Fluxmaven

Good news is that my 4070 ti seems fine. I went ahead and fired all the 4000 series cards up last night. The 4060s have much more limited tuning. One is in linux so it's just doing its thing. The other in windows I can get down to 89w at just over 3mil... VS the 4070 ti I'm able to run at 128w and still do over 10mil. Now that the sun is really beating on the side of the house the temp in the office is already climbing. So I'll likely end up pausing everything and only running in the dark of the night.

We are just splitting hairs at this point, but Kaby lake desktop CPUs launched in 2017 which would have been B250 which were still locked down. They didn't stop until B560 which was Rocket Lake (11th gen).

It was Skylake (6th gen) and it was 2133 on B150. B250 moved the needle to 2400. B360 was 2666. B460 gave us 2666 for i5 and below and 2933 for i7 and above. During that entire time, Ryzen was here with higher core counts and support for faster memory. Early Ryzen's had a hard time running RAM higher than 3000, but at least it wasn't locked away.

Aside from all the rack mounted stuff, I do have windowed side panels on all my rigs and I keep them up on the desk. Partially because I like looking at them, and also because we have pets so I don't want them on the floor. So a decent looking board is a consideration for sure. I also want plenty of USB ports, M.2 slots, and a post code display so that immediately bumps you into a higher end board these days unfortunately. On simpler builds I will go with a cheaper board. Although it wasn't that long ago that you really got swindled on the lower end chipsets for basic features. It wasn't until H570 and B560 that you could enable XMP on Intel. Was always funny to see people a couple years back buying fancy RAM kits that were stuck running at 2133 because they didn't get a Z board. Or vice versa, people buying Z board with a locked CPU.

If you hang around on forums like OCN and ExtremeHW and wonder why people spend money on higher end components you might be hanging around the wrong forums lol. A e s t h e t i c s is a big reason I see people splurge a bit more than they probably should on components. The "white tax" and "pink tax" are very real things. I've helped plenty of gamer girls build PCs and you will absolutely pay a premium to make a cute PC to avoid the "gamer aesthetic". Even if you aren't trying to do a cute build, if you want something with IO port covers, beefy heatsinks, integrated RGB etc so it doesn't look like some poverty spec board, you'll pay a premium. There's obviously a point of diminishing returns. If you buy an MSI Godlike or an Asus ROG Maximus Extreme, you are 100% doing it to flex your massive epeen. That said, your biggest counter argument seems to be, money saved on the board is better spent on other components. Do you really see people out there buying top end boards and pairing them with budget components? Most of the people on here with higher end boards already have best in socket CPUs and high end GPUs. I'd agree that for your average joe that just ascended from consoles to PC, they probably don't need a nice board since they just want plug and play. They also don't need a bunch of IO because they are used to having none coming from a console. 10g networking is very relevant to anyone that has a NAS or any type of server they work off of. Higher end chipsets X670E like offer more PCIe lanes, PCI 5 support etc. One other factor is availability. When new a new platform launches, they start with the high end stuff and you don't see value options pop up until later. If you do SFF builds you especially get hit hard. AFAIK on AM5 every ITX board under $270 hit the market less than a year ago.

Many people tend to go way overboard on PSUs. I have a reference 6950 XT under a custom waterblock that I run on an AX760. I haven't had any issues with it. It's paired with a 7800X3D. I also briefly ran it on an SF600 with a 7900X and had a couple shutdowns until I put CPU in eco and did a mild undervolt and capped FPS on the GPU. The reason people recommend 1000w PSU for these cards is the transient power spikes. Higher quality PSUs do a better job of handling spikes without tripping OCP. The 650 BP will be a little iffy but you can try it and if you have issues try and shoehorn your 1000w into that system.

As for the case itself... Seems a bit of a letdown. The overall design sort of reminds me of a TJ07 but with the rad chamber on the top instead of the bottom. Problem being the case is too narrow so you end up completely choking the one side off with the PSU. If it wasn't a full glass side panel, you could offset that rad bracket towards the front of the case to get more clearance behind it. If they had a mixture of a mesh portion at the top and just did a glass panel over the components, you'd be back to something more functional (like the TJ07) and it would look sort of similar to some of the Lian Li cases.

