Build Log - Sir B's Black/White/Gold O11-Dynamic

[Sir Beregond]

Something. As you can see the CPU block I was using for far longer than the temporary replacement it was supposed to be looks perfectly fine.

 

But the inside of the tubing is green.

 

 

[J7SC_Orion]

11 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Something. As you can see the CPU block I was using for far longer than the temporary replacement it was supposed to be looks perfectly fine.

 

But the inside of the tubing is green.

 

 

 

...that cold-plate...SHINY  !

 

Whenever I can, I reuse w-cooling parts after thorough cleaning (one reason why I am careful not to use liquids w/ pastels et al), but those tubes you showed should probably not be reused...you might try some pure white vinegar though and let it sit for an hour (subject to inspecting the inner tube condition afterwards to see how it 'took' to that).

[Sir Beregond]

I may take a small piece and try that just to see what happens.

 

Otherwise the new tubing is pmma (which I was led to believe is an acrylic). I think if I do flexible again, I'm ditching the Primochill Advanced LRT (what this white tubing is) and going to Tygon A-60-G.

 

Anyway, I spent a good amount of time tearing the old loop out and starting cleanup on parts I am reusing, which includes the reservoir and pump. 

 

I am wondering what the best solution might be to clean up the tube part of the res. Can clearly see coolant level lines as it slowly evaporated (loop was in use for 18 months and this room is a high sunlight area). Anyone have any suggestions?

 

As these projects always go, took me way longer to take everything apart than I intended. Did not get to setup the Blitz Part 2 loop today for the new stuff and I want to figure out how to clean this res tube first.

 

The rest of the time was spent reinstalling the air cooler on my 980 and finding an air cooler for my 4790k so I can keep using my system for now. Had to resign to the stock cooler as I could not find what I did with the mounting hardware for an Arctic cooler I had in the parts closet. Oh well. I also couldn't find normal case screws for my existing fans (that we're on radiators) so I opted to install 4 of the new SW3 fans I got for the new build to try them out and I am liking them a lot.

 

 

Edited March 27, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[ArchStanton]

9 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Anyone have an suggestions?

Anything gentle enough to clean/polish automotive headlights.  Toothpaste is the "redneck" polishing compound of choice.  I'd certainly try just hot soapy water first though.  Microfiber to prevent scratches I suppose .

 

Edit:  I'm still mulling over that tubing.  My guess is oxidized copper or brass from inside the radiators if nowhere else, but that is totally a guess based on the color.

Edited March 27, 2022 by ArchStanton
More blabbing

[Sir Beregond]

1 minute ago, ArchStanton said:

Anything gentle enough to clean/polish automotive headlights.  Toothpaste is the "redneck" polishing compound of choice.  I'd certainly try just hot soapy water first though.  Microfiber to prevent scratches I suppose .

I started with the soapy water and microfiber. I do have some car polish in the garage (Meguiars Ultimate Polish I think) I could try then. If that's not fine enough, can look for headlight stuff.

Edited March 27, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[ArchStanton]

1 minute ago, Sir Beregond said:

Meguiars Ultimate Polish I think

I wouldn't suggest it, or other "paint" polishes.  No joke, plain old toothpaste, a gentle "cloth/brush, and time will polish her right up without scratching.  Any automotive parts chain store will likely have "headlight polishing kits" though.

[Sir Beregond]

5 minutes ago, ArchStanton said:

I wouldn't suggest it, or other "paint" polishes.  No joke, plain old toothpaste, a gentle "cloth/brush, and time will polish her right up without scratching.  Any automotive parts chain store will likely have "headlight polishing kits" though.

Ah, yeah I didn't think about paint vs plastic polish. Good call.

[Sir Beregond]

Ok, some updates.

 

Was able to clean up the reservoir tube quite well with some Meguiars PlastX clear plastic cleaner/polish. Reservoir looks great.

 

Bad news, when attempting to remove the D5 pump from the mounting bracket so I could better reattempt to reconnect the pump to the pump top, managed to snap back this plastic arm that wraps around the pump. It didn't cleanly break all the way through, so is still attached, but I'm going to pick up some super glue tomorrow just to make sure is doesn't break all the way through in the future. Worst case, just another battle scar as you can see this line where it bent now. Was really my fault as I overestimated how far it could swing out once unscrewed from the other side. Turns out just loosens it enough to allow you to pop the pump out. Oh well, could have been worse.

