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Build Log - Sir B's Black/White/Gold O11-Dynamic


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1 minute ago, Avacado said:

For now, until you get those extras. I would just bend a new tube as you seem to have plenty left over. I know you had wanted to finish the build this weekend. 

That is the plan, going to keep practicing and maybe I can get it right.

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Just now, iamjanco said:

I wouldn't recommend a finishing bit on acrylic tubing unless you've got a/an (e.g., d.i.y.) tubing drill press jig that will hold the tubing in place steadily while the drill is at constant rpms. You'll risk cracking the tubing otherwise (I know, I've tried).

Oh...good to know. I'll leave it be then and just keep with the sandpaper then.

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8 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

 

 

Thank you everyone. I will take a look at getting that jig for holding the tubing and a small dremmel and see how that goes.

 

I think I will also give that finishing bit a try. Supposedly can use it at a higher speed on the drill for making those small "cuts" and then of course normal/slower speeds for reaming/smoothing it out.

 

...just a quick addendum re. Dremel tube cutting...use a small piece of rubber (~ 2 - 3 mm) around the tubing and in s.th. like a vice grip (w/o too much pressure to avoid cracking or even deformation - just enough to hold it firmly in place). Also, once cut, you can use the 'sides' of the Dremel wheel to both straighten and smooth the cuts out, though the final prep should use some fine sandpaper. Also, after cutting, flush the whole tube with distilled / deionized water. 

 

 

Edited by J7SC_Orion
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8 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Oh...good to know. I'll leave it be then and just keep with the sandpaper then.

A sharp pipe reamer actually works pretty good on acrylic if you keep a bowl of water with a few drops of dish soap in it by your side while cleaning up the cut edges. Trims a lot faster and cleaner if you dip the tubing end in the water during the process; and regularly dip the reamer in the same bowl to clear out the trimmed excess.

 

pipe-reamers.thumb.jpg.748e21ce6e8cc8c21a76a6f075d7ae04.jpg

Edited by iamjanco
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5 minutes ago, iamjanco said:

A sharp pipe reamer actually works pretty good on acrylic if you keep a bowl of water with a few drops of dish soap in it by your side while cleaning up the cut edges. Trims a lot faster and cleaner if you dip the tubing end in the water during the process; and regularly dip the reamer in the same bowl to clear out the trimmed excess.

 

pipe-reamers.thumb.jpg.748e21ce6e8cc8c21a76a6f075d7ae04.jpg

I have been using one of these so far and does seem to work, but maybe I am using it too much, seems to make sort of a v-shape on the tubing edge but the time the tubing feels smooth?

 

Been using the sandpaper to kind of take out that v.

Edited by Sir Beregond
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 06/05/2022 at 11:28, J7SC_Orion said:

 

...just a quick addendum re. Dremel tube cutting...use a small piece of rubber (~ 2 - 3 mm) around the tubing and in s.th. like a vice grip (w/o too much pressure to avoid cracking or even deformation - just enough to hold it firmly in place). Also, once cut, you can use the 'sides' of the Dremel wheel to both straighten and smooth the cuts out, though the final prep should use some fine sandpaper. Also, after cutting, flush the whole tube with distilled / deionized water. 

 

 

What size Dremel wheel do you get for doing the cuts on a 14mm tube all the way through? Just trying to see if this kit I found has what I need. Thinking of picking one of these up.

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2 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

What size Dremel wheel do you get for doing the cuts on a 14mm tube all the way through? Just trying to see if this kit I found has what I need. Thinking of picking one of these up.

 

...I used these one - the standard 1 1/2 inch size 

 

DremelMay7_2021.thumb.jpg.dc1d08b6dfda7007598b8cf8c9b5e596.jpg

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2 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

...I used these one - the standard 1 1/2 inch size 

 

DremelMay7_2021.thumb.jpg.dc1d08b6dfda7007598b8cf8c9b5e596.jpg

OK, and that lets you cut all the way through the tubing, or do you have to go around?

