Andrew

I'm surprised it fit on the runway given how wide it is. The wingspan of the A320 isn't much bigger than the DC3.

I'm not sure, but I wouldn't be surprised if there are mods like that. I know there is/was a mod for either the Cessna 152 or 172 that gave it 2x A320 engines. I tried the DC3 once when it first came out and immediately crashed it. Like not even 3 seconds of air time after takeoff and it nosedived into the runway. I don't know what I did wrong, if anything at all, there might have been a bug with the physics that has since been fixed. Earlier when I flew it, it was fine. Just more difficult than a modern plane which is expected.

Just tried to do a proper flight with the DC3 and it's surprisingly difficult to fly. Slow as well, took 43 minutes to get from San Diego to Los Angeles. IRL right now, the same trip is 2hrs 20mins with a car. If you go at night, you can probably drop that down to 1hr - 1hr 10 mins.

Given that Bing did this, this isn't really surprising at all.

I forgot this thread existed. Binotto has been let go by Ferrari. I'm looking forward to seeing how well they do in 2023. The first couple of races of 2022 went very well for Ferrari, then there were repeated mess ups, almost all from the team rather than drivers. The Ferrari seems to be a really good car, but the team sucked.

Yeah, last I heard the Aventador successor was supposed to be a turbo V8 hybrid. Turns out that wasn't true.

Lug nuts. I need 9 of them. I could either buy them for £5.99 each or a set of 20 for £24.99.

Just pricing out the things I need now + just bought lugnuts. I found some that weren't £5.99 each, so I bought them. I only need 9 but I found 20 for £24.99 so I bought those. Rotors and pads - EBC PDKF1098 + PDKR512 - £379.33 Brake hose - Goodridge SLX0401-4P - £95.98 Oil - 5L Mobil Super 1000 + 1L Mobil Super 1000 - £44.48 Oil filter - Can't find a Toyota/Denso one. - £?? Coolant - 5L Motul Auto Cool x3 - £80 Brake fluid - Motul DOT 5.1 500ml x6 - £43.80 Timing belt - Dayco timing belt - £43.99 Auxiliary belt - Dayco drive belt - £49.99 Wipers - Bosch Aerotwin - £25 So that's £762.57 not including oil filter or tools that I may need to buy. Other things to get it road legal assuming it passes the MOT first time without problems: New license plate - £15 Insurance - £??? MOT - £50 Tax - £295

I could, but it made no difference. I'm just not going to use DLSS tbh. Switching it on makes me go from 28-30fps to 32-34fps. It's not worth it when the glass cockpit of the planes I normally fly look like this.

Lamborghini Aventador 2 just dropped. This is all that was shown so far, but it's going to have an NA V12 with a hybrid drivetrain for 1050hp.

I'm trying with the Halo Pelican right now. Using DX11 (DX12 is unplayable for me) and DLSS, this is what the glass cockpit looks like in the various settings (minus auto): Ultra performance Performance Balanced (what the F-18 screenshot was) Quality DLAA Off The frame rate difference I'm getting between off and quality which is pretty much the same as DLAA, is only a 3fps increase. That extra 3fps isn't worth the blurry text. EDIT: While I'm in this plane/helicopter/thing, here's the interior view with the rear open where you can walk around while around downtown LA.

I'm surprised it's taken this long for it to be pointed out.

Banned for discord pings.

Yeah, I don't see Microsoft/Asobo dropping support any time soon. Especially considering Bing Maps and MSFS are kind of the same thing. I do think eventually we're going to get photogrammetry updates for all countries except North Korea as well as probably China and Russia as photogrammetry (at least with current tech) is only possible with lowish flying planes. Once we've managed to get it to work accurately enough with satellites, we'll get those in updates as well. The Halo Pelican is a pretty fun thing to fly around with. I like that you can open the rear door mid-flight then you can walk towards it while hovering. If you don't have VR, I'd strongly suggest you get it. Performance for me is pretty poor, but I do have an RTX 2070 which is quite a bit less powerful than both your 4090 and 3090. I can't do DLSS though, not with glass cockpits anyway. I don't know if this is just an issue with the 2000 series cards, but the information on the screens becomes a blurry mess with DLSS on. Here's DLSS on vs off

