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Build Log - Sir B's Black/White/Gold O11-Dynamic


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11 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Looky what I'm doing today. 😁 I did take @Avacado advice and flip the bottom rad fans to intake (in pull). Still working on bleeding air out for now, then will hook it all up and see how things are looking.

 

Edit: ok all the big air is bled out now, just will work out the micro bubbles over time. Total coolant usage was approximately 850-900ml.

 

20220612_193414.thumb.jpg.58b4fcf157cb8cef8a619b3eede8b3a0.jpg

That is coming together nicely, bro. Congrats on the build.

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On 07/06/2022 at 22:14, Sir Beregond said:

I finished draining the loop tonight. There seems to be approximately 150ml of fluid left in the loop, I'm guessing stuck in the rads at this point. Will be doing a very thorough flushing and a blitz part 2 run when I get some more distilled water.

 

Anyway, here's what the drained fluid looks like. I think a lot of the big particles either broke up or lodged in the Optimus block which appears very gunked up. But you can still see some floaties.

 

For comparison the second image is another bottle after vigorous shaking and it's full of this gunk too.

 

 

 

 

20220607_230810.jpg

20220607_231126.jpg

I add a couple of these to my systems. They do a nice job and can be easily cleaned and reassembled. At least easily cleaned in my case because I use soft tubing and QDC fittings. I install the filters next to a QDC fitting with a ball valve on the inlet side, so that makes it convenient and a no-mess exercise.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FNYS9YH

 

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1 hour ago, Mr. Fox said:

I add a couple of these to my systems. They do a nice job and can be easily cleaned and reassembled. At least easily cleaned in my case because I use soft tubing and QDC fittings. I install the filters next to a QDC fitting with a ball valve on the inlet side, so that makes it convenient and a no-mess exercise.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FNYS9YH

 

Yeah thought about adding one of these in the future. In this case, I spoke to ModMyMods on the phone and it was legitimately a bad batch of coolant from around the time Mick sold off Mayhems. MMM seemed to indicate that that was a problematic transition for them and their additive packs for the Mod Water, but has since been sorted.

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5 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

True. Ok will take a look at doing that tonight. 

 

FYI, once you fixed the mount re. flow direction, recent/the latest HWInfo have a segment for coolant flow...question is how accurate.  

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45 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

FYI, once you fixed the mount re. flow direction, recent/the latest HWInfo have a segment for coolant flow...question is how accurate.  

How would it be getting that data I'd wonder.

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50 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

FYI, once you fixed the mount re. flow direction, recent/the latest HWInfo have a segment for coolant flow...question is how accurate.  

That flow meter he has most likely only has a 3-pin for power. I'm not sure you can actually get readings from it. Other than the LCD readout. 

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44 minutes ago, Avacado said:

That flow meter he has most likely only has a 3-pin for power. I'm not sure you can actually get readings from it. Other than the LCD readout. 

Correct. At some point will grab some Aquacomputer stuff.

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2 hours ago, Avacado said:

That flow meter he has most likely only has a 3-pin for power. I'm not sure you can actually get readings from it. Other than the LCD readout. 

 

...agree - mine isn't even connected, but HWInfo makes me feel good as it says 1.112 million liters/hr. Anyway, I always knew I build really hi-po loops 😂

 

 

Edited by J7SC_Orion

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Well I took the screws out yet there is no give. Finding instructions seems hit or miss and the pdf link I found won't open. @Mr. Fox, @Avacado

 

Edit: Ok, I just put a fitting in there and pried it out with a tube and flipped the impeller. Should be good now.

 

20220613_210400.jpg

Edited by Sir Beregond
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12 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Well I took the screws out yet there is no give. Finding instructions seems hit or miss and the pdf link I found won't open. @Mr. Fox, @Avacado

 

Edit: Ok, I just put a fitting in there and pried it out with a tube and flipped the impeller. Should be good now.

 

20220613_210400.jpg

 

 

...watch how I get myself in trouble here...🙃

 

If you have some tubing left over, I would just leave out the 'flowmeter' completely...personally, I think it is silly.  You rarely if ever find one in the hi-po systems that run dual CPUs and 5+ 3090s and such for workstation+ apps. I've been building custom loops for a decade, including for commercial, and I rather hang myself than use a flowmeter. That said, I never use less than 2x D5s in a given loop circuit, but when starting out with a build, you establish a baseline on air. It should be immediately obvious if your subsequent w-cooling setup is not performing.  Then again, if you want to add racing stripes to make your build go faster...

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22 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

 

...watch how I get myself in trouble here...🙃

 

If you have some tubing left over, I would just leave out the 'flowmeter' completely...personally, I think it is silly.  You rarely if ever find one in the hi-po systems that run dual CPUs and 5+ 3090s and such for workstation+ apps. I've been building custom loops for a decade, including for commercial, and I rather hang myself than use a flowmeter. That said, I never use less than 2x D5s in a given loop circuit, but when starting out with a build, you establish a baseline on air. It should be immediately obvious if your subsequent w-cooling setup is not performing.  Then again, if you want to add racing stripes to make your build go faster...

