Mr. Fox

Yes it is. I keep waiting for him to PM me with a price for it, but I'm thinking maybe I shouldn't hold my breath on it. I think just about anything he uploads a photo of is something amazing. Craftsmanship of his caliber is very rare these days. And, that steampunk motif is pretty sweet.

They are totally unnecessary. However, I have one for the first time ever and I really like having it. I am a data junkie though. It doesn't make it run any faster, but it is always nice to have useless information. If nothing else, it provides visual confirmation of what I already know. It is more useful than the chassis lighting and serves a similar aesthetic purpose. I like it even better now that I changed the orientation from vertical to horizontal. Awesome. Glad you got it sorted, bro. Looks good. That is a good flow rate.

I add a couple of these to my systems. They do a nice job and can be easily cleaned and reassembled. At least easily cleaned in my case because I use soft tubing and QDC fittings. I install the filters next to a QDC fitting with a ball valve on the inlet side, so that makes it convenient and a no-mess exercise. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FNYS9YH

That is coming together nicely, bro. Congrats on the build.

Yeah, it sucks to have to drain the loop to open it up and start the process over again due to simple human error--been there, done that, more often than I would like to admit--but, that would be better than having a defective part and having to deal with an RMA mess right now.

It may only measure flow with coolant flowing one direction. I think some of them have a removable insert that can be removed and flipped 180° if coolant needs to flow in the opposite direction.

Pick a number: 4 in, 10.16 cm or 101.6 mm. It's not how big numbers are as much as how you use them.

It is better to measure in inches rather than centimeters. But, measuring in centimeters gives you a bigger number to work with.

Maybe the best approach for the 24-pin would be to use an extension and shorten the wires to be only as long as the visible portion and then neatly bundle the original 24-pin cable out of sight. You could also shorten the original 24-pin and bundle all of the wires into a round bundle and use a large sleeve to cover the round bundle of 24 wires so that you are not trying to hide a long cable mess.

If you are referring to Supercool Computer, both I and @iamjancohad the same experience. I created a Facebook account, which is against my religion LOL, and messaged them there. I also sent emails and created an account with that weird messaging app they use and getting the response was like pulling teeth. To say that their customer service is horrible would be an understatement. But both of us received the product. It took almost a month. It is very straightforward with the delid tool. I own and used every version of the delid tools they sell, including the one for X299 processors. They all work well. I did send them a 5950X for the delid service since they did not offer the tool for sale, only the service. I got back the same CPU I sent and the service was timely. They did not send back the stock IHS and I had to email them to ask them to send it back to me. They assumed I did not want it since they installed the copper IHS. They have very poor customer service in terms of being unresponsive to emails, which makes people feel very uncomfortable. I've exchanged emails with the owner a number of times. He is friendly enough, but doesn't give a whole lot of attention to unread emails. It seems like this is a trend among people in the fabrication business because the people at OptimusPC behave exactly the same. They probably are extremely busy and need to hire someone whose only job is customer service and support. Probably cannot afford to pay a salary for someone dedicated to that. I totally get that. I think all three companies do this as a side hustle because they want to support enthusiasts, but it's not their full-time occupation. OptimusPC and RockitCool are both owned by people that run a much larger custom fabrication and machine work business.

I paid $249 for mine on NewEgg on March 15 of this year. It looks like it is available from a marketplace scalper for more than twice that much now, and the one shipped by NewEgg is no longer available. Thermaltake Level 20 XT E-ATX Extreme LCS Capable Split Level Modular Gaming Cube Case CA-1L1-00F1WN-00, Black - Newegg.com WWW.NEWEGG.COM Buy Thermaltake Level 20 XT E-ATX Extreme LCS Capable Split Level Modular Gaming Cube Case CA-1L1-00F1WN-00, Black with fast shipping and top-rated customer service. Once you know, you Newegg! For that totally absurd kind of money, I would go with something even larger, like the W200... Thermaltake Core W200 CA-1F5-00F1WN-00 Black Computer Case - Newegg.com WWW.NEWEGG.COM Buy Thermaltake Core W200 CA-1F5-00F1WN-00 Black SPCC ATX Full Tower Computer Case with fast shipping and top-rated customer service. Once you know, you Newegg!

I really miss using my PrimoChill Praxis Wetbench (flat) but the dust here in Phoenix is brutal and there is an endless supply of it. This Level 20 XT, like your Core x9, it a dream to work with. It is like an open bench in terms of easy access with panels that allow me to close it off to cut down on the dust, which is the only reason I bought it to begin with. Now that I have it, I have identified a lot of advantages to it. There are lots of places to attach things that I did not have with the open bench. I loathe working inside of a cramped case, and this is the exact opposite of cramped. More like caverous.

Thanks for the screenshots. I do not see anything that I would recommend changing per se. If everything is working well, don't mess with the settings. Your setup looks great. It appears we are using the same case (TT Level 20 XT). I really like it. I love how huge it is. I have to position it parallel with the length of my desk because it is too large to fit in the normal perpendicular position. I am curious about what looks like a mod to your side panel on the far side of the photo. Mine tempered glass side panels. Did you replace the glass with a metal screen of some sort? Did you paint yours white? I would love to see more photos and details on the chassis.

