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Everything posted by Fluxmaven
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The paint on the Miata was getting a bit tired (also a black car) so I polished it for the first time this summer. I was scared to mess it up so I went with very non aggressive stuff first. Chemical Guys V36 cutting and V38 Final polish. They were pretty cheap on sale and gave me the confidence to try something a bit more aggressive and work my way back to the finer compounds. Picked up Meguiar's M10508 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound and It seemed like a step in the right direction. I got impatient and started driving the car again. So now I want to start over and clay bar the car, go over again with the Meguiar's then the Chemical Guys stuff. I probably won't get any more Chemical Guys polish. I'll go with other Meguiar's stuff unless anyone else has any other good recommendations Post it. Sounds like it needs a decent amount of work and would be cool to see the progress.
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Sorry, I said I'd run through everything when I got home from work but wasn't feeling great so I laid down to take a "quick" nap and was out for a couple hours. For convenience of moving things around I feel like quick disconnect fittings are a must. After doing plenty of research and now with years of experience using them my recommendation is to go with Koolance. They aren't cheap, but they work well and come in several different configurations. I did hear mixed reviews about the black fittings and picked some up anyway and the finish does chip off after you disconnect and reconnect a few times. Hasn't caused me any issues aside from looking a bit unsightly. For one of my builds I went with QD3 with 1/2x3/4' female ends and G1/4 male ends. I did this so I could hard mount one side to a metal bracket with passthroughs. This looks nicer when the rad is disconnected but it makes the loop totally useless unless the external is connected. I'll go over what I mean by that when I get to the next setup. I don't have any better pics of this but you can probably make out the line all the way around the fitting where the black finish chipped off. For my main setup I used a PCI passthrough bracket and ran a couple feet of tubing then put QD4 fittings with 1/2x3/4" on both male and female sides. Having the fittings halfway down the tubing is nice because I can separate the external setup from the PC and connect the ends together to fill and bleed each section separately since I have pumps on both. I have a D5 pump and two rads internally so I can use the system completely without the external setup If I want. Just a moment... WWW.DAZMODE.COM Here's a size comparison of QD3 and QD4. The QD4's are larger and have less flow restriction. For both of my setups I just ran long ass Molex power cables to fan controllers on the external setups. The one with a legit MO-RA3 uses an Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 pushing 4x 180mm. The other external setup is a Aquacomputer PowerAdjust3 Ultra into a Splitty9 with 9x Arctic P12. Not going into too much detail since it's an old controller they probably don't sell anymore but going non PWM made things even cheaper. Got the 3pin Arctic P12 value packs for $20 per 5 fans. I actually have a whole build thread on that setup so I won't clog up your thread any more posting all the pics from that but here's a link if you want to sift through that. Just a moment... WWW.OVERCLOCK.NET If I were going to mount the rad somewhere way further from the PC I'd run a little Mean Well PSU to power a D5 and a fan controller... Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/LRS-100-12-Switching-Supply-Single-Output/dp/B019GYOMN6/ref=sr_1_15?crid=8DVE10SU9FUF I'd rather cut the cables and wire up to something like that than to run a bunch of adapters to run it off a Molex wall adapter As far as fittings go, it's really just a personal preference thing. I have or have tried just about every major brand. I have stuck with mostly Bitspower and Monsoon. Cheaper fittings like Barrow work just fine but some of their rotary angle fittings can feel a bit sloppy. Bitspower has the tightest most reliable rotary fittings I've tried. I pretty much run 1/2x3/4" tubing (might see it listed as 13x19mm). It's thick and doesn't kink easily. I like Tygon A-60-G which is Norprene industrial tubing. It's hard to find, expensive, and overkill. Any EPDM tubing will be similar and equally low maintenance. I think I've rambled on long enough. Hopefully there's some useful info in there and as always just ask if you have any questions.
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Inb4 big turbo and spicy e85 tune
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Cable management on my main build goes by the out of sight out of mind philosophy. Takes 3 hands to get the back panel shut On this one I wanted it tidy for ease of access if I need to swap drives.
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Just now seeing this and I'm not at my PC so I'm not going to write a whole novel but I have a couple different external setups (not including the ghetto HWBOT loop you've seen). Tomorrow after work I'll type up an overview of different options of what could work for your setup. Quick things to note, 1/2x3/4" tubing works well since it's thick walled and doesn't kink easily. Koolance QD4 quick disconnects are a good option for reliable QD fittings with minimal flow restriction. Another vote for P12's. Have had 9x of them on one of my external setups for 2+ years with zero issues.
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I think people really overblow the must have ECC thing considering most people using this at home are likely just filling it up with "Linux ISOs"... If I were super concerned about the data, I wouldn't be using old parts bin consumer hardware with used HDDs. Most of the stuff that will live on here is backed up elsewhere or can be reacquired if something were to go terribly wrong.
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This build is running Core which is fine considering I don't want to use this for anything but storage. My current Plex server is running Windows since it was doing double duty as my test bench as it was the only air cooled PC I owned Now that I have a separate test bench, it doesn't need to pull double duty so I'm considering reimaging it. Was originally thinking ESXi and run a couple VMs since that's what I'm more familiar with, but that build would be a better candidate for Scale.
