Build Log - Sir B's Black/White/Gold O11-Dynamic

[ArchStanton]

9 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

CPU-Z once I get Windows on it?

Winner winner chicken dinner!

 

 

Also, if you still have the opportunity and haven't already done so, get yourself a reference picture of the processor itself.

 

 

(That was my original dud, not the almost dud I have now )

[Sir Beregond]

The show goes on in the meantime. Got my Blitz Part 2 running. The Wix 33003 filter unfortunately has a small leak in the housing, but it's small, maybe a drop every couple minutes or so. Worked all the air bubbles out of the rads and both blocks. There's a bit of a bubble in the filter, but it's getting smaller. I figured filter between rads and blocks to catch anything that might gunk up the microfins.

 

 

[ArchStanton]

14 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

The Wix 33003 filter unfortunately has a small leak in the housing

 Well s#!t.  Maybe its not such a bad thing that I don't own any Wix stock.  Regardless, the store where you purchased should allow you to exchange it once it dries out (it should fail an air leak test for them).

[ArchStanton]

Mannix-Ita dropped some kind of new tool he has created into several of the major AMD-centric threads I follow over at OCN.  I haven't checked it out at all myself, but he seems both knowledgeable and respected.  I thought you might have an interest in it if it works well.

 

https://www.overclock.net/threads/benchmaestro-cpu-gpu-benchmarking-and-tools-utility.1797775/

Edited April 2, 2022 by ArchStanton
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[J7SC_Orion]

20 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

The show goes on in the meantime. Got my Blitz Part 2 running. The Wix 33003 filter unfortunately has a small leak in the housing, but it's small, maybe a drop every couple minutes or so. Worked all the air bubbles out of the rads and both blocks. There's a bit of a bubble in the filter, but it's getting smaller. I figured filter between rads and blocks to catch anything that might gunk up the microfins.

 

 

 

...that's why one does leak testing in the first place - and I like the bath-towel precaution 

 

Once you got the leak taken care of and you're setting up your system, Ryzen RAM tuning awaits . As far as I recall, you have a GSkill Neo 3600 CL16 kit (2 sticks x16?) for your 5900X ? It might be worth your while to see if the IMC will go above 1900 / DDR4 3800, ie. via using really loose timings such as 18-18-18-38 tRC 56.

 

In practice, it won't make that much difference as long as you can reach 1800/3600 but still, you'll never know until you try to max your IMC w/o going overboard on voltages. I can get to IF 2000 / DDR 4000 on mine, but there's always a bit of a tradeoff between timing and latency for daily apps. The top one below is an older 3866 4x8 kit at an actual 1900/3800, center is a newer 4000 kit at an actual 1933/3866, and bottom is the 4000 kit at 2000/4000. 

 

When setting the newer-gen AM4s up, I tend to have SoC < 1.1v (per above, Zen timings)...while it is safe even a bit above that, there are a lot of short voltage spikes happening which can go unnoticed by HWInfo et al (same w/ CPU and GPU - especially the latest crop w/ aggressive boost algorithms). Excessive SoCv is one good way to shorten the life span. Another quick tip is re. tRC and tFAW...for stress testing and benches, I can run them much tighter than I actually do...that is because with some games, low 1% and 10% can stutter just a bit more if those are too tight (even if it all passes stress testing).

 

Weekend coming up - have fun on your build ! 

 

[Sir Beregond]

Thank you both! Definitely interested in doing what I can on that front!

 

Anyway, got some more distilled water, so doing the drain of the Blitz Part 2 and then will be doing the subsequent distilled runs tonight. Looking forward to seeing how the filter did. The blocks look completely free of any gunk, but not immediately seeing anything in the filter either, so maybe the Blitz Part 1 did it's job. 

[J7SC_Orion]

6 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Thank you both! Definitely interested in doing what I can on that front!

 

Anyway, got some more distilled water, so doing the drain of the Blitz Part 2 and then will be doing the subsequent distilled runs tonight. Looking forward to seeing how the filter did. The blocks look completely free of any gunk, but not immediately seeing anything in the filter either, so maybe the Blitz Part 1 did it's job. 

 

...forgot to mention a quick tip before: Once you configured your system, set up your CPU, RAM and GPU to your liking and did a few benches, you might want to use a similar or identical drive and 'ghost' your setup (ie. Macrium), for future comparison purposes.

