pio

Somebody much smarter than I will have to answer that one. Modern tech is definitely different than what I'm used to, and probably you as well to be honest. I noticed on my 5800x, instability wasn't crashing. Nope, not once. But it does result in lower bench scores, and lower framerates in games. I think there's active error correction going on these days to prevent crashing entirely. But I could be wrong.

When the AMD Driver hangs / crashes, you end up with low speed fans and throttling high temps. I've seen this happen on my RX 580's, on my 5700XT, and on my 6900XT. If your driver is crashing, there's something wrong. You're either unstable where you're at, or the card is borked in some way and needs to be RMA'd. It's also possible that its just simply boosting too high to be stable while folding too. You might need to turn it down to say ~90% of its "stock" boost clocks instead of letting it go full ham. Don't forget, Nvidia and AMD both do actively try to stop people from distributing computing projects (hence the hashrate limiter on 3000 series Nvidia). AMD does it their own way, by making certain loads unstable but yet gaming you're perfectly fine. Take my 6900XT as an example. I can game on it all night overclocked. I turn on F@H or mining on it, and I absolutely HAVE to turn it down a notch otherwise my drivers crash just like yours.

I use the "manual" fan control in the AMD driver suite. It ONLY fails to work on me if my card has crashed for whatever reason (usually the driver that crashes actually). A reboot and resetting the fan controls fixes it for me. During mining or folding, I haven't had any problems using the fan controls. If yours KEEPS resetting on you, you've got an unstable card and its time to RMA it would be my opinion. AMD drivers have come a long, long, LONG way since the 7950.

I JUST bought my 6900XT.

No I still have everything left at defaults. Also, I lost my fast internet recently and now only have 10 down / 0.5 up. So not hosting ANYTHING these days.

Don't mind me, just bumping the thread. Don't forget to fold everybody, our team numbers are coming down. I know its getting warmer outside......but points!

You know how I roll mate. By all means, fix it. It'd be fun and a learning opportunity. I'm just saying, that's not going to fix the source of the problem here, and that's the high distortion levels and lower (relative) power levels. I measured I think it was around 180w RMS to my 6.5" subwoofer, which only actually takes about 50w. Tuned down to 50w, its clean as can be and I can crank it as loud as I want till the sub itself starts popping because I have 180w available on tap for it. The same thing holds true for bigger / louder setups too. If you have a 500w subwoofer, it's better to have 1000w on tap for it and run your amp cleaner at 500w, than it would be to push a 500w amp to its max all day. Think of amplifiers like a computer PSU. Quality AND overhead > big numbers. Wattage is wattage, so yes, think of an amp like a PC PSU. You're currently running a Raidmax PSU to your sub, in that sense.

It was a 6.5" Tang Band in there originally, so that's what I'd go with. You smoked it from the THD at 10% with those Logitech amps. I'll say it again, I would NOT recommend fixing it as its just not worth it. If you really really want to though, Tang Band makes some killer 6.5" subs, go check out Parts Express. If you're wanting loud, and bass, and not to kill equipment you'll need a few things. You'll need more power available than the speakers can handle. You'll need less distortion, seriously the less the better (which is why overpowering is a good thing, it keeps it cleaner). And bass specifically, you need moving mass. The more air you can move either from cabinet folds, bigger driver, or just simply more power to the driver, the more bass you'll have.

Oh I can agree with both of your posts there. As I said originally, that article was as of Sept. 2020, so of course things have changed a little bit since then. Youtube is Google, Netflix is owned by Blackrock if I searched that correctly. It's not good news for actual creative people though, nor is it good news for consumers of media either. But, sadly, its been a problem for many many MANY years now. One of those things where, yeah its a problem, but what can we really even do about it kind of thing.

As of September of 2020, there were 6. 6 corporations that own ALL media in the US. There's a lot less "major" corporations involved than you think. Because things like CBS, NBC, Nickelodeon, etc, they're all owned by somebody else already anyway. Note, I didn't bother reading this article, nor am I linking it for the article itself. The graphics are enough, you can connect the dots from there through your own research if the article isn't sufficient. If you follow who actually owns your favorite media company, chances are its one of these 6. These 6 corporations control 90% of the media outlets in America. The illusion of choice and objectivity | Tech News | Startups News TECHSTARTUPS.COM

I'll admit I didn't read your post entirely, but yes.....I've been complaining of big businesses since ehhhhhhhh 2007 or so?