 

Still didn't get around to doing the Blitz Part 2 run yet, maybe tomorrow.

 

 

 

Edited March 28, 2022 by Sir Beregond
phone keeps uploading images sideways

[ArchStanton]

Glad you had success with the res tube! 

[J7SC_Orion]

37 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Ok, some updates.

 

Was able to clean up the reservoir tube quite well with some Meguiars PlastX clear plastic cleaner/polish. Reservoir looks great.

 

Bad news, when attempting to remove the D5 pump from the mounting bracket so I could better reattempt to reconnect the pump to the pump top, managed to snap back this plastic arm that wraps around the pump. It didn't cleanly break all the way through, so is still attached, but I'm going to pick up some super glue tomorrow just to make sure is doesn't break all the way through in the future. Worst case, just another battle scar as you can see this line where it bent now. Was really my fault as I overestimated how far it could swing out once unscrewed from the other side. Turns out just loosens it enough to allow you to pop the pump out. Oh well, could have been worse.

 

Still didn't get around to doing the Blitz Part 2 run yet, maybe tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

...Superglue (along with industrial velcro) are a builder's / modder's best friend. If all else fails, steel strapping such as the one below can be used to make all kinds of brackets (just add flat black paint )

 

 

[EHW Ai]

1 hour ago, Sir Beregond said:

Ok, some updates.

 

Bad news, when attempting to remove the D5 pump from the mounting bracket so I could better reattempt to reconnect the pump to the pump top, managed to snap back this plastic arm that wraps around the pump. It didn't cleanly break all the way through, so is still attached, but I'm going to pick up some super glue tomorrow just to make sure is doesn't break all the way through in the future. Worst case, just another battle scar as you can see this line where it bent now. Was really my fault as I overestimated how far it could swing out once unscrewed from the other side. Turns out just loosens it enough to allow you to pop the pump out. Oh well, could have been worse.

 

I'd have to check, but I might have an extra bracket in storage that I'm not using.  If I do, it's yours if you want it.

[Sir Beregond]

6 hours ago, iamjanco said:

 

I'd have to check, but I might have an extra bracket in storage that I'm not using.  If I do, it's yours if you want it.

That's very kind, thank you. I'd definitely be interested if you do!

 

On another note, regarding the green inside the old tubing I ripped out in the teardown this weekend, tried submerging it and soaking it for about an hour or so in some white vinegar, but the inside of the tube was still green. Still no idea what the green is. It's only on the tubes.

[Avacado]

13 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

That's very kind, thank you. I'd definitely be interested if you do!

 

On another note, regarding the green inside the old tubing I ripped out in the teardown this weekend, tried submerging it and soaking it for about an hour or so in some white vinegar, but the inside of the tube was still green. Still no idea what the green is. It's only on the tubes.

Does the green come off of the tubing if you use something abrasive? In my experience green only means Algae or Copper oxidation which can also appear blue. 

[Sir Beregond]

15 minutes ago, Avacado said:

Does the green come off of the tubing if you use something abrasive? In my experience green only means Algae or Copper oxidation which can also appear blue. 

If I scrub it, it will come off. If it's wet it will come off as well. I have a pic of it somewhere here with a q tip, probably back on the first page. I am thinking copper oxidation because I was using Mayhems X1 clear. Unless I ran the stuff too long (18 months), don't think algae should be a thing going on.

 

And the blocks and rads were clean. Blocks themselves were pristine. The EK gpu block was in rough shape going in (flaked off nickel) and is 7 years old now, but the CPU block was perfectly pristine. Rads are a bit worn, one is 10 years old and the other probably 8. I am probably retiring them. All to say, no green inside anything except the tubing.

Edited March 28, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[Avacado]

17 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

If I scrub it, it will come off. If it's wet it will come off as well. I have a pic of it somewhere here with a q tip, probably back on the first page. I am thinking copper oxidation because I was using Mayhems X1 clear. Unless I ran the stuff too long (18 months), don't think algae should be a thing going on.

 

And the blocks and rads were clean. Blocks themselves were pristine. The EK gpu block was in rough shape going in (flaked off nickel) and is 7 years old now, but the CPU block was perfectly pristine. Rads are a bit worn, one is 10 years old and the other probably 8. I am probably retiring them. All to say, no green inside anything except the tubing.