 

...the more patches and updates AMD and Windows deliver, the slower things like L3 get with otherwise identical settings. With an original setup drive, you can differentiate what are hardware changes and what are software / OS patch related impacts. L3 in particular gets affected by a lot of chipset driver and OS patch 'fixes'...per below, same settings (slower clock was in one was due to some other background item).

 

EDIT @Sir Beregond

 

...further to my comment yesterday and low 1% / 10% frame-time issues in games when oc'ing RAM beyond a certain point that still appears stable in benchies, this came out today by coincidence. While the vid is about DDR5,  DDR4 can show similar impacts.

 

...you can try a big monster app such as Microsoft FS2020 if you have a decent internet connection (because the connection can also lead to stutter) to test out your RAM oc.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 3, 2022 by J7SC_Orion

[ArchStanton]

Apologies jacking your thread Beregond.  Just wanted to say this here rather than "over there", as it seemed like there were plenty of people already pointing out his mistakes and I didn't want to "pile on".

 

Air builds up in custom cooling loop. | Overclock.net

 

That loop makes 0 sense to me.  I don't care if he has an EE rather than ME.  The school should refund his tuition IMO because anybody that obtains any flavor of E degree should be able to see why it isn't going to work.  Hell, EE should have a leg up given the similarities of the relationships between voltage/amperage vs pressure/flow.

 

/rant off

 

Sorry, that thread has been bugging me since he created it.  I have so far resisted the temptation to scream IDIOT! at him.  I am confident that expressing my snide comments here will allow me to continue to do so.

 

Hit us up with some progress reports on your build when you can.  I am eager to see more .

 

[Sir Beregond]

Yeah that loop made zero sense. And I know parallel can be fine, but definitely not when you've screwed up everything else.

 

Yeah finished my flushes over the weekend. But had some other stuff going on so haven't progressed to the build yet. Honestly probably no updates again until the following weekend. May get a parts pic or two otherwise.

 

Also huge thanks to @iamjanco who sent me a new retention ring for my pump to replace the one I broke and glued. I believe should get that in tomorrow.

Edited April 4, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[Sir Beregond]

Been pretty windy here. Will be checking the mail later on today, looks like the retention ring was delivered, so guessing they are using one of the package mailboxes here.

 

As for the loop, I tore it down on Monday after completing the flushes following the Blitz Part 2. The filter has absolutely nothing visible in it, so must have been pretty clean following the Blitz Part 1.

 

Outside of that, got some paracord sleeved cables for the new PSU. I don't really trust those 3rd party cable extensions, so for all their faults, I can at least say Corsair offers sleeved cable sets.

 

Anyway, the rest of my week and possibly Saturday is looking pretty busy, so probably no more real updates until this weekend.

[Sir Beregond]

Huge thank you @iamjanco, new retention ring arrived safe and sound!

 

 

[Sir Beregond]

So update. I am trading my 3070 (full hash), waterblock, and one of my old 240 rads and some $$$ for an FE 3080 Ti.

[J7SC_Orion]

9 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

So update. I am trading my 3070 (full hash), waterblock, and one of my old 240 rads and some $$$ for an FE 3080 Ti.

 

Nice. Are you going to w-cool the FE / 3080 Ti ?

[Sir Beregond]

25 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

Nice. Are you going to w-cool the FE / 3080 Ti ?

Absolutely! Already got an order in to PPCs. Out of the in-stock options available, opted for the Alphacool block.

Edited April 13, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[Sir Beregond]

It's here...

 

Waterblock should be here later today. While not using the air cooler, will give it a good cleaning as well as the fans.

 

 

Edited April 16, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[Sir Beregond]

Cleaned up the dust and waterblock is here. 

 

Hope to get started this weekend. May need to find a cheap case to put my current rig in so I am not down while building this new one into my existing case.

 

 

Edited April 18, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[J7SC_Orion]

33 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Cleaned up the dust and waterblock is here. 

 

Hope to get started this weekend. May need to find a cheap case to put my current rig in so I am not down while building this new one into my existing case.

 

...what about 'ye olde mobo cardboard box' temporary test-bench / case approach ?

[Sir Beregond]

20 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

...what about 'ye olde mobo cardboard box' temporary test-bench / case approach ?

The wife may not like that mess. 

[ArchStanton]

3 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

The wife may not like that mess.

Cardboard accepts paint reasonably well.  Just don't saturate to the point of "soggy" .

