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neurotix
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Everything posted by neurotix
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We went with Box Pale Blue for the Cinnamaroll themed build I'm doing soon that will mostly be used by my wife. Also, so many introduction guides to the hobby say "MX Reds are the best for gaming" and then soooo many people just stick to red switches afterwards because of that. It's the industries fault, when they could be recommending something else with a low travel distance and low actuation force instead.
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EXTREMEHW Foldathon November 24-26 UTC (3 DAYS!)
neurotix replied to firedfly's topic in Folding@Home
No idea what to do with mine since I already have one on my desk, but plz send another dope anime girl sticker on the back of the envelope -
Please do!
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Let's not let this thread die! @Slaughtahouse didn't you post pics of a new fancy coffee machine and grinder in the Post your Last Purchase thread a while back? As for me, right now I'm drinking Harney and Sons sencha tea (Japanese style green tea). It's not as good as Saemidori Sencha that I used to get, but it's close and you can get twice the amount for half the price. I brew it in a French press which gives me two roughly 10oz cups. Tea is slightly bitter and very umami. I really like Harney and Sons. Great prices on their tea. Their sachets are good if you don't do looseleaf. The rest of my tea is mostly Rishi or Cameron's.
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Either of you know if Gateron yellow pro switches are tactile or linear? When I did the Mini Cat 64 I built last year I tried them and thought they were nice despite not being clicky. They seemed like tactile (like browns) but I want to confirm that. EDIT: nvm. Looked it up. Gat Yellows are 50g linear. No thanks.
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EXTREMEHW Foldathon November 24-26 UTC (3 DAYS!)
neurotix replied to firedfly's topic in Folding@Home
Alright, I managed to draw the winner now actually. Winner of the Rosewill K85 mechanical keyboard + O-Rings + keycap puller is CptAsian aka @Supercrumpet Please let me know if you live in the US (I will only ship to the US) and send me your shipping address ASAP in a pm and we'll go out and ship it tonight when my fiancee is done with work. Thanks! -
EXTREMEHW Foldathon November 24-26 UTC (3 DAYS!)
neurotix replied to firedfly's topic in Folding@Home
Have a Drs appointment today. Will probably draw a winner for the keyboard afterwards, when I get home and get settled in. -
Ended up picking up that YUNZII board because we are doing a Cinnamaroll themed keyboard with Cinnamaroll keycaps. Also a pink plastic dust cover for it. My fiancee's Macaron themed numpad I built for her last year is also YUNZII and is good quality and has lasted. It was a Cyber Monday deal and we saved around $40 on the YUNZII blue board + dust cover. My fiancee will be the primary user so we'll figure out what switches she wants. I might use thd board itself stock for a while before swapping switches and doing O-Rings and keycaps. It comes with Gateron Pro Yellow switches which I think are tactile? They were the stock switches in the Mini Cat 64 I built for her last year and I tried them out and actually thought they felt pretty good, but we both prefer clicky switches so I'll let her decide what switches she wants in it (We have boards with box pink, box white, box jade and box navy so she's going to have to choose from those.)
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So that board should work with Box switches? Also thanks for the diagram and explanation.
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Hey @Fluxmaven@Supercrumpet Is this keyboard compatible with Kailh Box switches? It says 3 pin or 5 pin but Kailh or Gaterons have 2 pins... Amazon.com: YUNZII Keynovo IF98 98 Key 96% 1800 Hot Swappable Gasket Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Double Shot PBT Keycaps, RGB Backlight for Mac & Win(Gateron G Pro Yellow, Blue) : Video Games WWW.AMAZON.COM Amazon.com: YUNZII Keynovo IF98 98 Key 96% 1800 Hot Swappable Gasket Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with... Looking at the photos with the switch slot exposed, it looks like there's a big hole on the right bottom of it... I want to do a blue themed keyboard but don't want to spend like $175 on a Keychron K8 Pro that's blue. Last I looked the normal aluminum black Keychron was $120~ which is what I paid for mine, but any of the colored ones were like $175 or more and I have no idea why paint is that expensive.
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Ryzen Master is trash. Agreed 100%. When I dealt with AMD regarding my CPU not boosting, they said both Rivatuner and hwinfo64 showed wrong values (true to some extent) HOWEVER they insisted I use Ryzen Master to get core frequency values. I did, and it was way off on its clock speed values, saying cores were asleep or only at 4500MHz running all-core tests, where hwinfo64 showed the first CCD around 5000MHz and 2nd CCD at 4800MHz, I think I was running Cinebench. And the score reflected the values shown by hwinfo64 whereas Ryzen Master was outright wrong. Rivatuner and hwinfo64 have BOTH been around for like 20 freaking years. They give a good general idea of what your clocks are at and they are used by some of the best professional overclockers. I remember seeing a video on Wizerty and he was running Fire Strike as well as Rivatuner (Afterburner OSD) while benching using LN2. I also have tried "overclocking" using Ryzen Master with my bios at default settings for PBO and CO and it also resulted in a non-bootable system. Trash utility.
