Water Cooling Club

[Avacado]

18 hours ago, Minotaurtoo said:

oh that is soooo tempting... It'd be about a 7 hour drive for me...not that I'd mind visiting there, and I'd need to get a good case... this old rag has done it's duty... I realy appreciate that offer for sure. 

I haven't posted it anywhere yet, but I nearly chopped off my finger at work... it's okay, but I can't move it properly anymore and I have to see an ortho to see if they can fix the broken tendon... having to relearn how to type atm lol... but given my circumstances, I'd best stay close by home for now, just in case they call me in.... I'd share a pic of my finger, but I'm pretty sure no one wants to see stitches...

I want to see for sure. I'm actually working out of orthopeadics currently. Show it. I've got a Corsair crystal 570x missing a rear glass panel you could have for free. Or a few not in use open air chassis.

14 hours ago, PCSarge said:

ive got plenty of beer, i'm good company, and the challenge for you will be the H210i im already in the real question is where you're actually at. DM me

Asheville, NC. Anyone from the site is always welcome for a build fest in the dungeon. Especially since @Bastiaan_NL has yet to move in and take the couch. 

Edited September 2, 2021 by Avacado

[J7SC_Orion]

Reverse Gear selected !

 

...starting to pull this build apart which I had finished it about 2.5 years ago and which served me very well - even stayed on 3DM HoF for 1.5 years. The cooling system though (4x D5, 5x 360/60 rads) is now overkill for its next life as one part of 'Ravens' Nest'.  

 

While I'll keep the basic setup of mobo, CPU and GPUs, it will be a more reasonable 3x 360 rad setup with 2x D5s. The Space gained on the back is dedicated to a secondary mobo (pfSense). This system has a mix of soft tubing and solid copper tubing - not the easiest to mod after the fact, but doable as I left enough 'flex play' at critical junctions (I hope  )

 

 

 

[PCSarge]

On 02/09/2021 at 12:12, Avacado said:

I want to see for sure. I'm actually working out of orthopeadics currently. Show it. I've got a Corsair crystal 570x missing a rear glass panel you could have for free. Or a few not in use open air chassis.

Asheville, NC. Anyone from the site is always welcome for a build fest in the dungeon. Especially since @Bastiaan_NL has yet to move in and take the couch. 

 

i may have to make a trip down later in the year when it gets cold up here in canadia

[Soulpatch]

First water cooled rig since a custom Tandy3200 years ago (been custom building a VERY long time).  But here's my current liquid build.  Appreciate the comments/feedback.  Not much in the way of serious design/fabrication, but as I said, just getting back into liquids.  Thinking about the new 3m non conductive build, but it's still a bit too pricey at the moment. 

[mouacyk]

It would be nice to see another 700MHz or so on that 9900K. May be an Ampere or Radeon 6000 GPU too, but wishes... this rig deserves it.

Edited October 14, 2021 by mouacyk

[Soulpatch]

14 minutes ago, mouacyk said:

It would be nice to see another 700MHz or so on that 9900K. May be an Ampere or Radeon 6000 GPU too, but wishes... this rig deserves it.

Working on a new GPU, just too much happening in the real world at the moment.  That and the release of the new 3080/3090's was totally monkeyed up to the point where people should have gotten fired across the board.  But that's another story...

As for squeaking out a bit more on the CPU, the thought crossed my mind.  But currently I live in the south and the humidity here is brutal when it comes cooling, even using liquids.  So for now I cranked it up to 5mhz and stabilized the vdroop with enough range to help keep it cool.  There isn't anything I run that needs it set with almost nothing.  And the extra heat it produces isn't worth it.  But 100% agree that the video card would really kick the system right in the @ss lol

[J7SC_Orion]

@Bastiaan_NL , @BWG ...remember my Arctic P12 pwm pst value pack addiction problem ? Well, after mounting 42 of these, I only have a few 5-packs left for a dual mobo build project 

 

 

 

 

[Sir Beregond]

8 hours ago, Soulpatch said:

First water cooled rig since a custom Tandy3200 years ago (been custom building a VERY long time).  But here's my current liquid build.  Appreciate the comments/feedback.  Not much in the way of serious design/fabrication, but as I said, just getting back into liquids.  Thinking about the new 3m non conductive build, but it's still a bit too pricey at the moment. 

Lookin' sharp! Some days I wonder if I should regret not getting the XL.

[Soulpatch]

2 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Lookin' sharp! Some days I wonder if I should regret not getting the XL.

Mine isn't the XL either.  When the XL came out, they had the 011 on a huge discount, so opted for that one instead.  It's a good case, but has some major design flaws.  If you vent air out the back wall the MB is on, then you are recirculating heated air back into the system.  That's why I cut the side cover and had the exhaust ports made.  All ambient air is now dumped outside without any re-circulation due to the cover deflection.  Air takes the path of least resistance and I noticed after running some flow calculations that most of the vented air was deflected and recirculated back behind the motherboard.  Of course where the PSU and drives are banked.  You may want to take a look at that yourself considering where the res/240 rad bank is.  If you are pulling air into the case, you'll be drawing in most of the air from behind the motherboard.  If your pushing air out, same problem with preheated air.  Other than that, your layout looks like you have plenty of clean lines and room to run everything.  Considering you are running dual 240's you've definitely got plenty of extra space.  The XL would look really empty with your rig in it. 

