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Build Log - Sir B's Black/White/Gold O11-Dynamic


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2 minutes ago, Avacado said:

2 things of note. If you clicked "Rushed Order", make sure you get your money back as it went past that deadline. Also check your rewards (Points) balance as I often have to remind them of the points i'm owed. 

I did, so will do. 

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Well heard back from PPCs today. I emailed shipping yesterday afternoon after the order went a whole additional day of "processing", which it is still in by the way. They said I had missed the cutoff for the shipping option I selected. I then said well, regardless it's still in processing all of Tuesday and Wednesday and today is Thursday, so unless it is going out today and gets here by Saturday, its going to get here too late for me to do anything this weekend (I had chosen a USPS 2-day shipping option on Tuesday). So if it doesn't ship in the next hour based on your cutoff time for that shipping option, just switch me to free shipping at this stage.

 

Will see what happens.

 

Edit: Guess there was a mixup. They are going to make sure it ships today and will be doing UPS 2-day with a Saturday delivery. So think we are good! Can continue working the build this weekend. They also said in thee future that the USPS option was probably not a good one to choose as they have been "unreliable" and longer than it says, so I will keep that in mind for the future.

Edited by Sir Beregond
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28 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Well heard back from PPCs today. I emailed shipping yesterday afternoon after the order went a whole additional day of "processing", which it is still in by the way. They said I had missed the cutoff for the shipping option I selected. I then said well, regardless it's still in processing all of Tuesday and Wednesday and today is Thursday, so unless it is going out today and gets here by Saturday, its going to get here too late for me to do anything this weekend (I had chosen a USPS 2-day shipping option on Tuesday). So if it doesn't ship in the next hour based on your cutoff time for that shipping option, just switch me to free shipping at this stage.

 

Will see what happens.

 

Edit: Guess there was a mixup. They are going to make sure it ships today and will be doing UPS 2-day with a Saturday delivery. So think we are good! Can continue working the build this weekend. They also said in thee future that the USPS option was probably not a good one to choose as they have been "unreliable" and longer than it says, so I will keep that in mind for the future.

Yea, their default shipping is FedEx and it's fast. I usually get my packages within 2 business days from FL to NC. 

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6 minutes ago, Avacado said:

Yea, their default shipping is FedEx and it's fast. I usually get my packages within 2 business days from FL to NC. 

They usually use UPS for me in CO and it's usually not fast for the default shipping. Like I can order on a Monday and maybe it gets here Friday or Saturday type of thing.

Edited by Sir Beregond

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Had to tear out all the rads to mount the pump/reservoir and while I was at it, I completely redid all the cable management in the back. It's not great, but will work. I kinda wish these SW3 had a daisy chain feature, but that's ok. All the cables go in the back.

 

Also got my rotary fittings for top radiator and the 12-pin cable in today.

 

Anyway got it all refitted so the only thing next to do is to start bending some tubes.

 

 

 

 

20220430_201624.jpg

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15 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Had to tear out all the rads to mount the pump/reservoir and while I was at it, I completely redid all the cable management in the back. It's not great, but will work. I kinda wish these SW3 had a daisy chain feature, but that's ok. All the cables go in the back.

 

Also got my rotary fittings for top radiator and the 12-pin cable in today.

 

Anyway got it all refitted so the only thing next to do is to start bending some tubes.

 

 

 

 

20220430_201624.jpg

 

Love the way the GPU power cable looks. The build is coming together really nicely!

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Love that build color the gold fitting are awesome! 

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Slowly coming together. I think the tube going from the meter to the bottom rad is slightly too tall, so will have to cut it a bit more, but slowly coming together. I am finding bending to not be all that hard to do, but the measuring is difficult to get exactly right.

 

 

20220501_213708.jpg

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10 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Slowly coming together. I think the tube going from the meter to the bottom rad is slightly too tall, so will have to cut it a bit more, but slowly coming together. I am finding bending to not be all that hard to do, but the measuring is difficult to get exactly right.

 

 

20220501_213708.jpg

Looking Shweet! Yea, the bottom run is a bit tall. 5-10mm should fix it right up. 

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13 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Slowly coming together. I think the tube going from the meter to the bottom rad is slightly too tall, so will have to cut it a bit more, but slowly coming together. I am finding bending to not be all that hard to do, but the measuring is difficult to get exactly right.

 

 

20220501_213708.jpg

Looks good! I love the black, white and gold 😍

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Redid the tube from the top rad to the gpu as the previous one was not quite right. Also went ahead and slightly shortened the one going from the sensor to the bottom rad.

 

 

20220505_002749.jpg

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So I need some advice. Now that I am hitting some tighter areas with multiple bends, I am actually having a hard time cutting the tubing with the room I have to work with.

