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Small is the correct setting. The crossover only works when set to small (usually). And you do want the crossover as it blocks frequencies from your main speakers that they cannot reproduce anyway. It's possible you just need to mess with the crossover frequency settings.

Dude that sucks. -_- The pictures in the listing, it looked like it was half decent.

That would be a no then. It says right there: "The integrated video decoder supports all popular codecs such as MPEG2, H.264, VC1, VP8 and MVC and is suitable for resolutions up to 4K up to 100 Mbit/s. The user can connect up to two displays via HDMI 1.4 (max. 1920 x 1080) or DisplayPort 1.2 (max. 2560 x 1600). Another new feature is the support for Wireless Display and Quick Sync, Intel's fast and power efficient H-264 hardware encoder." The fact that they're touting the H-264 hardware encoder means that was the best it really could do (in my opinion anyway). HEVC is H-265. There's no mention of H-265 or HEVC anywhere in the specifications. So no, it doesn't support it, only H-264. Of course, the CPU itself might be capable of it, but the IGPU, no its not.

We've got a little bit of everyone around here. Neat setup! Older than my stuff so far. Welcome to ehw! That setup would actually be a pretty good fit for Win95. 98 if you really wanted to go "newer" with it. I've got a 98SE box running right now, but its P3 era Athlon, don't have my K6 running yet. All I have to say is good luck with 3d, I've had absolutely zero luck in that department so far. -_-

They're good for under 30hz, "subsonic" frequencies. So let me give a general idea of frequencies here so it makes more sense. These are general, and can be different depending on the setup. Terminology, one "octave" is a doubling of frequency. So 20-40hz is one octave. 60-120 is one octave. Etc. 01-20/30hz = subsonic. You can feel these but not hear them. Most people can hear down to AROUND 20hz. Bass shakers or transducers are a wonderful addition for these frequencies. 20-60/80hz - subwoofer bass. Non directional, so you can't tell where it's coming from in the room (or car). Subwoofers CAN get down into subsonic, and a good home theater sub will. In general, a subwoofer works BEST if kept within about 1/2 octave below tuning and about 1 octave above tuning. But this rule can be bent, but it's a general rule because of enclosure tuning. It all depends on the enclosure type though. 60/80-250hz - mid bass. Your front speakers woofers should be capable of this full range. This is why I recommend bigger than logitechs. This keeps the directional bass from going to the sub (bass where you can hear WHERE in the room it's coming from). 250-2.5/5khz - midrange. This can come from a dedicated midrange driver in your speakers in a 3 way set, or from the woofer in a 2 way set. If there's a dedicated midrange driver it'll typically go up to 5khz ish. If it's a 2 way set, it'll be down lower around 2.5. This is mostly your vocals, and well MOST of your frequency you hear. It's a huge range. 2.5/5khz - 20khz+ - treble. This is your hissing sounds, high hats, and other extremely high frequency driven by your tweeter. Having a GOOD tweeter will save your ears. These are the most dangerous frequencies. You'll find different tweeters absolutely sound different. Air drivers and soft domes are generally the easiest on your ears, horns and metal domes (super tweeters) can get EXTREMELY loud and are quite harsh. You find these types at concerts or dB drag cars. Kind of a preference thing there. So transducers are effective, assuming you need or want the extreme subsonic frequencies and your subwoofer isn't capable. You won't HEAR any difference. But you'll feel it. You will need an amplifier for them, and you'll want to tune them to where your sub drops off at.