[Sir Beregond]

12 hours ago, Soulpatch said:

Mine isn't the XL either.  When the XL came out, they had the 011 on a huge discount, so opted for that one instead.  It's a good case, but has some major design flaws.  If you vent air out the back wall the MB is on, then you are recirculating heated air back into the system.  That's why I cut the side cover and had the exhaust ports made.  All ambient air is now dumped outside without any re-circulation due to the cover deflection.  Air takes the path of least resistance and I noticed after running some flow calculations that most of the vented air was deflected and recirculated back behind the motherboard.  Of course where the PSU and drives are banked.  You may want to take a look at that yourself considering where the res/240 rad bank is.  If you are pulling air into the case, you'll be drawing in most of the air from behind the motherboard.  If your pushing air out, same problem with preheated air.  Other than that, your layout looks like you have plenty of clean lines and room to run everything.  Considering you are running dual 240's you've definitely got plenty of extra space.  The XL would look really empty with your rig in it. 

Hoping to get dual 360's in there with the rebuild, but unsure if that will work out or not without blocking the fill port on the res since I am not using a distro plate.

[Bastiaan_NL]

On 14/10/2021 at 19:21, Soulpatch said:

First water cooled rig since a custom Tandy3200 years ago (been custom building a VERY long time).  But here's my current liquid build.  Appreciate the comments/feedback.  Not much in the way of serious design/fabrication, but as I said, just getting back into liquids.  Thinking about the new 3m non conductive build, but it's still a bit too pricey at the moment. 

That's a sweet looking build!

 

17 hours ago, J7SC_Orion said:

@Bastiaan_NL , @BWG ...remember my Arctic P12 pwm pst value pack addiction problem ? Well, after mounting 42 of these, I only have a few 5-packs left for a dual mobo build project 

A few 5-packs left....

I've been running out of ML fans a few times now, so I have around 40 of those too at this moment..

 

[Soulpatch]

1 hour ago, Sir Beregond said:

Hoping to get dual 360's in there with the rebuild, but unsure if that will work out or not without blocking the fill port on the res since I am not using a distro plate.

You could do a 360 on the top and keep the 240.  By the looks of your build, you could easily punch a hole in the top of your case using a unibit.  Install a pass through (bulkhead fitting) and route your fill port so that a 360 rad wouldn't interfere.  Route it from the top of your res/pump, use a 90 to send it towards the back panel, then once it clears into that little compartment in the back...straight up to the bulkhead fitting.  Throw a pressure release on the top of it and you are done.  Here's an example of a fill port installed into my system.  It'd actually be located just above your rad, but you could easily move it back further if need.  Or if there's enough room (you can see where my rad is located), just run it straight up.  Part of the reason I opted for this case instead of another I was considering is the real estate.  The other side of building for so long is I've learned that something worth doing, is worth doing correctly.  Don't know about you, but if I half @ss it, then every time it's looked at part of me is seriously erked lol  Maybe it's the tech/engineer in me.   Orrrrr, just keep it super simple and get a bottom mount for your pump/res combo and mount it towards the front a little more. 

Edited October 15, 2021 by Soulpatch

[J7SC_Orion]

2 hours ago, Bastiaan_NL said:

That's a sweet looking build!

 

A few 5-packs left....

I've been running out of ML fans a few times now, so I have around 40 of those too at this moment..

 

 

...how do you control the ML fans ? I've got 9x ML 120s in another, older MSI system ? All other types of pwm fans plugged into the fan controller work as directed, but the MLs always are on full tilt, even on the same pwm signal  

[Bastiaan_NL]

40 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

...how do you control the ML fans ? I've got 9x ML 120s in another, older MSI system ? All other types of pwm fans plugged into the fan controller work as directed, but the MLs always are on full tilt, even on the same pwm signal  

That's weird, I have red PWM ML140's which work perfectly fine on a basic PWM hub/splitter (1 fan signal in, 1 sata in, 10x pwm out).

The RGB ML's have a separate PWM and RGB cable, I run those on the Commander Pro / RGB controllers. I hate iCue/Link, but after setting up a profile and saving it to the Commander I just uninstall the software

Edited October 15, 2021 by Bastiaan_NL

[J7SC_Orion]

1 minute ago, Bastiaan_NL said:

That's weird, I have red PWM ML140's which work perfectly fine on a basic PWM hub/splitter (1 fan signal in, 1 sata in, 10x pwm out).