 

The hacksaw method sucked as it was hard to get it straight down every time and often ended up with an angled cut.

 

Then I bought one of these from Harbor Freight which has mostly been good except that its just not quite big enough to cut straight through the entire tube...which becomes problematic  if you already have a bend in it and flipping the tube around causes it to interfere with the housing of the saw.

 

Is there anything better I should be looking at for cutting the tubing? I thought of maybe picking up one of those Bitspower drill bits for doing small cuts (and chamfer at the same time) once the tube run is mostly to size and just needs small adjustments. But I'm not really sure best way to go about doing normal cuts now.

 

I know @Avacado, you usually know the best ways to go here.

 

Edit: Its the white Corsair pmma tubing in 14mm.

 

 

Edited by Sir Beregond

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6 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

So I need some advice. Now that I am hitting some tighter areas with multiple bends, I am actually having a hard time cutting the tubing with the room I have to work with.

 

The hacksaw method sucked as it was hard to get it straight down every time and often ended up with an angled cut.

 

Then I bought one of these from Harbor Freight which has mostly been good except that its just not quite big enough to cut straight through the entire tube...which becomes problematic  if you already have a bend in it and flipping the tube around causes it to interfere with the housing of the saw.

 

Is there anything better I should be looking at for cutting the tubing? I thought of maybe picking up one of those Bitspower drill bits for doing small cuts (and chamfer at the same time) once the tube run is mostly to size and just needs small adjustments. But I'm not really sure best way to go about doing normal cuts now.

 

I know @Avacado, you usually know the best ways to go here.

 

Edit: Its the white Corsair pmma tubing in 14mm.

 

 

 

I've had great success cutting various types of PC w-cooling tubing with my little Dremel tool (not the big one reserved for home improvements).

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6 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

I've had great success cutting various types of PC w-cooling tubing with my little Dremel tool (not the big one reserved for home improvements).

Something like this? Small Dremmel

 

Ok, let me ask you this. If I were to grab a dremmel, what would be the best way to go about securing the tubing and making sure I get a straight cut since its more a freehand tool. Are you using some sort of clamp on a work table?

Edited by Sir Beregond
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19 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Something like this? Small Dremmel

 

Ok, let me ask you this. If I were to grab a dremmel, what would be the best way to go about securing the tubing and making sure I get a straight cut since its more a freehand tool. Are you using some sort of clamp on a work table?

 

...I actually use the Dremel 'brand' but it looks otherwise very similar...the key is to get a combo of cutting wheels with it, ie. different ones for plastics/acrylic, for wood and for metals. That said, I've used the metal ones for acrylic just fine.

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1 hour ago, Sir Beregond said:

So I need some advice. Now that I am hitting some tighter areas with multiple bends, I am actually having a hard time cutting the tubing with the room I have to work with.

 

The hacksaw method sucked as it was hard to get it straight down every time and often ended up with an angled cut.

 

Then I bought one of these from Harbor Freight which has mostly been good except that its just not quite big enough to cut straight through the entire tube...which becomes problematic  if you already have a bend in it and flipping the tube around causes it to interfere with the housing of the saw.

 

Is there anything better I should be looking at for cutting the tubing? I thought of maybe picking up one of those Bitspower drill bits for doing small cuts (and chamfer at the same time) once the tube run is mostly to size and just needs small adjustments. But I'm not really sure best way to go about doing normal cuts now.

 

I know @Avacado, you usually know the best ways to go here.

 

Edit: Its the white Corsair pmma tubing in 14mm.

 

 

This is why we always say to buy 10x what you need. There comes a point on tubing where if you have to remove <1-4mm, it is always better to just bend a new tube (the usual cutting tools aren't good for close cuts). You can go with what J7 said, you would need a vice grip with padding to not scuff the tubing. There is a 2" table saw on harbor freight that I bought, but it doesn't quite cut all the way through 16mm tubing. Should be fine for your 14mm white. 

 

*Edit: Just saw (Pun intended) that you listed the HF saw, lol. 

 

You could always do what I do sometimes. Take a Tube cutter and and trim. It will almost always give an uneven cut when you are trying to remove such a little amount. Then just sand the end down to uniformity. 

Edited by Avacado
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14 minutes ago, Avacado said:

This is why we always say to buy 10x what you need. There comes a point on tubing where if you have to remove <1-4mm, it is always better to just bend a new tube (the usual cutting tools aren't good for close cuts). You can go with what J7 said, you would need a vice grip with padding to not scuff the tubing. There is a 2" table saw on harbor freight that I bought, but it doesn't quite cut all the way through 16mm tubing. Should be fine for your 14mm white. 