 

The problem I had with this saw was that it didn't cut the 14mm all the way through, and was hard to flip tube and line it back up to get a clean cut.

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2 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

OK, and that lets you cut all the way through the tubing, or do you have to go around?

 

The problem I had with this saw was that it didn't cut the 14mm all the way through, and was hard to flip tube and line it back up to get a clean cut.

 

I had mounted the Dremel in a vice and rolled the tube all the way around. But when doing it the other way (mounting the tube in the vice instead) you can then use the flat side of the Dremel wheel after to make it perfectly flat / even, then sand.

 

However, this bigger Dremel monster w/ much bigger wheel I got since then would make it all the way through, depending how you handle the guard...

 

DremelUltraSawU.jpg.cfd86f61a54c5f2756443e21728a62b9.jpg

 

  

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Hmm, thanks for the info. I may see if I can find a bit bigger of a cut off saw.

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10 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

I had mounted the Dremel in a vice and rolled the tube all the way around. But when doing it the other way (mounting the tube in the vice instead) you can then use the flat side of the Dremel wheel after to make it perfectly flat / even, then sand.

 

However, this bigger Dremel monster w/ much bigger wheel I got since then would make it all the way through, depending how you handle the guard...

 

DremelUltraSawU.jpg.cfd86f61a54c5f2756443e21728a62b9.jpg

 

  

 

While I have never used it on anything PC related.....I love my Ultra Saw. Well, excepting the price of the blades and how quickly the wood blades dull.

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7 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Hmm, thanks for the info. I may see if I can find a bit bigger of a cut off saw.

 

...as posted a page or so back, I've also used a table saw before w/ a metal cutting wheel (ie.. for the w-cooling copper tubing of the dual 2080 Ti build in 2018/19)...makes a heck of a racket, though --- but via the guides, the cut is perfectly straight and quick...a bit of overkill, IMO, because the Dremel w/ metal cutting wheel does a fine job on copper tubing as well.

 

tablesaw_Raven_B.jpg

 

 

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3 minutes ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

...as posted a page or so back, I've also used a table saw before w/ a metal cutting wheel (ie.. for the w-cooling copper tubing of the dual 2080 Ti build in 2018/19)...makes a heck of a racket, though --- but via the guides, the cut is perfectly straight and quick...a bit of overkill, IMO, because the Dremel w/ metal cutting wheel does a fine job on copper tubing as well.

 

tablesaw_Raven_B.jpg

 

 

Sadly no room for something like this where I live right now. Maybe when I get a house and have more than a tiny detached garage.

 

Also wondering if I am overthinking this and just need to get a better hacksaw and vice/miter box. 😀

 

Took a look at the one @iamjanco mentioned, seems to be for 12mm and 16mm, so will keep looking for a good one for 14mm.

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Been a while, had a little time this weekend to practice some more multi bend tubes. I managed to get the CPU block to top radiator run done.

 

Now I am contemplating the best way to do a tubing run from the reservoir to the CPU block. Any ideas?

 

 

20220522_215826.jpg

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8 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Been a while, had a little time this weekend to practice some more multi bend tubes. I managed to get the CPU block to top radiator run done.

 

Now I am contemplating the best way to do a tubing run from the reservoir to the CPU block. Any ideas?

 

 

20220522_215826.jpg

That's a tough one to suggest. You are running your flow in reverse right? CPU first? Anything that I would suggest would involve switching things around too much 🙂. I am sure whatever you come up will be fine. And you fixed your bottom run, it looks clean. Reminds me of one of the earliest O11XL build variants I had at one point. 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.65365f4bcdb34ec9c17b300896701cc8.jpeg

Edited by Avacado
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3 hours ago, Avacado said:

That's a tough one to suggest. You are running your flow in reverse right? CPU first? Anything that I would suggest would involve switching things around too much 🙂. I am sure whatever you come up will be fine. And you fixed your bottom run, it looks clean. Reminds me of one of the earliest O11XL build variants I had at one point. 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.65365f4bcdb34ec9c17b300896701cc8.jpeg

Nice, yeah I notice many go from the bottom up, which I guess is an option, but not typically how my loops have been.

