Build Log - Sir B's Black/White/Gold O11-Dynamic

[Avacado]

8 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Hmm wish they made an extension that was just slightly bigger. Wasn't quite long enough. Had to put a very slight bend to offset the straight tube run. Not the most elegant solution, but will work for now.

 

I also went ahead and leak tested. I had the EK tester and read it was wrong with where they put the "green zone" on it (typical EK...  ) and attached to where my drain port is and measured it holding at 0.5 bar for 1 hour. It didn't drop even a little bit, so guessing that means its good to go. Anything else I should do with that?

 

Anyway, plan to fill it up tomorrow as its late and I also want to redo a couple cable runs in the back.

 

 

 

 

Aqualink would work.

 

https://shop.bitspower.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=aqua+link&page=2

Edited June 5, 2022 by Avacado

[J7SC_Orion]

12 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Hmm wish they made an extension that was just slightly bigger. Wasn't quite long enough. Had to put a very slight bend to offset the straight tube run. Not the most elegant solution, but will work for now.

 

I also went ahead and leak tested. I had the EK tester and read it was wrong with where they put the "green zone" on it (typical EK...  ) and attached to where my drain port is and measured it holding at 0.5 bar for 1 hour. It didn't drop even a little bit, so guessing that means its good to go. Anything else I should do with that?

 

Anyway, plan to fill it up tomorrow as its late and I also want to redo a couple cable runs in the back.

 

 

 

 

 

If it bothers you but you don't want to plug it apart again at this stage, you might consider putting some  matt black plastic around that connecting tube - or 'dress it' with a much bigger outer black plastic tube or even sphere for an optical illusion, sort of...

[Avacado]

Forgot to answer your second question. You should be FINE with 0.5 Bar held for an hour. I usually go extra cautious at 0.75-1 Bar. Even if there was a very slow leak like losing 0.2 bar from 0.75 in an hour, it still should be fine. Air easily escapes faster and is less dense than water/coolant. I have filled a few complicated loops with very minimal "Air" leaks and had no problems. 

[Sir Beregond]

17 hours ago, Avacado said:

Aqualink would work.

 

https://shop.bitspower.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=aqua+link&page=2

 

Thanks, will take a look at that for the future.

 

This was bugging me and I realized my error. They did make a bigger extension, what I should have ordered was the 15mm instead of the 10mm. So I opted to do a Micro Center run. They don't carry any of the fittings in the brass/gold finish, but I figured let's see what a white extension does for it. I don't know, what do you think? I think it at least works for now.

 

 

7 hours ago, Avacado said:

Forgot to answer your second question. You should be FINE with 0.5 Bar held for an hour. I usually go extra cautious at 0.75-1 Bar. Even if there was a very slow leak like losing 0.2 bar from 0.75 in an hour, it still should be fine. Air easily escapes faster and is less dense than water/coolant. I have filled a few complicated loops with very minimal "Air" leaks and had no problems. 

 

Hmm I was under the impression that much more than 0.6 bar was too much. I may give that a shot then and retest it. I did another test tonight after redoing that area, at 0.5 bar and it held without going down at all for an hour.

 

Anyway, I did a little more cable work in the back to help with the 12-pin Nvidia extension. I also added 4 cable combs to it to help keep it in check. I think it helped a ton.

 

Anyway, here is the completed loop. I may try a different orientation in the future, but for now, I think this ended up alright for a first attempt at hard line. I am unsure if I would ever do hard line again to be honest. But glad I gave it a try.

 

Edited June 6, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[J7SC_Orion]

51 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

 

Thanks, will take a look at that for the future.

 

This was bugging me and I realized my error. They did make a bigger extension, what I should have ordered was the 15mm instead of the 10mm. So I opted to do a Micro Center run. They don't carry any of the fittings in the brass/gold finish, but I figured let's see what a white extension does for it. I don't know, what do you think? I think it at least works for now.

 

 

 

Hmm I was under the impression that much more than 0.6 bar was too much. I may give that a shot then and retest it. I did another test tonight after redoing that area, at 0.5 bar and it held without going down at all for an hour.

 

Anyway, I did a little more cable work in the back to help with the 12-pin Nvidia extension. I also added 4 cable combs to it to help keep it in check. I think it helped a ton.

 

Anyway, here is the completed loop. I may try a different orientation in the future, but for now, I think this ended up alright for a first attempt at hard line. I am unsure if I would ever do hard line again to be honest. But glad I gave it a try.

 

 

That now looks fantastic - great job !

[Sir Beregond]

9 hours ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

That now looks fantastic - great job !

Thanks! Yeah that other way was bothering me, so this will work for now.

[Avacado]

Totally melts in with the build. Looks great!

[J7SC_Orion]

3 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Thanks! Yeah that other way was bothering me, so this will work for now.

