pio

It's finally alive! My first (again) Socket 939 rig! Attempting to install Windows 10 to it right now, will settle for 7 if it doesn't work. I definitely still need the A8N SLI Premium, the base model has no chipset controls hardly at all, and very little overclocking options. I'll see what I can do with it though.

Bump! I wanna play too if you guys are still playing Minecraft somewhere. I'm using Java, but I'll buy Bedrock if that's where the server is.

Power button, power LED, reset button, and HDD LED are all connected now. Front USB's and audio are re-installed on the case again. Tomorrow night (hopefully), I'll be swapping boards out on the 939 rig and with any luck......finally having it working! Of course, I'm not an expert at soldering by ANY stretch of the imagination.....but they work.

As a fellow SSD lover here, personally I noticed a pretty noticeable difference going between various SSD's, 2.5" and NVME. And even from one NVME to a faster NVME I noticed a difference too. Outside of benchmarks, and IMMEDIATELY using 2 different drives, you probably won't notice a difference. But my rig sure feels a lot snappier with this Gen 3 NVME I have now over the older NVME I had before. I can only imagine that a Gen 4 would feel even faster. My (current) drives for comparison would be a Crucial BX500 1-2TB (I have many of both), RAID0 BX500's (up to 4), Silicon Power 1TB NVME rated at like 1800MB/s reads (forget model), and now my Mushkin Pilot-E 1TB NVME rated at something like 3600MB/s reads I think. And yes, my fastest NVME is absolutely noticeable to ME in a few select environments, and I'd imagine an even faster NVME would still be noticeably faster yet. Everyday usage it feels snappier too. But....it all depends on your use too. Really, so long as you're avoiding mechanical drives as best you can for OS and game storage, I doubt you'll have a "bad" time even with an older NVME. As always, just grab the fastest drive with good warranty that your budget allows you to, and quit worrying about it. Gen 3 or Gen 4, either will be very fast and snappy. And outside of a very select few gaming titles and overall "snappiness" of the system, you absolutely will not notice a difference even from a regular 2.5" SSD.

It's not Socket A, no. But it'd be an awfully close match to my Phenom + 6970 build........ To be fair, LGA 775 was a huge turning point for Intel anyway, and it really was a pretty neat way to address AMD. It's probably on a lot of people's favorite list, and for good reason. I really enjoyed the ones I played with. Had I not picked all AMD just to make things easy on myself, I wouldn't mind another Socket T build. I've still got one in storage with a BSEL modded Q9550 and GTX 750Ti in it, but I'm pretty sure its in storage for some reason or another.

Alright, fresh from customs.....Asus A8N-SLI motherboard just arrived today from Finland. It has absolutely PERFECT caps on it. I'd snap pictures but its actually sealed in the anti-static bag. Going to throw that in the 939 build here in the next few days, and I "should" be able to finish it now, granted I have the time to solder and do a whole mobo swap yet again. The A8N32-SLI Deluxe I have I'll need to inspect the caps on (doesn't work for "this build" anyway). And the A8N-SLI Premium I had in there, is most definitely getting sent out for caps. Somebody in this thread already knows about that though..... I'm not sure if I'm ever going to find the time to do the bench list I was hoping. I started a few videos on the FX build and kind of lost interest lol. It's more fun building them than it is benching them for me. Either way, haven't stopped....just slowed down a little. Oh, some Socket A parts are starting to arrive too now that I ordered. I have 4 or 5 64GB HP SSD's coming, some IDE to SATA adapters, and I think a couple more coolers? I dunno, don't you hate it when you shop intoxicated?

EDIT: Sometime in the middle of the night last night, literally less than 12 hours after I put this on......some idiot decided they wanted it. Now there's a giant ding in my tailgate and all the damn bolts are stripped. I'm absolutely livid. It's a piece of freaking metal that was bolted to the car, like who the...........nevermind. I removed it tonight, its now stored in my closet till I can freaking move. -_- ----------------------------------------------------------------- Little update on my Jeep for you guys, since I gave up long ago on build logs for cars....... This is all going to be sandblasted and powder coated black next spring (with all 5 of the wheels). Electrical tape is all I could find to protect the paint on the Jeep itself, but it works for now. Today, we finished fabbing up the brackets to mount the custom ladder on it!

Welcome!

