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Show Your Car and Car Discussion Thread


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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Andrew said:

I have inspected my brakes and the rear right caliper is seized. A new one is £335 and you pretty much have to do them in pairs.

They aren't too bad to refurbish yourself.

 

Here's a very good video highlighting a self rebuild on a caliper.

 

 

 

ALSO: Wanted to mention that many times what people believe is a stuck caliper is in reality a failed rubber brake hose where the hardline transitions to the caliper. Many times with age these lines end up deteriorating and functioning much like a one-way valve, allowing fluid pressure to build but not to release on the back side of the caliper piston.

Edited by speed_demon
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On 26/05/2024 at 02:53, speed_demon said:

They aren't too bad to refurbish yourself.

 

Here's a very good video highlighting a self rebuild on a caliper.

 

 

 

ALSO: Wanted to mention that many times what people believe is a stuck caliper is in reality a failed rubber brake hose where the hardline transitions to the caliper. Many times with age these lines end up deteriorating and functioning much like a one-way valve, allowing fluid pressure to build but not to release on the back side of the caliper piston.

The issue with refurbing, is they typically don't last long before they seize again.

 

I did find another official Alfa rear caliper made by the same manufacturer for £180 brand new, but then it won't be painted. Red is an extra £155 for some reason and the rear ones on my car are unpainted anyway.

 

I need new discs and pads front and rear anyway, so it's going to cost me £650 for new pads and discs + the two rear calipers + some DOT 4 + that vacuum pump thing to change the fluid on my own.

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Posted (edited)

And Rock Auto / UPS have either lost my package or the shipping just isn't updating (per support it's probably lost)... good times.  At least I got the rotors in faster than expected..  Picked up the box and complete forgot how heavy plain old blank rotors are, thankfully I didn't do a twist while lifting with your back move when picking them up from the ground.

Edited by SoloCamo

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On 27/05/2024 at 14:37, Andrew said:

The issue with refurbing, is they typically don't last long before they seize again.

 

I did find another official Alfa rear caliper made by the same manufacturer for £180 brand new, but then it won't be painted. Red is an extra £155 for some reason and the rear ones on my car are unpainted anyway.

 

I need new discs and pads front and rear anyway, so it's going to cost me £650 for new pads and discs + the two rear calipers + some DOT 4 + that vacuum pump thing to change the fluid on my own.

 

 

good friend of mine just learned the lesson of the V badge

 

his 2016 ATS-V needs front rotors (2 piece floating) O.E. is $577/ea

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14 hours ago, Cerberus said:

 

 

good friend of mine just learned the lesson of the V badge

 

his 2016 ATS-V needs front rotors (2 piece floating) O.E. is $577/ea

GM products are so modular I'd wager there is a lesser cost alternative solution he could swap to. Even the Z06 vette rotors aren't that pricey.

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3 hours ago, speed_demon said:

GM products are so modular I'd wager there is a lesser cost alternative solution he could swap to. Even the Z06 vette rotors aren't that pricey.

 

'''Cadillac tax'''

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image.thumb.png.8110a34418527015d00ff4dfcd2da811.png

Ford

 

Fix

It

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Daniel

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Welp used the electric pressure washer as I normally do to get bugs off the car and it's not decided to rip paint off the front bumper (there was a chip that's now decides to flake off and take other paint with it).  Good times.   $100, a case of beer and cost of materials paid for if anyone wants to paint my car lol.

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Posted (edited)

😡

 

GNooRGY.jpeg

 

pW4NH4L.jpeg

Edited by The Pook
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 Blame me ⤴️

 

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"D'Jango, the culprit, in plain view,

All my woes, he brings them true." - Edgar Allan Pook

 
 
 

 

 

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Posted (edited)
41 minutes ago, The Pook said:

😡

 

GNooRGY.jpeg

 

pW4NH4L.jpeg

 

 

 

hey, my mk4 only had p0420 and the code for the n75 valve, those arent needed where we're going

Edited by Cerberus
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(make sure your mask is N75 rated)

 

 

 

 

 

Untitled.thumb.png.2e7da6d70a6af08921a28f07b77ef135.png

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26 minutes ago, Cerberus said:

 

 

 

hey, my mk4 only had p0420

 

of all the CELs that's probably the best 

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Posted (edited)

I have a check engine light on as well, but its intermittent.