 

...and now, the fun begins w/ tuning and oc'ing after water-cooling both CPU and GPU. The CH8 Dark Hero has a myriad of great options (ie. DynamicOC) for simultaneous single-and-multi core performance...and the NVidia RTX3k will not only boost higher due to the water jacket, but apart from MIS AB slides & curves, there is also .../System32/nvidia-smi.exe 

 

...it may take a while, but it is a fun journey, especially as both CPU and GPU have boost algorithms sensitive to temps which now have an ample (and great-looking) water-cooling to get you to the juicy ranges ! BTW, do you have / are you getting FS2020 ?

[Sir Beregond]

41 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

...and now, the fun begins w/ tuning and oc'ing after water-cooling both CPU and GPU. The CH8 Dark Hero has a myriad of great options (ie. DynamicOC) for simultaneous single-and-multi core performance...and the NVidia RTX3k will not only boost higher due to the water jacket, but apart from MIS AB slides & curves, there is also .../System32/nvidia-smi.exe 

 

...it may take a while, but it is a fun journey, especially as both CPU and GPU have boost algorithms sensitive to temps which now have an ample (and great-looking) water-cooling to get you to the juicy ranges ! BTW, do you have / are you getting FS2020 ?

Looking forward to it! First AMD desktop system since my Athlon XP back in the day. Speaking of which, I think @Avacado wanted me to hit him up for some team or whatnot once I was up.

 

I don't have FS2020 right now, but is on my list to pick up.

Edited June 6, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[Avacado]

HWbot

 

Make an account and find the EHW team page to join. 

 

https://hwbot.org/team/extremehw/

Edited June 6, 2022 by Avacado

[Sir Beregond]

39 minutes ago, Avacado said:

HWbot

 

Make an account and find the EHW team page to join. 

 

https://hwbot.org/team/extremehw/

Joined. Looking forward to playing.

[Sir Beregond]

I've got a little problem. Look at this ModWater Clear. It's got gunk floating around in it. Yes it has been stored for a few months but was in a cool dark closet.

 

 

[Sir Beregond]

Yep, not good. Not sure what happened with this Mod Water, but that's 2 out of 3 of my bottles.

 

 

Edited June 7, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[J7SC_Orion]

13 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Yep, not good. Not sure what happened with this Mod Water, but that's 2 out of 3 of my bottles.

 

 

 

Bummer...I would just pick up some gallons of deionized / distilled water and flush the system thoroughly...afterwards, you can use a fresh fill of deionized / distilled water and run it for several weeks in your setup as is - but eventually, add the appropriate amount (a few drops, depends on loop volume) of antifungal & anti-corrosive additive (ie. XSPC etc).

 

Edited June 7, 2022 by J7SC_Orion

[Sir Beregond]

45 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

Bummer...I would just pick up some gallons of deionized / distilled water and flush the system thoroughly...afterwards, you can use a fresh fill of deionized / distilled water and run it for several weeks in your setup as is - but eventually, add the appropriate amount (a few drops, depends on loop volume) of antifungal & anti-corrosive additive (ie. XSPC etc).

 

Yeah, I am incredibly disappointed. Also discovering that my drain system sucks, so now rethinking this whole loop. Looks like I need to put the drain somewhere else.

[Avacado]

That stinks. I just used 4 liters of mod water with no issues. Did you vigorously shake the bottle before use? We can talk about your drain port. Its higher than your bottom rad and thats always an issue.

 

You have some soft tube and a data vac right?

 

Open one of the stop fittings on top of the res and drain. after draining, remove the tubing segment from the res to the CPU inlet. Replace stop fitting on top of res and add stop fitting to pump outlet. Attach soft tubing to CPU inlet and attach data vac. Should help completely drain your system at the current drain port. 

Edited June 7, 2022 by Avacado

[Sir Beregond]

3 hours ago, Avacado said:

That stinks. I just used 4 liters of mod water with no issues. Did you vigorously shake the bottle before use? We can talk about your drain port. Its higher than your bottom rad and thats always an issue.

 

You have some soft tube and a data vac right?

 

Open one of the stop fittings on top of the res and drain. after draining, remove the tubing segment from the res to the CPU inlet. Replace stop fitting on top of res and add stop fitting to pump outlet. Attach soft tubing to CPU inlet and attach data vac. Should help completely drain your system at the current drain port. 

Thanks will do that and then probably just relocate the drain to the other port on the res? Not sure.

 

I did shake both bottle vigorously so not sure what's up.

[Avacado]

9 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Thanks will do that and then probably just relocate the drain to the other port on the res? Not sure.

 

I did shake both bottle vigorously so not sure what's up.

Moving the drain port higher than it already is would be counter-intuitive. Anytime a drain port is higher than a rad, it will always be difficult to drain. You can't fight gravity unless of course you have a datavac. 

