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Show Your Car and Car Discussion Thread


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Premium Platinum
2.2k 1,916
3 hours ago, Andrew said:

Mine doesn't have one either, even after leaving it sitting for 10 years.

 

...try a new car with its information overload 🤔. Never mind the 8 configs of the driver display, here (spoiler) are 6 out of 12 center screen options (before sub menus). No wonder we '''need''' autonomous driving aids 😉 because folks are too busy flipping through menus looking for an index for warning lights instead of looking at the road ahead. On the plus side, the software is based on BSD...

 

Spoiler

X3_panels_u.thumb.jpg.027795e3fdb1fc928e017e195bcbfbd2.jpg

 

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What is with a lot of newer model cars literally puting even climate control in a touchscreen menu.

 

Terrible trend

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15 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

What is with a lot of newer model cars literally puting even climate control in a touchscreen menu.

 

Terrible trend

 

...fortunately, my new PHEV has redundant analog switches and knobs for heat/climate and also sound system - but to reset trip odometer, I have to dive into the computer sub-menus 😞  ...great power and fuel consumption, though - and I like that the electric motor is integrated into the transmission; the 'feel' is the same as with my previous non-hybrid beemers.  

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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

...fortunately, my new PHEV has redundant analog switches and knobs for heat/climate and also sound system - but to reset trip odometer, I have to dive into the computer sub-menus 😞  ...great power and fuel consumption, though - and I like that the electric motor is integrated into the transmission; the 'feel' is the same as with my previous non-hybrid beemers.  

Don't know if I've mentioned this before but one of my projects was a 2005 Honda Civic Hybrid that I modded out pretty good. Returned me ~55mpg lifetime average with many trips closer to 70mpg. Found out it got better fuel economy the harder I drove it, and so I used to tear around town like I stole the thing. Was a blast to drive too. In the Honda hybrids they use a pancake electric motor bolted to the flywheel so if the car is moving the gas engine is running, the electric motor is just used as a torque adder.

 

Bought the car for $3200, modded it out & drove the crap out of it for a couple years, then sold it later for $3500. Only had to fuel up once every couple weeks and I was running food deliveries daily for my job at the time.

 

96B77A34-5A2D-4FB3-93EE-072ABB963B72-2691-000000C9492B9356_zps93a644da.thumb.jpg.34bea78ae4d9ce6abd38bcb5a1645b2b.jpg

 

IMG_0735_zps33f3d84c.thumb.jpg.a2d2536154d97ac0e6237b60b03fee44.jpg

 

Years later I ended up having a ~2018 or so Toyota Prius as a company car and absolutely hated it. Drove nothing at all like my little lightweight tossable civic. I get why anybody that has driven a prius hates hybrids, it's just that not all of them are terrible like that. Just most of them. Heh.

 

 

Edit: I pulled the HV pack and refurbished it myself. Replaced the one bad stick with a junk yard pullout stick. Made up a DIY grid charger so my car was technically a plug-in hybrid.

 

null_zps562e0604.thumb.jpg.66342a5b4b157d75a1eb067f08409268.jpg

 

null_zpsdadc657e.thumb.jpg.9797deb67cde650233ea6cc3e0ec7f56.jpg

 

IMG_0730_zpsb51f83b4.thumb.jpg.1f4a251cb72e73b44e5f991c09e16785.jpg

Edited by speed_demon
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Posted (edited)

Soo... @speed_demon

 

Remember how I just told you on.. that other overclocking site (that shall not be named)) how this has been the most reliable car I've owned?   Yea... driving home from the pet store today (girlfriend wanted a new fish..) the car went into limp mode. 

 

No CEL, engine revs fine in park / neutral... no sputtering... just no accelerating past 2500rpm or so, even if WOT.   Found the metal battery tie down loose and potentially hitting the negative terminal (bounced around a bit) so I'm really hoping nothing got zapped...

 

Also over the past few days I've had an intermittent low voltage light pop on... 

 

Sigh.   All the forums I've read lead to potentially dirty MAF sensors, VVEL issues, oil gasket issue (2012 and newer models should be fixed for that known issue)... etc.  At 150k miles this is the only time in about 4 years aside from a failed alternator that this car has given me any trouble so I suppose I can't complain.