That's the saw I am using now and linked above. Its the 2 inch mini bench top cut off saw.

It does not cut all the way through the 14mm Corsair stuff either, which has been my problem with it if there's already a bend in the tubing. Can't exactly flip the tubing and finish the cut as the bends interfere with the housing.

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Just now, Sir Beregond said:

That's the saw I am using now and linked above. Its the 2 inch mini bench top cut off saw.

It does not cut all the way through the 14mm Corsair stuff either, which has been my problem with it if there's already a bend in the tubing. Can't exactly flip the tubing and finish the cut as the bends interfere with the housing.

See my edit. If you don't have that tube cutter, just use the rotational one and spin it around. The cut won't be even and then use rough grit sandpaper to make it approximated. 

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10 minutes ago, Avacado said:

See my edit. If you don't have that tube cutter, just use the rotational one and spin it around. The cut won't be even and then use rough grit sandpaper to make it approximated. 

Oh interesting. I was under the impression those cutters worked for PETG, but not so much for acrylic. I'll check it out.

 

What are your thoughts on something like this instead of the sandpaper? 

 

Edit: As for the tubing, not to worry, I have 2 more boxes of it, and 1 more 1m piece in the first box. I've only gone through 2 meters so far. 7 meters total left to make these 3 runs.

Edited by Sir Beregond

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FYI, for the Raven_B project that uses copper tubing, I initially used this table saw, per below - it certainly makes clean cuts with the guide and cuts all the way through. However, I started using the Dremel for metal and plastics instead...as long as you can clamp the tubing (keep it from moving) and don't drink too much coffee beforehand, you should be able to make clean cuts !

 

tablesaw_Raven_B.thumb.jpg.f3fb723a9ff11b893d74e91197b67c87.jpg

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12 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Oh interesting. I was under the impression those cutters worked for PETG, but not so much for acrylic. I'll check it out.

 

What are your thoughts on something like this instead of the sandpaper? 

 

Edit: As for the tubing, not to worry, I have 2 more boxes of it, and 1 more 1m piece in the first box. I've only gone through 2 meters so far. 7 meters total left to make these 3 runs.

YES! You are right, I forgot you were using acrylic. Do NOT use that cutter with acrylic, it will crack the tubes. The finishing bit is a good idea, however I have never used one and can't advise you on that. I would go with what J7 and Janco are suggesting. 

Edited by Avacado
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25 minutes ago, iamjanco said:

Best tool I ever bought/used to cut acrylic tubing (Bitspower Crystal stuff): the Alphacool Eiskoffer - HardTube saw tool. Great jig if you're going hand saw. 

 

2022-05-06_12-52-29.jpg.abc8f9f16dd8754d6b7f3d81e71412cf.jpg

 

10 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

FYI, for the Raven_B project that uses copper tubing, I initially used this table saw, per below - it certainly makes clean cuts with the guide and cuts all the way through. However, I started using the Dremel for metal and plastics instead...as long as you can clamp the tubing (keep it from moving) and don't drink too much coffee beforehand, you should be able to make clean cuts !

 

tablesaw_Raven_B.thumb.jpg.f3fb723a9ff11b893d74e91197b67c87.jpg

 

7 minutes ago, Avacado said:

YES! You are right, I forgot you were using acrylic. Do NOT use that cutter with acrylic, it will crack the tubes. The finishing bit is a good idea, however I have never used one and can't advise you on that. I would go with what J7 and Janco are suggesting. 

Thank you everyone. I will take a look at getting that jig for holding the tubing and a small dremmel and see how that goes.

 

I think I will also give that finishing bit a try. Supposedly can use it at a higher speed on the drill for making those small "cuts" and then of course normal/slower speeds for reaming/smoothing it out.

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CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K, Core i9-10900K, Core i3-13100, Core i9-13900KS
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RAM: Corsair 32GB DDR3-2400 | Oloy Blade 16GB DDR4-3600 | Crucial 16GB DDR5-5600
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS Z97 Deluxe | EVGA Z490 Dark | EVGA Z790 Dark Kingpin
SSD/NVME: Samsung 870 Evo 1TB | Inland 1TB Gen 4
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Just now, Sir Beregond said:

 

 

Thank you everyone. I will take a look at getting that jig for holding the tubing and a small dremmel and see how that goes.

 

I think I will also give that finishing bit a try. Supposedly can use it at a higher speed on the drill for making those small "cuts" and then of course normal/slower speeds for reaming/smoothing it out.

For now, until you get those extras. I would just bend a new tube as you seem to have plenty left over. I know you had wanted to finish the build this weekend. 

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