 

So to be clear on loop order: Res/Pump -> CPU block -> 360GTX (top rad) -> GPU block -> flow/temp meter -> 360GTS (bottom rad) -> back to res/pump.

 

I've typically always ran my loops in a top down order. Is there a good reason to switch it? Didn't think it really mattered.

Edited by Sir Beregond
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15 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Any ideas?

1.jpg.8498ad9f7ee5cc373c6cc6b8b15da37c.jpg

 

🤷‍♂️

 

 

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2 minutes ago, ArchStanton said:

1.jpg.8498ad9f7ee5cc373c6cc6b8b15da37c.jpg

 

🤷‍♂️

 

 

Yeah was toying with that idea or maybe a 45 degree angle in there as well. Going to maybe try a few pieces and see what I like.

 

The one issue I am running into is the tight run from the bottom rad to the pump return. I may get another fitting so I can run a small straight tube there. Trying to run a very tight 90 bend in that tubing hasn't been working well.

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Well it took me a long time and many failed tubes, but I finally got this piece. That just leaved the return piece from the bottom radiator to the pump. That piece is tricky because it's a very tight fit so I am seeing if I can find another fitting to just do a piece of straight tube there.

 

EDIT: And I don't have an extension fitting, so looks like another order for one as I jut can't get that tight a bend to work.

 

 

20220528_225100.jpg

20220528_225400.jpg

Edited by Sir Beregond
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6 minutes ago, Sir Beregond said:

Well it took me a long time and many failed tubes, but I finally got this piece. That just leaved the return piece from the bottom radiator to the pump. That people is tricky because it's a very tight fit so I am seeing if I can find another fitting to just do a piece of straight tube there.

 

 

20220528_225100.jpg

20220528_225400.jpg

 

Looking good !

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7 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Well it took me a long time and many failed tubes, but I finally got this piece. That just leaved the return piece from the bottom radiator to the pump. That piece is tricky because it's a very tight fit so I am seeing if I can find another fitting to just do a piece of straight tube there.

 

EDIT: And I don't have an extension fitting, so looks like another order for one as I jut can't get that tight a bend to work.

 

 

20220528_225100.jpg

20220528_225400.jpg

That looks really good and flows well! 

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14 hours ago, J7SC_Orion said:

 

Looking good !

 

6 hours ago, Avacado said:

That looks really good and flows well! 

 

Thank you both! This has been quite the learning experience, that's for sure.

 

I went ahead and placed an order to PPCs for a couple extensions as well as some cable combs for the Nvidia 12-pin extension as its a bit unwieldy. Shipping from them was basically same cost as the order itself, so just did Ground. So maybe mid to late this upcoming week can finish up. After the tube runs are done, will use the leak tester and if everything looks good, can finally fill it up!

 

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Hmm wish they made an extension that was just slightly bigger. Wasn't quite long enough. Had to put a very slight bend to offset the straight tube run. Not the most elegant solution, but will work for now.

 

I also went ahead and leak tested. I had the EK tester and read it was wrong with where they put the "green zone" on it (typical EK... 🙃 ) and attached to where my drain port is and measured it holding at 0.5 bar for 1 hour. It didn't drop even a little bit, so guessing that means its good to go. Anything else I should do with that?

 

Anyway, plan to fill it up tomorrow as its late and I also want to redo a couple cable runs in the back.

 

 

 

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CPU: E8400, i5-650, i7-870, i7-960, i5-2400, i7-4790k, i9-10900k, i3-13100, i9-13900ks
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RAM: Corsair 32GB DDR3-2400 | Oloy Blade 16GB DDR4-3600 | Crucial 16GB DDR5-5600
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P7P55 WS SC | ASUS Z97 Deluxe | EVGA Z490 Dark | EVGA Z790 Dark Kingpin
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