Yeah, that is a really great CPU. Congrats. Please post a BIOS screenshot like the one I posted above that shows the voltage settings below "DigitAll Power" in the menu. When you have time. No rush.

Just a follow up. Further testing of these same settings allows me to lower my DRAM voltage to 1.470V with no errors, even running more a aggressive and longer-running memory test. Read/write/copy and latency are excellent. Those are really good results. Nice work! Question: What values do you have set in the BIOS for your CPU voltage? Is that 55x on all P-cores? Can you post a screenshot like the one above?

One of the nice things about today's latest and greatest PC components is that you can buy them tomorrow from a unicorn-chaser at a fraction of the original price. Smart shoppers will let someone else take the hit on depreciation. Conceptually this applies equally to a lot of other things, including motor vehicles. I have purchased the following items currently in use secondhand: - 10900K (known good bin) - Sopercool Direct Die Block on my 10900K - EVGA Z490 Dark - 12900K (known good bin) - T-Force Delta DDR5-6200 - EVGA RTX 2080 Ti FTW3 - EKWB Quantum Velocity on my FTW3 - EVGA Supernova 1600 P2 PSU Buying secondhand CPUs allows you to avoid anything that is of average or poor bin quality (unless the seller is dishonest).

You're welcome Brother. I hope so, too. That kind of nonsense is really frustrating. Let us know if it did. Have a wonderful weekend.

I just disable Windows Updates completely on all of my systems and manually install anything I deem important (which is rare) from a Windows Catalog download. WinAero Tweaker is useful for A LOT of tweaks and I use it for a ton of tweaks. The Windows Update Show Hide troubleshooting package form KB article 3073930 was created exactly for this purpose. Simply download the file and double click to launch the troubleshooter. Macro$lop no longer makes this available because it gives muppets more power than they want them to have. You can grab it here: https://m.majorgeeks.com/files/details/microsoft_show_or_hide_updates_troubleshooter.html

It took a LONG while and it was a real pain in the butt, but I finally got 6800 CL30 dialed in as a daily driver memory overclock. Trial and error always sucks. Some interesting discoveries in the process... maybe at least some part of this will be useful to someone else and help cut down on their frustration. Setting tRFC and tRFCPB too tight improves read speed, but degrades write, copy and latency and the best overall performance and latency are achieved leaving both of them set to Auto and letting the BIOS train the values. Likewise, tRCD and tRP set too tight produced errors. Moving from 38 to 39 reduced errors, moving to 40 eliminated them. CPU VDDQ and CPU VDD2 and DRAM VPP work best if left on Auto. Setting them manually to the values programmed by the BIOS when set on Auto causes inconsistency in stability. Setting tWR and tWR_MR too tight causes inconsistent results, while leaving them on Auto and letting the BIOS train the values had no effect on performance and eliminated errors in testing. Setting tWTR and tWTR_L at 14 and 28, respectively, displays as 8 and 19 using Dragon Ball. Asus MemTweakIt doesn't even read those two values and it does not accurately read the tWR value. Using either software tool can result in erroneous interpretation due to the BIOS values not being displayed accurately for a few settings. Most of the values displayed by Dragon Ball match the BIOS settings.

Awesome. Thank you. I do not post a lot of content, but I hope you enjoy what I have.

Yes going from stock soldered IHS to running this bare die should be a substantial improvement as mentioned. I was disappointed that it did not bring the improvement I was hoping for to the same extent that the same product did for my 10900K. I am also constantly fussing with my hardware and never leave anything alone for more than a few weeks at a time. The way it's designed makes it kind of a hassle for someone that doesn't just put things together and leave it alone. Your experience with it could be as amazing as it was demonstrated to be in Frame Chaser's video as well as Igor's Lab. We hope you post your results here and tell us your experience. We'd love to see and hear about that. It took a long time to receive it. They didn't ship it for like 2 weeks and did not provide any status updates. No explanation was given for why there was a two-week lag between the day the order was placed and when it was shipped. If I had to guess there was probably no stock on hand and he was manufacturing them after orders were placed. I would have been fine with that had it been disclosed up front or immediately explained by email. I was kind of pissed off at the lack of attention to customer service though, to be honest. Maybe that's not important in their culture, but it damned sure is here, LOL. I am currently running a Thermalright contact frame with a stock IHS that has been lapped with liquid metal applied on both sides of it.

I haven't felt like benching much lately, but today I fired up the chiller and beat a few of my best scores and racked up a few points on HWBOT. It is not as much fun as it used to be, but today I remembered why I have enjoyed it so much for so long. 3DMark 11 Physics: https://hwbot.org/submission/5007313_ 3DMark 11 Performance: https://hwbot.org/submission/5007318_ 3DMark 11 Extreme: https://hwbot.org/submission/5007319_ HOF Rankings (for some reason my best Physics result isn't listed, only my second-best is)