[Sir Beregond]

9 minutes ago, Avacado said:

Moving the drain port higher than it already is would be counter-intuitive. Anytime a drain port is higher than a rad, it will always be difficult to drain. You can't fight gravity unless of course you have a datavac. 

Yeah I always struggle a bit when having a bottom mounted rad. Hmm, so the problem I seem to have is getting it drained enough from the CPU block to actually remove that tube run fully. I'll have to play around with this. I got maybe half the coolant drained last night without the data vac. My guess is the rest is in both rads still and the top rad is keeping the CPU block full. Maybe will try inverting case to see if that drains the CPU block enough to remove the tube, attach a soft tube and run the data vac.

 

I also looked at PPCs this morning and looks like they have regular XT-1 clear in stock, so going to order a couple bottles of that in the meantime and then reach out to ModMyMods about these bottles of Mod Water. They were stored properly for about 5 months (not quite), and not sure why it is separating like that. Maybe just a bad batch or something.

Edited June 7, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[Avacado]

9 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Yeah I always struggle a bit when having a bottom mounted rad. Hmm, so the problem I seem to have is getting it drained enough from the CPU block to actually remove that tube run fully. I'll have to play around with this. I got maybe half the coolant drained last night without the data vac. My guess is the rest is in both rads still and the top rad is keeping the CPU block full. Maybe will try inverting case to see if that drains the CPU block enough to remove the tube, attach a soft tube and run the data vac.

 

I also looked at PPCs this morning and looks like they have regular XT-1 clear in stock, so going to order a couple bottles of that in the meantime and then reach out to ModMyMods about these bottles of Mod Water. They were stored properly for about 5 months (not quite), and not sure why it is separating like that. Maybe just a bad batch or something.

It's possible, bad batches happen. Really sucked to see your pictures, especially because I always recommend mod water. Opening up a stop fitting on the top of your res and tilting (45-70 degree tilt) the case towards the front panel should allow for coolant to backflow into the pump and out. 

 

Do you have any of that coolant left? Put it in a clear glass and see if it still has gunk....

Edited June 7, 2022 by Avacado

[Sir Beregond]

6 minutes ago, Avacado said:

It's possible, bad batches happen. Really sucked to see your pictures, especially because I always recommend mod water. Opening up a stop fitting on the top of your res and tilting (45-70 degree tilt) the case towards the front panel should allow for coolant to backflow into the pump and out. 

 

Do you have any of that coolant left? Put it in a clear glass and see if it still has gunk....

Yes I do, and plan to do so later today after work. I drained back into the coolant bottle. Also have the other bottle I opened and discovered to have the same issue. Have a third bottle I haven't opened yet, but same date as the other two so expecting the same thing.

 

Also will need to make a run for distilled water (something that is difficult to source around here), going to Blitz 2 the loop again I think, then flush it.

Edited June 7, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[iamjanco]

12 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Yep, not good. Not sure what happened with this Mod Water, but that's 2 out of 3 of my bottles.

 

 

 

That's a real shame after all that work--sorry to see that 

 

Here's some info about ModWater that's a couple of years old now, but may still be relevant: ModMyMods.com premix Fluids is made from Mayhems concentrate

 

Also see:  Tons of flakey debris in loop

 

Mick, the original owner of Mayhems, sold the brand not too long back. Hard to say if the new owners might have screwed something up.

 

 

Edited June 7, 2022 by iamjanco

[Sir Beregond]

11 minutes ago, iamjanco said:

 

That's a real shame after all that work--sorry to see that 

 

Here's some info about ModWater that's a couple of years old now, but may still be relevant: ModMyMods.com premix Fluids is made from Mayhems concentrate

 

Also see:  Tons of flakey debris in loop

 

Mick, the original owner of Mayhems, sold the brand not too long back. Hard to say if the new owners might have screwed something up.

 

 

Yeah, very familiar with that post. I knew MMM was based off XT-1 going into it. However, I believe MMM is actually made in-house and not by Mayhems. My understanding was that Mick showed MMM how to make it. Bottle says made in the USA and not the UK.

 

I just ordered a couple of bottles of clear XT-1 off PPCs this morning, so will see how they look.

 

When I get a chance later today, going to take some additional pictures and email MMM to see what they say.

Edited June 7, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[iamjanco]

1 minute ago, Sir Beregond said:

I just ordered a couple of bottles of clear XT-1 off PPCs this morning, so will see how they look.

 

Yeah, just that after I posted previously. Hope it works out for you.

[Sir Beregond]

13 minutes ago, iamjanco said:

 

Yeah, just that after I posted previously. Hope it works out for you.

Me too. I am thinking probably just a bad patch in all honesty. I'm sure it happens from time to time, but definitely disappointing.

 

Will see what the actual Mayhems stuff looks like when it gets here.