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Build Log - Sir B's Black/White/Gold O11-Dynamic


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1 hour ago, iamjanco said:

 

That's a real shame after all that work--sorry to see that 😭

 

Here's some info about ModWater that's a couple of years old now, but may still be relevant: ModMyMods.com premix Fluids is made from Mayhems concentrate

 

Also see:  Tons of flakey debris in loop

 

Mick, the original owner of Mayhems, sold the brand not too long back. Hard to say if the new owners might have screwed something up.

 

 

Awe, I had a post on that thread. 2020 keks. 

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I finished draining the loop tonight. There seems to be approximately 150ml of fluid left in the loop, I'm guessing stuck in the rads at this point. Will be doing a very thorough flushing and a blitz part 2 run when I get some more distilled water.

 

Anyway, here's what the drained fluid looks like. I think a lot of the big particles either broke up or lodged in the Optimus block which appears very gunked up. But you can still see some floaties.

 

For comparison the second image is another bottle after vigorous shaking and it's full of this gunk too.

 

 

 

 

20220607_230810.jpg

20220607_231126.jpg

Edited by Sir Beregond

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4 hours ago, Avacado said:

Well, you learned a lesson and taught me one. Always check new coolant before filling. Not something I ever did before. 

Ditto. I also should have just stopped filling it the second I noticed something, but part of me thought, "oh maybe the pump will mix it up". Honestly was just ready to be done with this prolonged project PC.

 

Current plan is to rip everything back out (not sure I am going to take the block off the GPU though) and run a bathroom loop to Blitz part 2 it again and then do subsequent flushes. I want to be thorough. Also need to take the CPU block off and probably clean it manually first. The GPU block by comparison does not have as small a jet plate and microfin structure, so I don't see any gunk stuck in it. Really not sure about the radiators.

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This must be very frrrrrustrating 😡 ! Instead of tuning, oc'ing and playing some games, it's back to loop cleaning...but hang in there - it's a gorgeous build and soon all this little setback will be forgotten.

 

For the two Ravens' Nests builds and their expansive cooling volume, I had picked up one of these (below, 'a bucket for monsieur') but 'cut it' with 30% deionized water...almost a year later, everything is still pristine, per acrylic view windows on CPUs and GPUs. Next time around, I'll likely just go for pure deionized water with some antifungal / anticorrosive drops. 

 

785298971_MayhemsX1UVBlue.thumb.jpg.efda7c7c422e51746bd9de43ba3ec0fb.jpg

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The two bottles of Mayhems XT-1 Nuke I ordered arrived today and look to be perfect, no particles floating around. I also emailed MMM support to see what they say about the Mod Water.

 

I still need to grab some more distilled water to re-clean the loop, but alas, difficult to find around here for some reason. There is one store I can usually find a couple of gallons (which is all I should need) that I'll be by later today or tomorrow. I think I have enough on hand still to make another batch of Blitz Part 2 tonight and get that going at least.

 

EDIT: Just got a call from MMM, they stated they had some bad batches from the Mayhems switchover when Mick stepped down with the additive packs, and that likely is what my bottles are from. Since they don't serialize the bottles, was hard to track who got what when they fixed the issue. They have assured me that those initial pains from the Mayhems transition are resolved and are sending me 3 new bottles of Mod Water clear. Huge props to MMM for the quick response. They also asked if I needed a Blitz kit, but as I already have one, said I was good there.

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4 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

The two bottles of Mayhems XT-1 Nuke I ordered arrived today and look to be perfect, no particles floating around. I also emailed MMM support to see what they say about the Mod Water.

 

I still need to grab some more distilled water to re-clean the loop, but alas, difficult to find around here for some reason. There is one store I can usually find a couple of gallons (which is all I should need) that I'll be by later today or tomorrow. I think I have enough on hand still to make another batch of Blitz Part 2 tonight and get that going at least.

 

EDIT: Just got a call from MMM, they stated they had some bad batches from the Mayhems switchover when Mick stepped down with the additive packs, and that likely is what my bottles are from. Since they don't serialize the bottles, was hard to track who got what when they fixed the issue. They have assured me that those initial pains from the Mayhems transition are resolved and are sending me 3 new bottles of Mod Water clear. Huge props to MMM for the quick response. They also asked if I needed a Blitz kit, but as I already have one, said I was good there.

