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1st Loop in over a decade - HELP?


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Alright, so a few of you guys have sent me some stuff for water loops (ty ty ty to those who helped btw).  I'm SUPER excited to get this going........

 

Question though.......I need a few parts, can anybody help me deal shop?

I need:
2x tubing Y splitters
Tubing (lots, going for an external rad)
Fill and drain ports

I want budget, I want to do this like a junkyard car build, find stuff for cheap or MacGyver something.  I also don't want it to be "wrong" either (use the wrong tubing and it corrodes or something stupid).

Also - I have car antifreeze to use.  Is that okay?

Another question too - How do I clean this all up before I install it?  And is car antifreeze okay to use in a PC loop?

HELP??????  🤣

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Most premix PC coolants use glycol, so yes car antifreeze is fine, but you definitely want to dilute it with distilled water.

 

If you want to clean it properly, get a Mayhems Blitz Pro kit (contains part 1 and part 2 cleaners). Part 1 is used specifically to clean the radiators. Part 2 is then used for the whole loop. Just follow the directions.

 

If you want to just cheap man clean everything then hook it all up to a running faucet and let it flush overnight. Then flush with distilled water.

 

Tubing? Maybe go to your local Ace Hardware or Home Depot or similar and look for industrial tubing of the EPDM/norprene style.

 

Y splitters? Get those anywhere, don't really need anything special there. Question will be what style you want? Do you want the splitters to have its own barbs that the tubing fits over and you just zip tie it secure? Do you want something that regular G1/4 compression fittings screw into that the tubing can attach to?

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Posted (edited)
8 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Most premix PC coolants use glycol, so yes car antifreeze is fine, but you definitely want to dilute it with distilled water.

 

If you want to clean it properly, get a Mayhems Blitz Pro kit (contains part 1 and part 2 cleaners). Part 1 is used specifically to clean the radiators. Part 2 is then used for the whole loop. Just follow the directions.

 

If you want to just cheap man clean everything then hook it all up to a running faucet and let it flush overnight. Then flush with distilled water.

 

Tubing? Maybe go to your local Ace Hardware or Home Depot or similar and look for industrial tubing of the EPDM/norprene style.

 

Y splitters? Get those anywhere, don't really need anything special there. Question will be what style you want? Do you want the splitters to have its own barbs that the tubing fits over and you just zip tie it secure? Do you want something that regular G1/4 compression fittings screw into that the tubing can attach to?


I planned on dilutting the antifreeze with water, yes.  I have "pure" antifreeze, non mixed.  So obviously I need to mix it 50/50 for my car (bought 2 gallons, for car + PC combined).  The mixture for the PC however, I'm unsure of.  I don't think I'd need a 50/50 mix in a PC, maybe 25/75?

I'm cool with "man cleaning".  Is there a cheap attachment somewhere for the sink faucet?  Budget is definitely king here, this is all going in an old, unloved FX build.

Y splitters - I'd prefer to use proper fittings so everything looks similar.  I've got "EK Quantum Torque" fittings right now, but only enough for the main loop (no drain / fill ports).  So I'd need to pickup 6 more fittings I believe for the two Y splits?  I think that was what I came up with.

Ace sells appropriate tubing?  Ace is literally in my backyard..........

Edited by pio

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Posted (edited)
29 minutes ago, pio said:


I planned on dilutting the antifreeze with water, yes.  I have "pure" antifreeze, non mixed.  So obviously I need to mix it 50/50 for my car (bought 2 gallons, for car + PC combined).  The mixture for the PC however, I'm unsure of.  I don't think I'd need a 50/50 mix in a PC, maybe 25/75?

I'm cool with "man cleaning".  Is there a cheap attachment somewhere for the sink faucet?  Budget is definitely king here, this is all going in an old, unloved FX build.

Y splitters - I'd prefer to use proper fittings so everything looks similar.  I've got "EK Quantum Torque" fittings right now, but only enough for the main loop (no drain / fill ports).  So I'd need to pickup 6 more fittings I believe for the two Y splits?  I think that was what I came up with.