Welp, already found some fatalities and problems with the stuff I was wanting to bench. My 2900XT is actually the coveted GDDR4 version, NOT the standard GDDR3 version. So can't run that. Submitted an offer for a HD4850 on ebay, so we'll see. My Radeon 8500 is also dead on arrival (as of a year+ ago). The gold contacts on the AGP slot pins are completely flaked off on a couple of them, and the card has zero video output. It worked for a few minutes, I pulled it and inspected it, touched the pins, it flaked off.....and yeah, its dead now. So put in an offer on a Radeon 7500. Hwbot is expensive. -_- However I DID find in my collection a HD4670 GDDR2 card. That was a happy find. Much better than the HD4450 I have coming in the mail that I no longer need. -_- I'd return it, but that'd just be a pretty bad move really considering its ebay and not a major e-tailer. So far, I've got two submissions in though. Stage 1 and 3 on AMD GPU's. I could do Stage 5 on my main rig, but honestly that's just going to suck as I know I'm going to score low in that category. 2900+MHz 6900XT's? Yeah, I don't stand a chance lol. I'll run it, just not yet.

I have nearly the same panel, Samsung 5120x1440 @ 120Hz panel in a Viotek monitor. It works really well for up close racing sims, absolutely! If you end up putting the monitors further back though, you might want something like 3 way 32" or upwards of 55" screens (depending on where they sit). But up close, the 49" Ultrawide is absolutely fantastic! Consider me jelly of your seat. I'm still using a rolling office chair, with the wheel just clamped to the desk for now. The GTX 1070 would be a pretty decent upgrade from the 7970's. 6900XT would be overkill at 3840x1080, but it actually is just about PERFECT for 5120x1440. Just as an FYI.

Are you going to do a full on cockpit eventually? I want to SOOOO badly, but my measely Momo wheel just isn't worth spending the time or effort into building one just yet. Nor do I have the space in my apartment right now. 7970 Crossfire "should" still be plenty for a good cockpit really. That'll still play Beamng.drive and Forza, and any of the other newer racing titles. Maybe at lowered settings, like medium ish, but the 7970's still do a fine job.

Just received a box in from another forum member off site. Some of you probably know the guy if you've ever been to hwbot. Mr.Scott, I know you're not here, but THANK YOU! I won't go into too much detail as to what was in the box, but its a ton of good stuff that's going to help out on these last 3 old builds. For now, I'm going to focus on getting these AGP GPU's to work correctly, and that's going to require taking them apart and re-greasing and re-padding them. As I cannot do it, I'm going to be outsourcing those deeds to a good buddy of mine from OCN, been good buddies since 2006. I'll be shipping the AGP cards (and maybe my 2900XT and 3870) off to him on payday, and see what kind of luck he has taking them all apart. I know my Radeon 9800XT has completely rounded out bolts, and I just am NOT comfortable trying to fix that myself after my GTX 470 fiasco (search it on OCN). I've never been good at getting stripped bolts out, and he's got the stuff on hand to do so. Once I have the AGP cards back in hand again, and NOT sitting here overheating at idle, I should be ready to build the last 2, maybe even all 3 of the last rigs for the collection. I'm still not 100% decided on doing a K5 / Win95 build yet since I have literally nothing on hand for that yet, and I started with 98. Also, huge shout out to @tictoc. He knows why. Something special is coming in next week for my son's build from him.

Anybody want to hop in the discord channel tonight around 9:30 maybe 10pm pst and give me a hand? I'll be getting my camera going so I can show what I'm benching. I've never done hwbot before other than a single cpuz submission years ago. Just thought a Friday night would be a good time. If not, it's cool. I'm a big boy, I can read the rules myself. Rules are meant to be bent, right?

I've done encoding with handbrake on my v3 Xeons. Takes about 30-45 minutes or so to encode 90 minutes ish with 32 threads dedicated to it. I think Handbrake has thread limitations though, and I've never used the software you're talking about. If the software you're using can utilize all 56 threads, the thread count alone will probably be sufficient. But as @Fluxmaven pointed out, wouldn't hurt to give the GPU a try if you already have one. Or, also as mentioned, any modern GTX or RTX card will also do the job just fine too, I want to say GTX 900 series or newer should be supported? Might be a cheaper route to go for an encoding GPU. Quadro cards are generally pretty expensive for what you're getting even on the used markets.