To be fair this is the first time I've ever used one having water cooled since 2011-2012ish, but I wanted to actually have some semblance of data to use. Also first time with hard tubing, was curious if all the bends would really affect things much vs the soft tubing where I try to limit my use of 90s.

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48 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

To be fair this is the first time I've ever used one having water cooled since 2011-2012ish, but I wanted to actually have some semblance of data to use. Also first time with hard tubing, was curious if all the bends would really affect things much vs the soft tubing where I try to limit my use of 90s.

 

...I think you have built a gorgeous - not to mention powerful-  system....flowmeter or no flowmeter. 

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22 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

...I think you have built a gorgeous - not to mention powerful-  system....flowmeter or no flowmeter. 

Thank you very much! I just finished refilling and bleeding the air out. Now to see about updating the BIOS and getting started on tweaking.

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Appears to be working and getting good flow at 80% pump speed. About 1 gal/min here. Also oddly enough the pump is of a much better and less noticeable sound profile at 80% vs 60 - 75%.

 

Ambient temp in the room is approx. 21.6C (71F on the thermostat). So appears to be about a 4.5C delta for the coolant temp at idle. Haven't really tried anything at load yet. Fans are all on 1000-1200rpm currently for silence. Will probably dial them in to something else at load...well at least the GTX rad fans. Obviously I know this isn't the most accurate thing, but helps me get an idea.

20220613_233747.thumb.jpg.11d4551167ae429302050fea2d3afc3c.jpg

 

 

Edited by Sir Beregond
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9 hours ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

 

...watch how I get myself in trouble here...🙃

 

If you have some tubing left over, I would just leave out the 'flowmeter' completely...personally, I think it is silly.  You rarely if ever find one in the hi-po systems that run dual CPUs and 5+ 3090s and such for workstation+ apps. I've been building custom loops for a decade, including for commercial, and I rather hang myself than use a flowmeter. That said, I never use less than 2x D5s in a given loop circuit, but when starting out with a build, you establish a baseline on air. It should be immediately obvious if your subsequent w-cooling setup is not performing.  Then again, if you want to add racing stripes to make your build go faster...

They are totally unnecessary. However, I have one for the first time ever and I really like having it. I am a data junkie though. It doesn't make it run any faster, but it is always nice to have useless information. If nothing else, it provides visual confirmation of what I already know. 😉 It is more useful than the chassis lighting and serves a similar aesthetic purpose.

 

I like it even better now that I changed the orientation from vertical to horizontal.

image.png.8043d5e9bd4dfbf8ea55a0ad96faac67.png

7 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Appears to be working and getting good flow at 80% pump speed. About 1 gal/min here. Also oddly enough the pump is of a much better and less noticeable sound profile at 80% vs 60 - 75%.

 

Ambient temp in the room is approx. 21.6C (71F on the thermostat). So appears to be about a 4.5C delta for the coolant temp at idle. Haven't really tried anything at load yet. Fans are all on 1000-1200rpm currently for silence. Will probably dial them in to something else at load...well at least the GTX rad fans. Obviously I know this isn't the most accurate thing, but helps me get an idea.

20220613_233747.thumb.jpg.11d4551167ae429302050fea2d3afc3c.jpg

 

 

Awesome. Glad you got it sorted, bro. Looks good.  That is a good flow rate.

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Updated my Dark Hero BIOS to 3801 last night per @J7SC_Orion suggestion. 

 

Honestly looking through this and very lost. I don't suppose someone has an easy start guide/link/something for Ryzen OCing, RAM OCing. Two things I have no experience with and frankly I am a little lost looking through it.

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9 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Updated my Dark Hero BIOS to 3801 last night per @J7SC_Orion suggestion. 

 

Honestly looking through this and very lost. I don't suppose someone has an easy start guide/link/something for Ryzen OCing, RAM OCing. Two things I have no experience with and frankly I am a little lost looking through it.

 

There are tons of tuning options for Ryzen, but the main steps are fairly simple...set your XMP/DOCP in Extreme Tweaker bios page, enable PBO/2, noting that unlike many folks, I leave the PPT/EDC/TDC values on auto....fMax enhancer should also stay on auto (as in 'not enabled') for Ryzen 5000 series. In addition, I run a small undervolt at -0.00625V. LLC is also on auto.

 

Once PBO is engaged and everything is working, you can return to the DRAM settings and use the earlier-referenced Ryzen DRAM calculator to tighten your timings (lots of testing !). There are a few other steps after that, such as Curve Optimizer you can look at later, but I would first work towards the above with full stability. This > thread has been very helpful when I set my 3950X and 5950X up.

 

Once you reached the above with stability, please post a Zen Timings screenshot, along with HWInfo open during Cinebench R23.

 

Edited by J7SC_Orion
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5 hours ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

There are tons of tuning options for Ryzen, but the main steps are fairly simple...set your XMP/DOCP in Extreme Tweaker bios page, enable PBO/2, noting that unlike many folks, I leave the PPT/EDC/TDC values on auto....fMax enhancer should also stay on auto (as in 'not enabled') for Ryzen 5000 series. In addition, I run a small undervolt at -0.00625V. LLC is also on auto.