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I OC with PBO... @J7SC_Orion is the one to help you with CO overclocking.
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Yes, sorry for all your frustrations with it. I have my own too, being unable to do competitive benchmarking because my 2nd CCD won't boost to 5650 under load in 3dmark anymore. Tried so many things to fix it and nothing works. Have you tried lowering your RAM to 6200MHz yet?
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Did you have AM5 Asus motherboards, or boards for a previous gen? I am NOT happy with Asus at the moment, you guys with Gigabyte boards got AGESA 1.0.8.0 BIOS like 3 weeks ago, it still hasn't released for my board but I tried a test version and it gave terrible performance. Like 72ns latency with my RAM OC and 660 pts single thread in CPU-Z bench as opposed to 62ns latency and 720 single thread in CPU-Z. So I rolled back. I check the bios spreadsheet today and see that the latest (testing) BIOS is actually AGESA 1.1.0.0 and they haven't released that either for my board, but a heads up for you guys that that is coming for you although apparently not for my ROG Strix board. In that link there might be test bios for you guys, maybe @J7SC_Orion would be interested.
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Try reducing your memory frequency from 6400MHz to 6200MHz. You won't lose very much performance, not even 1%, but it might get things stable. When I was still running around those speeds on a different kit, they could not do 6400 stably at all, I'd bsod as soon as I logged into Windows or Linux or Bsod typing my pw etc. If that doesn't work then reduce to 6000MHz although this *will* give you more of a performance loss. Still not even 3% though if that. Hope this helps...
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EXTREMEHW Foldathon November 24-26 UTC (3 DAYS!)
neurotix replied to firedfly's topic in Folding@Home
So excited. 6 hours guys. Get hype! -
I can do 8000MHz for benching just fine but it fails out in memtestCL nearly instantly. The difference between 7600 and 8000 is only like 2000GB/sec In Aida anyway. Going from tight timing 6200 cas 30 on B-Die to 7600 cas 36 on M-Die has given me like 9 more fps in Forza Horizon 5 benchmark on Ultra. I've tried everything to get stable at 8000MHz but either my IMC, my chip, or my RAM don't like it.
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If the system is no longer crashing though when you set it to 1.25v despite it showing as 1.2v, it is probably at 1.25v? And everything is good despite the erroneous readings? Again, I just went with 1.25v from the start, because I found a set of timings for the Flare X B-Die I was using and they recommended it be at 1.25v. No crashes or anything. I tried to lower it one time to 1.23v to reduce heat and I was getting Bsods and reboots. Too bad none of us thought or suggested or asked what your SoC voltage was sooner.
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Yeah 1.25v max is what I do and leave Loadline Calibration on Auto for my board. I'd imagine if you set 1.3v and max Loadline you could probably kill your chip, even with the 1.3v limit.
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For my 6400MHz OC when I was still running it on B-Die sticks, I found out I *required* 1.25v SoC voltage to run my memory at that speed with my super tight timings. Make sure it's getting 1.25v *at least*, when I set my board to 1.25v it actually gives it 1.28v which is increasing heat, I tried lowering it to 1.23 but then got lockups and reboots. You shouldn't need or have to use 1.3v unless you crash randomly again,, I would leave it alone because it's just going to add extra heat. Glad you found the issue!
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Other than selling it you could look into individual components one by one. I'd start with replacing the motherboard first, and if that doesn't work then replace the RAM, once these are replaced if the issue still occurs you should look into your power supply. I wonder if it could be the PSU now, you're drawing too much wattage and its OCP is kicking in and rebooting the rig? I dunno.
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More people are happy with Ryzen or only have minor problems than people with issues like yours. I think that says a lot. AMD's chips are flying off the shelves right now, not Intels.
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Maybe I'm wrong about others wanting to help you, I'm sorry I was not trying to make it worse, but just give you the truth. I would flash back to whatever you had before, then set your OC settings, and deal with the sporadic crashing. It's annoying yes and stupid but remember the story I told you about my old FX-8350 @ 5ghz and it locking up sporadically. Also remember my boost problems with my current 7900X3D. I just dealt/deal with it.
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Bro, I think you may be at the end of the line. A lot of people have tried to help you and made numerous posts to help you diagnose your system, and to be honest I have no idea anymore how to help you, and I'm sure some others here feel the same way. Sorry but I think you should just sell your system and get a new build.
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If you can, run CAS 30 and bring the other primaries down to 36. So like 30-36-36-36-108. This should help a lot with your latency, which is quite high, assuming you can do it.