 

P0172 - System Too Rich Bank 1

 

Sounds like that could be a multitude of things causing that one so this will be fun: https://mazdamanuals.com.au/wsm-secure/WSM/D9G6-1A-21B_Ver17/esicont/srvc/html/id0102h9934300.html

 

Hope its just a MAF or O2 sensor.

Edited by Sir Beregond

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Posted (edited)

My 2013 Hyundai Accent I bought in 2014 had a CEL for about 3 years until 2019.... when that dash light burned out.   

 

  

12 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

I have a check engine light on as well, but its intermittent.

 

P0172 - System Too Rich Bank 1

 

Sounds like that could be a multitude of things causing that one so this will be fun: https://mazdamanuals.com.au/wsm-secure/WSM/D9G6-1A-21B_Ver17/esicont/srvc/html/id0102h9934300.html

 

Hope its just a MAF or O2 sensor.

 

Better than it being lean I suppose.  That said, I'd normally suggest a fuel injector cleaner but a lot of modern motors don't play nice with it.  

Edited by SoloCamo

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Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, SoloCamo said:

My 2013 Hyundai Accent I bought in 2014 had a CEL for about 3 years until 2019.... when that dash light burned out.   

 

  

 

Better than it being lean I suppose.  That said, I'd normally suggest a fuel injector cleaner but a lot of modern motors don't play nice with it.  

I already ran a bottle through. Direct Injection though so not sure it does much of anything anyway. Also usually try to use Top Tier gas.

 

I did notice the stronger gas smell, so something definitely off.

Edited by Sir Beregond

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Posted (edited)
25 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

I already ran a bottle through. Direct Injection though so not sure it does much of anything anyway. Also usually try to use Top Tier gas.

 

I did notice the stronger gas smell, so something definitely off.

 

Only difference with DI is that it bypasses the valves getting cleaned but the injectors should still benefit.  Hopefully like you said it's just a bad MAF (can you clean yours?).  With direct injection it's good to get carbon clean up done too if you haven't - look into BG44K - a lot of dealers offer it assuming you are still under warranty.  My GF's 2021 Miata with the Skyactive 2.0 definitely benefited from it and she doesn't even have 50k miles on it.

Edited by SoloCamo

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1 hour ago, SoloCamo said:

 

Only difference with DI is that it bypasses the valves getting cleaned but the injectors should still benefit.  Hopefully like you said it's just a bad MAF (can you clean yours?).  With direct injection it's good to get carbon clean up done too if you haven't - look into BG44K - a lot of dealers offer it assuming you are still under warranty.  My GF's 2021 Miata with the Skyactive 2.0 definitely benefited from it and she doesn't even have 50k miles on it.

Yeah the BG 44k is what I ran through the gas tank. I am at 135k miles now so probably could use a carbon clean up.

 

Yep, MAF sensor can be removed pretty easily. May try cleaning it and see what happens before I go down the rabbit hole of replacing parts one by one.

 

Oh...how do you like the 2021 Miata? One of these years when I have "fun car" spending money, I would love to get an ND Miata. I really like the looks.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Sir Beregond said:

Yeah the BG 44k is what I ran through the gas tank. I am at 135k miles now so probably could use a carbon clean up.

 

Yep, MAF sensor can be removed pretty easily. May try cleaning it and see what happens before I go down the rabbit hole of replacing parts one by one.

 

Oh...how do you like the 2021 Miata? One of these years when I have "fun car" spending money, I would love to get an ND Miata. I really like the looks.

 

Yea, at that mileage a carbon cleanup will definitely help.  It helped every Direct Injection car I've driver or seen it done on.   Both Mazda's with the 2.0 (her prior Mazda 3 before she upgraded to the Miata) ran much smoother after.  My Accent the 1.6GDI also ran better after.

 

As far as the Miata goes, it's a big upgrade over old models as it actually can move out of it's own way now, at least the ND2 variant with 181hp.  0-60 in mid 5's or so and it handles like a go kart.  Downside is she bought an automatic but it's still a fun car.  Gas mileage is stellar too which is mostly down to it weighing 2300lbs.

Edited by SoloCamo
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1 hour ago, SoloCamo said:

it actually can move out of it's own way now

 

That would be a nice feature to have... 