I can't recommend the PMDG 737 enough. It is very expensive and the learning curve is pretty steep, at least if you want a cold and dark start as well as setting it up to fly properly with autopilot. There is a pre-set "start" option in the in-plane settings that will let you fly it like normal, stock, MSFS 2020 plane. I do only have the 737-700 because it was the first to release and I didn't want to wait for the -800 that most airlines use. They do have the -600 available for $35 USD which I would recommend getting if you just want a 737 and don't care which version. Aside from some physics changes for obvious reasons, all of the systems in the -600, -700 and -800 are all the same. So if you can fly one, you can fly them all. There is also an upcoming -900ER coming on the 7th of Feb. I am really looking forward to their 777-300ER when that does finally come out. EDIT: The 737-700 can even go above the speed of sound briefly. Ignore the point at the start. This is mach 1.019, not 0.1019. It doesn't have the sonic boom effect. Turns out that is part of the plane audio, not world audio.

Too bad DLSS3 is only available on RTX 40xx cards.

lmao I didn't even see the GPU there the first time I saw that photo.

Have those ever worked? every one I've ever used were either at 100% no matter the charge, or 0%.

I haven't bought a car battery in a very long time and it turns out they all have witchcraft in them these days with the charge indicator window. It looks like this Green for good, red for needs charging, nothing for dead. It's not an LED either which I thought it was.

8 power I am honestly surprised it started like that.

IMG_3433.mov ngl I wasn't expecting this. I initially had some issues when I connected the battery. Mostly security related. The alarm (which unluckily for me but luckily for my neighbours is silent) would constantly go on and the immobilizer was active not letting me start it. Turns out, I had to lock the car using the key fob, then unlock it again with the key fob. Started up straight away, 0 issues as if it has been running this whole time and the last time I started it was yesterday. Not even a warning light except for the brakes but I'll get onto that in a bit. I let it run for a bit to see if anything bad would happen and it didn't. I didn't even have to use the fire extinguisher I bought. I did also very slowly drive it backwards and forwards for a couple of metres to see if there are any gearbox issues, and again. No issues, like I just drove it yesterday. The brakes are a bit of an issue The brake pad sensor warning light is on, which I'm not sure exactly what's causing that. The brake pads still have more than enough chonk on them. The brake pedal is really spongy and goes straight to the floor which is not a good thing. I'm hoping it's just because the fluid is 10+ years old and is mostly water now. That's going to be an easy fix and something I had to do anyway. I do still need to buy new pads + rotors just because I don't trust these to be safe, let alone pass an MOT. @Artikbot did buy a Toyota Supra that has been sitting for a very long time and he said he had the same issue as me with the brake pedal, even after changing fluid. He did say the issue with his was the slave cylinder was stuck, it just needed to be taken out and cleaned and that if that doesn't fix it, there are rebuild kits you can buy for £10. Given that my car is effectively a Toyota and they were built during the same era, this is very good news for my wallet. Not so much good news for me though, removing and cleaning/rebuilding the slave cylinder is a PITA, so I'm hoping new fluid will fix the issue. So now, the potential repair list has basically been cut in half, all that remains (to get it safe to drive) is: New brake rotors New brake pads New brake hose (rubber, not metal) All fluids flushed and replaced 9 lugnuts Requirements to get it road legal (potentially, they might find something wrong that I missed): New front license plate Insurance MOT Tax Misc repairs/replacements: Repair/replace AC compressor (needed this when I bought the car) New AC gas HVAC screen replacement New headunit so I can have Apple Carplay Ironically in me suddenly speed running getting it fixed is because someone reported my car to the government, even though it's on private property. They came around to inspect it and said it was a fire hazard where I parked it. The reasoning behind this is because "you don't legally have a driveway because there is no drop curb so the car is a fire hazard". I don't understand this logic either and I'm not going to attempt to fight this legally. That's going to cost far more than just fixing it. I have until April to get it off my property when they come around to inspect it again, otherwise it will be taken from me. Because I've now put some petrol in it and started it, it is now more of a fire hazard than it has ever been in the 28 years it has existed.

What? A tech company creating artificial scarcity on hardware to increase the price of said hardware? That is insane and definitely hasn't happened before with hard drives in 2011 that made hard drives suddenly significantly more expensive than they should have been for several years.

I've done another thing!

Yes. The top one on the list is going to get a new icon to differentiate it and archived (all channels closed for replies, but you'll still be able to view the messages) as there's quite a bit of useful information in there.