Edited by SoloCamo
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2 minutes ago, SoloCamo said:

Soo... @speed_demon

 

Remember how I just told you on.. that other overclocking site...) how this has been the most reliable car I've owned?   Yea... driving home from the pet store (girlfriend wanted a new fish..) the car went into limp mode. 

 

No CEL, engine revs fine in park / neutral... no sputtering... just no accelerating past 2500rpm or so, even if WOT.   Found the metal battery tie down loose and potentially hitting the negative terminal (bounced around a bit) so I'm really hoping notning got zapped...

 

Also over the past few days I've had an intermittent low voltage light pop on... 

 

Sigh. 

Some days it just feels like it's not your day. On the lexus I came outside this morning to find a flat tire.

 

Hopefully you can pinpoint the issue without too much headache. Sounds a bit like it might be an alternator on the way out.

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, speed_demon said:

Some days it just feels like it's not your day. On the lexus I came outside this morning to find a flat tire.

 

Hopefully you can pinpoint the issue without too much headache. Sounds a bit like it might be an alternator on the way out.

 

My luck certainly turned around thankfully (sorry for your flat though, I seem to always get one within 5,000 miles of new tires being installed).  The electrical issues I'm having probably are the alternator (low voltage issues have been an annoyance for me) but the actual issue causing limp mode turned out to be the brake light switch or so I thought.... kind of.

 

So before leaving the parking lot of the pet store I thought my brake lights were on, but my eyes have been extremely light sensitive lately and my GF thought they were off so I didn't think much of it...  after scrounging the net for answers on the sudden limp mode somebody mentioned the brake light switch registering brakes as on will force an acceleration limp mode as a safety precaution but it will not throw a CEL.

 

Went to the local dealer and bought a new OEM switch for $68 after tax (autozone wanted $57 for an aftermarket) went to install it and then realized the little rubber grommet that depresses the brake switch just deteriorated over time in the Florida heat.   That part is not typically carried so I modified a push clip that you would typically find on a fender liner in it's place and used some gorilla tape to ensure it doesn't fall out.  Issue fixed and confirmed with a WOT pull from a standstill.

 

TLDR - Long story short I can't believe a piece of rubber caused a limp mode.  Infiniti reliability redeemed (please don't spite me car gods).

 

1 hour ago, speed_demon said:

Forgive my double post but I'm excited I don't get new tools too often these days.

 

Got a new floor jack for $99 on sale at HF.

 

IMG_20240608_145157_1.thumb.png.70cf356575abec5f8082cabdab0ffe69.png

 

IMG_20240608_162813.thumb.png.90d3b4bdfe2787c2715737b304cb0938.png

 

And with the old ones 😄

 

IMG_20240608_162818.thumb.png.ee26061c71dfb8abf85a0c73e40f43c7.png

 

I have an older version of the same low profile floor jack and I absolutely love it.  You got a great deal considering 2024 pricing... I got the lowest price for one of those and it was $75 but I'm talking what feels like ages ago now (probably 6-7 years ago now?) so nice score on that one at $99.

Edited by SoloCamo
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1 minute ago, SoloCamo said:

a piece of rubber caused a limp mode.

 

laugh-giggle.gif

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Posted (edited)
19 minutes ago, The Pook said:

 

laugh-giggle.gif

 

 

Me after reading it again but deciding to post anyways..

 

image.jpeg.5ebcacc12328f451eb2ddb2da886f278.jpeg

Edited by SoloCamo
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3 hours ago, speed_demon said:

Forgive my double post but I'm excited I don't get new tools too often these days.

 

Got a new floor jack for $99 on sale at HF.

 

IMG_20240608_145157_1.thumb.png.70cf356575abec5f8082cabdab0ffe69.png

 

IMG_20240608_162813.thumb.png.90d3b4bdfe2787c2715737b304cb0938.png

 

And with the old ones 😄

 

IMG_20240608_162818.thumb.png.ee26061c71dfb8abf85a0c73e40f43c7.png

  

You are all set...now you can get that Rolls Royce Spectre ! 3 tons is (just) enough to lift a Rolls Royce Spectre completely off the ground... but put a few more napkins and a box of champagne in the trunk and the weight goes over 3000 kg 🤭

 

RR_Spectre_npk.thumb.jpg.7d1d914b144f3c120425048a7c9fccd7.jpg

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3 hours ago, SoloCamo said:

the little rubber grommet that depresses the brake switch just deteriorated over time in the Florida heat.   That part is not typically carried so I modified a push clip that you would typically find on a fender liner in it's place and used some gorilla tape to ensure it doesn't fall out. 