Since its so much more inefficient for a system that is completely automated to handle the sale of tickets online they must add a service charge per ticket. You can avoid this by driving to the venue in person and paying some minimum wage employee at the ticket window for your tickets. The catch being that the ticket office isn't open on the weekends, or lunchtime, or after 4pm etc... Basically they just make up whatever BS they want and people will pay it.

Sir you only paid the overly expensive "convenience fee" to buy them digitally online. You forgot to also pay for the additional overly expensive insurance to give you the option to refund your already overly expensive ticket purchase. I just bought a pair of tickets to a show in November because If I don't and they sell out, the scalpers would be charging even more. Still $160 for a pair of tickets to a show and a big chunk of it is just fees. I didn't add the insurance so they aren't refundable either.

Since you are determined to move away from AM4, you are going to be spending a lot to upgrade. Even if you had kept the 7900X3D, you still need an AM5 board and DDR5 which ends up with you spending $500+ total for a single gen upgrade which rarely feel worth it. I own or have owned a 3900X, 5600X, 5900X, 7700X, 7800X3D, and 7900X. They were in different rigs so I didn't directly compare them all, but owned them concurrently. Chips a single gen apart never felt mind bogglingly faster. It is an enthusiast forum and we all like building PCs, but you asked if you should return and we shared our thoughts.

Aside from a newer BIOS update to support the CPU at all, you also need to update the chipset driver. As well as have Windows game mode and Xbox game bar enabled/installed. The 7900X3D is an asymmetric design with 2 different CCD's. One has the 3D V-Cache and runs a bit slower clock speed, and the other is the standard CCD that boosts up to the listed max boost speeds. The reason people tend to dislike the 7900X3D specifically, is that when it parks the non 3D CCD while playing a game, you effectively are gaming on a 6 core CPU. On a 7900X you can use all 12 cores across both CCD's simultaneously with a bit of a latency penalty for cross CCD traffic. By contrast, Your 5800X3D (and my 7800X3D) are 8 core single CCD chips that don't suffer from any weird thread parking/scheduling issues.

If it were me, I'd 100% return and wait on 9000 series. Y'all up in Canada seem to get shafted HARD with PC part prices though. So you might not actually get a 9700X for less than your 7900X3D. What resolution do you play at and what do you want to accomplish with upgrading? If you play mostly Esports twitch shooters and are targeting high FPS at lower resolution, then yes a CPU upgrade is the way to go. If you want to push a higher resolution with all the eye candy, I'd take the money you'd spend on moving to AM5 and get a better GPU. In the states, a decent AM5 setup costs about the same as a RX 7900 GRE.

I had that same thing happen with the clutch safety switch on the miata. I temporarily stole one of the push clips that hold the carpet behind the seats down so I could drive it to work. I later came back and just removed the switch entirely. Couple of spade connectors and 2" of wire later and I no longer need to press the clutch to start the car

That would be a nice feature to have... but mine has one thing the ND lacks

108w on average and 4mil ppd average. The higher end cards are actually a bit better for folding. The 4070 Ti is only double the power draw but 3x the ppd. The appeal to the 4060 and 4060ti is that people rip them out of prebuilts and sell them cheap when they upgrade. So you could get a couple of them for less than one of the higher tier cards

In Fluxmaven I'll probably just have the 4060s going again this month. I need to toss the 4070 Ti on the test bench this weekend and see if I need to RMA it. My roommate was using it and it started constantly crashing while gaming. Tossed the A770 in and system has been fine.

Nice to see the lower TDP's. I'll probably wait until fall of next year and decide between the 9900X or 9800X3D to replace the 5900X. It'll probably just come down to what sort of deals Microcenter wants to tempt me with. I've already had a 3900X, 5900X, and 7900X. So part of me wants to keep the Ryzen 9 tradition going... Then I go upstairs and use the 7800X3D rig.