+1. I've been watching the freebies on Epic every week. This week's a GOOD one! Was just playing it at 5120x1440 @ 120Hz, and it plays just fine at Ultrawide resolutions. Controls seem fine enough. Graphics are certainly better than they were back in the day, not quite as good a remake as the recent Quake upgrade, but still a great addition for a "free" game.

Gotcha (both of you lol). I've only read the amd stages myself so wasn't sure.

2500k is 1155 socket. I'm on mobile so can't multi-task good enough to do tabs lol. Is the ddr3 category a different socket on Intel?

Doesn't matter if someone has better from my understanding of what avacado said. The more submissions we get as a team, stock, overclocked, slow or fast, the better. So do it up man! Good excuse to play with your 2500k again!

Count me in! I just bought an Athlon x2 7750BE Kuma and Radeon HD4450 last night just for this purpose! Here's what I have that I'll be running. I'll have to go through this stuff with you seasoned vets and make sure I'm not "cheating" on any of these runs too. I've bought what I'm going to buy, so if something I have doesn't line up, I might have to skip that round. AMD CPU competition: Stage 1: AMD Athlon x2 4200+ Toledo (if it works, sucks they say no Opterons) Stage 2: Athlon x2 7750BE Kuma Stage 3: Phenom II 1100T locked to 4 cores (I hope that's not cheating?) Stage 4: Ryzen 5800x AMD GPU competition: Stage 1: RX 580 8GB / FX 8350 Stage 2: ATI HD2900XT / FX 8350 Stage 3: HD4450 / FX 8350 Stage 4: ATI Radeon 8500SE / Athlon64 3200+ (will have to double check models on both) Stage 5: MSI AMD RX 6900XT / 5800x Again, assuming I read the requirements right on all of those. On some of the GPU benches, they don't specify what CPU so I'm assuming my FX will work (and be accepted). If not, I have other setups I can plop the GPU's into if its incompatible or not allowed per the rules.

It started in the 90's or so in June (about when I quit folding). We have 90*+ weather June through August typically. September it usually starts cooling back down into the 80's, and that's about when my AC can keep up with the heat from the rig again. It's just that one rig that gets the place so hot. I can have all my Ryzen rigs running (not folding or anything), and its fine. Fire up that FX rig though, let it idle, and the temperature in the house slowly creeps up. Let alone folding on it. I can concur, FX rigs definitely ARE space heaters.

Honestly, I'd try local listing them. Facebook marketplace, Craigslist, Offerup, things like that. For starters, you won't have to pay shipping (just make sure you meet somewhere safe). Secondly, you can generally ask a small premium locally. Those laptops "should" sell for like $200-250 locally I'd imagine, they're quite good laptops.

I'm only out because of summer heat right now. FX 8350 overclocked and a 290x kinda makes my bedroom toasty. And we've been having 100*+ weather. My AC couldn't keep up. I'll probably be resuming full time folding sometime next month once the weather cools.

I'm wondering here, did the pump have the PWM sense wire connected? I'm wondering if its not so much the resistance that its complaining about, but instead the fact that there's 0RPM being reported off the PWM wire? I think you might have been onto something putting a fan in its place. 0.1a at 12v, that would be right around a case fan type of a load.

This is a slightly outdated list but...... https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2122-who-actually-makes-liquid-coolers-oems Looks like Coolermaster might be an OEM for pumps all on their own, so testing the MasterLiquid AIO's might not end up providing any useful data. Looks like they also use Swiftec. Assuming the H100i Elite is like the others on the list, its likely a CoolIT pump, but Corsair does regular use Asetek pumps too. Whichever pump is in there, that list should help in determining what OTHER AIO's we can search for to rip apart, or search for data on to find the resistance of the appropriate pump. Hope that helped some. I know I had no idea Coolermaster made their own pumps. Would be nice if I could find a more modern and thorough list. EDIT: Yeah, its almost certainly a CoolIT pump in there seeing as Asetek sued Corsair and CoolIT in 2014. I doubt Corsair would go back to a company that sued them. From reading this article though, I'm wondering how similar the CoolIT pump really is to the Asetek units seeing as how they were sued for copyright infringement. https://www.tweaktown.com/news/38866/coolit-can-continue-making-custom-aio-cpu-liquid-coolers-for-corsair/index.html