 

I had that same thing happen with the clutch safety switch on the miata. I temporarily stole one of the push clips that hold the carpet behind the seats down so I could drive it to work. I later came back and just removed the switch entirely. Couple of spade connectors and 2" of wire later and I no longer need to press the clutch to start the car 😂 

 

 51bX3yJfETL._AC_SL1024_.jpg

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he sold it to me

 

image.png.54de5aa4d144e000ffa6078b19385a47.png

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I have acquired some roundbois

 

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Pilot Sport are always a solid option 

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An update on the recent X3 PHEV addition....just over 3K km on the odometer now since getting it new mid-May. Properly warming the engine up and using mostly the gas option for one way of a roundtrip while going back the other way completely on electric power works very well, also re. milage (> 43 mpg / US). I also switch to electric when in stop-and-go traffic on certain stretches but mostly divide their workload into the aforementioned trip segments...much calmer and less wear on the engine, starter and such, IMO. Most of the driver aids are turned off, and I do like to have the touchscreen for various things but augmented by real 'analog' volume buttons for the sound system (the same for climate controls)

 

It is a bit strange but welcome when on 'electric only' to feel the gear changes as the electric motor is integrated into the transmission. Switching it to xtraboost (gas and electric power combining) is a fun thing to do on a curve mountain road 😁 Even without the electric boost, the turbo-4 is very torquey

 

x3_tant1_mod_u77.thumb.jpg.66da30d10d0191f2bdacdc91231474b0.jpg

 

 

 

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I have acquired an belts (plural) and an oil filter (singular)

 

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I updated my build log with like 12 months of content. Money pit car has had a lot of changes.

Here it is:

Spoiler

  

1 minute ago, Alex said:

  Couldn't edit them, so just reposting it here with better hosted images:

 

==##==

 

Over a year since my last post, and a lot has been done... I just haven't updated this page 😄

QZPDtXh.jpeg

So because I am rather particular about making things exactly how I want them I have a lot of small things I've done in the past year to improve my S2000. There's still so much more to do, partly because its a 20 year old car but also partly because what I want to do with this car is slowly changing over time. Right now I am focusing on trying to solve any potential future issues, and over-building it to last my lifetime. So getting ahead of big ticket items before they become even bigger right down to replacing literal bolts because I don't like the look of the slight corrosion on it.

I also am rather particular about keeping a record of these things, so here's what's been done to my S2000 in the past 12 months:


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Just before putting my car away, I got a stubby antenna - at first I was a bit apprehensive about changing something away from OEM but after putting it on I realised how much better it looks. Ideally I'd have no antenna there... but I am not going to go through with that effort, so this is better than nothing.

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I tried out a titanium counter-sunk knob, it's alright but I just find it's too low and too heavy. I feel like I am one of the few that prefer a lighter shift knob because I feel that it can translate the 'feeling' of the gearbox much better. The S2000 gearbox, like many Honda gearboxes, is excellent, precise and feels like it's made out of glass. It will let you know when it's not up to temp, or when you aren't shifting correctly all by becoming more difficult to engage gears. With a weighted knob, I find that feeling is harder to gauge.

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I applied some PPF to the headlights to slow down them cracking, but I'm going to find a more permanent replacement for them. They're not OEM, and bother me a bit.

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Over the winter I purchased some more parts,  several different Spoon braces (gotta find some places to put more Spoon parts on the car!), a new Koyorad, and tons of small, miscellaneous replacement OEM parts. I also planned on putting another bucket seat into the car - so I cleared out the passenger seat in preparation of housing these parts and to make the install easier.

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107385km before it goes into hibernation...

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Radiator arrived! And added it to the growing list of replacement parts gather in the car...