If I could afford to buy both, I'd love to have them both. I sold my 7900X to get a 7800X3D and don't regret that since it ended up in a dedicated 1440p gaming machine. In the main rig I lean towards not regressing on core count. I'm not buying both because I need to put money away for CCW2025 in the Netherlands

As much as I'd love to say I've owned at least one Ryzen 9 of every gen, the 9800X3D would make more sense for all I use it for... 9900X sounds cooler and the ole Microcenter will have them on sale a lot sooner though so I might end up going that way again

My comment was mostly just meant as encouragement. I'm glad that Jan can still enjoy photography even if it means leaving the good gear at home. I'm pretty sure he has an S23 or S24 Ultra which in pro mode gives enough flexibility to capture pretty darn decent shots. I also wouldn't call myself a good photographer even though I've taken both film and digital courses as part of my BFA. My digital course was mostly taught by a graduate assistant. They were of the newer train of thought of shoot bracketed and just fire off as many photos as possible and find the best thing to work with in post. The film instructor put more emphasis on "doing the editing with the camera". Taking time to meter and get the exposure as close as you could and putting thought into every shot to spend less time in the dark room. I do enjoy photography and it might make it's way back into my list of "non-PC hobbies". I totally agree in getting decent gear to make yourself the limiting factor. That said, It is still kind of sad when you see someone with a nice camera set on auto that will never be used to even 1/10th of it's capability. (Grandma that got sweet talked by the Best Buy salesman into the latest EOS Rebel kit)

Shhh don't go telling people about our special encounters

I've tried electric kits as well as mutes, mesh heads etc. nothing feels as good as the real thing. I don't play as hard as I used to, but I've cracked and keyholed a few cymbals over the years. If I get to a point where I'm playing more I will slowly upgrade, but I'm happy with what I have for now. Most spare funds have been going into car stuff lately

You've got a really nice setup. Our drum line in high school was all Pearl. We beat the hell out of that stuff and it took it like a champ. I also have a "standard ATX kit" in the attic After I pieced the little kit together I bought an entire setup just for some of the cymbals and hardware. The high hats are the one thing that have survived multiple moves and downsizing over the years. Vintage Avedis Zildjan that are probably older than me. Sabian B8 splash, crash, and ride are honestly not bad for entry level cymbals. 10" SJC snare. 10, 12" Gretsch catalina maple toms. Hero drum works 16" mini bass. Pdp double pedal. With how good cell phone cameras have gotten, it's a lot easier to skip lugging around the "real" cameras. The important part is to get out and take pictures. If you have a good eye for composition, you could take better pictures with a baked potato than a clueless person with a Leica.

Some beefed up monster GPU sounds neat but I wouldn't be a buyer. If they focus on efficiency with decent bump in performance and keep the prices the same, I might be replacing my 3090. If the 5080 was a bit faster than a 4090 with ≤ 300w power draw at $1000, I think they would have a winner. That really shouldn't be much to ask for, but Ngreedia just can't help themselves.

Outdoorsy stuff like cycling, kayaking, and target shooting. These have been out of the rotation for a while but I want to get back into them. Can also toss walking/hiking into the mix. I enjoy thrifting and antiquing. Now that most stuff is built with planned obsolescence and designed to be disposable, I really enjoy finding neat older things that were designed to last. I love music. I still have collections on vinyl, cassette, and CD. Enjoy going to concerts and festivals. I have played drums off and on for over half my life at this point. I have a compact drum set in my bedroom that I'd like to play more, but acoustic drums are ignorantly loud and I don't live alone. 16" bass drum next to an ITX rig for a sense of scale. I'm also into cars and motorcycles. I like modifying things and also do my own maintenance and repairs. I haven't owned an actual motorcycle in a couple years, but my roommate and I bought the cheapest 50cc scooters we could find to fart around town on. My current fleet of projects: 2015 Ford Mustang 1997 Mazda Miata 1984 BMW 323i 1996 Yamaha Razz