18 months is quite a long time unless you have been adding biocide and/or inhibitor every 6 months or so. I don't know how well that white tubing shields sunlight, however if your system sat exposed to sunlight it is probably algae. It would be kind of weird for copper oxidation to coat the entire length of tubing in such a uniform manner. I do not believe that oxidized copper would have a high affinity for plastics or silicon. Usually it collects within the microfins of blocks. 

Edited March 28, 2022 by Avacado

[Sir Beregond]

1 hour ago, Avacado said:

18 months is quite a long time unless you have been adding biocide and/or inhibitor every 6 months or so. I don't know how well that white tubing shields sunlight, however if your system sat exposed to sunlight it is probably algae. It would be kind of weird for copper oxidation to coat the entire length of tubing in such a uniform manner. I do not believe that oxidized copper would have a high affinity for plastics or silicon. Usually it collects within the microfins of blocks. 

Any reason why I would not have seen any of it inside any of the other parts besides the tubing? I did not realize you had to treat premix so often. Yeah admittedly this temporary loop lasted a lot longer than intended given the new build hiatus from basically March 2021 - March 2022. It was put together September 2020 to tide me over as I started getting parts.

 

Honestly first time I've ever encountered algae. I previously used distilled water with inhibitor/biocide and had that loop up for 2 years and never had algae. Treated that one after 1 year (and topped it up) and then tore it down at 2 year mark. I usually switched the water out every year or two.

 

I'd really have questions for this premix if the distilled water lasted longer.

Edited March 28, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[ArchStanton]

1 hour ago, Sir Beregond said:

If I scrub it, it will come off

 

1 hour ago, Avacado said:

it is probably algae

 

Yeah, I retract my earlier guesses.  If you can wipe/rub it off, then it's almost certainly a biofilm of some kind.  I had originally thought that the inner wall of the tubing might have had just enough porosity to let copper oxides lodge there, but if that were the case it certainly wouldn't come off easily (it would be similar to anodizing metals for a custom color).  Hey, at least that biofilm was helping decrease your carbon footprint without clogging your blocks .

[Avacado]

13 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Any reason why I would not have seen any of it inside any of the other parts besides the tubing? I did not realize you had to treat premix so often. Yeah admittedly this temporary loop lasted a lot longer than intended given the new build hiatus from basically March 2021 - March 2022. It was put together September 2020 to tide me over as I started getting parts.

 

Honestly first time I've ever encountered algae. I previously used distilled water with inhibitor/biocide and had that loop up for 2 years and never had algae. Treated that one after 1 year and then tore it down at 2. 

 

I'd really have questions for this premix if the distilled water lasted longer.

Well, even with a premix the Biocide and inhibitors get used. As to how much and how rapidly is dependent on a case by case basis. You raise a good question as to why it has not been spotted anywhere else and I honestly don't know. Did you ever run any green coolant previously? I run the MMM water and X1 as you know, but I treat every 3 months with a drop as my 3 WC systems are exposed to direct sunlight. 

[Sir Beregond]

28 minutes ago, Avacado said:

Well, even with a premix the Biocide and inhibitors get used. As to how much and how rapidly is dependent on a case by case basis. You raise a good question as to why it has not been spotted anywhere else and I honestly don't know. Did you ever run any green coolant previously? I run the MMM water and X1 as you know, but I treat every 3 months with a drop as my 3 WC systems are exposed to direct sunlight. 

Well that's true, just didn't think they'd wear out that fast. I'll be sure to grab some inhibitor/biocide and treat it every few months. I purchased MMM Modwater clear for this new build. But nope, I've never ran a colored coolant in my loops ever in the 10 years I've been watercooling now. I was always a distilled water guy. Had a bad experience with Liquid Utopia on my very first loop, and from then on ran with Mayhems inhibitor/biocide without issue. Aside from the reuse of the XSPC 240 rads, the EK GTX 980 block, Monsoon fittings, everything else in the loop, including the tubing was new.

 

Now I did not get a Blitz Kit for this loop as like I said it was supposed to be temporary like maybe up to 6 months use, but didn't work out that way. That said, I did thoroughly re-clean the rads (had been Blitz-ed previously) and ran multiple distilled water flushes with everything before throwing it back up.

Edited March 28, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[Avacado]

12 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Well that's true, just didn't think they'd wear out that fast. I'll be sure to grab some inhibitor/biocide and treat it every few months. I purchased MMM Modwater clear for this new build. But nope, I've never ran a colored coolant in my loops ever. Aside from the reuse of the XSPC 240 rads, the EK GTX 980 block, Monsoon fittings, everything else in the loop, including the tubing was new.