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New Recaro Pole Position seat fitted;

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I’m aware the passenger is too upright and forward, I fixed this recently after sitting in it while my friend drove

 



Next was something I've wanted to replace for awhile, but being rather picky there was only one exhaust I had in mind: Fujitsubo Legalis R. Basically OEM+ with no drone, it should be perfect.

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Time to fit stuff up! Exhaust, radiator and bracing:

 

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After bleeding the radiator I let it sit overnight to see if I'd have any slow leaks (it was winter after all - and I couldn't really drive it). Turns out I did...
 

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I found the culprit; a combination of an aging hose, and clamp. Secured it with a worm clamp from Home Depot and we seem to be good to go!
 

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Spring rolling around, time for the first real test drive. Was a bit nervous as I had changed so much all at once, usually not a great idea. Off we go then!

Oh...

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Well, damn, my rear brakes cooked themselves after around 30km or so. They got so hot they popped the centre cap off... I spent a good 15-20 minutes searching but wasn't able to retrieve it 😞

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Sadly, it also seemed like my hodge-bodge solution didn't hold and I got drips of hot coolant all inside the engine bay and splash guard. Later turned out I didn't tighten it enough and the hose wasn't on properly, fixing both of those resolved this from happening again.

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First thing's first, I had to replace the rear calipers as they were seized. Got this done by my mechanic as I didn't have the parts and wanted to make sure it's done right. Parked near another banana car:

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New calipers on, and painted black to blend in a bit. One day I'll get a BBK to replace them with floating rotors... but that day is not today.

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In the mean-time, some of the more dress-up-like parts I ordered arrived. An LHT battery bracket, brake brace (actually does good for firmer braking), and titanium dress-up bolts. OCD, but I love their finish.

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During this time I also got all the mounts and bushings replaced. So engine, trans, diff mounts. LCA, UCA, etc. It wasn't cheap, but it totally transformed the way the car feels, and it feels so much more rigid now. I went with OEM+ stiffened rubber for all of it.

Don't have pics of them all, but here's the diff mounts:

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Also went to the odd S2000 meet here or there around May-June:

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One of the numerous time's I washed my car, cleaned the engine bay as well to try get rid of any of the residue coolant splatters in there:

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I used a fabric ceramic coating on the roof as well:

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Next, I did a rather nice QoL mod. I installed the SOS hood dampers, I was a bit hesitant at first but after doing it - I really enjoy not having to prop up the hood when working on the car. Makes things just a little easier.

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And now on to the present, end of July 2024. I found something rather annoying... the previous owner had clearly poorly repaired chipped paint on the boot lid. They had put a wrap over exposed metal to cover chips... and it's started to rust. Just came back from a respray shop I trust in the area and it's going in on the 12th August to get the boot lid and spoiler resprayed, and potentially blended. Hopefully the rust isn't worse than it appears.

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Edited by Alex
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CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 - 7950X3D
MOTHERBOARD: Asus X670E Hero (pls EVGA make an AMD mobo)
RAM: G.Skill 64GB @ 6000Mhz
GPU: RTX 4090 Strix OC
SSD/NVME: 2x SN850X 4TB | 1x 970 Pro 0.5TB
MONITOR: Something OLED, 120hz and 42-48"
WC RADIATOR: MO-RA3 420 | HeatKiller 360S
WC CPU BLOCK: Heatkiller IV Pro
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AUDIO: Topping DX7 Pro
AUDIO 2: Sennheiser HD800S
AUDIO 3: Sennheiser HD650
AUDIO 4: Sennheiser HD 4.50 BTNC
AUDIO 5: Edifier RT1700BT
AUDIO 6: Custom XLR balanced cables
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CPU: F22C | 257hp 251nm
CPU COOLER: K&N FIPK Intake | AEM filter
GPU: Yokohama AD08R 255/40r17
CPU COOLER 2: Titan 7 R-10s 17x9.5+51
AUDIO: Alpine UTE73BT + Modifry DCI
MOTHERBOARD: Öhlins Road & Track DFV Coilovers
OPERATING SYSTEM: Hondata
CASE: Recaro Pole Position
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The s2k build is looking very clean. I applaud your taste and I think it's a very nice oem+ type build.

