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Those are Dolby Atmos satellite speakers. Yes, they'll work, but you'll be looking for a Dolby Atmos receiver to properly utilize those. It doesn't matter if they match the subwoofer as they're going to be working completely different frequencies. But yes, those will work, and those will certainly work better than the Logitechs. Klipsch does make regular bookshelf speakers in their reference line up as well. Personally I'd go for those unless you're specifically looking for Atmos surround sound.

Yes you CAN use your old speakers. They're not as good as you think they are, I promise.....(no offense meant). BUT....they will work fine, yes. With an exception. You NEED a crossover on them. One other small exception, 4 ohm speakers MAY cause amplifier damage to the receiver, use at your own risk. I dunno if those are 4ohm or 8ohm satellite speakers, but its just a general warning. I've personally used 4ohm loads in the past on Yamaha, Pioneer, and Onkyo units without a catastrophic failure. Doesn't mean its safe, but it IS doable. Those speakers are small enough and low power enough, I'm 99.9% sure they'll be fine anyway. Your receiver MAY have a crossover built in. If so, use this and set the speakers to "small" (if a choice between small and large), and if possible, probably around 120-150Hz crossover frequency. Down as low as 100 should be fine with cautious listening. Modern receivers can do that. Older ones will not. So it'll depend on the receiver. Yes, this is perfectly fine to do and leave it that way without the below added in. It'll be fine, just don't play them loudly without the crossover turned on. Bass WILL destroy those speakers very quickly. If the receiver DOES NOT have built in high pass crossovers (small function for speakers), then you'll need bass blockers, which I'd add in there anyway just because you don't want to blow the satellites with bass. With these speakers, I would bass block them. Others, I wouldn't. What the resistance is of the speakers will determine which bass blockers you need. 8ohm 100Hz: 100 Hz High Pass 8 Ohm Crossover WWW.PARTS-EXPRESS.COM 100 Hz High Pass 8 Ohm Crossover. Part Number: 266-462 by Parts Express. 4ohm 100Hz: 100 Hz High Pass 4 Ohm Crossover WWW.PARTS-EXPRESS.COM 100 Hz High Pass 4 Ohm Crossover. Part Number: 266-460 by Parts Express. Buy whichever of those you need for your speakers, one per speaker. These plug in between the receiver and the speaker, and will cut all frequency below 100Hz to the speaker (bass). You CAN also re-use the really large capacitors in computer PSU's. You can google a capacitance chart for bass blockers to get an idea what frequency your particular capacitors will cut if you happen to have spare PSU's laying around you can gut. If I recall correctly, they were somewhere around like 100Hz at 8ohm and 150Hz at 4ohm ISH the last time I used a set of PSU caps as bass blockers. Your miles may vary. Capacitors you just run on the positive wire to the speaker in series, and that's it.

I've considered buying a whole house just so I can use an antenna. Now I get to wait 90 days, and then I can start shopping. I'll make do with it for now, I want out of this apartment worse and worse by the day. I'm going to find a way into a house even if it kills me. And then......then I'll have ISP options since I don't have to worry about apartment complex bureaucracy.

Honestly at those prices, I'd look more towards a BIC F12 or Klipsh Reference 12, both used to be sold regularly around $200 USD each for a subwoofer. For the receiver, anything Pioneer, Yamaha, Denon, Onkyo, Marantz with the outputs and inputs you need / want in the future will do the job fine. Seriously, any receiver in the last 20 years will do fine, just depends on your needs (so long as its from a good manufacturer and still works). There's other good manufacturers, those are just the most common ones that basically anything from entry level up to professional level are good enough to use. That particular Yamaha looks okay, but for an 18 year old piece of equipment, that price seems excessive. I've seen good units around $100-150 before on ebay, so I'd keep your eyes peeled there. There's also local thrift shops, craigslists, tons of ways to find a good deal. A good bet is if it has HDMI inputs, it'll likely be easier to connect in with a PC, just because digital inputs. Seriously, even 50w RMS on a receiver is going to be a LOT louder and cleaner than 100w on a Logitech setup simply due to the cleaner levels of power with less distortion. Subwoofers, take your peek at these model numbers in whatever search you want to look at. I saw both of these on ebay for $200 ish. BIC Formula F12: BIC Formula F-12 12" 475 Watt Subwoofer WWW.PARTS-EXPRESS.COM BIC Formula F-12 12" 475 Watt Subwoofer. Part Number: 303-436 by BIC America. Klipsch R-12SW: Klipsch R-12SW Reference 12-Inch Powered Subwoofer - Black - Newegg.com WWW.NEWEGG.COM Buy Klipsch R-12SW Reference 12-Inch Powered Subwoofer - Black with fast shipping and top-rated customer service. Once you know, you... Either of the above subwoofers will get lower than the Yamaha you linked, and they'll both be louder, and cleaner sounding more than likely (depends fully on your setup too ofc). Honestly both of those subwoofers are so incredibly similar, you'd be hard pressed to find a difference between the 2 unless you had them side by side and compared them. So I'd grab whichever is cheaper personally. I have been a huge fan of those BIC F12's on the budget for years though, I sure wouldn't mind owning another one or two of those in the future again. Those Klipsch copper colored cones are absolutely amazing to look at though, and that bragging factor.