Like, this is so exciting finding this stuff lol. This means I have ALL of the software here to make a Win98 or 95, or even a DOS rig, and have it fully functional. Including Winamp for music (which I still use mp3's today). And tons of games that'll work.

You can bet on it once I get my K6 rig running properly, I'm going to try..... I actually WANT to create a dial up network system between a buddy of mine and me to play old games over dial up LAN.

I'm curious if my "People PC Online" disc would still work though. I have a home phone line. People PC Online is just old version of "Earthlink" which is still active today.

Did you save your 20 year old coasters? Because I didn't! C'mon, we all knew AOL was trash even back then in the 1990's. I'm surprised I didn't have a Netzero CD in there though. Probably one of the few missing discs, I noticed there was blank areas that probably weren't blank originally.

Updated OP with the listing. Here it is here too, in case anyone doesn't feel like scrolling because its a big list......

I'll have to test that soon, I found Midtown Madness Chicago. I'll have to write a list of all of these down tomorrow lol.

You guys will NEVER guess what I found tonight helping an old friend. I'll give you a hint, I'll be uploading them all to the internet archives hopefully in the next few weeks. I now have a flat out NEED to build a retro rig that can read CD's because a low speed drive is going to be imperative, like seriously I'll want to try to locate like a 1x or 2x CD reader if I can from the early 90's, just so I can rip all of these gently. I FOUND MY OLD ABSOLUTELY FULL CD WALLET OF OLD CD SOFTWARE!!!! Yes, some of them are copies, but 99.9% of it was all legitimately bought software of mine from back in Windows 98 till early EARLY first edition Windows XP. I just thought it was absolutely awesome and had to share. Software and Games list in this wallet:

I'll be the odd man out here and say it depends on which GPU. If you're talking about a low or low-midrange RX 7000 series GPU, then yes your 3400G will likely hold up just fine. If you're talking about an actual midrange "7600" series or higher GPU, then no the 3400G probably will not work too well for you as it'll hold back the GPU. I'd say that CPU would likely be just fine with something along the lines of an RX 6500 or 6600XT, which those are available now. Maybe an RX 6700XT even might play without too much bottleneck. Anything faster, no you'll want a better CPU than the 3400g.

Honestly, I'm certainly not the person to help at this point. I just plugged all my stuff in together, and tweaked it so it worked lol. I was going off how my Ryzen 3600 worked when tweaking this one, and I'm pretty sure that was wrong. Mine's kind of working now, so I'll leave it be. Roughly 4.5GHz all core now under load, still seeing 4.9 single at times. 1900 IF / RAM clocks for safety, apparently 2GHz is tough to get still. I think I'm at -725mv for offset. I'm only just matching what the thing did all auto, but trying to keep it from overheating and throttling. But hey....... @ENTERPRISE, I did say I would find a home for this EKWB I won, and the PSU. Well.....I made them homes.

Updated BIOS yesterday. Updated chipset drivers too. My USB hub also failed coincidentally, so that could've been causing the freezing originally too. Was playing tonight just fine finally. Ended up using all auto PBO, and -725mv. Seemed I was undervolting a tad too much before. Playing at 5120x1440 / 120Hz (or trying to). Finally was getting around 60+ FPS tonight at maxed settings.

I actually AM having some issues, but I cannot say for sure as of yet if its a voltage / setting problem or something else. It feels absolutely fantastic and fine to just sit down and use, but playing a game on it and it falls on its face. I was having some serious stutter problems last night playing RDR2, then all of a sudden my USB hub failed. Then the stutters became freezing. My ISP was dropping too. Just ugh. Started off trying to play and I was getting about 45 FPS when it was working.....and I kind of feel like that's a little low for this setup. My problems are one of 3 things or a combination of all 3. The settings I put to it last night above (including voltage), the junk 2 HDD's I put in there to use temporarily because I had nothing else left, or my incredibly slow ISP having problems because the machine has been syncing for 3 days now since I built it lol. Honestly I'm not really sure what the problem was just yet.