 

Once PBO is engaged and everything is working, you can return to the DRAM settings and use the earlier-referenced Ryzen DRAM calculator to tighten your timings (lots of testing !). There are a few other steps after that, such as Curve Optimizer you can look at later, but I would first work towards the above with full stability. This > thread has been very helpful when I set my 3950X and 5950X up.

 

Once you reached the above with stability, please post a Zen Timings screenshot, along with HWInfo open during Cinebench R23.

 

So this might be a dumb question. I see Precision Boost Optimizer, what is PBO/2?

 

Anyway, I ran R23 at stock to get a baseline, got this:

image.png

 

Here's what I was scoring after enabling PBO and setting D.O.C.P. and my RAM to its stock 3600:

 

image.png

 

Of note, not sure why it is showing my OS as Windows 10. I am using Windows 11.

Edited by Sir Beregond

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12 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

So this might be a dumb question. I see Precision Boost Optimizer, what is PBO/2?

 

Anyway, I ran R23 at stock to get a baseline, got this:

image.png

 

Here's what I was scoring after enabling PBO and setting D.O.C.P. and my RAM to its stock 3600:

 

image.png

 

Of note, not sure why it is showing my OS as Windows 10. I am using Windows 11.

 

Looking good !

 

...sorry, just stick with the term 'PBO'. I sometimes use the '/2' solely because I run a 2950X, 3950X and 5950X and there differences in the PBO versions.

 

...CinebenchR23 was released before Windows 11, so it calls it Windows 10 (build 22000).

 

...can you add a ZenTimings screenshot ? Looking not only for timing but voltages (ie. around SoC)

 

When all this is done (looks like you're well on your way!), then you can also explore DynamicOC, and option that sets the Dark Hero board apart, as well as Curve Optimizer.

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52 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

Looking good !

 

...sorry, just stick with the term 'PBO'. I sometimes use the '/2' solely because I run a 2950X, 3950X and 5950X and there differences in the PBO versions.

 

...CinebenchR23 was released before Windows 11, so it calls it Windows 10 (build 22000).

 

...can you add a ZenTimings screenshot ? Looking not only for timing but voltages (ie. around SoC)

 

When all this is done (looks like you're well on your way!), then you can also explore DynamicOC, and option that sets the Dark Hero board apart, as well as Curve Optimizer.

Will be sure to download that and grab the Zen Timings screenshot with next run later today after work or tonight. Looking at HWInfo during the runs, on the single core run, looks like was getting extremely close to 5GHz single core, was maybe 4.96-4.97GHz. During the multi-core run, I think was getting about 4.6GHz all core. Will pay closer attention tonight.

 

Also going to try the slight undervolt like you did and see if that buys me anything.

 

Thanks for your tips so far, been very helpful!

 

EDIT: Temps averaged out to 76C during the r23 run. Is that considered normal? Seemed hot for water, but I grant that I am also coming from a 7 year old system. Maybe that's normal, I have no idea.

Edited by Sir Beregond

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8 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Will be sure to download that and grab the Zen Timings screenshot with next run later today after work or tonight. Looking at HWInfo during the runs, on the single core run, looks like was getting extremely close to 5GHz single core, was maybe 4.96-4.97GHz. During the multi-core run, I think was getting about 4.6GHz all core. Will pay closer attention tonight.

 

Also going to try the slight undervolt like you did and see if that buys me anything.

 

Thanks for your tips so far, been very helpful!

 

EDIT: Temps averaged out to 76C during the r23 run. Is that considered normal? Seemed hot for water, but I grant that I am also coming from a 7 year old system. Maybe that's normal, I have no idea.

 

...76 C is ok, but it also depends on ambient.  Re. Zen Timings, it also contains a nice summary re. IMC related voltages, some of which are quite important. 

 

For 'later', this video by Derbauer is quite good re. the Dynamic OC feature with the CH8 Dark Hero mobo, noting that he has fMax enabled which it actually shouldn't be for Ryzen 5K (it is great though for Ryzen 3k)

 

 

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Not going to be home much this weekend, but I do hope to maybe work on some more tweaking/OCing at night when I am. So hopefully some updates by Monday. Will let you know!

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So was going to submit a Time Spy score on HWBot, but after filling out the form, says "413 Request Entity Too Large" - something you've seen before @Avacado?

 

Got to work on the CPU some more. The 3080 Ti is easily running +120 to the Core clock and +1000 to the memory clock. May see if I can push it some more.

 

 

Edited by Sir Beregond
I meant +120 not +100

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26 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

So was going to submit a Time Spy score on HWBot, but after filling out the form, says "413 Request Entity Too Large" - something you've seen before @Avacado?

 

Got to work on the CPU some more. The 3080 Ti is easily running +100 to the Core clock and +1000 to the memory clock. May see if I can push it some more.

 

 

Yes, that normally occurs when you try to upload screenshots with a file size too large. Try resizing images to 25% of their original value. 

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42 minutes ago, Avacado said:

Yes, that normally occurs when you try to upload screenshots with a file size too large. Try resizing images to 25% of their original value. 

Will do, thanks.

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CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K, Core i9-10900K, Core i3-13100, Core i9-13900KS
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