 

It's good that MMM is stepping up, but still, there's the time lost (never mind disappointment), and the disassembly and reassembly....

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1 hour ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

It's good that MMM is stepping up, but still, there's the time lost (never mind disappointment), and the disassembly and reassembly....

Yeah, I'm tearing down as I write this and its not fun...

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And back to the Blitz part 2 run in the bathroom...

 

I did manually clean the Optimus block.

 

 

 

 

20220609_210155.jpg

20220609_192938.jpg

20220609_192945.jpg

20220609_193400.jpg

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4 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

And back to the Blitz part 2 run in the bathroom...

 

I did manually clean the Optimus block.

 

 

 

 

20220609_210155.jpg

20220609_192938.jpg

20220609_192945.jpg

20220609_193400.jpg

 

Wow - that was significant contamination !  

 

Ed.: ...but once you're done, max your 5900X, pick a medium level oc for the 3080 Ti for FS2020 and go flying in the New Zealand mountains for some reward !

 

1886315613_GlacierNZMtCookScreenshot(1096).thumb.jpg.780eaf6b6233ebe0aa7230ebd94997de.jpg

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11 hours ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

Wow - that was significant contamination !  

 

Ed.: ...but once you're done, max your 5900X, pick a medium level oc for the 3080 Ti for FS2020 and go flying in the New Zealand mountains for some reward !

 

1886315613_GlacierNZMtCookScreenshot(1096).thumb.jpg.780eaf6b6233ebe0aa7230ebd94997de.jpg

Yeah I should probably start reading up on how to even OC on AMD because I do not even know. It was pretty simple on the 4790k - but was sadly a bad overclocker.

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48 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Yeah I should probably start reading up on how to even OC on AMD because I do not even know. It was pretty simple on the 4790k - but was sadly a bad overclocker.

 

...more complex now - especially w/ all the AMD tuning options - than w/ 4790K, but a ton of fun, really. First decision: What bios to run (I use 3801 for Win11 CH8 DarkH). If that bios gives you no troubles re. USB etc, keep it. Next, max RAM speed / timing. Once those are settled, feel free to ask for advice... 

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45 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

...more complex now - especially w/ all the AMD tuning options - than w/ 4790K, but a ton of fun, really. First decision: What bios to run (I use 3801 for Win11 CH8 DarkH). If that bios gives you no troubles re. USB etc, keep it. Next, max RAM speed / timing. Once those are settled, feel free to ask for advice... 

I've never really messed with RAM before aside from just setting the XMP profile to the appropriate speed for what the kit was on my Intel rigs. So yeah will probably have to read up on that too. I have this kit I just picked up from Micro Center:

 

https://www.microcenter.com/product/610708/gskill-trident-z-neo-series-rgb-32gb-(2-x-16gb)-ddr4-3600-pc4-28800-cl16-dual-channel-memory-kit-f4-3600c16d-32gtznc-black

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39 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

I've never really messed with RAM before aside from just setting the XMP profile to the appropriate speed for what the kit was on my Intel rigs. So yeah will probably have to read up on that too. I have this kit I just picked up from Micro Center:

 

https://www.microcenter.com/product/610708/gskill-trident-z-neo-series-rgb-32gb-(2-x-16gb)-ddr4-3600-pc4-28800-cl16-dual-channel-memory-kit-f4-3600c16d-32gtznc-black

 

...tuning RAM can be a dark art, but it is worth it for Ryzen as it reacts really well to it re. fps etc. A MUST HAVE is > this if you're new to it in the Ryzen RAM context - just plug in your RAM specs and select 'safe' or' fast'...this is of course after you turned PBO/2 on but leave values on default. Also, the DynamicOC option in CH8 DarkH is great but should come later / after everything else has been made 'max stable'.

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Ok, finished the Blitz Part 2 run and 3 flushes with distilled water. PH testing is coming out a solid 7 after last run. Parts are drying now. Also cleaned all fittings and the tubing.