Ace sells appropriate tubing?  Ace is literally in my backyard..........

Tyson A-60-G is literally just industrial tubing. I imagine you might be able to find a more generic, less expensive EPDM style from a local hardware store, so it's worth a look. And such a tubing would be easily maintainable. I don't know if Ace actually does, I'm just suggesting you take a look though if the goal is "cheap" and "lots".

 

Yeah I've never used car antifreeze and distilled water, so don't really know the "right" ratio. I imagine a 25/75 or even 80/20 would be fine. You don't want too much glycol in there to slow the flow rate.

 

Faucet attachment? Probably, nothing I know about unfortunately.

 

Y splitters can either be an actual Y-splitter or something as generic as a block with three G1/4 opening such as this:

MODMYMODS.COM

Alphacools's fittings go new ways in looks, quality of manufacturing, colours and choice. The inner diameter of these fittings truly deserves the „high flow“ attribute! The first three colours, Chrome, Deep Black...

 

 

Or you can do more traditional actual Y-fittings such as this:

MODMYMODS.COM

Alphacools's fittings go new ways in looks, quality of manufacturing, colours and choice. The inner diameter of these fittings truly deserves the „high flow“ attribute! The first three colours, Chrome, Deep Black...
MODMYMODS.COM

Alphacools's fittings go new ways in looks, quality of manufacturing, colours and choice. The inner diameter of these fittings truly deserves the „high flow“ attribute! The first three colours, Chrome, Deep Black...

 

With either style, yes you'd need 6 compression fittings.

 

Edited by Sir Beregond
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Folding@Home Staff - Team Lead
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I'm curious as to why use y-splitters?

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Different automotive antifreezes have different inhibitors for specific components in a vehicle. Some of them are too harsh for different tubing types. For the context of the build (budget, FX build) I don't think it matters all that much. 80/20 (4:1 ratio) is probably a safe min. 50/50 (1:1 ratio) is max. Goal of using antifreeze in a PC is to prevent mixed metals from going into galvanic corrosion mode. Unless you're running this loop outside, sub-ambient temps, you'll be fine with the min. Just cross check what tubing you're using first IMO. 

 

I've had a bad experience with an ethylene glycol (primary additive is most automotive coolants) that wrecked my clear XSPC tubing. Went green, nasty etc. No overall net impact to performance and blocks were by and large, fine. No major clogs. More context can be found here if you want to go down the rabbit hole: https://www.overclock.net/threads/what-is-plasticizer.1380775/  Really wont matter if you use EPDM tubing or something like Primochill Advance LRT tubing. Which is why most enthusiasts who water cool just fast forward to EPDM. Low maintenance. 

 

Honestly, for this build, I wouldn't overthink it.

 

Cleaning it: Many guides out there. IMO doesn't really matter how you clean it, just do it well, especially radiators, and then finish with distilled to minimize any microbials sitting in the loop. The more acidic the cleaning solution, the more harsh it can be on the finish of a block, like nickel plated. I usually just do hot tap water and dish soap. Some rads will be dirtier than others. https://www.titanrig.com/blog/post/how-to-flush-a-pc-radiator#:~:text=Plug the radiator's ports and,will be ready for service. If you want to go more in-depth, there is Mayhem Blitz. Never tried it but I'm not sure how many water cooling threads ive responded to in my history, but most of the time Sir Beregond has responded before me, and he's recommended Blitz in the past many, many times. I trust the guy, even if I've never met him XD so I'm sure its good alternative if you want to spend money. 

 

 

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Tyson A-60-G is literally just industrial tubing. I imagine you might be able to find a more generic, less expensive EPDM style from a local hardware store, so it's worth a look. And such a tubing would be easily maintainable. I don't know if Ace actually does, I'm just suggesting you take a look though if the goal is "cheap" and "lots".

