Show Your Car and Car Discussion Thread

[Storm-Chaser]

4 minutes ago, Diffident said:

 

You did a suspension rebuild at a camp ground?    I've replaced a water pump in the parking lot of a bank, but I didn't CHOOSE to do it there...it was just where my friend happen to break down.

My dad and I were going cross country and stayed in Truckee, CA for a few weeks (at this campground). That gave me time to order all the parts needed and prepare for it somewhat in advance. 

 

But no, I will never do that again if I can help it. What a nightmare.

 

 

Prior to this, both wheel bearings failed at the exact same time somewhere in texas. 

Luckily there was a machine shop nearby to press the old bearings out and the new ones on. But it was still a major PITA. One thing to note, if you ever buy a Taurus SHO be prepared to work on it all the time or it will break you. lol

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[tictoc]

The indestructible STi has traveled it's last mile.  Rod went a knocking yesterday.

 

I have a fresh shortblock to put in it, so I might post some build pics, and some pics of whatever carnage there is once I pull and disassemble the dead motor.

 

Edited September 22, 2022 by tictoc

[pio]

RIP 

 

Keep us posted man.  Maybe the next one will last another 260+k.   

[Diffident]

18 hours ago, tictoc said:

The indestructible STi has traveled it's last mile.  Rod went a knocking yesterday.

 

I have a fresh shortblock to put in it, so I might post some build pics, and some pics of whatever carnage there is once I pull and disassemble the dead motor.

 

 

I can only imagine how horrific it will be to pull that engine.  There is no room and there's so much crap to get out of the way.  The only engine I've ever pulled was the 350 I had in my 1968 Camaro....the engine compartment is huge and there aren't many accessories so it was easy.

Edited September 22, 2022 by Diffident

[N2 Gaming]

Try pulling a 5.0L out of a 98 Explorer in 115F temps two days in a row while feeling like you are going to pass out just from bending over or squatting and standing back up.  My most recent engine project is a 1994 Super Cab F150 5.0L 5spd 4x4 Lifted truck I recently purchased for a song.

 

Got the engine home and pulled the pistons for inspection to discover very minimal wear.  I think I'll get away with a hone and new rings.  I kind of melted the coating on the Hypereutectic pistions by soaking them in Purple Power "don't do that" but they are super clean now and ready for new rings. 

[tictoc]

2 hours ago, Diffident said:

 

I can only imagine how horrific it will be to pull that engine.  There is no room and there's so much crap to get out of the way.  The only engine I've ever pulled was the 350 I had in my 1968 Camaro....the engine compartment is huge and there aren't many accessories so it was easy.

 

While it's a bit more involved than pulling a small block out of a pre-80's vehicle, it's actually pretty easy to pull the motor on these cars.  I've pulled at least 10 EJ's, and the way the motor is designed, nearly everything can stay attached and the whole thing comes out.  It is pretty much as simple as

• Remove hood
• Disconnect and remove battery
• Remove intercooler
• Disconnect fuel lines
• Disconnect and pull radiator
• Remove A/C and PS belts
• Disconnect down pipe from turbo
• Disconnect main harness
• Disconnect misc. other wiring harnesses
• Unbolt pitch-stop
• Disengage clutch
• Unbolt A/C compressor and PS Pump and flip them out of the way
• Remove the 6 bellhousing to block bolts
• Remove 2 engine mount nuts

Personally without a lift, I think it is faster and easier to yank the motor when replacing the clutch, since there is probably some other mainteneace to be done that will be easier with the motor out like: plugs, timing belt, water pump, etc.  This motor has been out of the car twice.  Once for a new clutch, and once to do the head gaskets.

 

All in it's 1-1/2 to 2 hours to pull the motor.

 

[Diffident]

19 hours ago, tictoc said:

 

While it's a bit more involved than pulling a small block out of a pre-80's vehicle, it's actually pretty easy to pull the motor on these cars.  I've pulled at least 10 EJ's, and the way the motor is designed, nearly everything can stay attached and the whole thing comes out.  It is pretty much as simple as

• Remove hood
• Disconnect and remove battery
• Remove intercooler
• Disconnect fuel lines
• Disconnect and pull radiator
• Remove A/C and PS belts
• Disconnect down pipe from turbo
• Disconnect main harness
• Disconnect misc. other wiring harnesses
• Unbolt pitch-stop
• Disengage clutch
• Unbolt A/C compressor and PS Pump and flip them out of the way
• Remove the 6 bellhousing to block bolts
• Remove 2 engine mount nuts

Personally without a lift, I think it is faster and easier to yank the motor when replacing the clutch, since there is probably some other mainteneace to be done that will be easier with the motor out like: plugs, timing belt, water pump, etc.  This motor has been out of the car twice.  Once for a new clutch, and once to do the head gaskets.