The RGB ML's have a separate PWM and RGB cable, I run those on the Commander Pro / RGB controllers. I hate iQue/Link, but after setting up a profile and saving it to the Commander I just uninstall the software

     

Tx - mine aren't the RGB ML either, just the regular ones plugged into Commander FP /Sata / 10 hub with some Arctic P12s that work just fine on the signal - have been trying to avoid installing that iCue HAL spyware.

 

Solution might be to buy more Arctic P12 value packs ! 

 

FYI, stopped by a local outlet of a national computer chain...surprisingly, they had 5 (!) 3080 Ti on the shelf which just got there, including a FTW3 for EURO 1,400...we made a bet as to whether they'll last beyond tomorrow evening (in person shopping for that product only)

[Bastiaan_NL]

18 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

     

Tx - mine aren't the RGB ML either, just the regular ones plugged into Commander FP /Sata / 10 hub with some Arctic P12s that work just fine on the signal - have been trying to avoid installing that iCue HAL spyware.

 

Solution might be to buy more Arctic P12 value packs ! 

 

FYI, stopped by a local outlet of a national computer chain...surprisingly, they had 5 (!) 3080 Ti on the shelf which just got there, including a FTW3 for EURO 1,400...we made a bet as to whether they'll last beyond tomorrow evening (in person shopping for that product only)

I use these: 4-pin PWM Splitter and they do the job. I think I have 8 of those spread out over the house, even the M-ITX build has one. 
The Bloat/Spy/sh.tware is something that drives me crazy, and not only from Corsair but also all the other stuff. It either takes 2 weeks to load, or it crashes, can't save a profile to the hardware, uses my GPU while running (bad for F@H) and so on.

 

€1400 for a 3080Ti is a good deal compared for what they usually go for here. (cheapest = €1699)
The cheapest EVGA 3080Ti I could get from their store would be a little over €1300.

[J7SC_Orion]

1 hour ago, Bastiaan_NL said:

I use these: 4-pin PWM Splitter and they do the job. I think I have 8 of those spread out over the house, even the M-ITX build has one. 
The Bloat/Spy/sh.tware is something that drives me crazy, and not only from Corsair but also all the other stuff. It either takes 2 weeks to load, or it crashes, can't save a profile to the hardware, uses my GPU while running (bad for F@H) and so on.

 

€1400 for a 3080Ti is a good deal compared for what they usually go for here. (cheapest = €1699)
The cheapest EVGA 3080Ti I could get from their store would be a little over €1300.

 

...that €1400 for the 3080 Ti FTW3 included tax (like in EU), but no matter - all five 3080 Ti (FTW3 and other) have already been sold now (only took 3 hrs / weekday / working hours / personal pick-up only).

 

I got both my 3090 Strix and the 6900XT OC at that place for low MSRP and no pre-ordering; just have to hit the right time for a visit after the daily delivery from the warehouse to see what's what. These days though, 3090s still seem to be mostly MIA, at least the custom 3x8 pin I like. 

 

  

[ENTERPRISE]

On 14/10/2021 at 18:21, Soulpatch said:

First water cooled rig since a custom Tandy3200 years ago (been custom building a VERY long time).  But here's my current liquid build.  Appreciate the comments/feedback.  Not much in the way of serious design/fabrication, but as I said, just getting back into liquids.  Thinking about the new 3m non conductive build, but it's still a bit too pricey at the moment. 

Wow, sweet setup man. When I do my next build (not for a good while) I am looking to get a CaseLabs product (now they are returning) and doing another WC setup, but possibly going a little more over the top as CL cases allow for that extra crazy

[Avacado]

3 hours ago, ENTERPRISE said:

Wow, sweet setup man. When I do my next build (not for a good while) I am looking to get a CaseLabs product (now they are returning) and doing another WC setup, but possibly going a little more over the top as CL cases allow for that extra crazy

Should be easier to acquire as well, seeing as how they will be manufactured in Sweden.

[J7SC_Orion]

3 hours ago, Avacado said:

Should be easier to acquire as well, seeing as how they will be manufactured in Sweden.

 

Extra crazy = good crazy 

[ENTERPRISE]

5 hours ago, Avacado said:

Should be easier to acquire as well, seeing as how they will be manufactured in Sweden.

Yeah for sure. Them being state side before caused some issues for us on the other side of the pond.

[Bastiaan_NL]

2 hours ago, ENTERPRISE said:

Yeah for sure. Them being state side before caused some issues for us on the other side of the pond.

That's what I love about all those European water cooling manufacturers, they are on 'our' side of the water  

 

[J7SC_Orion]

10 minutes ago, Bastiaan_NL said:

That's what I love about all those European water cooling manufacturers, they are on 'our' side of the water  

 

   

...just so you know, the earth is round and there really is no 'side' to all that water 

[Bastiaan_NL]

So you mean my front radiator could actually be in the back of my system?

[J7SC_Orion]

2 minutes ago, Bastiaan_NL said:

So you mean my front radiator could actually be in the back of my system?

 

Yup....AND upside-down, too !