 

Yeah I've never used car antifreeze and distilled water, so don't really know the "right" ratio. I imagine a 25/75 or even 80/20 would be fine. You don't want too much glycol in there to slow the flow rate.

 

Faucet attachment? Probably, nothing I know about unfortunately.

 

Y splitters can either be an actual Y-splitter or something as generic as a block with three G1/4 opening such as this:

MODMYMODS.COM

Alphacools's fittings go new ways in looks, quality of manufacturing, colours and choice. The inner diameter of these fittings truly deserves the „high flow“ attribute! The first three colours, Chrome, Deep Black...

 

 

Or you can do more traditional actual Y-fittings such as this:

MODMYMODS.COM

Alphacools's fittings go new ways in looks, quality of manufacturing, colours and choice. The inner diameter of these fittings truly deserves the „high flow“ attribute! The first three colours, Chrome, Deep Black...
MODMYMODS.COM

Alphacools's fittings go new ways in looks, quality of manufacturing, colours and choice. The inner diameter of these fittings truly deserves the „high flow“ attribute! The first three colours, Chrome, Deep Black...

 

With either style, yes you'd need 6 compression fittings.

 

You know what, I forgot all about mod my mods.  I just put everything I need in the cart, and I'm at like $90.  Very not bad.  I'll re-measure what I have here, make sure I"m picking up the right stuff as far as sizes and looks go so it all matches.  Those AlphaCool small 3 way "generic block with G1/4 openings" I think match something I have, so I'll pick those up (and I like that they're smaller and cheaper).

 

9 hours ago, damric said:

I'm curious as to why use y-splitters?

 

Because I'm putting in a fill and drain port in the loop.  Due to space, I only have 2 ports available on the res, also I cannot GET to the res fill port.  So was going to Y it right behind the res between it and CPU, and run a line up to the top for a fill port, keep the water level higher than the res, and it should fill up.  Same thing for drain port, figured if I was going to that extreme to fill it, might as well plumb in a drain port.

 

 

8 hours ago, Slaughtahouse said:

Different automotive antifreezes have different inhibitors for specific components in a vehicle. Some of them are too harsh for different tubing types. For the context of the build (budget, FX build) I don't think it matters all that much. 80/20 (4:1 ratio) is probably a safe min. 50/50 (1:1 ratio) is max. Goal of using antifreeze in a PC is to prevent mixed metals from going into galvanic corrosion mode. Unless you're running this loop outside, sub-ambient temps, you'll be fine with the min. Just cross check what tubing you're using first IMO. 

 

I've had a bad experience with an ethylene glycol (primary additive is most automotive coolants) that wrecked my clear XSPC tubing. Went green, nasty etc. No overall net impact to performance and blocks were by and large, fine. No major clogs. More context can be found here if you want to go down the rabbit hole: https://www.overclock.net/threads/what-is-plasticizer.1380775/  Really wont matter if you use EPDM tubing or something like Primochill Advance LRT tubing. Which is why most enthusiasts who water cool just fast forward to EPDM. Low maintenance. 

 

Honestly, for this build, I wouldn't overthink it.

 

Cleaning it: Many guides out there. IMO doesn't really matter how you clean it, just do it well, especially radiators, and then finish with distilled to minimize any microbials sitting in the loop. The more acidic the cleaning solution, the more harsh it can be on the finish of a block, like nickel plated. I usually just do hot tap water and dish soap. Some rads will be dirtier than others. https://www.titanrig.com/blog/post/how-to-flush-a-pc-radiator#:~:text=Plug the radiator's ports and,will be ready for service. If you want to go more in-depth, there is Mayhem Blitz. Never tried it but I'm not sure how many water cooling threads ive responded to in my history, but most of the time Sir Beregond has responded before me, and he's recommended Blitz in the past many, many times. I trust the guy, even if I've never met him XD so I'm sure its good alternative if you want to spend money. 