What I did in a similar situation, I just put the new router's IP address (OPNsense) into the DMZ on the gateway. You're not using the router on the ISP's gateway anyway, so that'll just bypass your ISP firewall entirely. Thus, allowing OPNsense full access naked to the internet. However you're then entirely reliant on the firewall in OPNsense. Which....is kind of the point to begin with if you didn't have a router from the ISP. I could be wrong, but it does work.

As I said earlier too though, the firewall options shouldn't be too terribly difficult to figure out with a simple "how to port forward" search online for a guide. If you're trying to go through a VPN or use DNS or something you might have a more difficult time like I am. But your average network use, it should be pretty straightforward with a guide.

I've found the pfsense firewall to be pretty robust out of the box, and a little complicated to get working when trying to allow stuff out. If you're decent with firewalls it's probably a no brainer. Again though too, mine is setup differently as I have 2 separate lan's with one going through a VPN. I also use dns. So my stuff is all kind of messed up right now and I gave up lol. A simple setup like you're trying with yours E, it should be as simple as googling "port forward on opnsense" and following a guide. Again out of the box, it appears pretty robust to me. But I'm also not a network guru either, I just play around with stuff. EDIT: You could also change the subnet on your ISP's router too instead. If your devices are used to the default say 192.168.1.x address space, you could change your ISP router to 192.168.0.x, and leave the 192.168.1.x to OPNsense instead of changing OPNsense to something different.

Since this is the team page, guess I'll post it here...... Been having power issues today off and on. I'm hoping power might be stable now finally, but we'll see. As such, my RX 580 probably hasn't been fully up and folding all day today. It'll be back to 24/7 duty as soon as the power company gets their stuff figured out.

I thought you were contemplating on building a pfsense box (or similar)? I've learned it REALLY depends on your networking needs. Personally, my network has my ISP coming in, into an OPNsense box, into a 48 port switch, into 2 seperate wifi AP's (old routers / one skipping the switch). In my personal network uses, I'd attack my 48 port switch first, since its the biggest bottleneck in my network being its 10/100/1000. My OPNsense box is fine with 10/100 NIC's since my ISP is only 100 anyway. My wireless AP's are fine on AC1750 speeds. But throughput to my NAS (connected to the switch) is definitely a slowdown at 1000Mbps when I have more than one device trying to use it. If you're going for 10GBe speeds at your base, I'd start there. If you have any sort of NAS attached, I'd address that + what its plugged into. You can always add AP's in anytime, don't even have to use a consumer router to do it either. And depending on your ISP, the "router" doesn't need to have 10GBe unless your ISP is that fast. I'd save the speed for the local LAN.

As someone who had a lowered car previously (and probably will again one day), I understand and sympathize with your frustrations. Let me explain. My light bar is for "off road use only". However, I do have a LOT of country roads here, and yes....I DO use it every once in a while when its needed. In town driving, its off 100% of the time. Busy roads, off. Empty country roads with just me driving on it.......who cares? Just the other day, I avoided hitting a coyote because the light bar was on and I saw it. My headlights only, I would not have seen it at all and I'd have smooshed it because it came from the side of the road and crossed right in front of me right as I was getting close to it going "50mph". The fog lights probably would bother you, and yes those ARE used daily. I can understand that complaint since those are actually used. Honestly, not my problem when I see lowered Hondas with retina burning blue HID's in their reflector housings everyday. They're pointed below my low beams, they're just extra wide so I can see the sides of the road. That'd be the worst offense you'd see coming at me head on would be my fog lights. However adding LED's so I can have amber color for the weather was all I did to those. (Find me a pair of good halogen amber PSW24X bulbs and we'll talk about swapping). My headlights are stock halogens. Other than bulbs, the fogs are stock (stock color and pointing though). The lightbar as far as any other drivers are concerned is off road only. I know, it LOOKS very offensive on your eyes with everything on. But I promise, its not THAT blinding coming at me head on. There's a Jeep rolling around here with 6000k HID's in his 8" round reflector housings, he's got 6000k colored lights all over the front, and he drives regularly with all of that nonsense on WITH his lightbar. I promise you, I'm not THAT guy. I do try to take other drivers into consideration.

Rotated the tires today, and installed the new fog light bulbs. WOW what a difference a good bulb makes, holy wow. These new fog lights are no joke, they're just as good or better than my low beams! Just the amber fogs: Amber fogs + low beams: Amber fogs + low beams + my lightbar: And just for giggles, let's see how blinding I am for oncoming traffic.......