Well we can toss option A out, as friends don't let friends buy white van speakers. Avoid that Hauss Media Labs scam set up, those aren't real speakers. Option B shows some potential. The Skar IDX is definitely not going to be optimal though, and I have a feeling you'll blow that one even faster with those distortion levels to be honest. Car drivers, especially ones like that Skar are going to be VERY open to distortion damage. Just a little clip, and that Skar is going to destroy itself where its glued together at. I'd instead argue to get something like this as a replacement, HOWEVER, I really don't think its worth the money to fix it when you can buy a proper powered subwoofer for this price. Up to you, but you CAN buy a full on proper powered subwoofer with an amp for this kind of money.: Dayton Audio RSS265HF-8 10" Reference Series HF Subwoofer 8 Ohm WWW.PARTS-EXPRESS.COM Dayton Audio RSS265HF-8 10" Reference HF Subwoofer 8 Ohm. Part Number: 295-442 by Dayton Audio.

QFT

Tried to warn ya mate. Time for an upgrade for sure! If you want budget, go check out Parts Express and Monoprice. I can tell you from experience, the Dayton Ultimax series subwoofers are absolutely fantastic and severely underrated, but that's going to dig you into a whole custom build kinda thing that way. For power, just get an amplifier that's bigger in capacity (RMS power), and one that matches the resistance / impedance of your speakers / subwoofer (whatever amp). Both companies do sell full and complete subwoofer setups too, AND some half decent speakers as well. Both also carry amplifiers I do believe, but PE is definitely bigger on that front. And then when listening to it loud, LISTEN very carefully to your speakers to make sure you're not over-driving them. It's pretty apparent when it happens. Keep yourself from over driving them, make sure you have plenty of CLEAN power available, and you'll stop having those problems. If you want it louder you need to add more power or more drivers or both.

Yeah, that's the kicker. To be honest I'm happier with 5Mbps consistantly regardless of data usage. Data caps, I can't live with. 50GB is like 2 movies. I'm needing this as a whole home internet solution, not just my phone device. -_- Verizon Home Internet WOULD work here if they'd just allow me the ability to try their service. Their website says I'm not qualified, but yet their coverage map says I'm fully in 5G territory. Absolutely no reason I can't get their LTE or 5G home internet services like T Mobile allowed me to try. T Mobile's doesn't even work right here, but at least they let me try it out. There's also like 3 or 4 wireless home internet options that use those point to point ethernet bridge antennas. Those also WOULD work, however my apartments do not allow me to put an antenna outside. Even just sitting in my patio, nope......not allowed to do that.

This is such a tough topic. Of course the companies know what they're doing is harming people, kids included. There's many adults too however, whom are just as addicted, and believe everything posted to facebook is real, and its ridiculous. But to say that we can sue the company for our own actions? It's not the companies fault, but I can't 100% say its the parents at fault either. Especially when we have our schools handing out tablets, laptops, and sometimes even cell phones. We're too reliant on social media and the internet in general, we've lost focus with reality as a collective whole. Nowadays its common practice to site Wikipedia blindly for example as a reference source, without ever even making note of where the sources for the Wikipedia article even came from. I've seen articles used as a reference source, that literally site a nobody "who" person on twitter as the source for that whole article! That's acceptable these days as a common source of accurate information? What happened to picking up a book, written by people that actually know whatever the subject is, and reading your information directly from the source? There's certainly places online that can fill that void, such as here for tech subjects as a great example. Collectively, we are an expert in this field. I really don't know the answer to this problem. On one hand if we start slapping at the hands of the companies like this, then the companies will just restrict the access further or whatever other measure they'll take. Then we'll have people complaining even further of censorship, which certainly is already a problem anyway. On the other hand, if we blame the parents, what are they to do when they're both at work 60 hours a week just to put a roof over their heads? I blame everyone. Everyone sucks. -_- lol. EDIT: Personally, I say stop with rediculous rules on social media sites, and maybe put a general age restriction of "adults only" if we're to have adult type situations and conversations on there (with no rules that would happen). Not this 13+ thing like Facebook has. If you have a child, stop letting them on these sites. There's no reason a child needs to be on Facebook. If they want to interact with their peers, they need to learn how to do so. Not on a screen. They can have their addictions when they're adults, same as cigarettes and beer. I'm not saying its necessarily on the companies to fix it, or just the parents. I think we as a society need to recognize an addiction when we see it, and invoke ourselves into rehab.