 

 


I think I'm sold on just running the sink through it, I'll have to assemble a hose with a funnel and G1/4 fitting at the end anyway to go into the fill port.  So why not just screw that into the rad, and double check it! 🙂  

Noted about EDPM.  Will make sure that's what I order.  I need to order some RC race car parts too......  🤣

Edited by pio
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15 hours ago, Slaughtahouse said:

Mayhem Blitz. Never tried it but I'm not sure how many water cooling threads ive responded to in my history, but most of the time Sir Beregond has responded before me, and he's recommended Blitz in the past many, many times. I trust the guy, even if I've never met him XD so I'm sure its good alternative if you want to spend money. 

 

I have met him, and while he is a pretty shady character, he's right about Blitz. I've used it many times and also recommended it many times 😂

 

Blitz just takes the guesswork out. You can do the same thing with a bit of vinegar (diluted with distilled)... Flush, then use a bit of baking soda with distilled to bring the PH balance back in line. Usually aiming for around 6-8. Blitz kit comes with basic PH test strips and a chart to determine the value. I'm sure you can get the same thing in the pool aisle at Ace hardware.

 

@pio take one of those fittings to the hardware store and see what size tubing they fit. I had dumped all of those fittings from the boxes into my fittings bin and just grabbed 6 of the same size so IDK if what's printed on the box is the actual size of them. They should be either 10/16mm (3/8" ID, 5/8" OD) or 12/16mm (7/16" ID, 5/8" OD). 

 

In hindsight, to make this all a bit more easy to figure out and budget friendly for expanding the loop, probably should have just went old school with barbs and clamps. I doubt Ace will have EPDM tubing in an appropriate size. Likely it will just be some clear PVC tubing. All of which will get cloudy over time, but it's cheap so you just swap it out every once in a while. 

 

 

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Right so perhaps instead of a y-splitter, maybe a couple of those cheap plastic flow indicators that have 3 ports. They sell them on ebay, ali express, ect. There's even ones with coolant temp readout and they are all cheap asf.

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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Fluxmaven said:

 

I have met him, and while he is a pretty shady character, he's right about Blitz. I've used it many times and also recommended it many times 😂

 

Blitz just takes the guesswork out. You can do the same thing with a bit of vinegar (diluted with distilled)... Flush, then use a bit of baking soda with distilled to bring the PH balance back in line. Usually aiming for around 6-8. Blitz kit comes with basic PH test strips and a chart to determine the value. I'm sure you can get the same thing in the pool aisle at Ace hardware.

 

@pio take one of those fittings to the hardware store and see what size tubing they fit. I had dumped all of those fittings from the boxes into my fittings bin and just grabbed 6 of the same size so IDK if what's printed on the box is the actual size of them. They should be either 10/16mm (3/8" ID, 5/8" OD) or 12/16mm (7/16" ID, 5/8" OD). 

 

In hindsight, to make this all a bit more easy to figure out and budget friendly for expanding the loop, probably should have just went old school with barbs and clamps. I doubt Ace will have EPDM tubing in an appropriate size. Likely it will just be some clear PVC tubing. All of which will get cloudy over time, but it's cheap so you just swap it out every once in a while. 

 

 

I have a set of calipers here, I can just measure the fittings I have on hand. 🙂  I'm PRETTY SURE they're 3/8 ID / 5/8 OD, but I'll double check the measurement before ordering.  Just going to order 9x more fittings that look close enough to these ones, that'll fit the 2x Y splitters (3x each), and the fill and drain ports (last one is for the funnel fill tube).  I have EXACTLY enough fittings as is to fit everything else (CPU block, rad, res).  This is just simply because I'm trying to go above and beyond on this loop with the fill / drain ports that I need more.

I think because of where these parts all came from, just a simple hot water sink cleaning should be sufficient, and then rinse with distilled.  So I'm not AS worried about that anymore.  Also, as I said last post, I need to fabricate a hose with a fitting on the end, and a funnel on the other anyway for filling it.  I'll just hook the kitchen sink up with that.