 

but mine has one thing the ND lacks 

 

 

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GPU: EVGA RTX 3090 FTW3 Ultra + Optimus block
RAM: 32GB Oloy Blade 3600CL14
SSD/NVME: 1TB SN750 Black
SSD/NVME 2: 1TB SN750 Black
SSD/NVME 3: 2TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus
CASE: LD PC-V7
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CPU: 7800X3D
MOTHERBOARD: B650E-I Strix
RAM: G.Skill Flare X5
GPU: Reference 6950 XT
CASE: InWin D-Frame Mini
WC RADIATOR: MO-RA3 with 4x180mm Silverstone fans
FAN CONTROLLER: Aquaero
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CPU: 12600KF
MOTHERBOARD: Z790I Strix
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo
GPU: RTX 2080
CASE: Sliger SM580
WC RESEVOIR: Phanteks R160C
WC RADIATOR: XSPC TX240 Ultrathin
FANS: Phanteks T30
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Premium Platinum - Lifetime
1.1k 531
6 hours ago, speed_demon said:

The one thing this lexus doesn't have is a check engine light. 😱

Mine doesn't have one either, even after leaving it sitting for 10 years.

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CPU: i7 9570H
GPU: AMD 5300m
RAM: 16GB
SSD/NVME: 512GB
OPERATING SYSTEM: macOS Sonoma
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CPU: 5800X
GPU: RTX 2070
RAM: 32GB
SSD/NVME: 500GB 960 Evo
SSD/NVME 2: 1TB 860 Evo
SSD/NVME 3: 1TB 860 Evo
PSU: EVGA 650w Modular
OPERATING SYSTEM: Windows 11
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Premium Gold
662 1,269
Posted (edited)

hard to have a CEL if you've never driven it 

 

 boom roasted 

Edited by The Pook
  • Shocked 1
  • Hilarious 1

1337.69

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CPU: Intel i9 10900K @ 51/47 1.26v
MOTHERBOARD: Asus Z590 Maximus XIII Hero
RAM: G.Skill DDR4-4266 CL17 32GB @ 4300 15-16-16-35 2T 1.55v
GPU: Gigabyte Aorus Master RTX 3080 Ti
SSD/NVME: Team Group MP34 4TB NVMe + WD Blue 4TB SATA SSD
CPU COOLER: Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 + Noctua iPPC 3000
PSU: Super Flower Leadex Titanium 1000W
CASE: Fractal Design Meshify S2
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CPU: Intel i7 8700K @ 47/43 1.22v
MOTHERBOARD: Asrock Z390 Taichi
RAM: Corsair LPX DDR4-3000 CL16 64GB @ 3200 16-20-20-38 1T 1.35v
SSD/NVME: SN850 1TB + HP EX950 2TB + SX8200 2TB NVMe
HDD: 4x Seagate Exos X16 14TB
OPERATING SYSTEM: Windows Server 2022 Datacenter
OTHER: LSI Logic 9207-8i
NETWORK: Intel X540 10 GbE
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CPU: Ryzen 7 5825U
MOTHERBOARD: SFX14-42G-R607
RAM: 16GB LPDDR4-4266
SSD/NVME: SK Hynix P31 Gold 2TB M.2 NVME
SSD/NVME 2: Samsung PM991a 512GB M.2 NVME
GPU: NVIDIA RTX 3050 Ti 4GB 35W @ 55W
OPERATING SYSTEM: Windows 10 Enterprise LTSC 2021
OPERATING SYSTEM 2: Debian 12.5 KDE
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Premium Platinum - Lifetime
1.1k 531
4 minutes ago, The Pook said:

hard to have a CEL if you've never driven it 

 

 boom roasted 

Time to put a stop to this.

 

 

Spoiler

image.thumb.png.6aa568e2ea0ff0f831ec21fd4350a3e2.png

 

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CPU: i7 9570H
GPU: AMD 5300m
RAM: 16GB
SSD/NVME: 512GB
OPERATING SYSTEM: macOS Sonoma
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CPU: 5800X
GPU: RTX 2070
RAM: 32GB
SSD/NVME: 500GB 960 Evo
SSD/NVME 2: 1TB 860 Evo
SSD/NVME 3: 1TB 860 Evo
PSU: EVGA 650w Modular
OPERATING SYSTEM: Windows 11
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