 

All in it's 1-1/2 to 2 hours to pull the motor.

 

 

You make it sound so easy.    But I'll stick to my small block V8's. Everything has easy access.  It's been over 20 years since I had anything that wasn't a V8.

[tictoc]

2 hours ago, Diffident said:

 

Everything has easy access.

I don't disagree with that.  I had the 400 out of my '78 Bronco in about 30 minutes.

 

I am about 25/75, flat-four:V8, over the last twenty years.  All the V8's except one have been pre-1980's, and they are a breeze to work on. I also must tinker with everything, so having AccessTUNER Race to dial in the Subies is pretty great. 

[Fluxmaven]

It's been a while since I washed the wagon and it gets parked on the street so it was pretty gross. Washed it, then pulled it up and rolled the Miata out of the garage and gave it a quick wash too. 

[The Pook]

 

Address 01: Engine (J623-CKRA)       Labels:. 03L-906-022-CFC.clb
   Component: R4 2.0l TDI
   Revision: 71H20

3 Faults Found:

18623 - NOx Sensor 1 Bank 1
          P2201 00 [232] - Implausible Signal
          MIL ON - Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00000001
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 7
                    Mileage: 99088 km
                    Date: 2022.08.29
                    Time: 12:27:51

                    Engine RPM: 0.00 /min
                    Normed load value: 0.0 %
                    Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
                    Coolant temperature: 93 °C
                    Intake air temperature: 27 °C
                    Ambient air pressure: 990 mbar
                    Voltage terminal 30: 12.540 V
                    Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
                    Air mass: actual value (mg/stroke): 0.0 mg/stroke
                    Mean injection quantity: 0.00 mg/stroke
                    EGR Vacuum Regulator Solen.val.: activation: 100.00 %
                    NOx Emission NOx Sensor: 0 ppm
                    Air mass to enable NOx sensor 1 offset test: 0.0 g
                    Calculated efficiency of NOx conversion: 0.950

18638 - NOx Sensor 1 Bank 1
          P2201 00 [096] - Implausible Signal
          Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

15733 - SCR NOx Catalyst Bank 1
          P20EE 00 [096] - Efficiency too Low
          Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0

 

not sure why it says 8/29 because the CEL didn't come up until today. I cleared it and went on a ~10 mile drive and it didn't pop back up, hoping it was just a car fart.

supposedly it's covered under dieselgate but internet wisdom says that getting VW to honor it is a PITA though

[Avacado]

7 minutes ago, Fluxmaven said:

It's been a while since I washed the wagon and it gets parked on the street so it was pretty gross. Washed it, then pulled it up and rolled the Miata out of the garage and gave it a quick wash too. 

Your plate is NOT Yeet. Haha. Well im not much better.

 

 

[Fluxmaven]

Funny story, I actually had YEET submitted for approval and someone else also put in for it within a week of me and they got into the DMV and paid for it first so I had to change mine to YEEET.

 

No issues getting Maven for the wagon other than it taking forever for them to process custom plates. I ran around with a Kansas livestock association EAT BEEF novelty plate on the back for 6+ months while waiting for the custom plate. Had plenty of cops behind me but never got hassled for it.

 

Now the EAT BEEF plate is on my BMW because it's not actually registered 

 

 

[Avacado]

So now that I have my car back and this week off I am going to try to get this intake installed and fix the sun damaged paint on the rear spoiler.

 

 

[Alex]

Never heard of Malco before... also are you planning on getting it tuned with the intake? Any other mods done?

Edited October 19, 2022 by Alex

[Avacado]

9 hours ago, Alex said:

Never heard of Malco before... also are you planning on getting it tuned with the intake? Any other mods done?

I had never heard of Malco before either. It seemed to have good reviews on Amazon. No other mods, I don't think I will be doing anything crazy. I had thought to get it tuned, but have not looked into local shops to get it done. It usually costs what? 300-500 for a tune?

 

 

Edited October 19, 2022 by Avacado

[Fluxmaven]

Inb4 big turbo and spicy e85 tune

[Sir Beregond]

Reminds me I need to get the ol' DA polisher out and once again attempt to paint correct. My paint is pretty bad. Black car. Found some etched spots and not sure what that's from, I am usually good at catching that stuff.

 

Any recommendations for compound and polish?

Edited October 19, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[N2 Gaming]

I don't imagine any one would be interested in the '90 brick nose Eddie Bower Bronco I am building would y'all?  I picked it up for a song "$160" missing engine, radiator, seats, fuel tank, original wheels and tires. and a few other odds and ends like rear view mirror,  wiper arms/blades, passenger door mirror, antenna and rear spare tire carrier and spare tire.