Edited by pio
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Posted (edited)

edit - dp - please remove

 

Edited by pio

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CPU: AMD Athlon 1100MHz
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Where I'm sitting at right now about to pull the trigger:

image.thumb.png.d1e13ee77ba1cb763e5ee13e870b7d24.png

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CPU: Ryzen 7900x
GPU: Sapphire Pulse RX 7900XTX
PSU: Cooler Master 850w Platinum
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MOTHERBOARD: Gigabyte B650 Aorus AX
SSD/NVME: Solidigm P41 Plus 2TB Gen4 NVME
RAM: G.Skill Flare X DDR5-6000
CASE: HAF700 Berserker
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CPU: AMD Opteron 180 @ 3.0GHz
MOTHERBOARD: Asus A8N SLI
RAM: 4x1GB Corsair XMS DDR400 @ 2.5-3-3-6
PSU: eVGA 600BQ
GPU: Sapphire HD5870
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CPU: AMD Athlon 1100MHz
MOTHERBOARD: ECS K7S5A
RAM: 2x256MB Corsair XMS DDR400 @ 133MHz / CAS2
PSU: Antec 350w
GPU: ATI Radeon 9800 PRO
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4 hours ago, Avacado said:

@pio

 

Don't forget to flush that rad multiple times. I promise that it will clog your blocks if you don't clean it right. 

Well in that case, I'm going to suggest you do it properly with a Blitz kit @pio.

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CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
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MOTHERBOARD: ASUS Crosshair VIII Dark Hero
SSD/NVME: x2 Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2TB
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CPU: E8400, i5-650, i7-870, i7-960, i5-2400, i7-4790k, i9-10900k, i3-13100, i9-13900ks
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RAM: Corsair 32GB DDR3-2400 | Oloy Blade 16GB DDR4-3600 | Crucial 16GB DDR5-5600
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P7P55 WS SC | ASUS Z97 Deluxe | EVGA Z490 Dark | EVGA Z790 Dark Kingpin
SSD/NVME: Samsung 870 Evo 1TB | Inland 1TB Gen 4
PSU: BeQuiet Straight Power 12 1500W
CASE: Cooler Master MasterFrame 700 - bench mode
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CPU: M1 Pro
RAM: 32GB
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14 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Well in that case, I'm going to suggest you do it properly with a Blitz kit @pio.

So hooking it up with an intake hose with a funnel, directly off the tap isn't gonna work?  

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CPU: Ryzen 7900x
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MOTHERBOARD: Gigabyte B650 Aorus AX
SSD/NVME: Solidigm P41 Plus 2TB Gen4 NVME
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CASE: HAF700 Berserker
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CPU: AMD Opteron 180 @ 3.0GHz
MOTHERBOARD: Asus A8N SLI
RAM: 4x1GB Corsair XMS DDR400 @ 2.5-3-3-6
PSU: eVGA 600BQ
GPU: Sapphire HD5870
SOUNDCARD: Asus Xonar DG
OPTICAL: DVDRW with Lightscribe
SSD/NVME: 64GB HP 2.5" SSD
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CPU: AMD Athlon 1100MHz
MOTHERBOARD: ECS K7S5A
RAM: 2x256MB Corsair XMS DDR400 @ 133MHz / CAS2
PSU: Antec 350w
GPU: ATI Radeon 9800 PRO
SOUNDCARD: Creative Live! 5.1
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Folding@Home Staff - Team Lead
1,044

this little guy looks fun for $10

 

image.thumb.jpeg.b3825693686a97bd6adaea3ef581a572.jpeg

 

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CPU: Ryzen 9 5950x
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RAM: 4x8GB Ballistix
GPU: RX 6900 XT
PSU: LEADEX V Platinum 1KW
CASE: QUBE 500
SSD/NVME: T-FORCE CARDEA A440 PRO
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Cheap

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CPU: Ryzen 5 5500
MOTHERBOARD: X470 TAICHI
RAM: Crucial Ballistix MAX 2x8GB
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4 hours ago, pio said:

So hooking it up with an intake hose with a funnel, directly off the tap isn't gonna work?  