Good chunk of copper like those slim Noctua coolers, or even a single 120mm AIO would probably be more than sufficient for cooling, at least to keep it at stock speeds. I doubt the board allows overclocking anyway. Probably don't even need a cooler THAT large really. That "big" Xeon, the W-11865MRE with 4.7GHz boost is only a 45w part. My small little aluminum wraith cooler does a fine job on 65w Ryzens. 45w TDP is getting into laptop cooling territory, my 2500u can draw twice that overclocked.

Interesting idea and project...... One thing you can try to do is pull the part number off the original pump. From what I can tell its probably a CoolIt pump perhaps? And maybe we can scrounge the internet up for some specifications on that particular pump. Surely somebody would've done a resistance check on it before. I can measure my Coolermaster 240mm unit, but its possible mine might be an Asetek. I'm not sure as I've never disassembled mine nor researched it. But what you'd want to do is find out what pump is in it for sure, and find the measurements in the datasheets online, or if not available, have somebody else measure (like you already asked).

Couple of updates: Kiddo's rig (the Ryzen 2600 build) is now working. I don't know HOW I managed to do it, but his CPU doesn't work still, the old 2600. His new 2600x does work fine though. Weirdly enough, his RAM doesn't work though. So there's another issue, now I'm short 2x8GB of DDR4. -_- It'll work out though, usually does. For now, I've got 8GB in his, and 8GB in the Ryzen 1400 rig. Still waiting on a Vega for his anyway, which is on order. I've submitted a return with newegg on the B450M Pro4 I just bought that's still BNIB, I installed the CPU once and it didn't work, so yeah, no need to keep that board around and I'm still within the return window. Once that gets returned, I'll buy him another kit of RAM. No big deal. Then his rig will be 100% complete. Other update: Got busy with some paint today. I'm still having GPU issues with these AGP cards. For some odd reason, they do not want to play DX titles on any of my AGP rigs, on any OS. They keep freezing. I'm thinking old thermal grease maybe? The caps look fine on them. If anybody feels comfortable enough to take apart old AGP GPU's (some may have severely stripped bolts), PM me. Otherwise, I might end up having to keep my eyes peeled for some Nvidia GPU's of the era maybe, I'm not sure. Not what I WANT to do, but if that's what it takes to play old games, then so be it. At least I'll have the Radeons for the collection anyway. It DOES play Quake just fine, and Quake 3 Arena (and Open Arena even online). So its not ALL bad. Looks wise, this rig's done. I do still have a little bit of tweaking here and there on it, but overall, this is the finalized product.

To be fair, the APU's from AMD are pretty freaking good. You're right, but the same could also be said about the RX 6400 and GTX 1050 (which is a MID tier card mind you....its just older). Yes, Intel needs better drivers seeing as they're brand new to the GPU scene now. Granted, they've been doing integrated graphics for years, so I guess they're just as guilty as the others about being lazy. AMD drivers have been pretty solid for years now, with only the occasional hiccup anymore. I've been rocking AMD cards since the 7970 and I've never had a driver issue up until their latest 22.7..1's, and I only tested that on my 6900XT. Nvidia on the other hand, has actually killed hardware with bad drivers (something AMD / ATI has never done). G92's and even as recently as the 980Ti's if I recall correctly. One has a more modern interface and interlaces quite well with games, and the other looks like it came straight off Windows 98. So really, which company really needs to fix their drivers more? Complaining about drivers is such a thing of the past anyway. If you have a driver that doesn't work right, rollback to a previous one. Same can be said for all 3 companies. The fact that we now have 3 competing companies for our GPU needs, in my opinion is a welcome change, being Intel or not. We keep forgetting, this A380 is a LOW END card too, as such it absolutely should perform at the low end especially at $120 USD release. Hey....it beats Intel integrated graphics doesn't it?