 

So far to date I have got seats out of an explorer, wiper arms w/blades, antenna, aluminum door switches and a/c switches out of a anniversary edition mustang, chrome steelie wheels from a F-series truck, some used but in good shape tires to get it rolling and drive able once I get an engine installed. 

 

I have a lot of things that I still need to get .  today I got some Seat brackets out of a '92 Nite Bronco the rarest of them all besides the Centennial 4 door Bronco but I can't see any good reason for this thing to be in the junk yard.  Not in any accidents as far as I can tell from looking.  Oh any way.  It was missing the front clip and rear spare tire carrier.  I need to go back and get the Fuel tank.  I'd get the engine but I'm going to wait for a 50% off sale and get a '96 year roller cam 5.8L engine and put all the '90 smog sensors on it.  I can get some pics uploaded later if any one takes an interest.

Edited October 19, 2022 by N2 Gaming

[Fluxmaven]

13 hours ago, Sir Beregond said:

Reminds me I need to get the ol' DA polisher out and once again attempt to paint correct. My paint is pretty bad. Black car. Found some etched spots and not sure what that's from, I am usually good at catching that stuff.

 

Any recommendations for compound and polish?

The paint on the Miata was getting a bit tired (also a black car) so I polished it for the first time this summer. I was scared to mess it up so I went with very non aggressive stuff first. Chemical Guys V36 cutting and V38 Final polish. They were pretty cheap on sale and gave me the confidence to try something a bit more aggressive and work my way back to the finer compounds. 

 

Picked up Meguiar's M10508 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound and It seemed like a step in the right direction. I got impatient and started driving the car again. So now I want to start over and clay bar the car, go over again with the Meguiar's then the Chemical Guys stuff. I probably won't get any more Chemical Guys polish. I'll go with other Meguiar's stuff unless anyone else has any other good recommendations 

 

8 hours ago, N2 Gaming said:

I don't imagine any one would be interested in the '90 brick nose Eddie Bower Bronco I am building would y'all? 

Post it. Sounds like it needs a decent amount of work and would be cool to see the progress. 

[Avacado]

Posted this on discord too.

 

 

 

[The Pook]

it u 

 

 

[Sir Beregond]

11 hours ago, Fluxmaven said:

The paint on the Miata was getting a bit tired (also a black car) so I polished it for the first time this summer. I was scared to mess it up so I went with very non aggressive stuff first. Chemical Guys V36 cutting and V38 Final polish. They were pretty cheap on sale and gave me the confidence to try something a bit more aggressive and work my way back to the finer compounds. 

 

Picked up Meguiar's M10508 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound and It seemed like a step in the right direction. I got impatient and started driving the car again. So now I want to start over and clay bar the car, go over again with the Meguiar's then the Chemical Guys stuff. I probably won't get any more Chemical Guys polish. I'll go with other Meguiar's stuff unless anyone else has any other good recommendations 

 

Post it. Sounds like it needs a decent amount of work and would be cool to see the progress. 

 

I usually use Meguiar's as well, but was just curious.

 

I am going to use some Iron remover spray on the next wash and then clay bar the car as well before I follow it up with a compound and polish. 

 

What do you like to finish with? Just wax, or something else. I was using this Turtle Wax Seal n Shine and it worked pretty well, was then curious if layering some wax on top of it is a good idea or not. 

Edited October 20, 2022 by Sir Beregond

[Fluxmaven]

I'm usually lazy and just follow up a wash with some Meguiar's Quik Wax. I have several others in the shelf of detailing stuff that are better like Griot's garage but I don't always want to take the time to do a paste wax. 

 

I haven't really dove into all the products out there like sealers and ceramics and whatnot. The mainstays in my arsenal are mostly just soaps and waxes 

[Diffident]

17 hours ago, Fluxmaven said:

 I'll go with other Meguiar's stuff unless anyone else has any other good recommendations 

 

 

Adams Polishes

 

Adam's Polishes | Premium Car Care & Detailing Products

ADAMSPOLISHES.COM

---

Adam's Polishes provides premium detailing products designed to reduce time & steps in the process. We provide Wheel Cleaner...

 

And check out their Youtube videos for demo's on how to properly use each of their products.

 

https://www.youtube.com/user/Adamspolishes

[Alex]

M105 / M205 are the go-to compound/polish for good value for money. Otherwise CarPro has some great products, but they are more pricey. For a DA polisher Griot's make some great stuff for a decent price.