I mean should hopefully be fine, in fact I think @Avacadohas a video on here he called "poor mans radiator flushing" or something where he hooked it up to a sink. 

 

Just the way he commented on the rad was thinking maybe a Blitz cleaning was in order.

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SSD/NVME: x2 Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2TB
SSD/NVME 2: Crucial MX500 1TB
PSU: Corsair RM1000x
MONITOR: LG 42" C4 OLED
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CPU: E8400, i5-650, i7-870, i7-960, i5-2400, i7-4790k, i9-10900k, i3-13100, i9-13900ks
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RAM: Corsair 32GB DDR3-2400 | Oloy Blade 16GB DDR4-3600 | Crucial 16GB DDR5-5600
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P7P55 WS SC | ASUS Z97 Deluxe | EVGA Z490 Dark | EVGA Z790 Dark Kingpin
SSD/NVME: Samsung 870 Evo 1TB | Inland 1TB Gen 4
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CASE: Cooler Master MasterFrame 700 - bench mode
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Premium Platinum - Lifetime
781

Interesting thread. Subbed. Good luck pio 👍

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CPU: Ryzen 9 7900X3D
MOTHERBOARD: Asus ROG Strix X670E-E Gaming Wifi
RAM: G.skill TridentZ5 7600MHz 36-45-45-45
GPU: MSI Gaming X Trio RTX 4090
MONITOR: Acer Ultrawide 3440x1440 144Hz HDR400 FreeSync Premium
SSD/NVME: Crucial T700 1TB PCIE 5 M.2
PSU: Superflower Leadex VII XG 1300w Gold
CPU COOLER: EK Nucleus AIO black edition 360mm
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CPU: i5-7600k 4.5GHz
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS ROG Strix Z270H Gaming
RAM: G.skill Flare X DDR4 3200 14-14-14
CASE: Silverstone Grandia series GD09
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GPU: GT 710
CPU COOLER: Vetroo Shadow Low-Profile CPU Cooler
MONITOR: Asus V239H 1080p 60Hz IPS
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PM'd 

 

just don't tell @Avacado what I said about him 

  • Agreed 2

1337.69

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CPU: Intel i9 10900K @ 51/47 1.26v
MOTHERBOARD: Asus Z590 Maximus XIII Hero
RAM: G.Skill DDR4-4266 CL17 32GB @ 4300 15-16-16-35 2T 1.55v
GPU: Gigabyte Aorus Master RTX 3080 Ti
SSD/NVME: Team Group MP34 4TB NVMe + WD Blue 4TB SATA SSD
CPU COOLER: Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 + Noctua iPPC 3000
PSU: Super Flower Leadex Titanium 1000W
CASE: Fractal Design Meshify S2
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420.42

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CPU: Intel i7 8700K @ 47/43 1.22v
MOTHERBOARD: Asrock Z390 Taichi
RAM: Corsair LPX DDR4-3000 CL16 64GB @ 3200 16-20-20-38 1T 1.35v
SSD/NVME: SN850 1TB + HP EX950 2TB + SX8200 2TB NVMe
HDD: 4x Seagate Exos X16 14TB
OPERATING SYSTEM: Windows Server 2022 Datacenter
OTHER: LSI Logic 9207-8i
NETWORK: Intel X540 10 GbE
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$600

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CPU: Ryzen 7 5825U
MOTHERBOARD: SFX14-42G-R607
RAM: 16GB LPDDR4-4266
SSD/NVME: SK Hynix P31 Gold 2TB M.2 NVME
SSD/NVME 2: Samsung PM991a 512GB M.2 NVME
GPU: NVIDIA RTX 3050 Ti 4GB 35W @ 55W
OPERATING SYSTEM: Windows 10 Enterprise LTSC 2021
OPERATING SYSTEM 2: Debian 12.5 KDE
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