 

This gives me an opportunity to think about my fans again. I previously had it where the side is intaking and both radiators are exhausting. Wondering if it makes sense to intake both radiators and exhaust side? I don't know. This case still confuses the hell out of me when it comes to airflow. I definitely think that custom PPCs front panel is in my future.

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38 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Ok, finished the Blitz Part 2 run and 3 flushes with distilled water. PH testing is coming out a solid 7 after last run. Parts are drying now. Also cleaned all fittings and the tubing.

 

This gives me an opportunity to think about my fans again. I previously had it where the side is intaking and both radiators are exhausting. Wondering if it makes sense to intake both radiators and exhaust side? I don't know. This case still confuses the hell out of me when it comes to airflow. I definitely think that custom PPCs front panel is in my future.

Go bottom rad intake/sides intake. Top exhaust

 

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37 minutes ago, Avacado said:

Go bottom rad intake/sides intake. Top exhaust

 

Cool, will do. I usually like doing push, but will probably be in pull since the tube runs are already done.

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Looky what I'm doing today. 😁 I did take @Avacado advice and flip the bottom rad fans to intake (in pull). Still working on bleeding air out for now, then will hook it all up and see how things are looking.

 

Edit: ok all the big air is bled out now, just will work out the micro bubbles over time. Total coolant usage was approximately 850-900ml.

 

20220612_193414.thumb.jpg.58b4fcf157cb8cef8a619b3eede8b3a0.jpg

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1 hour ago, Sir Beregond said:

Looky what I'm doing today. 😁 I did take @Avacado advice and flip the bottom rad fans to intake (in pull). Still working on bleeding air out for now, then will hook it all up and see how things are looking.

 

Edit: ok all the big air is bled out now, just will work out the micro bubbles over time. Total coolant usage was approximately 850-900ml.

 

20220612_193414.thumb.jpg.58b4fcf157cb8cef8a619b3eede8b3a0.jpg

 

...time to oc, bench and game !

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Gotta figure out what's going on with this flow meter. It is reading coolant temp, but flow is showing as 0.00L/min. It didn't come with any instructions, so perhaps I need to do something.

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37 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Gotta figure out what's going on with this flow meter. It is reading coolant temp, but flow is showing as 0.00L/min. It didn't come with any instructions, so perhaps I need to do something.

It may only measure flow with coolant flowing one direction. I think some of them have a removable insert that can be removed and flipped 180° if coolant needs to flow in the opposite direction. 

 

image.png.0f13d9e1521349884ec1fc8932e1a21f.png

Edited by Mr. Fox
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9 minutes ago, Mr. Fox said:

It may only measure flow with coolant flowing one direction. I think some of them have a removable insert that can be removed and flipped 180° if coolant needs to flow in the opposite direction. 

 

image.png.0f13d9e1521349884ec1fc8932e1a21f.png

Hmm well crap. Hope that's not it since I filled it up. But will take a look.

 

Another thing I will have to figure out...I noticed the Dark Hero RGB remains on after the PC is powered off. I am going to have to figure out how to turn that off as when in Windows I used OpenRGB to turn all of that off.

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5 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Hmm well crap. Hope that's not it since I filled it up. But will take a look.

 

Another thing I will have to figure out...I noticed the Dark Hero RGB remains on after the PC is powered off. I am going to have to figure out how to turn that off as when in Windows I used OpenRGB to turn all of that off.

That is a setting in bios. You can set it to off when powerd down. And +1 to what Fox said. Those meters have a one way impellor. You would need to switch it.

Edited by Avacado
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Yeah, it sucks to have to drain the loop to open it up and start the process over again due to simple human error--been there, done that, more often than I would like to admit--but, that would be better than having a defective part and having to deal with an RMA mess right now.

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CPU: Intel Core i9-13900KS - Bare Die
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True. Ok will take a look at doing that tonight. 

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CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K, Core i9-10900K, Core i3-13100, Core i9-13900KS
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RAM: Corsair 32GB DDR3-2400 | Oloy Blade 16GB DDR4-3600 | Crucial 16GB DDR5-5600
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS Z97 Deluxe | EVGA Z490 Dark | EVGA Z790 Dark Kingpin
SSD/NVME: Samsung 870 Evo 1TB | Inland 1TB Gen 4
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CASE: Cooler Master MasterFrame 700 - bench mode
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