 

Now I did not get a Blitz Kit for this loop as like I said it was supposed to be temporary like maybe up to 6 months use, but didn't work out that way. That said, I did thoroughly re-clean the rads (had been Blitz-ed previously) and ran multiple distilled water flushes with everything before throwing it back up.

I have not read previously to when I chimed in. I am assuming you AREN'T reusing that tubing correct? I wouldn't at this point. If you do HAVE to reuse it, I would suggest something like this in a healthy 90%+ alcohol bath. This will kill and clean your tubing, but won't cure the Ph imbalance that probably lead to it's growth. 

Edited March 28, 2022 by Avacado

[Sir Beregond]

9 minutes ago, Avacado said:

I have not read previously to when I chimed in. I am assuming you AREN'T reusing that tubing correct? I wouldn't at this point. If you do HAVE to reuse it, I would suggest something like this in a healthy 90%+ alcohol bath. 

Oh hell no. Only thing out of the water cooling parts I am reusing out of this teardown is the reservoir/pump.

 

I will be using the 14mm Corsair hardline tubing in white. Still wanted white tubing, but thought I'd try hardline.

Edited March 28, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[J7SC_Orion]

FYI, I've been using Primochill Advanced LRT (incl. white) for a while with no visible deterioration - bar one: When I had some Nickel coating come off a TR CPU block. Exposed copper can do all kinds of things, even with inhibitors in the fluid.

 

All that said, earlier version of PrimoChill tubing I had from around 2014 (PrimoChill Pro) easily coated up with deposits after about 12 months, even with the same liquids and additives. That's one reason why they switched it over to the newer PrimoChill Advanced LRT...

 

Could your 4790K tubing perhaps be the older 'Pro' kind (boxes look almost identical) ?

[Sir Beregond]

44 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

FYI, I've been using Primochill Advanced LRT (incl. white) for a while with no visible deterioration - bar one: When I had some Nickel coating come off a TR CPU block. Exposed copper can do all kinds of things, even with inhibitors in the fluid.

 

All that said, earlier version of PrimoChill tubing I had from around 2014 (PrimoChill Pro) easily coated up with deposits after about 12 months, even with the same liquids and additives. That's one reason why they switched it over to the newer PrimoChill Advanced LRT...

 

Could your 4790K tubing perhaps be the older 'Pro' kind (boxes look almost identical) ?

This was a new box of Primochill Advanced LRT in white purchased in September 2020 at Micro Center in a case swap rebuild that was supposed to be temporary until I got to current rig build. That said, the EK gpu block was flaking nickel badly at the time.

 

Anyway to any new readers, so far this is just the loop tear down of old rig as I needed the res/pump so I can proceed with the next prep step (Blitz part 2 of new loop components). Nothing else is being reused as I have new radiators, blocks, fittings, tubing, and a Mayhems Blitz kit. Hoping to get Part 2 going tonight. Results of Blitz Part 1 and 5 distilled water flushes each of the new rads are shown towards the end of page 1.

 

My goal with part 2 is to setup everything in the bathroom and run the part 2 and then necessary distilled flushes. I got some cheap barbs and using the rest of the flexible tube I have left for this. I also have an inline filter I will be using for this step. Probably going to go res/pump -> rad 1 -> rad2 -> filter -> gpu block -> CPU block -> back to res/pump for the Part 2 run and flushes.

Edited March 28, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[Sir Beregond]

Well upon removing the pump again, the arm finally snapped. A dab of gorilla glue fixed that right up.

 

 

Edited March 29, 2022 by Sir Beregond
uploading images from phone keep flipping them

[Sir Beregond]

So...need to ask my fellow Dark Hero folks @ArchStanton, @J7SC_Orion: have you ever encountered an error 02 on the Q-code reader? 02 corresponds to "AP Initialization before microcode loading".

 

The Dark Hero seems to not be liking my 3070.

 

During boot, nothing gets displayed, the 3070 fans do start up, but once the code hits 02, the fans stop and nothing displays still. I can otherwise confirm that the 3070 works because although there are no Windows 8.1 drivers for it, plugging it into my current machine otherwise worked out fine and although only a windows generic display driver, it had no issues displaying. I am at a loss and wondering if I am screwed having sat on this motherboard for a year when the build went on hiatus.

Edited March 29, 2022 by Sir Beregond