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1995 Lexus LS400 fix log


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I forgot to update this. My mechanic managed to find one for a much more reasonable price than £1100 and was in stock, and wasn't one of those eBay specials.

 

I also had the timing belt changed, ended up costing double what was expected because my mechanic said that every single nut and bolt was basically welded on from the rust. So that's one less thing that I have to worry about.

 

I also bought some Pilot Sport 5s for it. Immediately after that, the power steering failed because of a leak, so I got that fixed. Now it won't start, sometimes. I'm not using it for anything serious right now in case it switch it off while somewhere and then it won't switch on again. If it doesn't start while in my driveway, it doesn't matter because it's already home.

 

I've looked up the issues that could cause this. It's either something in the fuel system, or popped ECU caps. Fuel pump sounds fine, so maybe not that? It has cut out a couple of times while driving (slowing down and the car needs to shift from 2nd to 1st). This is apparently a telltale sign of the ECU being on the way out, so if this is the issue, I'm going to have to find someone who can put new caps on it. New ECUs are impossible to find and used ones are going to have the same issue in the not too distant future if they don't already have that issue.

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  On 23/01/2025 at 02:21, Andrew said:

I forgot to update this. My mechanic managed to find one for a much more reasonable price than £1100 and was in stock, and wasn't one of those eBay specials.

 

I also had the timing belt changed, ended up costing double what was expected because my mechanic said that every single nut and bolt was basically welded on from the rust. So that's one less thing that I have to worry about.

 

I also bought some Pilot Sport 5s for it. Immediately after that, the power steering failed because of a leak, so I got that fixed. Now it won't start, sometimes. I'm not using it for anything serious right now in case it switch it off while somewhere and then it won't switch on again. If it doesn't start while in my driveway, it doesn't matter because it's already home.

 

I've looked up the issues that could cause this. It's either something in the fuel system, or popped ECU caps. Fuel pump sounds fine, so maybe not that? It has cut out a couple of times while driving (slowing down and the car needs to shift from 2nd to 1st). This is apparently a telltale sign of the ECU being on the way out, so if this is the issue, I'm going to have to find someone who can put new caps on it. New ECUs are impossible to find and used ones are going to have the same issue in the not too distant future if they don't already have that issue.

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Popped caps aren't that big of a deal though.  I'd say send it over here and I'd solder some new ones in for you, but even just the shipping costs (and time without it) really makes it not worthwhile considering you're over seas from me.  You should have zero issues finding somebody locally that can recap that, but tbh you probably could too with a $20 iron and a couple spare old crap motherboards laying around to practice on (capacitors are capacitors, doesn't matter what you're practicing on).

Ironically I had the same problem on one of the ECU components on my old Prelude.  Wasn't the ECU directly but some small computer relay thing that operated the ignition (very VERY similar issue you're describing).  I think it was called the "main relay", but it wasn't actually a relay, it had caps and an IC in there too.

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  On 23/01/2025 at 03:14, pio said:

Popped caps aren't that big of a deal though.  I'd say send it over here and I'd solder some new ones in for you, but even just the shipping costs (and time without it) really makes it not worthwhile considering you're over seas from me.  You should have zero issues finding somebody locally that can recap that, but tbh you probably could too with a $20 iron and a couple spare old crap motherboards laying around to practice on (capacitors are capacitors, doesn't matter what you're practicing on).

Ironically I had the same problem on one of the ECU components on my old Prelude.  Wasn't the ECU directly but some small computer relay thing that operated the ignition (very VERY similar issue you're describing).  I think it was called the "main relay", but it wasn't actually a relay, it had caps and an IC in there too.

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You're underestimating how much I don't want to do anything anymore lol I'm not even doing an oil change on my daily driver despite how quick and easy it is to do.

 

But yeah, ignition relay is another thing that could be the issue. I think I can still get those brand new. So if it is that, it's going to make things much easier. I'm going to book it in for next month to have some diagnosis done as well as having the suspension adjusted properly. Right now, the suspension adjustment (including toe both front and rear) was done by my by eye so it's completely wrong but somehow still driving straight. It also has the opposite of a Carolina Squat going on. The rear is about an inch higher than the front. I also don't want to yeet through these tyres. I abused the ones that came on the wheels, but these Pilot Sport 5s were expensive. £640 for the set, they're EV specific tyres too. I do know that some EV specific tyres have less tread than normal tyres because of efficiency or something. No idea if these do, but if they do, I don't want to wear through already "worn" tyres quicker than necessary.

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Further update: I'm like 99% sure it's the ECU that's the problem here. Just went on a drive and all of the warning lights would flicker on and off. This, along with all of the other issues mentioned, means it's almost certainly the ECU.

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  On 24/01/2025 at 09:38, Andrew said:

Further update: I'm like 99% sure it's the ECU that's the problem here. Just went on a drive and all of the warning lights would flicker on and off. This, along with all of the other issues mentioned, means it's almost certainly the ECU.

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battery?

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  On 27/01/2025 at 16:11, Alex said:

battery?

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Battery is "new" (bought 2023 but not in the car until the day it went in for an MOT, fully charged it when it ran out on the day I discovered the alternator was completely dead) and seemingly charged. Alternator is also new.

 

I say the battery was seemingly charged because it started up just fine and ran perfectly fine for a little while. It was only after 5-6 minutes that all of the warning lights would flicker on and off. This is something that does happen when the ECU is dying apparently. It's going in next week for diagnosis anyway to find out what the actual problem is.

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  On 27/01/2025 at 16:43, Andrew said:

Battery is "new" (bought 2023 but not in the car until the day it went in for an MOT, fully charged it when it ran out on the day I discovered the alternator was completely dead) and seemingly charged. Alternator is also new.

 

I say the battery was seemingly charged because it started up just fine and ran perfectly fine for a little while. It was only after 5-6 minutes that all of the warning lights would flicker on and off. This is something that does happen when the ECU is dying apparently. It's going in next week for diagnosis anyway to find out what the actual problem is.

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Had a grounding issue on a car once after sunking it in water.

 

The tcm would go crazy and the power steering until i made a tcm ground.

Car are weird sometime.

 

Wish you luck 🙂

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his car basically lives in a swamp, so that sounds plausible

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