I just don't see mining being eradicated anytime soon personally. There's too many bigger firms / warehouses / etc that are mining. So what if ETH goes POS and you can't mine it anymore? There's thousands of other coins that the GPU's can mine for. I just have a hard time imagining ALL the cash people have spent on GPU's and it being for absolutely nothing. I mean Ravencoin is even still profitable. Heck even ETC is profitable. Just not AS profitable as ETH is at the current time. I think once ETH goes POS, we'll see the GPU farms switch to a different coin. My own personal speculation on that subject anyway. Still debating on buying cards again to do it myself actually lol.

Never heard of Adata? Man, I had some Adata XPG (I think they were) DDR400 sticks back in the day that did like DDR600 speeds. Adata's fine as a brand and they've been around forever, what matters is the IC's on the sticks. I don't know DDR5 at all, so can't really comment, but the brand itself is fine. Those speeds seem okay for early DDR5. I'd rock those sticks for a while no problem.

Don't say that, SHIB has treated me pretty well the last few months. -_- Gonna keep HODL'ing it, I only put a little in and it was already crypto anyway. Was hoping it'd hit a penny, if it did I could retire off it entirely at 35 lol. Big dreams.

This is absolutely a company I could get behind as well. Glad to have the forum sponsoring these guys and their endeavor. I'd say welcome, but I have a feeling these guys aren't strangers......

So I did a thing today to my Jeepish thing. Wired up my light bar! No, I'm not "that" jerk.....I don't drive on the streets with it on. Lots of rural areas around here though where its safe to use it. Did try it out on a road tonight (no traffic), and WOW what a difference it makes. Yes, I have replacement fog bulbs coming. Those were cheap Alla "amber" LED's that didn't last a year. Trying switchback bulbs this time, hoping for $50 they last a little longer. Really needing more of an amber color. Kinda need that more out of the light bar too, but whatever. I'll address that with the bumper later.

I know it sounds absolutely silly asking this on a tech forum......BUUTTT..... Have you checked Windows power settings? What about any drivers that might control power? I think I've seen some options in CCC regarding power on my Ryzen APU laptop. Since the button seems to work sometimes and not others, and it works after a CMOS reset but stops working, its sounding to me like a driver or software "bug" that's getting turned back on once it boots. And sometimes, the simplest answers can be overlooked.

Hey, somebody has to keep the $till Legendary traditions alive. I WILL prove that Crysis can be ran on a P2 dangit!!! Anyhooooooo.......... ------------------------------------------------ Huge thank you again goes out to @Diffident. Not only did he send that gorgeous Socket A motherboard my way, I found a Thermaltake Volcano 7 in the mail today! Who told you that's what I asked Santa for? Seriously, its a gorgeous cooler, and its EXACTLY what I wanted for the Socket A builds. So thank you very very much! I shall include your name in credits when they're completed too.

You're going to goad me into DICE or LN2 on the Socket A and 939's aren't you? Welcome bro. I'll happily run any of these rigs (once they're all functional) for any bench off you want to try later on.

Huge thank you and shoutout to @Diffident! Shipped me a Socket A motherboard and CPU, and even a stick of RAM! It arrived today, and I do believe this motherboard is going to make it into my T-Bird Athlon build. It's most definitely in need of recapping though, so I'll have to address that first. The case still needs repaired on that build too anyway, got the crack glued, but it still looks ugly. But this motherboard is like a million times nicer than the junk ECS board I bought just because it had flat caps on it. So stay tuned for that build too. Been recording a little bit here and there at night while kiddo is sleeping. I dunno why I decided to do this lol, this is a LOT of labor just to benchmark old rigs and see how they do. BUT.....figured some of you might wanna see, so I guess I'll keep trudging on. Once I get a rig fully benched and recorded, its going to be a HUGE post per rig. So stay tuned, might still be a few weeks till I get the first one done and videos edited. Just wow, didn't realize how much effort and labor was going to be involved with building 7 or 8 old rigs, jeez. -_-

Now install Plex media server on there, and you can share those recordings on every device in your house. You can also use your tuner card as a live TV tuner for any device in the house using Plex as well. If you're happy with the build, that's what matters anyway. Those DIYPC cheapie cases aren't actually all that bad, I've got a few of them. Really thin, but if you treat your rig like an adult does, it'll be fine. Great component choice, tad overkill on PSU but whatever. A 3200G should do solidly on the TV with light gaming. How are you liking the tuner card? Been thinking of getting one, but there's only like 3 or 4 local channels I'd pick up anyway.