I'll be patiently awaiting for damric's future post of "I caught my spare parts on fire today"...... Dude, I wouldn't use a Power Man PSU in era appropriate parts that don't care as much about PSU quality. That's literally a Pentium 2 era PSU. On a Ryzen rig, mannnnn, you're just killing those mosfets and VRM's on that motherboard. Poor thing.

@tictocDude, that car doesn't look anywhere NEAR 1/4 million miles old. Absolutely love it, glad you haven't had too many issues with it either. I've always shied away from Subies for the headgasket reasons.

T Mobile is the only company outside of CenturyLink that offers a "home internet" service here at my address, yes. I never ran across Fi, I'll have to check into them, but its definitely a T Mobile tower thing. They just don't have the expansion capacity here in my area yet. Visible itself sets that cap. Yes, you can change TTL, but I couldn't figure out how to do that using my Note 9 as the hotspot for it. I had a Mofi router before with Visible plugged into it, and I was getting okay ish speeds on it after changing TTL settings. But that device wasn't working half the time either (granted, they DID warn me they couldn't guarantee Visible would work in it).

The only problem I have with it right now is I cannot port forward to get anything OUT of the network onto the internet. So some of my home server's functions are still offline. I'm working on solutions for that still, might be able to put another VPN on there somewhere that allows port forwarding or something. Not sure yet. Speed / latency isn't too much of a concern, just that it works and there's at least like 2-3 Mbps upload, which I have that easy now. I'd love to be able to do game servers again, and so far latency isn't TOO terribly bad through my VPN's. So maybe, just maybe I can do game servers again soon!

I live in an apartment on the outskirts of my town. Nope, not allowed to use an antenna. -_- Part of why I'm trying to buy a house soon, when I move I'll mount an antenna and be golden. Here's a speed update. Again, this is with a 6 Mbps / 768 kbps DSL line, 5 / 5 cell phone hotspot, and a very bad signal quality T Mobile home internet connection all bonded together before my router (with redundancy too). Speedtest was ran at my desk on my rig, at the very rear end of the network. It works! This is SOOOOOO much better than trying to pick and choose between one unreliable connection and another unreliable connection.

Alright, worked it out myself. So, Speedify is the program I've been using to bond and make my 3 ISP's redundant as well, so I have a somewhat "stable" connection lol. I have a 6Mbps DSL line with like 0 upload, Visible cell phone hotspot (5 down / 5 up), and T Mobile Home Internet that only seems to work at night, but I get anywhere from 20-80 ish Mbps down and 3-40 Mbps up depending on cell signal and load on the tower. So with Speedify I was able to bond / redundant those 3 connections on my main rig for a reliable enough connection with both download and upload. The problem, as mentioned in my OP was Windows Internet Connection Sharing. So with Speedify doing the grunt of the work there bonding, and VPN'ing and whatnot, they happen to also have another bit of software. Connectify. Connectify works just like Windows Internet Connection Sharing is supposed to, you can create a "wifi hotspot" or a wired ethernet router out of your computer basically so long as you have enough NIC's. Set Connectify up to share the Speedify connection over another LAN connection, plugged that LAN into the WAN on my main network's router, and boom. Done! Now, anytime I connect ANY internet connection to that 2u piece in my rack, any connection at all, it will automatically be bonded, VPN'd, and added for redundancy to the ISP pool in my house, and automatically shared out to the router which provides that as internet for everything! Now I just gotta get port forwarding to work, and I'm absolutely golden!

Okay so..... I have a problem. Wondering if those rural folks here might know a solution. I have 3 different isp's. They all suck. But combined, they work. I'm trying to set up a bonded VPN connection and share that bonded VPN connection out to my router and the rest of the network. I can get the bonding system to work. That's easy. But windows internet connection sharing keeps dropping the share out every single time an isp drops (which happens), or on every restart (windows updates will scare me in this instance). Does anyone know of another, more reliable way to share a virtual NIC out to the network, that'll hopefully auto resume / work correctly? I'm not opposed to running Linux on the box, however I do use windows rdp a LOT for troubleshooting my rack setup. So I'd prefer to stick with rdp for access into the system (for troubleshooting). So far I've tried server 16 but couldn't figure it out lol, windows 10 but abandoned because updates constantly broke the share, and windows 7 which started bsod'ing when I put the system back in the rack.

By the way, I did eventually figure the new rig out. Wasn't stable at 2GHz IF / RAM, so had to knock it down to 1933Mhz. Also had to RMA my memory kit, the RGB's in it were stuck on rainbow puke, so traded those in for Redline Blacks, which hopefully will come back next week sometime. Also, I have good news. I have a pre-approval letter for my new house now finally! So next week, I'm going house shopping! I still have one K8, two K7's, and a K6 to build, and one more Ryzen rig to build (need parts for that one though still). If I get too terribly bored, I might break those out again to tinker with and try to get working. But for right now, my "museum" pieces are on hold until I have a little more room. I'm currently out of storage space in my 2 BR apartment.