[Sir Beregond]

10 minutes ago, ArchStanton said:

Cardboard accepts paint reasonably well.  Just don't saturate to the point of "soggy" .

LOL! Was thinking more the cable mess with 3 drives and such, but guess can at least lose the fans.

 

Still, may pop down to Micro Center and see if there is a cheap case I can transfer current rig into for now as I suspect the new one will take me a lot longer to get up and running given the hard line (and first time attempting it).

 

On another note, does anyone have any suggestions for good individually sleeved/paracord cables for the PCIe 12-pin? Will use the included adapter for now, but is definitely a little unsightly. I have a paracord set to use with the RM1000x.

Edited April 18, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[Sir Beregond]

Running the new block through a Blitz Part 2 run, just to make sure its all clean. Everything else of course has been cleaned already and is ready to go. Glad I got that extra gallon of distilled water.

 

Does anyone have any suggestion for a 12-pin PCIe cable solution that is individually sleeved or maybe even paracord? Found a few things out there, but just not sure. I'm usually very wary of cable extensions and such. The sleeved cables I used on my AX750 and the new set I got for the RM1000x are both made by Corsair, so figured they were safe. But doesn't look like they offer an individually sleeved version for the 12-pin.

Edited April 19, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[iamjanco]

7 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Does anyone have any suggestion for a 12-pin PCIe cable solution that is individually sleeved or maybe even paracord? Found a few things out there, but just not sure. I'm usually very wary of cable extensions and such. The sleeved cables I used on my AX750 and the new set I got for the RM1000x are both made by Corsair, so figured they were safe. But doesn't look like they offer an individually sleeved version for the 12-pin.

 

Hard to say, but it could still be a bit early to be looking for the newly introduced 12 pin pcie layouts to be showing up in custom cable shops. I'd normally recommend Mod-One (Titan Rig) as the others have already suggested, or Ensourced Custom Cables (I used them a few years ago).

 

I'd send either (or both of them) a message to see where they're at with the new design.

 

Another option would of course be making your own set of cables; if it were me and I wanted said cables, I'd go that route as I'd already have the connectors I needed to do so in the cable provided by the psu manufacturer (would just need to remove them from that cable). The tools and know-how are already in place as well (I've got a fairly broad collection of crimpers; might need to get some pins though, depending...). 

 

Ref.

 

Matt's Tech Pages: Common Wire-To-Board, Wire-To-Wire Connectors, And Crimp Tools

MOLEX Micro-Fit Connector System (seek out dual row 12pin; glow wire capable recommended)

PCIe Gen 5 Power Connector Compatible with NVIDIA GeForce RTX 30 Series Founders Edition 12-Pin Molex Micro-Fit 3.0

EVGA GeForce RTX 3090 Ti Kingpin to Feature Dual 12-Pin Power Connectors, Allows for Up to 1,275 Watts of Power Consumption

 

added (for illustrative purposes only)

 

Octoparts: Molex 1729521202 Micro-Fit TPA Receptacle Housing, Dual Row, 12 Circuits, UL 94V-2, Glow-Wire Capable, Black

 

 

 

Edited April 19, 2022 by iamjanco

[Sir Beregond]

Starting my distilled flush runs following the Blitz Part 2. Some blueish gunk ended up in the microfins (my mistake for forgetting to add the filter back to this run), so will have to open up the block and clean that out.

 

Not really sure what the gunk is from as the tubing and pump already ran through a Blitz Part 2 cycle and is only connected with the block. Maybe the block had some sort of residue that cycled through and deposited on the fins. Who knows.

 

Always clean your stuff folks.

[Avacado]

1 hour ago, Sir Beregond said:

Starting my distilled flush runs following the Blitz Part 2. Some blueish gunk ended up in the microfins (my mistake for forgetting to add the filter back to this run), so will have to open up the block and clean that out.

 

Not really sure what the gunk is from as the tubing and pump already ran through a Blitz Part 2 cycle and is only connected with the block. Maybe the block had some sort of residue that cycled through and deposited on the fins. Who knows.

 

Always clean your stuff folks.

Blue is almost always Copper Oxide. Do a double check on all your microfins to make sure you don't have any nickel flaking. 

[Sir Beregond]

29 minutes ago, Avacado said:

Blue is almost always Copper Oxide. Do a double check on all your microfins to make sure you don't have any nickel flaking. 

Good call. Will do a closer inspection when I take the block apart.

 

Blue could also be from the Blitz Part 2, it is a bit blueish. Will see.