 

Unrelated but the front driver side brake is dragging on the lexus still. Jacked up the car and spun the wheel and the isolated the sound to the caliper itself just to rule out a bad CV joint or a defective new wheel bearing. Despite replacing everything in that wheel, from the bearing to the hub & whole knuckle, new rotor/pads & caliper, it still drags. Only thing I didn't replace was the rubber brake line. Figures that would be an issue. The hard line is seized onto the rubber line via the flare nut fittign so it's gonna need to get cut off and I'm gonna make that someone else's headache lol.

 

Pulled the Avalon back out of the garage the other day and aired up the tires. Need to get some adhesive remover and get rid of this bumper sticker residue from the PO. Car started right up and pulled out of the garage no problem so that's neat.

 

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Also dug my new toolbox out of storage. It ended up getting buried in the garage right after I got it and never even got to put my tools in it. Was free for helping a friend move too 😄

 

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I really need to work on my car projects. Thankfully it should start cooling off here pretty soon so I won't have any excuses. Nice to see the Avalon making a comeback! That's a nice toolbox. I like that it's not the usual red or black. I obviously want to get some of the hobo freight purple ones 😂

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CPU: 5900X + Optimus block
MOTHERBOARD: MSI X570 Ace
GPU: EVGA RTX 3090 FTW3 Ultra + Optimus block
RAM: 32GB Oloy Blade 3600CL14
SSD/NVME: 1TB SN750 Black
SSD/NVME 2: 1TB SN750 Black
SSD/NVME 3: 2TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus
CASE: LD PC-V7
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CPU: 7800X3D
MOTHERBOARD: B650E-I Strix
RAM: G.Skill Flare X5
GPU: Reference 6950 XT
CASE: InWin D-Frame Mini
WC RADIATOR: MO-RA3 with 4x180mm Silverstone fans
FAN CONTROLLER: Aquaero
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CPU: 12600KF
MOTHERBOARD: Z790I Strix
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo
GPU: RTX 2080
CASE: Sliger SM580
WC RESEVOIR: Phanteks R160C
WC RADIATOR: XSPC TX240 Ultrathin
FANS: Phanteks T30
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Premium Platinum
2.2k 1,916

...three months to the day now with the Beemer PHEV. The usable battery range keeps on going up...that said, the prices for gas are going down - PHEV = win-win ?

 

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CPU: CPU: ><.......7950X3D - Aorus X670E Master - 48GB DDR5 7200 (8000) TridentZ SK Hynix - Giga-G-OC/Galax RTX 4090 670W - LG 48 OLED - 4TB NVMEs >< .......5950X - Asus CH 8 Dark Hero - 32GB CL13 DDR4 4000 - AMD R 6900XT 500W - Philips BDM40 4K VA - 2TB NVME & 3TB SSDs >> - <<.......4.4 TR 2950X - MSI X399 Creation - 32 GB CL 14 3866 - Asus RTX 3090 Strix OC/KPin 520W and 2x RTX 2080 Ti Gigabyte XTR WF WB 380W - LG 55 IPS HDR - 1TB NVME & 4TB SSDs
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Threw a code for a dirty MAF sensor.  Not effecting drivability (for the most part) but I really need to clean those out and the throttle bodies (dual intakes on the VQ37VHR)

 

At 150k I really can't complain aside from the paint being absolute trash.  Still way too hot here in FL to really do any work outside.

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CPU: 11900k 5.4 single / 4.9 all core
MOTHERBOARD: Asus TUF Z590
RAM: 32gb G.Skill DDR4-4000 CL16 @ 3733 14-14-14-32 2T 1.49v
GPU: AMD 6900XT 2500/2100 1.115mV
CPU COOLER: Noctua NH-D15 Chromax
SOUNDCARD: Creative Sound Blaster Z
PSU: 750w Evga SuperNOVA p2
CASE: Fractal Torrent Black
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CPU: i9 10900
MOTHERBOARD: Asrock Steel Legend Z590
RAM: 64gb T-Force Vulcan Z 3600 c18
GPU: Asrock Challenger Arc A380
PSU: 850w NZXT Hale-82
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CPU: Ryzen 7 4700U
RAM: 32gb Kingston Fury c20 3200
GPU: Vega 7 APU
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