Not till 23 sadly. I'm on the waitlist though.

PC Sarge took my topic. Nah, seriously though, I'm glad somebody wrote it and he did a great job. I've been sooo freaking busy lately between trying to get a functional internet connection, keeping up with my kiddo's schooling online (without an internet connection), shopping for a house so I can have an internet connection........ If anyone absorbs my other topic I wouldn't feel bad at all. I needed the cash, but meh, I also need the time too. -_- Sorry E. I feel like I've let ya down.

We can put you in charge of admissions! No seriously though I do agree, quality of content and users > numbers. And E, no big deal mate, you do what you need to do to keep the lights on. I think we all at least appreciate the fact that you're honest with us in the move, and that's really all we can ask as end users.

So I too, accidentally fell for the GPU marketing campaign that is, buying a new monitor. -_- When I originally got going on my build, this is what I had: i7 3770k / RX 580 8GB 1920x1080 @ 60Hz (40" LED TV) (but I could upscale with drivers, and I did to 1440p usually) I then upgraded: Ryzen 3600 / RX 580 8GB I then realized that a 40" 1080p LED TV was horrible to actually use daily......., so I bought my new monitor. Ryzen 3600 / RX 580 8GB 5120x1440 @ 120Hz Now all of a sudden, I couldn't play my games at all hardly anymore. I had to set custom resolutions to like 2560x720, just to get some titles to even play at a movie framerate of 23 FPS. Somebody here at EHW was kind enough at this point to step in and offer me an upgrade I couldn't ignore: Ryzen 3600 / 5700XT 5120x1440 @ 120Hz still Finally I could play all of my older games beautifully! However, I was still struggling hard with newer titles like Cyberpunk and RDR2. RDR2 I was getting into, and I could only really manage to play on the Digital Foundries XBox One X equivalent settings. It worked, but man oh MAN was that game gorgeous cranked up to the max. I could do it with the 5700XT, but it was a stable 30 FPS thing. That new monitor is Freesync, so that wasn't exactly a good framerate target. Finally...... Ryzen 5800x / 6900XT 5120x1440 @ 120Hz FINALLY, I can max out most titles. Cyberpunk and any other non DX RT titles struggle with RT on, but it plays. I have no problems playing Cyberpunk 100% maxed out now, with RT even, albeit at 3840x1080 resolution, and using RSR to bring it up to native. Or I can turn on Quality FSR at native res. Either way, its a beautiful experience finally. I do wish I could do it at maximum, and a 6950XT might get me there, but I might be able to OC this thing too and get me there. So whatever. /rant Yes, monitors are an absolutely HORRIBLE way to force users to upgrade! Had I stuck with my original 1080p TV I was using, or had I bought a regular 16:9 1080p or 1440p monitor, I'd have been FINE on older cards. But nooooo, I just had to have an ultrawide with stupid high resolution. I bring this all up because 5120x1440 is dang near native 4k 3840x2160 in total pixels rendered. 4k is 8.3m pixels, my resolution is 7.3m pixels. So really close.

Yup. Both my 1100T and FX 8350 are at 1.60v for their respective 24/7 overclocks on 240mm AIO's. They both stay under 60*C load, and they're both absolutely rock solid. So I see no reason as to why I shouldn't use that kind of voltage and the overclocks I have (4.2GHz on the 1100T and 4.8GHz on the 8 core). On the flip side, I've killed SEVERAL 2500k's, 2600k's, 2700k's, 3770k's at "safe" voltages due to degradation. Usually for me anyway, it was IMC failure.

Yawn. Not interested in NBC making games anymore than EA. I hope they realize that monopolies aren't a good thing. But why not? NBC, Comcast and Disney already own like 99% of traditional media already. Maybe this will pave the way for new game makers? Or maybe games will die a slow micro transactional death. Who knows.

What did trump say that was untrue though? You were asked that earlier and never responded. You mentioned a big lie, but then skipped over when I explained how the big lie IS the lie itself after quoting my own sources at me, not understanding the context. And what's wrong with that? I say go for it and start suing people for speech and see how that goes. I'd laugh my butt off if that happened. Twitter shouldn't be responsible. Again, YOU are responsible for determining your own sources as true or not. Everyone, EVERYONE should be free to speak their opinion. Period. Censor certain things, sure like swears or nasty names. But opinions? Really? You're also skirting around my point that Twitter is no longer private when it's your only way of contacting local representatives. That makes it public domain, period. If they want to keep their way of business, then our representatives SHOULD move away to a platform that doesn't do that.