I dunno. It was on whatever BIOS it shipped with originally. Was having problems with it, and tried updating BIOS last night, so its now on the latest. Still having issues, so its either something I set wrong, the junk HDD's I put in there to use temporarily, or my ISP causing the issues. Or a mixture of all 3. This rig might go on the shelf and I might go back to my 3600 / 5700XT rig as a daily until I get this thing dialed in better. I know these HDD's are bad, but I don't recall them actually ever causing actual problems before. There's currently too many variables and unknowns in this particular new system for me to say its rock solid yet.

So after scoring a 6900XT for what I thought was a steal on ebay, open box......I kinda went on a splurge with my taxes. Meet the latest rig of the fleet, "AMDwheee". Specs: Ryzen 5800x at 4.8GHz all core / 5050MHz single PBO, 1.20v Infinity Fabric @ 2GHz, SoC volt 1.15v 32GB Mushkin Lumina DDR4-4000 @ 2GHz, 18-22-22-22-42-1T, 1.25v Asus B550 Rog Strix B550 ITX MSI RX 6900XT Trio X Seasonic Focus GX 1000w Phanteks Eclipse P200A case EKWB Basic 240mm AIO Silicon Power 512GB NVME (temp) WD Black 2.5" 500GB laptop HDD RAID0 (temp)

I actually found a multitude of potentially issues. First of all, the mounting. I double and triple checked with the manual both in paper and online. I had it on there correctly. I pulled it apart, and the paste was spread over where the dies and things should be very well I thought (according to pictures I could find). There was one corner that somehow didn't get spread onto at all, seems either a mis-pressured mount or an IHS that's not flat. I didn't bother taking a picture because honestly, it really wasn't that bad. I did go ahead and remount with 2 lines going parallel with the retention mechanism on the CPU (up and down on the "sides" if you were looking at the CPU with the writing facing up). My prior TIM job was a straight line, basically crossing out the Ryzen name on it (dead center). This did drop my temperatures down some a little bit, it took longer to hit 90*C under load. It still did though. Next thing I tried, settings. I noticed BIOS was setting 1.44v stock. Figured I'd give that a tune down. I settled at -125mv, which gives it around 1.20v under load. I enabled manual PBO enabled, with the +200. Turned up TDP and current limits to 130%. Set the RAM to proper 2000MHz and timings. Set IF clock to 2000. SoC voltage to 1.15v. RAM voltage to I think it was 1.25v. And enabled SoC "overclocking" mode. Next startup with these settings, I was no longer seeing 4.5GHz boost and 90*C within a minute temperatures. Nope, I was seeing 4.80GHz all core load, 5050MHz single core. Temperatures, we'll get to in the next paragraph. AIDA64 readings is the final thing I noticed. So, with my Ryzen 3600 build, it was my first time ever going Ryzen. I naturally grabbed the hottest temp reading for CPU and that's what I was going off of (CPU Diode). So that's also what I assumed I needed to use on the 5800x. Turns out, there's 3 CPU temperatures. There's "CPU temp" which is apparently what the BIOS uses and what the fan curves are set off of. With the new settings, I'm hitting 65*C here. "CPU Diode" is hitting 77*C now instead of immediately 90*C. "CPU Package" is hitting 76*C now instead of immediately 90*C. So here's what I got the last 4 hours: 4.80GHz all core boost (up to 5050 single) 1.20v 122w pull 65*C CPU temp 77*C CPU Diode temp 76*C CPU Package temp 2000 IF Clock / 2000 RAM at 18-22-22-22-42-1T Before: 4.50GHz all core boost (up to 4.70 single) 1.44v 164w pull ?*C CPU Temp 90*C throttle CPU Diode temp 90*C throttle CPU Package temp 1000 IF Clock / 2000 RAM at 18-22-22-22-42-1T It seems to be running MUCH better now with some manual tweaking and a slightly better TIM job.