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Actually I forgot the Define 7 only comes with 4 HDD trays and I added 4 more which is why half are black and half are white. Paid $21.18 total for 2x kits the Type B drive trays. So really my total was $393.96 not bad for 20TB of fast usable space with some redundancy. We have Gigabit fiber to the house and all the PCs are connected via 2.5G switches which uplink to a Ubiquiti Dream Machine Pro
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Figured I'd post the info on my budget NAS in case anyone was interested. Case: Fractal Define 7 black/white - picked up BNIB on FB marketplace for $100. It was a nice day so I took the Miata and it barely fit in the passenger seat Motherboard: Strix-Z270H - had this in the spare parts bin Cooler: Thermalright True Spirit 140 POWER - also in the spare parts bin CPU: i7 6700 - was free from a recycled PC RAM: 4x4GB 2133- also a recycle pull SSD: Toshiba 256GB NVMe - also a recycle pull PSU: EVGA 750 G6 that was bundled with a 3070 I "won" a Newegg shuffle for. Sold a 2080S for the same price as the bundle so the PSU was "free" HDD: 8x HGST Ultrastar 7200RPM 4TB drives - $216.24 on ebay (offered $25 per drive and it was accepted) HBA: LSI 9240-8i with the breakout cables - $45.25 on ebay NIC: 2.5G PCIe adapter - $11.29 on ebay OS: TrueNAS - Free go check it out TrueNAS - Welcome to the Open Storage Era WWW.TRUENAS.COM TrueNAS is the World’s #1 Open Source Storage. Based on OpenZFS, it is trusted by millions and deployed worldwide. Total out of pocket for project: $372.78 Ideally I'd have used a different platform that supported ECC memory, but using all the stuff I had laying around kept the build really affordable.
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I was in the discord for several hours yesterday so you missed your chance to yell at me Me turning up the voltage because I had no qualms with melting a $20 Phenom It's been a fun few weeks playing around with all this stuff but I'm glad the comp is over so I can focus on finishing up some of my other projects.
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my drunk ass managed to squeak out a better score /img/logo.png Fluxmaven`s HWBOT x265 Benchmark - 4k score: 1.153 fps with a Phenom II X4 955 HWBOT.ORG The Phenom II X4 955 @ 4314MHzscores getScoreFormatted in the HWBOT x265 Benchmark - 4k benchmark. Fluxmavenranks #835...
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Nope just the official Adrenalin 22.6.1 drivers that were released back in June. I might put them back on the Formula Z to play around at some point but the sim rig refresh is using a GTX 1070 as a placeholder for now. It will get my RTX 2080 once I pick up a 6900xt for my bedroom PC.
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I'm also in the market for a 6900xt for a spare PC. Not really worried about drivers this late into the product cycle. They have had ample time to work out any issues. I was very surprised to see a new driver released this year for my 7970s. I put them in a rig as a joke and was surprised to see them run perfectly on a newer 5600x system.
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Going back to a single 1080p display for these comps has been painful coming from 4k/multimonitor setups. I usually have things overlapping a little bit and nobody has said anything. I've also been on the naughty list for bad submissions so we should probably wait for clarification from someone that knows for sure.
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Picked up an SSD for the sim rig. I've had great luck running several of the older SN750's in other builds so $80 for this seemed like a decent deal. Edit... I bought more stuff I had set my TV budget at around $1200. Picked up this last years model on clearance to keep some money in the budget for an ARC A770 I also ordered a shifter mount for the racing sim and some Vegemite because my Aussie friend said I should try it
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I'll go back to my corner now...
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Me right before submitting the wrong file and being very confused when my baseline run was faster than people with LN2
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Why are you wanting to change? Pumps in series increases head pressure Pumps in parallel increases flow rate. I'd have to assume with 6 in series you don't have issues with flow or head anyway. I've never ran more than 3 pumps in a single loop and I always run everything in series. from a redundancy standpoint, series is nice because a pump dies, no big deal the others pick up the slack. In parallel depending on how it's plumbed I'd think you have the chance of weird stuff happening since the water is just gonna take the path of least resistance.
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Funny story, I actually had YEET submitted for approval and someone else also put in for it within a week of me and they got into the DMV and paid for it first so I had to change mine to YEEET. No issues getting Maven for the wagon other than it taking forever for them to process custom plates. I ran around with a Kansas livestock association EAT BEEF novelty plate on the back for 6+ months while waiting for the custom plate. Had plenty of cops behind me but never got hassled for it. Now the EAT BEEF plate is on my BMW because it's not actually registered
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It's been a while since I washed the wagon and it gets parked on the street so it was pretty gross. Washed it, then pulled it up and rolled the Miata out of the garage and gave it a quick wash too.
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Oh no an MTV show is scripted and totally fake??? Color me surprised I really like the seat. The stock seat that came with the Playseat frame just didn't really fit me well and I bought it used so it already had some noticeable wear. I was considering going with the pink and teal leopard print but I'm happy with the purple and glitter lol.
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Been thinking about the sim rig lately and decided instead of making any actual progress getting it setup, I'd add a new seat. Purple NRG Prisma with the glitter on da back. X to the Z Xzibit you've just been pimped. Got it mounted to the Playseat frame and put it back in the corner for now. Gotta pull everything from the upstairs living room down here to paint up there. Once paints done, I can put everything where it's actually going to go and set up the sim rigs. We'll have 2 car setups, a flight sim, and the VR all in one room. My roommate is going more F1 focused on his rig and picked up this dope Ferrari wheel.

