can come with different sized O-rings 55x4 or 55x5. Now apparently when replacing the O-rings you should measure them and replace like for like, but if my O-rings are 55x4 I may be tempted to try the 55x5 ones.

Well that is a good question, all I know is the coolant is only visible in that corner and nowhere else. It is for sure not condensation. I wonder whether or not I should drain the loop and take out the glass tube and re-seat it. I Looked at the gaskets before putting the loop back together and looked just fine. I could use the sealant you recommended but may see if I can fix the issue at the source. If I did use the sealant I assume I would just apply it to the affected corner on the exterior ? Wondering if anyone else applies anything to the gaskets prior to putting in the tube to "Aid" the seal ?

Hey guys, So I got my loop sorted 99%. The only issue I have is I notice that in one of the lower corners of the resevoir, I see some leakage, but only a very tiny one where I can see the coolant glisten when it is at the surface. Note that it does not seem to build up and leak over the edge as such just stays at the surface. I did dry it with a cotton bud but it does come back. I did wonder if it was a pressurization issue as it has happened to me before but it settled down after a little while. I have not left it all that long this time as of yet, but wanted to get an opinion. I am hoping it settles as I dont fancy bleeding the system again do a res reseat (The Glass cylinder to Gaskets, with this res there is one on the bottom and one at the top, I did check to make sure all the bolts were tight and they are. It may not even be anything to worry about. I took a picture, although difficult in the current lighting to show you were it is occuring.

Yup, 6 GPU unit, should see some nice out put

Yeah hoping it will work out. Actually interested to see if it effects the CPU temps any, will find out tomorrow. Yeah could be somewhat power hungry, may be a die shrink but they are packing a tonne on that die, so decent coolers will be needed, another reason why its rumoured that even the FE cards will come in a 3 fan config.

It is going to be interesting for sure when the true specs are released. Semi finished the new WC setup on my rig bar some tweaks etc which will better allow for WC GPU. Im hoping when its released the GPU's with blocks do not take too long to come out. Ha yeah fingers crossed there will not be broken cards coming off the line this time.

Yeah that is true, they are more of an Ebay for game keys which inherently is the issue as none of the sources I bet are truly vetted to check the legitimacy of the keys, not that I can confirm that as I have never joined as a seller BUT I cannot see how G2A could verify to make sure the keys were sourced in a legitimate way.

So we have another update on the build as it enters phase 3. There was a moment where I wondered if I would get the second PSU in, I meant to take a picture but essentially where the USB riser cards were located on the motherboard, the PSU covers them. This in itself is no issue.....however the tops of the USB connect come ever so slightly proud over the PSU support tabs in the case. Fortunately I was able to shape the USB wired, or should I say bend them in a position whereby I could get the PSU into place. A further bonus to this was that that PSU actually pushes down ever so slightley onto the USB connectors/risers which will keep them in place, so no need for velcro or hot glue to anchor those down ! Once all the relevant cables were in place into the system PSU (EVGA) the Team Group Tforce SSD was installed into place somewhere accessible for any future maintenance. Lastly the only thing to do was to ensure that all the PCIe risers were functioning correctly and communicating with the motherboard. Fotunately all was well, you will see from the images that I used a trusty old Quadro card I had in my posession. As the tolerances on the riser cards with respects to the screw holes was a little on the looser side, I noticed that when installing the GPU that the fixing bracket did not line up with the case screw hole. So I went back and put the GPU into each slot, undid the fixing screws and moved the risers forward using the card until the holes lined up and then resecured the risers, Glad I noticed before installing the real GPU's.

Here's to hoping bud !

Looks like another case of jumping the gun really.

G2A is a very grey market but I will not sit here and pretend I have never used it. I have used it before to get some great deals. Some would say that is enabling bad practises but from a consumer standpoint, we cannot tell if keys G2A obtained are illegal or legal. Consumers are always going to go for the deal, whether it be possibly a grey area or not. This is why they have done so well up to date. What makes me laugh is G2A are probably wishing they had now made the policy of paying a dev 10x the cost of illigitmate keys. I should imagine they assumed (and mostly correctly) that Devs will not bother with chasing this due to the cost of doing so may outweigh the benefits, but of course there will always be the one that will stick it to them and it looks like that time has come.